Smoke when Clash Sensor goes off...No LED

[Boomsticksweets]

I wired up a FX Yoda sound board. I haven't removed the board from the casing. I plan on using the battery pack and switch of the FX.

When I hold the batteries in place, the LED won't light, and when the clash sensor goes off, some smoke comes out.

One of the pins I popped out in the removal seems to be inside because when I shake it, I hear it.


I am really getting sick of all these wiring problems...


I am not even sure how to open the casing the board is in....


I am just about completely fed up with this whole saber idea.


Any help?

[ThreeQuadFive]

Smoke?
If it werent for the fact that the LED doesn't light up i'd say FEATURE!:rolleyes:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

What exactly are you trying to do with this soundboard, anyway? Are you converting the Yoda FX to Luxeon, or are you using the electronics in a custom saber?

[Boomsticksweets]

I am using the inner assembly of the yoda in my custom saber. I have made it so it will fit perfectly and I was all ready to put it in when this started.

Mind you, up until I cut the LED strip off, it was working fine.

[Boomsticksweets]

I was wrong. I screwed up the wiring.

It works but for one issue. The lights stays on and the clash sensor won't work.

Any suggestion?

[swear000]

it sounds like you shorted out the board and fried the clash sensor somehow. Clash sensor could probably be cut off and a new one wired in.

[Boomsticksweets]

Are you sure? I just ask because as I mentioned before, I screwed up the wiring so it was a bit of a pain to rewire the setup. If that is the problem, I have no issues with just chopping off the clash sensor. At least I will have power up/down and hum/motion sounds.

Besides, I don't know where to get a clash sensor... ;)

[swear000]

no it is just a theory. It is hard to tell without the board in front of me. Maybe someone has an extra clash sensor in a scraps collection.

[goldsaberwarrior]

it sounds like you fried the sensor somehow. try to re do the sensor wiring. if you don't think it'll work try a new sensor.

[Boomsticksweets]

Ok, I checked one of the wiring bits and it had come apart (purple wire to clash sensor).

Holding the two ends together, the clash sensor works.

Problem is, light is still on....

[swear000]

well, that's good actually because it means that those wires are delivering power to the LED. However, to clarify, you are saying that there is no ramping when turning the light on and off?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I looked through the MR conversions threads and found this:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4758
It may be of some help....

[Boomsticksweets]

Ok, everything works just fine except the LED is on even when the switch is off.

I just need to know how to fix that and I am finally done!!! YAY!!! :D

And Jay, I have already seen that forum and it doesn't help with the current problem. Thank you regardless. :)

Though I do appreciate the help from everyone.

In conclusion.

I need to find out why the LED is always on. It may be a short but I doubt it. HOW DO I FIX IT?

[Boomsticksweets]

I separated the negative leads coming off the boards. When touched to the negative lead coming from the LED, each one lights up the LED.....

Hmm....

Short on board maybe?

[swear000]

negative? hrm...wonder if + and - are reversed...

[Boomsticksweets]

I bypassed the notion of using the board to power the LED.

I decided to take ArmOnFire's fury saber wiring diagram and use it for the wiring. It would appear that not enough power is getting to the speaker and the switch for the board doesn't seem to do anything, though that may be related to the speaker issue.

Any ideas?