Finally building my first LED saber.

[MaverickJsmith]

Hey folks. I'm finally making my first LED saber. It will have an Ultrasound V2 and a Royal Blue LED. This saber isn't an MHS saber, It's an older saber I got some years ago, in the EL era of lightsabers (insert spooky sounds in the backround). So I'm converting this saber to LED.

I have a few questions.

I've combed the forums for a very long time, absorbing all the endless knowledge that is contained therein. Now, I need some opinions.

What LED type should I go with? Lux III? K2? P4 with a filter? Is a Lux V worth it?

I've noticed that the lens holders and maybe the lenses as well are out of stock. Where could I find them?

I need something to mount the speaker in. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make a speaker mount?

The inner diameter of this saber is about 1 1/8th inches. To my understanding, the AAA battery holder will fit, is that correct?

Every bit of info you guys can give me will help a lot. Thanks for listening guys 8)

Maverick 8)

[Sairon]

I would go with lux 5 cause a ultra v2 can handle the power. and how about a render of your saber.:)

[MaverickJsmith]

:shock: such a fast response! I accidentally hit enter and posted this too soon before I was done. And when I post, there's already a reply :shock:

Lux V huh? Hmm. I have an Ultra Anakin Ep III and at night I can barely see sometimes its so bright @_@ All I can see is the blade pretty much.

As for saber renders, I already have them. Just a matter of getting them up :wink:

Maverick 8)

[Sairon]

alright! anyways yes a lux 5 is worth it and I would go with a four aa or rechargble, but doesn't the people who made ultra board say that you shouldn't keep batteries in long because it slowly drains? I personly would go 4aa first and if you casn go rechargeable.

[MaverickJsmith]

Well rechargable might be doable. I have a pommel being made by a certain someone that's a replica of the original pommel for this saber, one that can hold an MPS insert. So I could use the insert that will hold a recharge port and simply use it as a kill switch for when I'm not using the saber.

I don't know about the whole rechargeable thing. I don't know much about it. Plus I've never wired anything more complex than wire A goes to pad B. Plus I'd have to make a speaker mount that will allow the wires to go through it.

It gets more and more complex as it comes together @.@

Maverick 8)

[Sairon]

okay. and lenses are in stock

[eastern57]

alright! anyways yes a lux 5 is worth it and I would go with a four aa or rechargble, but doesn't the people who made ultra board say that you shouldn't keep batteries in long because it slowly drains? I personly would go 4aa first and if you casn go rechargeable.

That's easily fixed with the recharge port and kill-switch.

I would have to differ in my opinion on LEDs: I prefer Seoul P4s. The brightness difference is marginal, but the power consumption is considerably less. A two pack of Li-Ion 14500s should be nice & small AND offer a respectable run time (roughly +/- 1.5 hrs, depending on frequency of use).

The hard part with converting EL to LED is fabricating a solid heatsink mount and getting the optics to play nice. If the inner diameter is only 1 1/8", it could also raise a few arse-pains. How long is the inside? How much space do you have to work with overall?


EDIT: doh you guys are quick. Maverick, the best way to be MORE comfortable with electronics and wiring - is to [I]just do it!

Yes, you'll make mistakes, yes, you'll burn the crap outta yer fingies, and yes there's a possibility you might not be pleased with the result... but it's your first. Almost everyone that's made their own saber hilt isn't 100% pleased with their first... :)

[MaverickJsmith]

Ah okay. Gonna be tight then. Halloween is coming up :wink:

I'll work on some renders of my saber.

Maverick 8)

[Sairon]

it also depends how bright you want it. if a lux three is bright then a p4 with a lee filter will be a bit lighter, a k2 more, and a lux 5 blasts them all away if you are using blue.

[eastern57]

it also depends how bright you want it. if a lux three is bright then a p4 with a lee filter will be a bit lighter, a k2 more, and a lux 5 blasts them all away if you are using blue.

I'm talking about the colored P4s - the white with filters doesn't really do it for me. But yes, LuxV blues are wicked bright 8)

[MaverickJsmith]

I'm having a new bladesholder made for it. So that's covered.

Also, I mispoke earlier about the ID of the saber. It's actually 1.240" in diameter or thereabouts. My calipers aren't designed to measure tubes I believe.

