7.2Lith with LuxV?

[Eco]

I'm considering ordering the Lux V kit rather than the Lux III kit for my first saber. But I can't shell out for 6 AA batteries everytime I need to recharge, so can the Kit be rigged to run off of 7.2v LithIon batteries? And if so, how?


EDIT:: Okay, I'm stupid. About three minutes after I posted this, I looked at the LED resistor chart. I know it will work, as long as I do direct drive with a 700ma BuckPuck. Including sound wouldn't work. Got it.

To Tim(If you even read this...) Might I suggest making the Resistor chart a bit more noticeable from the store pages? It's a very useful little chart, but I keep forgetting the darn thing's there. Thanks!

[Novastar]

At least you checked your stuff, Eco. And it doesn't hurt to have others re-assure you that--yes--7.2v should be fine with a Lux V.

Here's an example of a saber I made using no driver at all... just a little careful calculations and metering to see how far I could push things without going WAAAAY too far and destroying my Lux V:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Os7TxBQfEZs

If you'll notice, I was actually monitoring the overall voltage (throughout the course of the discharge cycle)... and metering the current as well to see what would happen as the "top" voltage of the pack fell to something more "average"... and finally, nearer to its "low" charge output.

Most of the numbers (except for the initial 1200mA or so) were rough estimates, since I was not going to turn it into a gigantic "perfect science" experiment. Besides, I only have a multimeter, not a dedicated power supply for bench-testing!!

But one thing is clear... the Lux V *CAN* handle 1200mA (at least this one can)... it's bloody bright (brightest saber setup I own), and 8v didn't seem to be a big problem.

I was wary of giving it 8.4v though... :) Maybe too much (directly-driven) current there!!! :shock:

[Eco]

Okay, so if I got that right, that saber was at 8v 1.2A using a 7.5ohm resistor?
It said also 'Ultra style blade', what kinds of diffusers does that actually use?

And, I'm planning on using the LiIon battery out of one of my airsoft rifles, which I believe is identical to Tim's 6AAA 7.2v 1000ma... If it is a 1000ma, will I still need a Buckpuck? The puck would still increase my battery life, I believe, but is it necessary?

Very bright saber, by the way, and pretty sweet hilt on top of that.

[Novastar]

The hilt is comprised of MHS parts with a sink tube. Good stuff. I wanted to use the Li-Ion "stick" in the long neck section, so... I made it work.

A buck puck wouldn't likely be too helpful in this case. Here's why: a buckpuck usually would require about 1v or 2v *OVER* what the forward (or maximum) voltage is of your LED. Since it's a component with logic going on, it requires some power itself. You'd probably be better off with 9.6v + buckpuck + Lux V in this case.

But that doesn't mean it can't be done.

Further, the 1000mA packs may or may not be able to provide a draw of 1200+ mA... I have no idea. This, you would have to ask of Tim, or see what the cells say on the mfc markings/sticker. The "amp draw" is VERY different from the "mAh rating". A lot of people get those confused, especially when new. I did. :)

Finally, the blades are made as described here in Eandori's tutorial:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyJVyRDm0Y4

There are other ways to diffuse a blade (many others), and combinations can be used as well... but I've found this style to be the most conducive to my needs.

[Eco]

I don't even know what the difference is at all. XD
Been a long time since I've done any kind of wiring, and my memory from shop class my freshman year is far behind me.

I just checked the battery packs from both my rifles, and actually they're both NiCad batteries. One's a 7.2v 700mAh and the other's a 7.2v 300mA.
Either way, not what I want, so I'm likely to stick with Tim's kit setup until I can afford actual LithIons.
Unless that is still what I want? I'm so confused! DX

[Novastar]

There are many battery technologies, and although (ultimately) voltage is voltage is voltage and current is current is current... no, you would not want to use those packs for a saber.

You do not HAVE to use Li-Ions... but I certainly like them. That's just me. You can use whatever you want, but certainly Tim's setup would work. For some kind of current-regulating driver board (i.e. Crystal Focus, Ultrasound, Corbin, buckpuck)... you'd probably want at least 1 to 3 volts more.

[Eco]

I know I don't have to use Lith Ions, but I'm unemployed so I can't really afford to spend a fortune on batteries.
Thanks for the help though!

[Novastar]

For short term usage, alkalines would be the cheapest...

For long term usage, Li-ion would likely be a great bet.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Li-ions are actually cheaper in the long run!