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Firebird21
03-23-2006, 05:10 PM
Well I have one here that I think is...
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It keeps making the sound that it wants to power up, the light goes dim, and when it happens it just keeps getting faster and faster...

Then if you hit it just right it will work fine until you hit it wrong again.

It had fresh batteries, cuz that was my first thought.

Please help!!!

Edit: All fixed!!! I hope...


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LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 05:15 PM
recheck your wiring, sounds like a short someplace. also have a question for you. i would email you but theres no link to it. so here goes: do-clo and myself are getting new boxes for vader belt setups. the ones we are getting are unpainted aluminum cast boxes. they have a screw on backplate. now then, the question, what procedure and paint(black) would you reccomend to use for painting these boxes? do-clo said we might want to use a clearcoat on them as well to help the finish from flakin and crackin/peelin. would we need to sand the boxes rough, prime with what paint? and then apint them with a good gloss black auto paint? and then use the clearcoat sealer, and what type clearcoat would you reccommend?

do-clo said you'd be the gut to ask this question to. so there it is.

any help on this we would both be appreciative of. thanks,

Lan-Ed-Tul

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Firebird21
03-23-2006, 05:17 PM
I pulled it apart and couldn't find any loose or chafed wires.

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LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 05:23 PM
maybe do-clo could help out with that. i'll alert him to your dilema and hopefully you can answer ours to.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Firebird21
03-23-2006, 05:27 PM
Do you want a glossy finnish, or Matte (flat)?

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LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 05:33 PM
i think we both want gloss, ill have to ask do-clo. if thats what he wants. and i asked him about your dilema too. hopefully he will get back soon. hes the electronic wiz and if its electrical, he might know the answer. also you didnt say if it was a scratch built or a mr converted saber. the only thing i can think of if its not a short, is may the pins arent connecting good when you insert the batt/speaker module. maybe try pushing in slightly on speaker to make sure the pins are contacting good, run thru power on and down, see if that might be it, if so, then a simple fix of a piece of craft foam, with sticky back from wally world cut a ring of it to fit under end cap. thats of course, if this is the prob.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Firebird21
03-23-2006, 05:38 PM
It's a converted Anakin MRFX

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Do-Clo
03-23-2006, 05:42 PM
Firebird is this a converted MR saber or is it a homebuilt saber with a MR sound board?

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 05:50 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Do-Clo

Firebird is this a converted MR saber or is it a homebuilt saber with a MR sound board?

Don't make me destroy you...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

he answered it right before your post do-clo. a mrfx anakin
Do-Clo

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Firebird21
03-23-2006, 05:52 PM
If you can get your hands on Dupont’s Emron Single Stage paint you should be golden. That stuff is known for its durability, but no one uses it anymore because of V.O.C. B/S and most body shops use a Base/Clear system (so they can blend the color).

The next best thing is any name brand BC/CC. Dupont, Glaserit (sp?), Sherwin Williams, are some of the top brands commonly found at your local body shop, so you could also find them at a local paint supplier. If you add some “Flex Agent” to the clear, it will help resist chipping.

My advice to you would be to get them done at your local body shop. They have the equipment and expertise to get it done right. And you can’t get this paint in the small quantities you’re going to need. You’ll have to buy at least a quart of clear, pint of activator, reducer, when you’ll only need a couple of ounces worth. So in the long run you’ll spend less to pay a body shop to do it for you, the BEST way.

Or you could take your chances with a spray-can version of a B/C C/C system, like Duplicolor or Plasticoat, but they won’t resist chipping as well, and generaly don't have as much gloss.


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LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 05:57 PM
hear that do-clo. guess we will takem to the local body shop to have them painted. thanx for the advice firebird its a big help.


is this the same paints we would use if it were matte finish? say, using a matte paint, and then using a cleargloss coat over that?

hopefully do-clo can help you on your prob. he really knows his stuff in electronics. if its electrical, he should know something that will solve this.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Do-Clo
03-23-2006, 06:00 PM
Firebird try pressing in on the battery pack and see it the problems goes away, if it does then the problem is in the battery pack or the contacts between the battery pack and the sound board. A small rubber washer like a sink drain washer or even an rubber o ring might just do the job.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

Firebird21
03-23-2006, 06:05 PM
Black is the cheapest color too, some paint systems have "Ready to spray" black, so it shouldn't cost too much to paint it.