As for internal space *takes a fast measurement* It appears I have about just under 6 1/8th inches inside to work with. :shock: that's not a lot, considering the Ultrasound is 2 inches long. Plus battery pack, speaker in it's mount :shock: dear god I might have a problem.

Maverick :shock:

[Sairon]

what is the lumen count of a blue p4 cause that is the color maverik wants.

[eastern57]

what is the lumen count of a blue p4 cause that is the color maverik wants.

not as much as a LuxV, I'm guessing.

6" x 1.24" is plenty to fit two AA-sized 14500s and an ultrasound... unless the LED and stuff has to fit in there also...

and Sairon, I swear I'm not following you around the forums tonight - you just raise good counterpoints :)

[Sairon]

it's okay I wasn't planing on you doing that.:)

[MaverickJsmith]

I have an interesting problem with this project. When I first got this saber, it had a fantastic little green LED that lit up when you turned the saber on.

I have since lost that LED but that's not my problem. I'm going to replace the LED, and I want it to do the same thing as it did before. However, here's the interesting part.

Since I'm going to be using my Ultrasound V2 in this saber, I can't have the led simply running off the switch, because it'll be momentary. I also can't have it running off groung completing the LED's circuit, because the circuit is always "on" as the board sleeps. So the only option I see is to run the little LED off the main LED's circuit. Which is fine, throw a resistor in and it'll be fine. The problem is, if I run the main LED in flicker mode, the little led will flicker as well. So, I have to find a solution to rectify the current running to the little LED to make it not flicker. The obvious one is to always run the main LED in non-flicker mode. But why would I do that? It's a feature on this board, so why not use it?

Any suggestions? Do I need a simple rectifier? Or will just a resistor do it?

Maverick 8)

P.S. Saber renders coming, I'm working on them as I speak.

[MaverickJsmith]

Wow, this thread was going strong and then died. No opinions besides LEDs? You folks must have more to say :shock:

Anywho, I just got an order finalized for some parts I need for my saber. More news when I get it.

And now for a question. I've heard some opinions, and now I want to hear from you guys.

Rechargeable, is it worth all the set up? It's a fair ammount of wiring, and I've only wired simple circuits before.

Opinions opinions!

Maverick 8)

[swear000]

recharge depends on how often you plan on using your saber. I like the concept and have put recharge ports in the end caps of my two main sabers. I may just use regular batteries in the others because they will likely not be used as much or can be upgraded to rechargeable later. Li-Ion rechargeable are probably the best option. Only thing is that the packs will not fit in smaller diameter hilts (namely the 1.25").

With the LED, you could probably run the accent led directly from the battery rather than the driver board that will power the luxeon.

[Sairon]

For batteries I'd go reachargble because in the long run it will save a lot of money.:) and I'm not the smartest person in the world and some electronic things I haven't learn't yet so that's whay I didn't post earlier, I just didn't know the answer.

[MaverickJsmith]

Well the thing about running the accent led is ill be using my ultrasound v2 in this saber. So if I run it off the battery, as the board sleeps the led will be dim, and drain the batteries more. But when I turn the saber on it will be full brightness.

Am I correct?

Oh and, what gauge wire should I use?

Maverick 8)

[eastern57]

Well the thing about running the accent led is ill be using my ultrasound v2 in this saber. So if I run it off the battery, as the board sleeps the led will be dim, and drain the batteries more. But when I turn the saber on it will be full brightness.


I'm not entirely sure what you're saying with this one. I thought you were going to run it off the main LED pad w/resistor. Are you saying you want to run the accent LED in parallel with the sound board? If that's the case, a recharge port world be almost necessary...

[MaverickJsmith]

Well swear said I might try running it off the battery. I took that to mean wire the accent led in series with the battery to the sound board.

As for parallel, I hadn't even considered that, please tell me more.

Maverick 8)

[swear000]

wire between 26-18 gauge I would think. Smaller the gauge number, the fatter the wire if I remember correctly. CF wiring guide may have some clues. I don't have a CF yet so I haven't looked into it extensively. I would most likely lean toward 18 since I have a tendency to use the fattest wire I can get away with.

Yes, the LED will drain the battery unless you put in a very small switch or another driver board. I am pretty sure the CF can be used to drive accent LEDs. Did you see Mad Hatters "CF4 10W with the Works - Video + Tons o' Pics"? It looks like he used a custom logic circuit to drive the accent LEDs. CF on one side of the battery pack and logic circuit on the other. There is probably a way of creating a simplified version of the circuit for powering your LED.

