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View Full Version : Question to anyone that's ordered the new control box 2



samurai_rob
11-18-2008, 10:04 PM
What, in your opinion, is the best way to affix it to a MHS center section? I was thinking of screws but I haven't got it in the mail yet to see if that is really advisable. My only concern is that the center section will be sent to Tim later for powder coating so I think something like JB Weld is most likely out... or is it? Can anyone help?

Clockwork
11-18-2008, 10:37 PM
If it is going onto a MHS centre section, I would drill 2 holes in the control box, that fit a screw through them and then 2 smaller holes in the centre section (that line up obviously) and tap the smaller holes them to the screw threads. Screws go through the control box and thread into the centre section, easy as 22/7. Also, if you get the centre section powder coated later, all you need to do is re-tap the holes and that should remove any powder coating that would mess up the threads.

Gandrobacca
11-18-2008, 11:47 PM
Any thoughts on "finishing" the open sides of the control box? Or do they not even show that much?

samurai_rob
11-19-2008, 07:20 AM
I don't think box 2 is open. that's one reason I picked it. I liked box 3 but it was open on both ends.

Gandrobacca
11-19-2008, 08:17 AM
Samurai Rob:

After re-examining the pix at the store, you're right...

Box 3 appears to have the most "empty space" on the sides, but boxes 1 & 2 don't have too much. Do you plan to leave the sides alone on your saber, or are you going to cover the gaps with something (thin sheet of metal, tape, etc)? I'd be curious to see how these activation boxes look on a finished saber, since they're relatively new to the store.

I'd also be interested in knowing what hardware you use to attach the box to the hilt--probably have to be something with a really flat head.

samurai_rob
11-19-2008, 11:49 AM
There does appear to be a small gap, but Its not too bad. I'll wait and see how it looks when I get it in and go from there. I'm using a vader-style clamp on a saber now and I've not done anything with the gaps yet. they're not that bad and I may just leave it alone. I'll keep you updated, though. My order should be here sometime next week.

Jay-gon Jinn
11-19-2008, 02:04 PM
Here's how I mounted one to an mHS based saber:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0658.jpg

The rest of what I did with that switchbox can be seen here:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4422&page=5

Master Dru-Er
11-19-2008, 02:10 PM
Thats awesome. I was thinking something along the lines of some epoxy and set screws seeing as there isn't too much room. Adding the epoxy since im not tightening down on to a head, would like to have them not back out.

Clockwork
11-19-2008, 02:55 PM
Thats awesome. I was thinking something along the lines of some epoxy and set screws seeing as there isn't too much room. Adding the epoxy since im not tightening down on to a head, would like to have them not back out.

I would use lock-tight rather than epoxy. That would stop them backing out but leave the option to manually back them out if you needed to.

Jedi-Loreen
11-19-2008, 04:54 PM
The blue Loctite is the removable kind. ;)

Clockwork
11-19-2008, 06:47 PM
The blue Loctite is the removable kind. ;)

Good point, thanks for clarifying my statement

B5813
11-29-2008, 11:50 PM
I'd do what Jay-gon did... mount the box using a couple of small, maybe 6/32 or 8/32, flat head machine screws. Use a countersink bit to set them below the surface and you can mount a card over top with no problem. I just did that on box style 1 and there's plenty of room in the middle still for switch/lights. Consider permanent mounting carefully.

samurai_rob
11-30-2008, 03:22 PM
Mine is supposed to be here tomorrow. Once I have it in hand, it'll make deciding what I'm gonna do with it a lot easier. Thanks for all the input. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.