BuckPuck1000 And CW Ultimate Saber Sound

[vsxultra]

Greetings,

I read another post that discussed how to connect the Clone Wars Ultimate Lightsaber together with a BuckPuck.
Found Here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6571&page=3) Post #23 & 24

I am not sure if what was meant by REF + CTL on the buckpuck. Hopefully someone could enlighten with a quick way to understand the schematic.

My BuckPuck1000 has LED+/- and VIN +/- (no ref or ctl)

Just to make sure I don't fry my buck and LUXIII, I would like to clarify how to wire the sound board to the Buckpuck1000.

I will be using 4AAA alkaline to power the BP1000. I know what goes to what if I was using no sound. I only need to know where the buckpuck fits into the Ultimate Saber sound board scheme and how to properly power it.

Thanks in advance.

VSXUltra

[swear000]

I am not sure if what was meant by REF + CTL on the buckpuck. Hopefully someone could enlighten with a quick way to understand the schematic.




That's funny because i asked about the same thing. Apparently the REF + CTL can be used in conjunction with a potentiometer to adjust brightness.

[Darth_DevilGuy]

the ref and ctrl are the two 'extra' prongs on the puck, you can use a pot to control brightness, but you can also hook in the LED leads from a board like a hasbro thus using the output from that to control the brightness, if the hasbro has flash on clash or ramp up/down you can use the ref + ctrl prongs to let the hasbro board impart roughly the same features on the puck.

[Darth Demens]

Interestingly enough, the BP1000 I just got from Tim had no CTL or REF wires. Just the VIN+/- and LED+/-

[Jedi-Loreen]

Yeah, it says in the Store Description that they aren't coming with those anymore.

[vsxultra]

Being that the Pucks don't come equipped with the REF/CTL anymore, how would the wiring work on the new pucks?

Only VIN and LED on mine. Hopefully there's a way to get it rolling. If anyone else has got this to work, please advise.

Thanks

VSXUltra

[Strydur]

I can stock both types. It had seemed nobody was using the extra leads and it was just leading to customer confusion so I decided to switch styles. If people are using the old style I can get them again.

[vsxultra]

So I take it there is no way to wire together the CW Ultimate Saber sound board with the BuckPuck that has no ref/ctl?

I know I can get a 2 button setup to make that work, but that would be a little inconvenient, as I would like the sound and light to fire up with one button.

Hopefully someone else has got this to work without the extra inputs I am missing.

Thanks

VSXUltra

[Ghostbat]

I can stock both types. It had seemed nobody was using the extra leads and it was just leading to customer confusion so I decided to switch styles. If people are using the old style I can get them again.

I personally would like to have the extra control leads for using these in conjunction with MR or Hasbro boards.

[Orthus]

I can stock both types. It had seemed nobody was using the extra leads and it was just leading to customer confusion so I decided to switch styles. If people are using the old style I can get them again.

I'm a fan of the CTRL-REF version. On the soundboard I'm building from scratch, I use a PWM to ramp brightness. On a newly acquired 616 board, I'm currently prototyping (the breadboard is sitting next to my mouse ;-) an op amp circuit to drive the CTRL from the REF and the 616 LED output so I can get the ramp up-down effects.

[vsxultra]

Would there still be a way to power both the sound board and the BuckPuck (No ref/ctl) with the same batter pack and perhaps 2 switches?

I would settle for that, as long as I can power both units with the same 4AAA holder. I think I would be able to make the switch in the sound board always on and I can figure the rest out with the main power switch. I would just like to know how I can run the same power to the pucks power input and the Sound board's. Is it simply just a matter of splitting the power wires?

Thanks

VSXUltra

[Darth Leximus]

Yes you can do that. Just splice the batt wires from the board into the batt wires for you led setup and there you go. I ran that setup until just recently and I'm actually working on a new project that will at least temporarily use the same setup.

[Anavrin]

I can stock both types. It had seemed nobody was using the extra leads and it was just leading to customer confusion so I decided to switch styles. If people are using the old style I can get them again.

I don't mean to rez the thread, but GOOD GHU do I want one with the REF/CTRL leads–I was askin' forever if I could do what was suggested here but must have missed this! (My search-foo–it is weak!) Does anyone know what happens if I run two of the LEDs on the Joe Jedi off one 1000mA Puck? Will it work, fry, or be too dim? Should I go with a 700mA and just one of the LEDs? If that is useful, I'll have an order the moment I know I can do this–no questions (If, of course, they're in stock–site seems to say so... so tempting not to wait for an answer, but I must not be so impulsive!)

Thanks and sorry again for the thread bump XD I really wish I had taken an electronics course *sweat*

[cannibal869]

Just FYI, as far as I can tell, the clone wars ultimate lightsaber soundboard has no ramp up or ramp down effect...

So using it with a 6 wire buckpuck is kinda silly IMHO.
All you need is just the standard 4 wire

Unless you're going for an RGB rebel or seoul, just take all of the
3 common negative LED wires from the board and solder them together.
Then connect the (3 wire) neg and (black wire?!) pos LEDs from the soundboard and attach them directly to the 1000 or 700 mA buckpuck and you should be all set.

Voila, no need for 2 switches.
this setup is assuming you're using 6V (4AA or 4AAA). Not sure if it would work with 3 batteries (4.5V)

[Anavrin]

Unless you're going for an RGB rebel or seoul, just take all of the
3 common negative LED wires from the board and solder them together.
Then connect the (3 wire) neg and (black wire?!) pos LEDs from the soundboard and attach them directly to the 1000 or 700 mA buckpuck and you should be all set.

Voila, no need for 2 switches.
this setup is assuming you're using 6V (4AA or 4AAA). Not sure if it would work with 3 batteries (4.5V)

First: Bookmarked, and saved. I need that info fierce ;) But I'm still concerned about accidentally over- or under-driving the LEDs. Say I am using the Joe Jedi 616's Red and Green LEDs (For something approaching Yellow), off a 1000mA puck, using the standard power pack–is that good? Bad? Explosive? What if I just use all three– RG&B? What about just one? Forgive me for being utterly electronics clueless. I can wire my own computer, but I'm already familiar with those parts and only know it by rote, not true understanding *dies*

[FenderBender]

If you're using a Prolight from the 616 on a 1kma puck and only using 2 dies, then you are overdriving them pretty good. I hope that you have it heatsinked well. I overdrive them all the time, so I know it can be done, but you want to manage the heat real good. Are you using the 616 board or the Clone Wars board? This thread and wiring set up only applies to the Clone Wars board as the 616 is a whole other ball of wiring and dissappointment.

[Anavrin]

If you're using a Prolight from the 616 on a 1kma puck and only using 2 dies, then you are overdriving them pretty good. I hope that you have it heatsinked well. I overdrive them all the time, so I know it can be done, but you want to manage the heat real good. Are you using the 616 board or the Clone Wars board? This thread and wiring set up only applies to the Clone Wars board as the 616 is a whole other ball of wiring and dissappointment.

The wiring for the Joe (which I am using) makes enough sense to me to hook up for my purposes (I'm basically using it stock but with the LED wires from the board to the CTRL REF on the Puck which I'll drive off the same pack as the board–which will be stock.) though I'm feeling like the stock battery pack just won't power this blighter well enough to warrant a 1000mA Puck. I can't take apart my one battery pack, so I don't know if they've wired in series, parallel, or some other bodged idea, or if I could re-wire that and keep the shell intact.

Hmmm... I think I'm just kinda flying blind on this O_o;; Should make it an interesting experiment, even if it's made of fail ;)

*flails and dies*