I have been Googling circuit schematics for the past several weeks looking for one that I can use for a PLI. There may be one to fit your particular application, I just haven't stumbled across it yet.

[MaverickJsmith]

I'm using an Ultrasound V2 lol

Maverick 8)

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Sorry to be late to the dance! I'd go ahead with a lux III because the US can overdrive it anyways (it'll be really bright) As far as batteries go, It depends upon how accessible the battery pack will be in your hilt. If you just have to unscrew the pommel and there it is, then use alkalines or Li-Ion rechargeables. If it is in the middle of your 6" section, then use a recharge port setup. 22-24 gage wire will work just fine. P.S.- I love converting old El sabers!!!!!!!!;)

[MaverickJsmith]

Thanks for chiming in man :D

Yeah, the battery pack will be towards the pommel. I'll be using the AAA battery pack since my saber has an ID of around 1.240".

...Wait, could I use a AA pack? Will it fit?

As for my little accent led I could always run it off the Luxeon's circuit. Though I'd need a fat resistor. I just went on a spree today getting things I'll need. I hit radio shack and got my little green led. These things run off 2.1 volts dc and 25 milliamps. That's just a wee bit less than 1500 milliamps. And if I change my main led type in my ultrasound's configuration, I'll fry the little thing. So I'm not sure what to do.

Maverick 8)

EDIT: The shop only has 4 quick connectors left, and I need 5 oh no! Anyone know where I could get some?

[eastern57]

If it's a green LED you need, stand by. I prefer 26-28 guage wires, they're fine for batteries and LEDs - I like them because they take up almost no room. As for batteries, if you're considering a recharge port, you may as well consider Li-Ions . ;)

[MaverickJsmith]

Oh, LOL no, my accent LED is green. The main led will be royal blue :wink:

And the shop has 1 quick connecter less than i need @_@

Maverick @_@

[swear000]

I just remembered that the Li-ion packs generally come with a PCB. That circuit has a LVC (low voltage cutoff) and should, in theory, cut off the power to the LED when the battery voltage drops below a certain point.

These connectors are another good option:
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/connectors.htm

I use ones called micro deans but since sabers can have extensive wiring, I direct connect wherever I can. I will try the 26 gauge wire since making more room in the hilt seems like a good idea.

[MaverickJsmith]

I'm starting small right now. I have a small budget, so no rechargeable setup right now, maybe in the future.

I simply want to get this done for Holloween :wink:

Maverick 8)

P.S. Got everything ordered! Next week I'll have everything I need to make this saber light up minus the ultrasound and bladeholder.

[Sairon]

the 4 aa pack that is made for mhs should fit in that space. just make shure it is the one that is made for mhs. I would go aa because of the longer run time

[MaverickJsmith]

Well I can always buy a AA pack later. I am making this thing a quick connector monster :wink: Modular means easier upgrades.

Maverick 8)

P.S. My package from TCSS shipped today, should have it Monday I'm guessing.

[MaverickJsmith]

Well, I'm waiting on some final plans for some parts I'm having made for this saber. If I'm lucky I'll get them in time for holloween.

Also my package from TCSS didn't come today like I was expecting. I was looking forward to starting to wire up my saber. Oh well, it'll come tommorow, USPS has never failed me :D

Maverick 8)

[Lord Dottore Matto]

MTFBY on that USPS thing Mav!:p

[MaverickJsmith]

Look what arrived today :D

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/3662/1014081549a1nu4.jpg

I can start working on figuring out the wiring for my saber now. I have one question.

I notice the lens is supposed to snap into the lens holder, but it wont fit. Do I just let the lens sit on top of the lens holder or do I have to shave it down? I'm confused.

Maverick :D

[swear000]

it pressure fits but you can cut notches in it to make it fit better. Search is your friend.

[eastern57]

I notice the lens is supposed to snap into the lens holder, but it wont fit. Do I just let the lens sit on top of the lens holder or do I have to shave it down? I'm confused.

AW, Rookie! :mrgreen: If this is a joke, I'm LMFAO... if it isn't, I'm still LMFAO... fo shame ;) :D

[MaverickJsmith]

This thread is about making my first saber. For shame on you easter :roll: Of course I'm a rookie.

I say I noticed they snap into place because the lens holder has little one way tabs that look like they're stupposed to hold the lens.

