MR with clash.

[grayven]

Well I thought I would post this here as well as over at JSS and FX-Sabers.

This is still a work in progress, when it is done I will post a full tutorial for all.
yes the board is resting itself on this vid, that has been corrected.
enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSCf5BXSOJc
look for more to come.

[swear000]

now thats a cool idea. gives added functionality to an otherwise normal sensor. ingenious!

[Mandalorian]

Very cool. I hope you get the tutorial done soon cause that would be really helpful.

[Er Dan Gill]

MORE. Need more info. That is way cool Graven. I wonder if you could you use a rumble motor instead?

[Novastar]

More is coming, Er Dan...

This is for a project that Grayven and I are doing. Mainly, it has to do with the "Seven Six-Sixteens" as I'm calling them--the 7 MR 616s that I want to get specially "pimped out" for BOP III or whatever else (such as demos, b-day parties, LED saber classes, etc.).

Also, I would prefer to say that a motor could be placed in ADDITION to (not so much in lieu of) the flash here. In other words, you could indeed add a small motor that would spin from the current.

For example, the motors in my Flange III sabers pulse and "ebb and flow" with the current from the Crystal Focus LED leads. In other words--the motor behaves exactly as does the main LED.

You can think of a motor like any other device getting current--like an indicator LED. Feed it the right amount at the right time for your favorite purpose... it's no more difficult than wiring up a Luxeon III, a "small" low-current LED... or even a POT or speaker.

[Angelus Lupus]

Seeing as I've got 1 616 board and two more coming, I'm certainly interested in this.

[Er Dan Gill]

I'm very much interested in this since all my sabers have MR boards in them. An upgrade like this would make it that much sweeter.

[vadeblade]

Wow! This solves my problem with what to do with the feedback motor i installed in my hilt. I did not think it was great to have the hilt shaking all the time. I finally got a hold of a 616, but I am having too much fun with the lightsaber to gut it for the board. I am planing to buy another 616.

Mind if I take stab at what it is you guys are doing?

Are you taking the signal from the clash sensor to switch on a MOSFET?
Or is it more simple, like the LED is wired in series to the clash sensor?

looking forward to the tutorial.

[psab keel]

The only thing is in the video when it clashes it sounds like only one sound is coming out, and it sounds like the power up sound, not one of the clashing sounds.

[Novastar]

You're absolutely right, Psab... the board was essentially "cycling" when the flash would get triggered--I mentioned this to Grayven a few days ago when he posted...

It's a work in progress, and Grayven JUST started, so... there's much to be worked out. In the end... you never know--it may be more trouble than it is "worth" (to some) in order to set up what we hope to do. In other words, it may cost like an extra $15 to $50 for parts and extra time or whatever. We're not "ferr surrre" yet, heheh. :D

BUT... that being said--I'll be visiting Grayven (he's about 2.5 hours away) this evening. We'll toss around ideas and see what's to do.

There's more to it also, as I'll be picking up a few sabers to bring back to some parents/families who want a saber for their child for Xmas/holidays! :)

[Marsupial]

if it is power cycling, maybe the LED sucks in too much juice, and the board simply brown-out or black-out.

Give it a try with a lower LED, just for testing sake?

[grayven]

Yep, I came to the same conclusion. I have since rectified it and well see what Nova Says about it tonight.

[psab keel]

Hey guys,

I hope I didn't come across as critical. (You all know I am all for innovation- that's how we get all these cool upgrades and advances in the technology). Keep up the great work. I have an MR board that will be going into a saber so if this works out, I might have a really cool feature to put into this next saber of mine.

Thanks, Psab

[grayven]

Hey guys,

I hope I didn't come across as critical. (You all know I am all for innovation- that's how we get all these cool upgrades and advances in the technology). Keep up the great work. I have an MR board that will be going into a saber so if this works out, I might have a really cool feature to put into this next saber of mine.

Thanks, Psab

Not at all. I would much rather find a problem now than be blinded and look like a schmuck at the end.
But yes Nova brought that to my attention the same night I posted the vid. It has since been resolved. All clash sounds now work with no resting. The flash is not as long but still noticeable. If need be i could increase this with the use of a cap, but I don't think it needs to be. We'll see what Nova say when he sees it tonight. It's still a sweet effect. It will be cheaper to use on a standard MR board verses the 616 only because you will be able to almost fully power the main blade LED right from the board. On the 616 you will need to something else to fully power the main blade LED.