If you wanted to, you could prep it yourself and bring it to the shop so they can paint it for you. Just follow the BOP tutorial and stop at the painting process. Sand, etch prime, and finnish at the fill primer. Sand that with some 400Grit paper, keep it clean and bring it to the shop ready to spray.

Some filler primer is Self-Etching, that will eliminate one step for you.

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Firebird21
03-23-2006, 06:08 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Do-Clo

Firebird try pressing in on the battery pack and see it the problems goes away...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

That does nothing...

But something interesting, if I position the batt. pack just right so it cuts off the lead to the speaker, the light gets bright again...


Edit:
And I thought I had it fixed once...
Every time I tapped the plug for the Light it would act up... It wasn't fully connected.
So I go to put it back together, test it, and it acts up again!
This was before posting.

Edit #2:
I just tested it again, when it's acting up, and I cut off the speaker, the light works fine.

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Do-Clo
03-23-2006, 06:15 PM
It definately sounds like your problem is in the connections between the battery pack and the sound board. Do you have a voltmeter?, if so remove the battery pack and press on the batteries and pack while measuring the voltage, this might require an extra hand so you might want to draft some help. If the voltage remains the same without changing then the problem lies inside the saber which could be a loose wire or maybe the plug that connects from the sound board and the contacts pins is loose. If the problem lies in the battery pack you can remove the three philps screws on top of the battery pack and look for a pinched wire or for a loose wire.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

Firebird21
03-23-2006, 06:32 PM
I MAY have fixed it...

While I was testing it, the wire came off of the switch, I soldered it back on and it appears to be working fine, AT THE MOMENT...

I'll attepmt to put it back together and let you know the outcome...

Edit:
All back together, some light dueling taps, and to problem YET...
Knock on wood.

I HATE borrowing things! lol

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Do-Clo
03-23-2006, 06:36 PM
I figured a loose wire but sometimes finding it can be a real pain in the south end. It is very fustrating trying to trouble shot something that you can't see(lol) but I don't mind helping when I can.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 06:47 PM
as i thought too. that lil wire is pretty small and can snap off easily if not handled very carefully when tearing it apart and reassembly. on my vader mr i cut the wires about a 1.4 inch from the switch. and then just resoldered the wires together. made it easier than tryin to resolder to switch contacts. and possibly burning up switch while resoldering connections. worked just fine on mine.



You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Firebird21
03-23-2006, 06:47 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Do-Clo

I figured a loose wire but sometimes finding it can be a real pain in the south end. It is very fustrating trying to trouble shot something that you can't see(lol) but I don't mind helping when I can.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Thank you very much...

At the very least you helped me keep my cool. I was about to throw something!

I still don't know 100% for sue if it's fixed, so I may still need your help.

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LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 06:51 PM
it sounds like to me, the wire was broken, only held on by the plastic sheathing. and was intermittingly making contact.

keep playin round with it and see how it works.

and also, did ya catch that added question about goin for the matte with a clearcoat gloss sealer on the boxes? what paint types that would be if we went with matte finish. also i just looked up about powder coating. a black powder coating on these would be cool too. i know a plac ein tulsa, its a biker shop place, and they do powder coating. do you think that would be an option to go with

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Firebird21
03-23-2006, 06:52 PM
To get a matte finish you (for most systems) only have to add a Flattening agent into the clear. No big deal.


I never even thought of powder coating!
That may be the way... It's very durable.
You can get home kits, but you need a dedicated oven. You don't want to bake cookies in the same oven you bake powder coating.

You'd have to call around for a profesional place for that... Hot Rod and Custom shops may be a good place to start.

Edit: You may loose some fine detail with powder caoting, it tends to be think sometimes.