But what do I know, I'm a rookie right? :wink:

Maverick 8)

P.S. On a side note, wiring is interesting when it involves math.

[eastern57]

oh come on, I'm just giving you a little heat - don't you have big brothers? ;)

but good on you for firing right back! LOL! 8)

[MaverickJsmith]

What because I'm a rookie you think I won't jab back? :wink:

Back to a little seriousness. I'm wiring my little accent LED up with the Luxeon I'll be running. But my electrical math is a little rusty. The little led I'll be using runs off 2.1v dc and 25ma. I'll be using a lux 3 and the Ultrasound V2 specs says it drives those at 4.5v.

Now, I'm a little confused at which voltage to figure the resistance on. 4.5v, Or 2.4v, which is after the voltage of 2.1 for the little led.

I seek the endless wisdom of these forums :D

Maverick 8)

[eastern57]

It needs around (+/-) 2.1v to run. It will handle more, you just need a larger resistor. And honestly, 15, 20, 25mA... doesn't really matter. If you use the resistor chart, you'll be fine... so 150ohm 1/4w yeah, that's fine.

[MaverickJsmith]

Well, I didn't expect a "use this it'll be fine."

But really, how do I figure the resistance. I'll either be using an 85 ohm resistor or a 100 ohm resistor. If I'm supposed to figure it off the 4.5v, that's a 180 ohms.

Maverick

P.S. I like to get things done as correct as possible, so I'm a little naggy :D

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

Someone just asked this question about lenses, so I'll copy and paste the answer I gave them.


The 5 degree lens will work. If you look closely at the lens holder, you can see that there are little lips on the tabs that the lens snaps in to. The 5 degree lens is just a hair too thick to snap into those lips. You just have to file the rim of the lens down a bit, where it's too thick, and it will fit in there just fine.

[MaverickJsmith]

Thanks a bunch obi-dar :D

Now I won't have to worry if it will all fit into my custom blade holder.

Maverick :D

[MaverickJsmith]

Small update.

I'll be getting my parts this week, minus the Ultrasound V2. No sound for my saber for Holloween.

I'm getting the custom parts for this saber made by none other than Arm himself :mrgreen: He's making a custom bladeholder and pommel for me.

I'm very excited :D It's the first time I've been working with him and I am very pleased.

This week will be fun, my saber will light up at least.

Maverick 8)

[MaverickJsmith]

Yet another update (ignores triple post alarms /smash)

My parts from Arm shipped, should have them Friday if I'm lucky :mrgreen:

Should probably also tell you guys what the saber is.

*pause*

...It's a Viper Defender from Lightech Industries. Yes, the saber is the same kind of saber a fellow member is converting. Should have mentioned it ages ago when I started this thread. Well now you know...:D

Will post renders now that I've let the cat out of the bag (get back here! :wink:)

Maverick 8)

[Er Dan Gill]

Hurry up Maverick, because:


















http://www.ls1.com/forums/images/smilies/gotpics.gif
Ha ha just kidding:D

[Phiily Manyaan]

Small update.

I'll be getting my parts this week, minus the Ultrasound V2. No sound for my saber for Holloween.

I'm getting the custom parts for this saber made by none other than Arm himself :mrgreen: He's making a custom bladeholder and pommel for me.

I'm very excited :D It's the first time I've been working with him and I am very pleased.

This week will be fun, my saber will light up at least.

Maverick 8)

Just got my control box from Arm, and it was my first from him and it is awesome and he is awesome. Kept me posted throughout the entire project and I see you're getting yours soon, you'll be more than happy with the results I'm sure!

[MaverickJsmith]

Oh wow, thanks Phiily :mrgreen:

I know Arm is fantastic. I'm all giddy just thinking about the parts arriving.

And now, for a little treat.

Here she is folks. These renders are Pretty much and exact digital copy of the real thing. Digital calipers are the best tool ever.

Here she is :D
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/9439/viperdefendermarkiiprotwq6.png

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/9093/viperdefendermarkiiprotmi8.png

Not one, but two beauty shots!
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/3892/viperdefendermarkiiprothu1.png

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/1037/viperdefendermarkiiprotnj4.png

Here's a closeup of the pommel
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4114/viperdefendermarkiiprotlh7.png

What do you all think? I had Arm make a replica of the pommel using the measurements from this model. It's going to hold MPS Insert 1. The bladeholder is an exact replica as well externally. The inside of course will hold the 1 inch blade and hold the LED and heatsink. Arm also made a custom speaker holder for me, woot!