[Mandalorian]

I'm really looking forward to this. Any idea when a tutorial might be up? I'm currently converting some MR's and this would be great.

[psab keel]

Thanks Grayven,

Keep us posted on your progress!

[Novastar]

Psab... FUHGEDDDABOUDDID!!! ;) That was not critical. And who cares, we NEED input or we won't be challenged and "get better". This is actually why I got involved with all of this in the FIRST place...

BOP I was a bloody CHALLENGE! It seems like kid n' play *NOW*, but... back then, it posed problems at every turn, and solutions weren't just like "oh, let's go look up what to do". We had to figure it out!

BOP II was the same only 4x "worse" with more challenges. I loved it while hating it... it pushed the limits (I think).

Doing 36mm speakers and the really cool resonance in Flange III and the electronics in general... was a GIANT thing for ME--no soldering/EE experience until late 2006, so... boy was THAT harrowing. It was like running blindfolded through a maze of chasms, hahahah.

So, now I had spoken with Don (Do-Clo) and was bouncing these ideas off of Grayven for the "Seven Six-Sixteens", and... here we are now. HUGE SHOUT OUT TO DON HERE... without him--this solution would not be possible (at least not coming from me and Gravy). Seriously--without his knowledge, suggestions and experience... this whole dang opry wouldn't have happened, heheh So tell him thanks or die, will ya! :D

ANYHOW... :D I got some video tonight of Grayven's updated/"repaired" go of the MR Flash on Clash. Now remember, I have seen it in person now... and... me LIKES this. Really... it's a very good effect in my opinion--better than I expected!!! And it's not like it takes a ton of wiring expertise nor large amounts of space, nor does it really drive the cost into the stratosphere. Mad props to Grayven for going through the efforts and having the cahones to do it...

The video may or may not "really show it well". I don't have an HD cam, and you have to understand:

* Rebel LED (three up: EDIT--it's RGW, I made a mistake originally posting here that it was two blue, one white I believe)
* The blue is already ON, the red was off
* The white flashes when the shock sensor is tripped/triggered

This is significantly different from the "normal" collision flickers we're used to from both CF and US (and even Corbin boards) because of three major reasons:

* Three LEDs in there, and... as I said--two are already "on"!!!
* No light "flickers DOWNWARD/LOWER"... it simply ADDS LIGHT!! :D
* Later on... when we're using two of the LEDs for the "main" blade on the Rebel... A single white LED expected to "overpower" TWO blue LEDs (of similar voltage, type, current, color, etc.)... is just ridiculous

Now... someone might suggest: "Why don't you use a single LED to drive the main blade... and the TWO for the clash"? Well... that could probably happen. But:

* Main blade gets to be a lot brighter if 2 LEDs are "constantly on" (duh)
* It's still early in the game... we might just do that as a test...
* Well... if you'd LIKE to get a "special color" by mixing two colors for your main blade... well... that isn't going to be possible with this method
* I personally like the idea of "stepping it up" and starting to use TWO LEDs from the Rebel to give an extra amount of brightness.

So hmm, that seems to cover quite a bit for now... I'll post the video once I DL into my machine, edit it up, UL it to Y-Tube and go from there.

Be patient though--I have all these bloody b-day party videos to add!! I'm behind by like three parties. UGH it's sooo much footage to sift & wade through, DEEZ driving meez NUTZ! :D

[grayven]

Slight correction Novastar.
The Xwing LED I was using was a red, blue, and white. I was only using two of the LED for the test, Blue for the main blade and white for the clash.

[Novastar]

To quote Carl Lewis: "Uh-Oh..." :!:

heheheheh! D'oh... sorry for that!! I will edit that post for posterity and others who may read later on... :D

[vadeblade]

Hi,
Thank you Grayven, Do-Clo, and Novastar for the great work you are doing.

Is there ETA for the tutorial on this? i figure i am a couple of weeks away from needing to salvage the board off my joe-jedi saber - i've managed to crack the blade already after a week of ownership ;).

