Graflex Stunt Saber? Help?

[chrisgomps07]

so i'm new to the customizing a saber, but i plan on making a saber out of a Graflax. this is something that i want to be able to duel with if i feel like, so i dont think i'll make it an actual light up one, unless those can be used to fight... anyways to my question, is it possible to set up the graflex handle to hold a blade that goes all the way into the saber to make it more sturdy? most of the ones i've seen just have the blade go a couple inches into the hilt. any advice would be helpful. thanks.

just add, i did notice that this site is mainly for EL/LED sabers, so if they are able to withstand fighting, let me know.

[swear000]

The graflex has a plastic housing in it. Once that is removed, you get a hollow metal tube which you can build any way you like. You could, for example, fill the entire tube with a wooden dowel with a hole drilled in the center to hold whatever blade you plan on using. Or you could even have some type of mount custom machined.

The blade holders in the shop are pretty sturdy and when used with a blade retention screw, will hold the plastic blades pretty well. That setup will allow you to have an LED and electronics.

[chrisgomps07]

The graflex has a plastic housing in it. Once that is removed, you get a hollow metal tube which you can build any way you like. You could, for example, fill the entire tube with a wooden dowel with a hole drilled in the center to hold whatever blade you plan on using. Or you could even have some type of mount custom machined.

The blade holders in the shop are pretty sturdy and when used with a blade retention screw, will hold the plastic blades pretty well. That setup will allow you to have an LED and electronics.

do the blade holders from here go all the way into the saber or just sit at the top? and can they be used without electronics?

[Luar Selbor]

Have you considered a sink tube design useing a 1.25" sink tube?

I have a design that you might what to have. You could up grade to a Lux or an EL lighting system if you want. The saber would be more sterdy and customized to your liking.

[Jedi-Loreen]

The blade holders do not go "all the way into" the saber. That would not allow for any electronics to be installed. :rolleyes:

2" is plenty deep for a blade to be held sturdily with a blade retention screw installed.

[swear000]

It may be that he is looking to do some very hard core dueling with the blade. I attached a picture of a katana that has the blade running all the way through the hilt. This is probably the sturdiest type of construction method. Although, I doubt it is used a lot since most of us build our sabers to look like replicas from the movies and do some light to moderate dueling (which the blade holder should work fine for). I know people also use carbon fiber rods for light weight and strength.

[Madcow]

For heavy duelling the graflex is a poor choice.

1. It is in 2 main peices, held together by a clamp. Fighting will seperate them
2. The rubber grips will not hold up well to repeated fighting... even with top notch adhesive.

IMHO your're better off with a custom saber styled like a graflex... one that can support a full tang blade if you want - but at lease is in one main peice.

Do you have a graflex flash that you want to use - or are you considering buying one?

MC

[chrisgomps07]

For heavy duelling the graflex is a poor choice.

1. It is in 2 main peices, held together by a clamp. Fighting will seperate them
2. The rubber grips will not hold up well to repeated fighting... even with top notch adhesive.

IMHO your're better off with a custom saber styled like a graflex... one that can support a full tang blade if you want - but at lease is in one main peice.

Do you have a graflex flash that you want to use - or are you considering buying one?

MC

no i dont have a graflex yet, and just fyi i wasnt planning on using the "T" grips. did you have something in mind?

[chrisgomps07]

just to add. i was originaly planning on getting a saber made from Randomsabers.com (one of their designs is almost exactly what i want) and then have them bore it out so the blade would go all the way into the hilt and use one of their carbon fiber rods. but sadly they arent taking any orders for a long time.

[sekrogue1985]

It may be that he is looking to do some very hard core dueling with the blade. I attached a picture of a katana that has the blade running all the way through the hilt. This is probably the sturdiest type of construction method. Although, I doubt it is used a lot since most of us build our sabers to look like replicas from the movies and do some light to moderate dueling (which the blade holder should work fine for). I know people also use carbon fiber rods for light weight and strength.

yeah I have one saber that is set up like this be for my serious dueling and or practicing and what not and let me tell you that this is the only way to go if you seriously want to bash the crap hell out of someone. I've tried with the various set ups found, from MHS, to Ultra, to whatever and they can only take some much, but enough that you don't seem like you are just trying to yeah... you get the idea.

PS i have that katana from that pic

[swear000]

Kendo practice swords seem pretty good but I imagine that the would break with enough force. How do you like that katana? It looks like a better quality one but is kinda pricey. I want to build several colored lightsabers to act as neon lights near a bar/entertainment area. I am looking for the right katana as a possible display piece above a fireplace or TV.

[Jedi-Loreen]

They go full force against armor with Kendo shinai, they should hold up well, if you keep them maintained.

I'm part of a lightsaber fighting class that meets every week, and that's what we use, because not everyone, like poor college students, can afford a $100+ duelable lightsaber, but just about everyone can afford a $35 shinai.

And, since we don't wear armor, we only go at 50% force.



I do fight with my MHS lightsabers, too. ;)

[Lord Dottore Matto]

My man you can have it all! well, except for sound if you want to duel VERY heavily. If you are worried about only 2" of blade secured inside the hilt, why not have an 8" blade holder machined or make one yourself? Y'all think old LDM is crazy??? Yes, crazy like a fox! Check this (http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/Golden%20Luke%20ROTJ/100_3445.jpg) saber. It is aluminum, roughly 12" long and has a 6" long aluminum blade holder, 1A pulsedriver and BIN 2 Lux V cyan. Again I say, my n00b friend, you CAN have it all. :cool:

[MoonDragn]

Take a look at my flashlight dueling saber. I built it out of 2 tactical harbor freight flashlight. The blade goes in about 3-4 inches and held on by a thumbscrew. I have a high grade Ultrablade in that thing but the Corbin battle blade from the shop will work just as well.