An odd thing is the measurements for the pommel are correct, but the model is .100 inches longer. I checked all the measurements and they all match. Go fig.

Well, with a little luck, Friday everything will arrive. If not, Saturday. As you all know, I won't have my Ultrasound V2.0 for this by Halloween. So, until it arrives I'll be running this saber off a simple resistor setup. Quick connecters galore, I plan for change 8)

Have at it folks, opinions!

Maverick 8)

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Mav, Mav, Mav...Thats Awesome! 5 star design man!;)

[MaverickJsmith]

I can't take credit for the design of the saber itself. I really wish I could it's a very unique design. But I thank you greatly for your kind words Matto :mrgreen:

I will enjoy this saber again after so many years! Once again an old friend and I shall ride together.

Maverick 8)

[LordBane21]

WOW I just paused when I saw this. It's amazing!!! I had to double take. :)

[MaverickJsmith]

Look what arrived in the mail folks!
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/8530/1024081306a1fz4.jpg

The goods
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/848/1024081336a1wd9.jpg

New bladeholder, headsink, pommel, and speaker holder.

With this my saber shall be alive once more!

MWUAHAHAHHAHAHAH!

Maverick :twisted:

[Tom Starkiller]

What's a "headsink"? :P

Hopefully there'll be pictures of the saber soon. :P

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Mav, you blacked out your info, but left AoF's info there!:mrgreen: I'm gonna send him a bunch of junkmail now! Muuuuahahahahhahha!:twisted:

[MaverickJsmith]

For sooth Matto you wouldn't dare. You wouldn't be able to get any of his fantastic work if you did :wink:

Well as of Friday night (or Saturday morning, nearly 2 am), this saber came to life once more. There were a few problems, mainly due to me being super rusty at soldering, but it lives for now. There was a casualty however. The original switch died while I was attempting to reinstall it into the saber. So I had no switch to use but the momentary one I bought for my Ultrasound. So, now it only turns on while the button is held down. And that thing is painful to hold while swinging this thing around, you have to try to press so hard to keep it on while flailing it about.

I took a vid for you guys, but the quality is horrible. I took it with my cellphone. I hope you guys enjoy, because you better after the loops I had to jump through to convert it so I could upload it.

Enjoy
http://s442.photobucket.com/albums/qq145/MaverickJsmith/?action=view&current=MaverickssaberInitial.flv

Well, she'll light up for Halloween. I need a decent camera and not my cellphone.

Maverick 8)

[Fe'Ral]

Damn it Maverick...now I'm going to HAVE to put up a video of the one I just finished. ;)

[Tom Starkiller]

Nice one Mav.

[Arm on Fire]

Looking good Mav, cant wait to see it with the Ultraboard :)

[MaverickJsmith]

Neither can I :twisted:

MWUAHAHAHHAH!

Maverick :twisted:

[Jedi-Loreen]

Nice work.

But I also want to know what a "headsink" is. :wink:



I did a Lux V conversion to one of these last year.

A previous owner had put a brass insert in as the blade holder, giving it a different look, but that sucker had some weight when it was still an EL saber.

The new owner's son had machined the ID of the insert down to an inch, which got rid of a bit of the weight.

Unfortunately, he also drilled and tapped 3 holes for screws for the heat sink to rest on, but he did it crookedly, and not in an asthetically pleasing way that I thought ruined the lines and flow of the saber a bit. I wish he had left that up to me.

Those holes were also a little too low, and so I could not quite fit the 6AA holder into the saber because of that. :roll:

So I ended up running 2 9Vs in parallel to give it a bit more run time.

The accent LED was also broken and the new owner wanted a new one installed just for looks, and to fill the hole, fortunately, they didn't want it to work.

This was for a friend's wife, though I don't know if she really wanted it (she took it in trade for a seamstress job for someone), she does have a sort of Sith costume, but she wanted a blue blade in it, which looks sort of purplish, compared to my Lux III royal blue. :p

[MaverickJsmith]

Yeah that little green led is a (insert b-word here) to put in. I found the same led holders that was originally used for this saber at radio shack. I'm glad they come in a pack of five because it took destroying three of them before I figured out how you're supposed to put it in with the led.