I plan to place an order for a custom 3-up Rebel by the end of the week and the color combo i choose is somewhat dependant on knowing how this is done (my hilt is getting kinda full).

Cheers,
V

[Novastar]

The joe-jedi (616) blades *DO* seem pretty weenie.

The ETA for this whole "MR + clash on flash + lockup" is going to have to get defined in old Duke Nukem terms which would be:

"Comin'... ... when it's ready." :)

;)

[sithlordfaust]

The joe-jedi (616) blades *DO* seem pretty weenie.

The ETA for this whole "MR + clash on flash + lockup" is going to have to get defined in old Duke Nukem terms which would be:

"Comin'... ... when it's ready." :)

;)

don't say that! in duke nukem terms that could be construed as vaporware

[Novastar]

//begin derailment

hahahha... SOMEone knows their "Duke" history, hahhahah. Boy... I wasn't expecting THAT.

Yup... http://www.3drealms.com/duke4/

So... I musts amends mys comments to:

"The release date of this clash flash with MR thing is "When it's done". Anything else, and we mean anything else is someone's speculation. There is no date. We don't know any date. If you have a friend who claims they have "inside info", or there's some clash flash with MR thing news site, or some saber parts store online which claims they know - they do not. They are making it up. There is no date. Period."

HAHAHHAHAHAHAHAH. That all being "cut & pasted"... Duke Nukem Forever may have been TAKING "forever"... but... I still wanna get it.

They just better still have Jon Saint John as the voice of D. Nukem.

//end derailment

[ARKM]

Where does one get a red/blue/white Luxeon Rebel? I can only find them in RGB or white only. Did grayven modify a Rebel RGB into an RBW?

[Novastar]

Ah! So you are the gent who took over RLSA? Rock on, and welcome.

Let's see... Xwingband would be your man for this sort of thing (unless you wanted to try doing it yourself, which would be a PITA). Check with him here on TCSS... he has offered to make them for people as a service I believe.

Xwing has helped a LARGE amount over the years with TCSS, so... I don't think directing you to him for things like Rebels is something Tim would find "bad" here on the boards.

[ARKM]

Thank you, thank you.

[grayven]

This got put on temp hold. It works, I just want to do it into a conversion first. With that being said, the LED that I was doing the testing with was actually for another project that has to get finished. I have a RRW, BBW and a GGW coming when they get put together by Xwing. When I get them I'm planning on doing this conversion on a Anakin ROTS with the BBW, A Luke ROTJ with the GGW and a Vader ANH with the RRW.
When I do those I will post for all to see and we will go from there. I might even sell them after I'm done. Not the clash Flash kits but the sabers I use to do the conversions.

[Novastar]

Hey! Just don't sell the ones for BOP III, ya yutz! :D heheheh. JK.

Oh and in case anyone cares, I'm gonna TRY learning more about Rebels (by getting some from X or whatever???) and see about at LEAST trying them in the Flange III sabers so that Gravy and I can make more headway on the project in a better fashion.

I mean--myself... I don't know much about electronics. Sure, sure... NEW people think I magically do... but if you're new and reading: I don't. Not in comparison to folks like Gravy or Jon or X or Erv or Edwin.

So... it's always an education working on any of these things, believe you me.

God knows... I must be INSANE to be doing all this on the sidelines when I SHOULD be focusing on BOP III... god help THAT project. LOL

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

I've been waiting for Duke Nukem 4[ever] since I saw an article about it in...1997...???

I now believe that it will arrive in 2012 and that its actual availability will collapse the Cosmological Constant and usher in the End Of Time as forecast by the Aztec Calendar...lol

And shortly before that pigs will levitate and EvilBay will stop VEROing innocent sabersmiths.

[cannibal869]

wow, it's been quiet on this thread...

I've tried a little bit of experimentation on my own while I've been waiting and I have to say that I've been able to get flash on clash working on an MR board, but it ain't bright and it won't work on an RGB rebel (i.e. using the red and blue to make purple and trying to get the green to color blend into a white)... maybe one of Xwing's custom ones will work where you have a white rebel as the clash, but the color blending thing to get a merged white just doesn't work from what I can tell. And the clash is so quick and faint on the MR that it's really not noticeable *at all*...

seems like all of the recent white clash flash threads have been using CF boards. Grayven and Novastar - does this mean that the MR boards aren't that good after all? Or do we just need to add something like a power extender?