It holds up to really heavy dueling.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6395

In the 2nd post you can see my MHS saber. That is using the standard 2" bladeholder with the corbin battle blade it has held up to dueling as well.

[chrisgomps07]

just a thought, after looking at the MHS parts, would it be possible to make a duel worthy stunt saber out of those? or does the blade holders on those also only go about 2inches in?

and just for fun, i'm trying to get something similar to this...
http://www.randomsabers.com/saber.php?name=Blight

[swear000]

Well if banjos can duel than why not MHS parts?

[DarthFender]

Well if banjos can duel than why not MHS parts?

After that comment, I will pray for Deliverance. Hee hee!

Poor Ned Beaty

[chrisgomps07]

with the EL blade adapter for the graflex, if i get that without any of the electronics stuff, does the hole go through the whole adapter? if not, is it thin enough at the bottom of it to possibly bore it out?

[chrisgomps07]

i was suddenly hit with an idea i want some feed back on. i was dinkin around with one the of the PVC sabers i built a few years ago and i thought, if the graflex isnt real sturdy by itself, what about re-enforcing it? my idea is gut the graflex totally, then line the inside with layers of different size PVC tubes, which would all be held in place by one or two blade retension screws, and then make a piece that looks like an emitter. after all of that, leave enough room in the PVC tubes to hold a 3/4 inch PVC "blade". does this sound like a decent plan?

[Lord Dottore Matto]

i was suddenly hit with an idea i want some feed back on. i was dinkin around with one the of the PVC sabers i built a few years ago and i thought, if the graflex isnt real sturdy by itself, what about re-enforcing it? my idea is gut the graflex totally, then line the inside with layers of different size PVC tubes, which would all be held in place by one or two blade retension screws, and then make a piece that looks like an emitter. after all of that, leave enough room in the PVC tubes to hold a 3/4 inch PVC "blade". does this sound like a decent plan?

If you reallllllllly are set on ruining a perfectly good graflex, then yes it will work very well.:rolleyes:

[MoonDragn]

Exactly. A genuine Graflex flash tube will cost you somewhere between $100-$150 on ebay depending on it's condition. Is that really what you want to spend on a stunt saber for dueling? Is it worth it to put cheap pvc inside an expensive graflex tube?

Buy some MHS parts. The 2 inches of blade holder holds the blade pretty sturdy and will stand up to dueling. Get the Corbin battle blade so the blade can stand up to the dueling. You don't need any more than that unless you are bashing this saber against solid steel doors.

[chrisgomps07]

$100-150??! the only place i've seen them cost that much is the replicas on here. all the graflexs i've found have been only about $60 and under... anyways, if this is the only way i can get the exact saber i'm looking for, then yes i plan to do it. besides, the saber set up i looked at in MHS will cost me a minimum $115. take the add $60 or so graflex, add probably about $30 for the PVC tubing total, and i still have a the saber i want for less.

[MoonDragn]

$100-150??! the only place i've seen them cost that much is the replicas on here. all the graflexs i've found have been only about $60 and under... anyways, if this is the only way i can get the exact saber i'm looking for, then yes i plan to do it. besides, the saber set up i looked at in MHS will cost me a minimum $115. take the add $60 or so graflex, add probably about $30 for the PVC tubing total, and i still have a the saber i want for less.

We are talking about genuine Graflex 3 Cells that were used for the luke ANH sabers. There are other Graflex cells that were not used in the movie and those can go as cheap as $20. They are also ugly and you might as well use a sink tube if you want to use one of those, sink tube would hold up better.

There were some recent auctions for Graflex 2 cells that have been as low as $60, but they are missing the 3 cell holder. If you get a replacement holder from king of parts, thats still an extra $30.

[Roy's Blues]

If you are planning on making a Graflex saber that is anything, but a showpiece GET a replica.
The steel used in Vintage Graflexs will not hold up to the abuse you will put it through.
The replicas are made from newer stronger steel.

[chrisgomps07]

If you are planning on making a Graflex saber that is anything, but a showpiece GET a replica.
The steel used in Vintage Graflexs will not hold up to the abuse you will put it through.
The replicas are made from newer stronger steel.

that actually makes sense... damn, i want a graflex design that doesnt cost much. i cant win. haha

[tinfoilhelmet]

graflexes and most reproductions are made of brass...just make yer saber.
king of parts makes a bottom out of stainless i believe.
put it this way; if you were a graflex, would you want to collect dust in a closet or attic...or would you want to live on as a cherished lightsaber?
and something just dawned on me...what model of graflex are you talking about? the one with the glass eye? or the seventies one?

[B5813]

I converted a Graflex flash handle into a lightsaber hilt. The blade adapter is easy to install but you'll definitely want to reinforce it a bit. I took the small slider "switch" on the side and put a button head screw through that into the socket as well as putting an 8/32 one above the glass eye. It mounts with a much smaller flathead screw and for screen accuracy you'd leave it but to make it stronger drill/tap a slightly larger(8/32) hole into the socket.

It really does make for a cool saber but unfortunately it was designed to be a flash handle... not a hard dueling saber. Still, it's pretty strong with a good conversion.

I just noticed these pictures are really big and a bit blurry if you click them but you get the idea of what I just described above. It was my opinion that with only one small screw fixing the socket into the handle it was a bit flimsy feeling. This helped.

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/5776/1000853mf8.th.jpg (http://img389.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000853mf8.jpg)
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/6622/1000852xh0.th.jpg (http://img389.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000852xh0.jpg)

[tinfoilhelmet]

i countersink a screw on the other side of the glass eye as well.
on my heavy gauge sinktube graflex, the beertab rivet will also be a screw.
this sinktube graflex is all one piece along it's length, by the way....