And I'll be doing it again when my Ultrasound arrives :roll: (hopefully this Friday if I'm lucky :D)

Maverick 8)

Oh, and just for you loreen.

Headsink: Heatsink spelled incorrectly by MaverickJsmith when he's overexcited.

[Er Dan Gill]

Looking good Maverick.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/images/smilies/approved.gif

[Jedi-Loreen]

Aww, I was hoping you'd come up with a more creative description of what a "headsink" was. :neutral: I'm a little disappointed.

I knew what it really was. ;)



My friend wanted red accent LED instead of green, that's what was in it when his wife got it.

[MaverickJsmith]

I'm glad you all approve :D

So, do I sound like you all were expecting? :D

Maverick 8)

EDIT: Sorry to disappoint loreen. I'll try to come up with something better next time :wink:

[Tom Starkiller]

So, do I sound like you all were expecting? :D

Not quite feminine enough. :P

[MaverickJsmith]

うるせトムさん。

uruse tomu-san.

Translation: Shut up tom. :wink:

Maverick 8)

[MaverickJsmith]

Small update.

Hey it's Halloween! I rewired my saber over Thursday night. I thought of a way to salvage my latching on off switch that was the original switch for my saber.

Needless to say, plastic fumes are horrid @_@;!

It turned out rewiring it was a good thing, it was bright initially, then dimmed significantly suddenly while I had it on. All is well now, and she's bright.

I have a question now.

I need to buy a blade for her, but I don't know which kind to get. Thick walled blades are very heavy, I've felt one before and it was a beast. Thin walled blades are just as good, just not as heavy. I'm using the blade from my Ultra Anakin EPIII in my saber for the moment, which is a thin walled Ultrablade.

What do you guys think I should get? Pro and cons of either?

I seek your opinions 8)

Maverick 8)

[Malaki Skywalker]

How did you get an Anakin Ultra FX blade to fit a 1" blade holder? How deeps the holder?? :confused:

[MaverickJsmith]

It's actually slightly smaller in diameter than the bladeholder, it'll wobble a bit if you dont tighten the thumbscrew. Though only a little bit. Then it fits fine.

Maverick 8)

[ArkaiHalon]

blade type depends on what you really plan to do with it.

If youplan to duel extensively, and beat the hell out of it (see Novastar, 25k+ hits) then go heavy.

If you are only going for light or occasional dueling, and want brightness as you most important factor, go thin.

OR just get both.

[MaverickJsmith]

That's a thought. I'd like something bright, but not too heavy. I do only duel occasionally.

Thanks for the input Arkai :D

Maverick 8)

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Mav, I hate to say it, but the blade you have is perfect for what you want to do with it!:p

[MaverickJsmith]

Yeah well...It's all beat up. The inside has what I could only describe as stuff in it.

That, and I think I want one that would be 36" when put it into my saber.

I'm a little oldschool when it comes to saber lengths. I grew up on the original trilogy after all :wink:

Maverick 8)

By the way, how was Halloween for everyone?

[Lord Dottore Matto]

K then, you want a 36" Corbin-style show blade!;)

[MaverickJsmith]

Does it take into accound the 2 inches that goes into the blade holder?

Maverick 8)

[MaverickJsmith]

It's here, it's here, IT'S HERE :twisted:

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/1912/1126081908ato3.jpg

:twisted::twisted::twisted:

Maverick :twisted:

[MaverickJsmith]

Yet another of my double posts.

..Wait a triple post? That's a first for me :shock:

My Ultrasound came in on Wednesday. The celebrations were not long lived however.

While wiring the board up, the last thing I soldered was the speaker. While putting the speaker into my speaker holder (thanks again Arm :wink:) the pcb on it broke off.

So, I can't even fire up my Ultrasound to test if it's wired up right (which I'm pretty sure it is) until Monday, when I can order another speaker.

So that promised video of my saber all finished will have to wait, sorry folks.

Oh, and to everyone having problems with their Ultrasounds, just keep up hope! Solutions are developing as we speak to all the problems that have been reported. Your sabers will live! :D

Maverick 8)

[MaverickJsmith]

Hey folks I'm not dead!

Right after I finished my saber, I realized I didn't have a decent camera to shoot a video to show you guys, but I promise one's coming.

Oh yeah, bump. :D

Maverick 8)

[Novastar]

Great to hear...