:confused:

[grayven]

Well I did try recently with a GGW. I was doing a MR Yoda conversion and thought this would be a great place for the clash Flash. The setup worked but the green way overpowers the white so it's hardly even noticeable. I know the BBW works next I will try the RRW, it should work fine two. I think for the green blades I will have to cut off the green for the second I flash the white. So it wil take more components and space. I have been really sick this last week and a half and just now starting to fell better. I'm also still waiting for the RRW and BBW from Xwing for the other two conversions. I will post more as it comes. Unfortunately with life in the way it makes for a slow progression.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Awesome job guys. I am interested to find out which one will be the best setup for the flash to show up well. Please keep us informed.

[Novastar]

I'm going to try hastening the process by intervening with a batch of Rebels that I can hopefully order fairly soon. We'll see though.

Although... to help folks out (unless they already know, and then they can disregard)... you have a few ways of approaching things:

Let's start with a RRW example. And I'll add the caveat that I don't even know if that will produce the effect desired yet. We'll see. But anyhow, it's an example for clarity:

RRW

R + R in series, looking for ~6v... 700mA to 1000mA

W in parallel (as flash) for ~3.2v... on its own line to the batteries, so no real concern of extra current flowing through the "normal" circuit. You can drive as much or as little current through as you like (or as your extender allows), probably 1000mA would be good.

Why it could be a very good setup... well, if your battery solution is at least around 7.2v or more... you're easily able to handle the "normal" R + R current... and if you have CF or US... you can play around with the current values all you like since you could send up to 1500mA if you were really daring to "go wild" with overdrive. Plus, the flash is (as mentioned) irrelevant to the current flowing through CF, so... you should be good.

RRW

R + R in parallel, looking for ~3v... 1500mA to 2000mA (2A generally not possible with most sound+light drivers like CF and US)

W in parallel (as flash) for ~3.2v... on its own line to the batteries (same as above)

Why this isn't really as ideal as the above... well, although this reduces the battery voltage needed (and so you could even sport a single 3.7v Li-Ion 18650 cell)... the draw is pretty hardcore, and if you were running CF or US... you'd have to set it to the maximum--1500mA. And you'd have no room to go higher, obviously. This would be running each LED @ ~750mA each.

Additionally, you'd barely have enough power to boost other components (such as nice speakers, motors, LED indicators)... and possibly even the right amount to drive the board. In other words... it might be ok in the first 5 minutes with full charge... but... shortly afterward, you would not be powering your main LEDs at maximum spec.

Further--remember that the harder the draw (more amps you're asking for)... ... the easier/quicker the voltage falls/drops. So... it's quite possible that when you caused the clash (and the flash) to be triggered... well... uh, ok, your battery would NOT be able to maintain the right voltage to REALLY make it "pop out" at you. At least... that's my best guess at it.

Now... if you gave your setup 4.5v... ok, maybe you'd be good for the parallel setup, but... hmm.

-----------------------

SO! Make of all that what you will... and hopefully more will be to come later on. I don't know. Work's been keeping me busy. Plus some other things that I'll tell you guys about later on... :)

[Anavrin]

Hi,
Thank you Grayven, Do-Clo, and Novastar for the great work you are doing.

Is there ETA for the tutorial on this? i figure i am a couple of weeks away from needing to salvage the board off my joe-jedi saber - i've managed to crack the blade already after a week of ownership ;).

I plan to place an order for a custom 3-up Rebel by the end of the week and the color combo i choose is somewhat dependant on knowing how this is done (my hilt is getting kinda full).

Cheers,
V

You CAN make the blade removable and add in a TCSS or Corbin style blade to the hilt–or simply buy a new thin walled blade (Buuuuut, you see where THAT ended up ;) ). I just made my blade removeable and it's really about an hour and a half's work. Tomorrow I'll post the Tut.

EDIT: Didn't realize your post was so far back, Vade, Mea Culpa! But I'll carry through nonetheless for any interested.