Accent LEDs with a USv2?

[Count Malik]

Another question, I know how to do accent LEDs on a CF... But I don't know if you can with a Ultra Sound v2?:confused: If anybody could tell me how to do it, that is if it is possible by all means?:D

[eastern57]

Yup. It's totally possible. Reference the resistor chart in the store for a resistor, and with the right resistor, you can wire where ever you want.

- from the LED pads it will act like the main LED (PPO)
- between the batter and board it will be constantly on when power is fed
- you can wire it between the battery and switch so it only lights up when you hit the switch
- you can put it between the switch and main LED so it's a PPO only when the button is pushed...

... lots of possibilities :)

[Novastar]

Echoing Eastern on this one...

I see a lot of posts about this, and it's much easier than most people think. Remember: an LED is an LED is an LED is an LED. Just like direct current is current is current is current, etc. Same for voltage.

A good way to think of it is... well... you're ALREADY powering *ONE* main LED (not to mention SOME people use Rebels with "three" LEDs and other configurations)... so what's the big deal about adding "tiny" LEDs that require a measely 20mA or 10mA or whatever??!? Nothin'. Zilch. Zero. Nada. Zip. De Rien. :)

The same goes for most ANY device that draws power. Such as a vibration motor... or... a special sensor... or... I don't freakin' know, maybe a solar cell that you plan to harness the sunlight from... :D

heheheh

[Count Malik]

Mmmm... So if I were put a resistor on this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-LED-indicator--P113.aspx LED sold in the shop and connect it to the LED pads on the USv2 and mount it. I would be done?:confused::cool: And that is one way I could power it?

Echoing Eastern on this one...

I see a lot of posts about this, and it's much easier than most people think. Remember: an LED is an LED is an LED is an LED. Just like direct current is current is current is current, etc. Same for voltage.

A good way to think of it is... well... you're ALREADY powering *ONE* main LED (not to mention SOME people use Rebels with "three" LEDs and other configurations)... so what's the big deal about adding "tiny" LEDs that require a measely 20mA or 10mA or whatever??!? Nothin'. Zilch. Zero. Nada. Zip. De Rien. :)

The same goes for most ANY device that draws power. Such as a vibration motor... or... a special sensor... or... I don't freakin' know, maybe a solar cell that you plan to harness the sunlight from... :D

heheheh

[Matt Thorn]

Mmmm... So if I were put a resistor on this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-LED-indicator--P113.aspx LED sold in the shop and connect it to the LED pads on the USv2 and mount it. I would be done?:confused::cool: And that is one way I could power it?

Whoa. Just the two cents of a noob, but I wouldn't solder the accent LED connections directly to the UltraSound board. You haven't got a lot of room there to begin with, and trying to solder multiple contacts to one contact could prove disastrous. I think it would be better--and easier--to do something like this:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=42&pictureid=426
This assumes you're using a 4.8 volt battery pack. For other voltages, check out the resistor chart (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/resistor.aspx) to see how many ohms you need.

[Count Malik]

Thanks. I actually am ugrading my CF saber (now known as Nibiru:D) once its done (tomarow!):p But Thanks for everyones advice at least if anybody needed to know how to do this, they have this thread.:wink:

Whoa. Just the two cents of a noob, but I wouldn't solder the accent LED connections directly to the UltraSound board. You haven't got a lot of room there to begin with, and trying to solder multiple contacts to one contact could prove disastrous. I think it would be better--and easier--to do something like this:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=42&pictureid=426
This assumes you're using a 4.8 volt battery pack. For other voltages, check out the resistor chart (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/resistor.aspx) to see how many ohms you need.

[eastern57]

hehe, the way I read this, it kind of sounds like you're "upgrading" from a CF to US. :p

I'm guessing you just scored a v4.1, and upgrading to that right?

[Count Malik]

Actually this is a CFv4.0 I got back in like Aug. 08. The board is a great board, in other words I love it but I had to sort'a upgrade the swiches and hilt. just because my guarded swich button (the part that actually pushes down fell out.:twisted:) I didn't want to do another loud clicking gaurded latchings swich again. so I had a different hilt (my personal fav.:mrgreen:) that has the regular latching swich hole. (using reg. latching swich with a radio shack momentary tactile push buttons.) I got everything out of the old hilt and cut the swich connections. Then solder on the reg. latching swich which works fine. then I went to hit my aux. swich which I wired up, and nothing happend. I tried a different swich (same type) and it worked but It wasn't solderd on. I was just holding it with my fingers. (it kep flashing and rebuting without and with me pushing the buttion.) So I think all I need to do is actually wire up the swich and then try it.;):cool:

But I still would like to try out the Ultra Sound v2 out.:-D

[Novastar]

I don't want to de-rail too much, but... Malik, if you're having a CF issue, I'd be glad to help: feel free to post in the CF sections, message me... and definitely give me a photo if you please... :)

And... hmm... to UN-derail... I hope everyone knows that you can get an accent LED with the Ultrasound boards that is "interesting" (instead of just constantly on) by tying it to the LED current... to get the flickering. You could even do more than one, or a bi-color or tri-color LED... or whatever. Even a motor! :)

The trick is... make sure you wire it correctly. Corbin taught me long ago, and of course so did Erv:

1. + of the "main" Luxeon or whatever.... splits to the new "indicator" LED as well

2. - of the new "indicator" LED to the battery source's negative... NOT the main LED's. I repeat, NOT the main LED's.

3. Resistor (that is correct given your battery setup and the LED indicator's fwd v and so forth)... which can be on either your positive or negative leg to this "new" LED... it doesn't matter.

Again, you could also do this with a motor. The motor would "mimic" the LED current as well... and work especially well if you get *JUST* the right resistor in there... or use a trim pot.

[Matt Thorn]

I hope everyone knows that you can get an accent LED with the Ultrasound boards that is "interesting" (instead of just constantly on) by tying it to the LED current... to get the flickering

That's exactly what I did today with my newly arrived US2.0. Looks great. The trick for me has been getting everything to fit in the hilt! Bracketed accent LEDs like those TCSS sells take up a surprising amount of space, and since I have a guarded switch immediately below it taking up even more space, stuffing everything in and getting the blade holder and pommel screwed on (without messing up the accent LED and its resistor) is no easy chore. :(

[Count Malik]

I don't want to de-rail too much, but... Malik, if you're having a CF issue, I'd be glad to help: feel free to post in the CF sections, message me... and definitely give me a photo if you please... :)

And... hmm... to UN-derail... I hope everyone knows that you can get an accent LED with the Ultrasound boards that is "interesting" (instead of just constantly on) by tying it to the LED current... to get the flickering. You could even do more than one, or a bi-color or tri-color LED... or whatever. Even a motor! :)

The trick is... make sure you wire it correctly. Corbin taught me long ago, and of course so did Erv:

1. + of the "main" Luxeon or whatever.... splits to the new "indicator" LED as well

2. - of the new "indicator" LED to the battery source's negative... NOT the main LED's. I repeat, NOT the main LED's.

3. Resistor (that is correct given your battery setup and the LED indicator's fwd v and so forth)... which can be on either your positive or negative leg to this "new" LED... it doesn't matter.

Again, you could also do this with a motor. The motor would "mimic" the LED current as well... and work especially well if you get *JUST* the right resistor in there... or use a trim pot.

Thanks nova there really wan't a problem. I just had to swich/upgrade my hilt to make it more nicer and "safer".:rolleyes: Yay! now I can actually film/produce the fan film movies/series Tales Of The Modern Jedi (TOTMJ). I'm so excited. (might pm you on coreogoraphy type stuff! :)) might make a misc. thread.