[MaverickJsmith]

Do I detect something negative, or is it just really late as I post this? @.@;

It's hard to tell you with sometimes Novastar ^^;

Anyway, I think I found a way to make my video, so it should be up soon guys.

Maverick @_@

[DJMoonbass]

interesting conversation. thats a big help. I am building my first LED saber too. Luxeon K2 silver. no sound. Whats the best way i can mount and secure the LED and also the blade. I know how to use a lathe and stuff so its coming from a complete bar of aluminum 40. so any help is awsome!

[MaverickJsmith]

Well, if you're making a fully custom saber, the best way is to make the blade holder a tube bored out for the led, heatsink, and blade. As far as securing the LED in the blade holder, the most common way is to have the led mounted to the heatsink and have the heatsink held in with a set screw. For securing the blade, a thumbscrew or screw of any kind are really the only (and safe) ways.

I'd ask around the forum. There are plently of people who will answer your questions about making a blade holder :D

Good luck on your saber 8)

Maverick 8)

[MaverickJsmith]

Hey folks!

Yep it's me and it's been ages. I have a little treat for you all.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq145/MaverickJsmith/th_Maverickssabervideo.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/albums/qq145/MaverickJsmith/?action=view&current=Maverickssabervideo.flv)

Just made it. Please don't mind the static, I'm working with some new equipment.

Hope you enjoy, and it's good to be back 8)

Maverick 8)

[Jedi-Loreen]

Oh yeah, your old Light Tech conversion, cool. Except for the switch problem.


Did you know you said "what not" 7 times in that vid? You must say that a lot throughout the day, huh? You probably don't even realize it. :p

[MaverickJsmith]

Yes I do xD

By that time I had recorded the video you see there, I had done it 4 times. My video recording program wasn't recording it properly and the sound was horribly out of sync each time. So, by that time I had got it to work, I had said everything you heard there in a different way, in a different order, etc. etc.

And the first time, was the best of course xD

Maverick 8)

[Sairon]

When I first saw the thread I though "What n00b revived ol' buddy Mavericks thread? *prepares flamethrower*" But then Maverick was back with his LightTech hilt (which is still awesome), Welcome back buddy.;)

[MaverickJsmith]

Thanks Sairon :D

Maverick 8)

[MaverickJsmith]

Piccy time!

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5056/0709091254a.jpg (http://img526.imageshack.us/i/0709091254a.jpg/)

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6163/0709091254b.jpg (http://img526.imageshack.us/i/0709091254b.jpg/)

Obligatory beauty shots
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/4629/0709091254c.jpg (http://img526.imageshack.us/i/0709091254c.jpg/)

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/5090/0709091255a.jpg (http://img526.imageshack.us/i/0709091255a.jpg/)

No indoor light with light from outside
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/7176/0709091257a.jpg (http://img526.imageshack.us/i/0709091257a.jpg/)

No indoor light, curtains closed
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/4955/0709091257b.jpg (http://img526.imageshack.us/i/0709091257b.jpg/)

This is her in all her glorly. Her outward appearance will never change. The blade has a dim spot, but I have a Lux III in her at the moment. I'm hoping a K2 will fix the dim spot.

I hope you all like how she turned out 8)

Maverick 8)

[Misael]

Excellent work, man. She is beautiful and elegant. Very clean!

[Kal El Rah]

looking good!

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Very nice...that emitter looks great with the slots lighting up like that...different from the horizontal ones more often seen...I like it!

[Jedi-Loreen]

Now that this is out to 10 pages, I think people are starting to forget that this is an old Lightech Industries EL hilt that he converted.

While he did a good job on the conversion, he did not make the hilt, or have it machined, he bought it that way. (He did have a custom machined blade holder made, though.)

Observe.

http://www.starwars.idv.tw/communication/contribute/Weinziel/defender-225.jpg

[MaverickJsmith]

Yes indeed. It's an old Lightech Industries Viper Defender bought for $240 with shipping. Looking back, it wasn't worth the money I paid. The blade was flimsy and hardly bright at all, even though they used to advertise that their sabers were made to duel with.

I just replaced the blade holder and the pommel. The blade holder was too small, only 3/4" in diameter for the blade socket. Plus it couldn't hold the electronics needed anyway.

I still have that add somewhere. It's funny to see it again.

Also, I did mention it was an old Ligtech hilt :roll:

Maverick 8)

EDIT: Whoops, guess I didn't :roll: