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grw
03-21-2006, 02:12 AM
This is my first post and first custom saber - so forgive me if I ask any stupid questions.

I have an LED hooked up to a Corbin's driver and sound module.
The sound module works fine, clash, power up/down and motion. It all runs through the switch on the sound module.

When I turn it on, the LED ramps up and then turns off. When I turn it off, the LED turns on and ramps down. The sound will work fine between these two actions, but the LED is not on.

I was wondering if anyone has had this problem or know what is causing it. Could I have blown something on the board? The LED stays on when not connected to the driver and I'm using fresh batteries.

Thanks in advance.

grw

xwingband
03-21-2006, 06:41 AM
How is it wired?

That sounds like how Corbin's board act when you have a push button hooked up to it...

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?

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LAN-ED-TUL
03-21-2006, 07:56 AM
sounds like a on/off instead of a momentary switch causin it.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Strydur
03-21-2006, 09:04 AM
Pictures...we need pictures[8D]

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

grw
03-21-2006, 03:01 PM
It was wired according to the diagram in this topic:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=366

I am going to rewire it again in case something went iffy. If it still doesn't work, I'll take a photo and post it. I was using the switch that comes with the sound module (a grey rubberised switch) i.e. not the MHS one.

What kind of switch is that?

Umi_Ryuzuki
03-21-2006, 03:08 PM
It seems to me that the driver board is very sensitive.
If you hold the button/contact too long, it seems to
read that as pushing the button twice.

I can just brush the two wire leads from the board across each other and the the light will do what you are describing. Just the quickest touch and the light should ramp up and stay on.

It might also be due to low battery voltage. I haven't charged that pack for almost 6 months.[:D]
Maybe I will do some more tests.[|)]

_________________________

Nyow!
/
=^o^=

xwingband
03-21-2006, 03:13 PM
Yeah, the low battery power is a possibility too. The old ones were normally open as the default and did wacky things as the power got low. I don't remember it being quite like that, but maybe the hasbro is sucking enough power to make it worse.[:(]

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?

Want to roleplay in the SW universe? Visit:
http://www.dewbackwing.com/dewbacks/files/pinupbanner.jpg (www.dewbackwing.com)</center>

grw
03-21-2006, 03:57 PM
I resoldered it and it is doing the same thing. I haven't had the thing on more than 1 minute at a time. Maybe it is the batteries. They are cheap ones - 1.5V AA alkalines. Maybe I should try hooking up 6 AA 1.2V rechargeables. I have quote a few and they have higher amperage. I might get a bit of brightness and longevity.

Strydur
03-21-2006, 08:50 PM
What Umi said would be my guess

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

grw
03-21-2006, 09:32 PM
Is there anyway to resolve the sensitivity of the board (if that is actually the problem)?

I will try to run my own test where I don't have the wire soldered onto the Corbin board and just try to "brush" across it to fire it up.

Also, I noticed somewhere it mentioned that the LED brighter if it is run through the Corbin driver rather than direct to LED. Is this true? Sorry, don't know the thread.

xwingband
03-21-2006, 09:43 PM
Yes, because corbin's board alternates the amperage faster than your eye can see. The great part is it only consumes the average of the two amperages for power.[:)]

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?

Want to roleplay in the SW universe? Visit:
http://www.dewbackwing.com/dewbacks/files/pinupbanner.jpg (www.dewbackwing.com)</center>

Strydur
03-21-2006, 10:00 PM
I am not sure if it is brighter but it uses less battery power.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

grw
03-21-2006, 10:43 PM
Ok - so the moral of the story is that I need to fix my driver problem.

I will take a photo tonight and post it. I will be trying to hookup another 1 or 2 AAs onto it using rechargeables, in case the problem is the batteries.

Hopefully it will still fit in the hilt!

Umi_Ryuzuki
03-21-2006, 11:53 PM
Well with four freshly charged batteries, I can still duplicat the behavior you are describing.

As it turns out, it does not matter how long the contacts stay closed(the button or switch held down). Once the contact is open(button released)the circuit performs an action,turning on the LED, or turning it off.

My hypothesis at this point, is that if the switch does not open cleanly, then the circuit will falter, and the LED will ramp up and back down. If you are using a soft touch switch, like the one out of a hasbro saber, it has a "floaty" plastic contact with a coated conducting surface. If the contact comes away from the pcb contacts at an angle, it may not be coming off the contacts quickly or cleanly enough. And there by futzing the circuit to the LED.

Try hooking up a quality switch and see if that helps.
I think it will.[8D]

_________________________

Nyow!
/
=^o^=

grw
03-22-2006, 06:26 AM
Ok - right now I am giving up for the moment on the Corbin's driver. Tried a new switch and that didn't work. Same problem. Just seems to be a bit of pain more than anything. I will see how I go with sound only.

LAN-ED-TUL
03-22-2006, 09:46 AM
it may be the board itself then.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

grw
03-22-2006, 02:57 PM
Finally - I got it to work. I noticed on the switch circuit on the Corbin's board that there was a small nick across it, it was enough to break the circuit. I bridged it with a small amount of solder and now it works. Thanks for all your pointers everyone.

james3
03-22-2006, 03:30 PM
Awsome troubleshooting dude, that's one of those nightmare deals that you just want to pull all your hair out.

"Only a Sith deals in absolutes. I will do what I must." - Obi-Wan Kenobi

LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 02:02 AM
good goin dude. nice catch. how much hair ya got left? after yanking it out over this. lol

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

grw
03-23-2006, 05:00 PM
I was just glad, it wasn't because I'd fried anything. I'm in the process of ty to decide what the saber is going to look like. Once finished I will post a picture on the appropriate thread.

LAN-ED-TUL
03-23-2006, 07:50 PM
i would be too. glad that is. knowing ya didnt fry it. like that wierd thing that happened on my great saber. it worked just fine. got tims momentary switch in, installed it, worked fine. then sound quit, then worked, then quit, after a couple of teardowns, still wouldnt get sound, all the while the red led worked just fine. then i left it on shelf. went back 2 hours later and nothing at all.yanked it apart again. tested led, it was fried too. i have no idea what happened. but i was able to locate and buy the replacement stuff needed to rebuild it again. and i am using a hasbro 8 buck saber board. weird stuff, man.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Corbin_Das
03-28-2006, 12:18 AM
Hi all
I'm relatively new to this board believe it or not. I just read this thread about the trouble experienced with one of my drivers. I'm sorry I didn't see this thread earlier. A cut circuit would definitely cause problems. I'm glad to hear it wasn't fried. I'm sure that I've fried more of my boards than anyone else on the planet, and I can tell you.......a fried board isn't good for much.
One of the most common problems I hear is people experiencing trouble when their saber is assembled, but not when it's apart. The culprit almost always turns out to be the C&L pins shorting out against the inside of the hilt body. Or using solid core wires that can only be bent so many times before breaking inside their insulation.


Corbin

Corbin@CorbinsComponents.com

LAN-ED-TUL
03-29-2006, 10:20 PM
welcome back Corbin, long time no see!

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...