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Mi Gin Gonn
03-18-2006, 08:22 PM
does anybody have an exact schematic for soldering a 3-watt LED to a Hasbro board? havin' trouble here....

"Chaka, call off Dawson, will ya?!"

xwingband
03-18-2006, 08:25 PM
Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) It's there...

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Firebird21
03-18-2006, 08:30 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) It's there...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


xwingband, I think you should use this...
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_rtfm.gif

It's more....


Colorful...
And heart felt. lol

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Mi Gin Gonn
03-18-2006, 08:30 PM
sorry, xwing, it ain't there.

i need a schematic!

firebird, let's keep this civil, would ya?

"Chaka, call off Dawson, will ya?!"

xwingband
03-18-2006, 08:32 PM
It is there... aptly named Hasbro sound module schematics under Cutaway views and wiring schematics...

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Firebird21
03-18-2006, 08:33 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mi Gin Gonn

sorry, xwing, it ain't there.

i need a schematic!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

What, exactly is your question/problem? Maybe we can talk you through it...

I’m getting the feeling that I know what you might need, but I want to be sure.

This is what xwing is trying to show you...
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/scripts/corbinsboardhasbro.jpg


And this...
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/Do-Clo/Hasbro1.jpg
With out the Micro-Puck

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Firebird21
03-18-2006, 08:39 PM
What saber are you using? Because mine (from the Obi-Wan w/ The Force) looks nothing like that...

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xwingband
03-18-2006, 08:51 PM
That's Corbin's board. The one under the Hasbro topic had ones for using just the board itself. The board that Tim sold that was in the generic sabers and a few others.

The last one in the topic is the most common one and doesn't matter for which hasbro you have because they all have pretty much the same connection. The negative lamp wire goes to the LED and positive can either y-connect with the power and sound or do two seperate positives (one to the sound and one to the LED).

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Do-Clo
03-18-2006, 08:55 PM
This should help remember to install a resistor between the led and the positive lead. (This is in the thread index)

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/ProdImages/soundmodule.jpg

Postitive input = Hook directly to positive on battery pack
Negative input = Hook directly to negative on battery pack
Negative output = Switched output to LED or could be used to trigger a relay in a EL setup

The positive for the LED/EL setup would come straight from the battery

Using the negative output on the sound module like this will have a flash on startup/shutdown and a flash on clash. What I mean by this is the LED will blink on and off fast for a few seconds during these times.



Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

Mi Gin Gonn
03-18-2006, 09:09 PM
allright, guys, i think i got it now. muchos gracias for the help.

"Chaka, call off Dawson, will ya?!"

Darth Tollo
08-19-2007, 04:58 PM
So if I am seeing this right. I can use a Micro puck or just a resistor to hook this up? I want to use this on a white K@ so do I need 2 or 4 batteries?

goldsaberwarrior
08-19-2007, 05:05 PM
who dusted this off

vortextwist
08-19-2007, 05:08 PM
evidently someone that needed help. Hopefully somebody with experience can help.

Jedi Ranger
08-19-2007, 05:46 PM
Yes, a resistor will do fine in place of the micropuck, but be aware, you will get very limited voltage to the LED unless you use a Boostpuck.

I believe that the max voltage for the Hasbro boards is 3v. So 2 alkaline batteries. Someone here may have tested with hight voltage - I have not.

Stinky Bantha
08-19-2007, 05:58 PM
So if I am seeing this right. I can use a Micro puck or just a resistor to hook this up? I want to use this on a white K@ so do I need 2 or 4 batteries?

Depending on your board you can only use a certain amount of batteries. I think the max voltage for the 2 battery versions is 4.5 (overdriving the board obviously) and the max I've used with a 3 battery one (the newer obi-wan and vader springloaded ones) is 6v. I can't remember if that's right on the 2 battery ones, so you should check out the Hasbro sound board thread in this section.

Also, the hasbro board won't put out near enough current to drive the K2. If you've already got the LED I'd suggest using a 2-switch setup with the LED and the board running parallel. If you haven't got it yet, a LuxIII would be a good choice, since it'll put out about the same light as an underdriven K2.

LAN-ED-TUL
08-21-2007, 05:33 AM
the hasbro boards will pretty much run most if not all the L3 leds.

at least all my hasbro boards i used run a lux 3 with no problems, and no resistors.

hookin up a corbin board i havent done so i cant say on that.

Darth Tollo
08-21-2007, 11:29 AM
the hasbro boards will pretty much run most if not all the L3 leds.

at least all my hasbro boards i used run a lux 3 with no problems, and no resistors.

hookin up a corbin board i havent done so i cant say on that.

So you have done the hasbro board with no driver and no resistor and have been fine, as long as a lux III is used? Did you hook it up like the diagram?

LAN-ED-TUL
08-22-2007, 07:29 AM
well when you yank one out, im refering to the ones we all used before, dont know on any newer versions, the leads that went to the light, go to the led.

the toys switch gets replaced with a better momentary switch. and thats pretty much it. the board is a driver, so no resistor is needed for a lux3 led.

i have run red/orange, blue, and red on a hasbro board myself.

theres one diagram in the hasbro section that shows this simple setup.