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LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 06:56 PM
yeah, i know of a place in tulsa. i live about 40 minutes from tulsa and i work there. so not really out of way. as a matter of fact, the place i know of is only a few miles from work. they do powder coating. i could take the boxes there and see how much theyd charge me to do them in black. i think the black boxes we got the first time from allied electronics were actually powder coated anyways. and that finish is tough.


no real details to lose on these boxes firebird. all the details are the bolt on bolts and lenses and hose through slots. other than the that, theres no detailing. so thats not a issue there. this may be the way to go then. i will delve into that some more, once i get the boxes, i will takem by there and check it out. first i'll have to make the slot cuts and drill my holes and switch slots.
You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Do-Clo
03-23-2006, 07:16 PM
Great idea, I would have never thought about powder coating, that is one tough finish and it looks great. Firebird glad you found your problem.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 07:39 PM
whoooo hooooo, i may have hit the solution with the powder coating, cool. see us older guys still have some smarts left in us, lol

senility hasnt snuck in yet. lol

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

LAN-ED-TUL
03-25-2006, 03:57 AM
hows the saber holdin up firebird? still workin?

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

tetmatek
03-25-2006, 09:59 AM
had Some problems with the power wires doing that same thing. I Remove the wires totally and install this cool plug. This totally took care of all those type problems. As for Imron it's 1950's tech but like firebird says is durable. The problem is it keeps hardening up to the point it cracks over time. If you want i can handle any refinishing needs. The shipping will be what stinks. I can refinish any of this stuff and prety much guarantee it will stick. I've Painted shower curtains to test adhesion promotors and it worked. You can even ball up the curtain and it will stick if prepared properly. This is a demonstartion all paint co. use to showcase their plastic refinish products. Just get in touch if ya need any of that. by the way i bake everything so it's cured when i'm done. Now here's the plug i use on the MR boards
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/1484/img02245dz.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/3213/sig35jo.jpg

Do-Clo
03-25-2006, 02:49 PM
tetmatek that connector looks very familiar as it is used on many low priced two way radios as a battery connector or as a speaker connector. I will keep you in mind on painting and will drop you a line later.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

Tiberius172
03-26-2006, 02:14 AM
Firebird,

Hey guy, I've got a very similar problem with my Anakin MR saber. When you first turn it on everything is fine. Then it will "clash" on its own. Once it starts this it keeps getting faster and faster untill it's just a constant clash. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Tiberius

Firebird21
03-26-2006, 08:50 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Tiberius172

Firebird,

Hey guy, I've got a very similar problem with my Anakin MR saber. When you first turn it on everything is fine. Then it will "clash" on its own. Once it starts this it keeps getting faster and faster until it's just a constant clash. Any suggestions?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


I would cut and re-solder the wires that go to the LED circuit board (carefully!). The clash sensor is that small tube that looks like a capacitor attached to the LED circuit board.
If you've converted it, you may likely have done the same thing that happened to this one. The wires are probably only still attached by the plastic coating, as a result of moving it around too much and it makes contact intermittently.

Good luck.


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Tiberius172
03-26-2006, 09:25 AM
I'll give this a try. If it still does the constant clash thing, I'm just going to remove the clash sensor so I'll just have the motion & power up/down sound.

Thanks!!
Tiberius

Do-Clo
03-26-2006, 09:34 AM
Recheck all your connections and wiring and you should be able to fix your problem, most problems are in the wiring and they can drive you crazy finding them.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

LAN-ED-TUL
03-26-2006, 09:23 PM
yeah, it is probably the wire only holding by the plastic sheathing. like firebirds prob was. just look closely at the wiring. these lil wires tend to break easily if moved around too much. happened to me on one project before.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

DACOTA
06-03-2006, 01:39 PM
i think i know what it is the wires that go from the battery pack contacts to the board have hot glue on them from the factory with, my anakin mr the glue came loose from dueling then it would flicker and sometimes i would position the pack like you did firebird then the sound would be off and the blade fully bright.so see if the glue is loose if it is then get more and glue it,careful when i did this the hotness of the glue made the solder warm and the wires pulled out. hope it helps

"aaah general kenobi you are a bold one."-general grievous

Firebird21
06-03-2006, 06:09 PM
I'll have to try that.

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DACOTA
06-13-2006, 05:20 PM
did it work?[?]

"aaah general kenobi you are a bold one."-general grievous