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ukjuggler
10-03-2008, 09:24 PM
Hi guys!

If theres already an answer somewhere then apologies, I've missed it/couldn't find it.

I have a Graflex original hilt with an LED adapter fitted. Any ideas on what switch to use with the seriously limited space untder the red button please? Push on/off ideally. You can see the saber in question, well part of it, in the link below. Along with my other non-blade Graflex.

I do have a replacement button housing and red button that came with the adapter kit and might be able to cut the button itslf a bit but I don't have the equipment for accurate machining any more.

I've seen the red button with built in switch that the Graflex Shop have but he's out of stock of those and will be redesigning it which could take some months unfortunately.

Sounds like thats exactly the unit I need tho.

Any ideas please?
Iain

My sabers
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l8/ukjuggler/Sabers/?action=view&current=d79d5d67.pbw

X
10-03-2008, 09:38 PM
you can get the graflexshops.com switch http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4095&highlight=Graflex+switch

ukjuggler
10-03-2008, 09:56 PM
Yeh, thats the one I've seen I think but its out of stock. And as he's redesigning it, it won't be available again for quite a while.

Iain

B5813
10-03-2008, 10:01 PM
That switch isn't preassembled and I thought it was rather a pain in the a*$ to put together. MadcowGenesis has a nice video of his conversion on youtube. He placed a small momentary switch underneath the bubbles on the clamp. Check out his job. He kind of shows you real quick while taking it apart to show you the crystal chamber. Look real close at the video at 3:04. You'll see a small hole in the Graflex body where the switch in mounted under. It was a simple yet genius way to work the activation switch.

X
10-03-2008, 10:43 PM
I've thought of using a tactile switch with along plunger/stem and glue it to the blade holder under the existing red button. I have some switches like the but haven't tried it yet.

B5813
10-03-2008, 10:51 PM
That was my original intention too but I thought I'd have to surface mount it to a board and then glue the board to the blade holder(so the switch contacts wouldn't come into direct contact with the aluminum holder). Once that was mounted it didn't seem like I'd be able to slide out the blade holder in the future if necessary because the height of the switch mounted on the board wouldn't allow it.

ukjuggler
10-03-2008, 11:39 PM
I've thought of using a tactile switch with along plunger/stem and glue it to the blade holder under the existing red button. I have some switches like the but haven't tried it yet.

Just had a look at tactile switches on google and they come pretty small, might even get on under the original graflex red button maybe?

Are the latching/toggle, push on/push off or just push & hold to stay on (thats momentary right?)?

Iain

X
10-04-2008, 12:05 AM
Yeah push and hold is momentary. The ones I'm using are momentary cuz I'm setting mine up with a CF4. Depends on what if you're using a sound board and if so which one or if you're not running sound at all you want a latching. For latching I'd suggest looking for PCB mountable push button switches like the one found on the Joe Jedi sound board.

eastern57
10-04-2008, 09:04 AM
How are you going to be driving the LED? MR? CF? Corbin? Resistor? Puck?

Depending on what set-up you want, will determine what to use...

Either way it's not very common to use latching switches on a graflex... most everyone uses momentaries. So if you haven't got a LED set-up yet, I recommend something that utilizes a momentary switch.

Jedi-Diah
10-06-2008, 11:07 AM
I would like to use my MR board in my Graflex (for now) because I want the scrolling effect with my Mako blade (haven't gotten it yet). I will probably upgrade to Erv's led strip CF once they are available but for now, I want to just use the MR stuff. They fit nicely inside and with some minor modification, the spring on the bottom of the Graflex base pushes the battery pack to the soundboard module for a good connection. The only problem is the latching switch!

I was wondering if anyone has run across any latching switches that could fit inside the red button bezel and maybe modified/shortened? Maybe a switch like this:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Push-onpush-off-switch-with-red-button--P41.aspx




How are you going to be driving the LED? MR? CF? Corbin? Resistor? Puck?

Depending on what set-up you want, will determine what to use...

Either way it's not very common to use latching switches on a graflex... most everyone uses momentaries. So if you haven't got a LED set-up yet, I recommend something that utilizes a momentary switch.

swear000
10-06-2008, 12:09 PM
that one won't work. I would go with a tactile.

Jedi-Diah
10-06-2008, 12:19 PM
Could you please direct me where to get a tactile **latching** switch.

Or maybe just a small latching switch. One that would sit on the blade holder and be no much taller than the red button. I could cut the push button down (if needed) and glue the top of a red button on it. It just needs to be latching. I believe the old TGS red button switch was latching, no? (DPDT - designed to work with Corbin driver and MR board?)




that one won't work. I would go with a tactile.

xwingband
10-06-2008, 01:09 PM
I'll edit in the switch when I find it, but the one that Corbin got for the replica switches is an APEM switch...

Here they are: http://fr.apem.com/pdf/uk/section_b/17-Serie%20PHAP40-A.pdf

Like the topic that is in the other part of the forum you drill the red button out to take the plunger of the switch. Then you need to have some sort of retaining washer to hold the switch inside.

Oh, for reference a latching tactile doesn't exist...

Jedi-Diah
10-06-2008, 01:18 PM
Thanks X-Wing,

I didn't think a tactile latching switch existed - too small. I knew there are some small push-on, push-off switches though. Thanks for the tip on the Apems.

MoonDragn
10-06-2008, 03:01 PM
Anyone know of any knobs that look like Graflex red button but can be used for a Potentiometer or a rotary switch?

swear000
10-06-2008, 03:44 PM
thanks for the clarification of the APEM switch. Maybe the store could put a handful of those in stock.

Jedi-Diah
10-06-2008, 03:44 PM
You'll probably have to glue the tip of the red button to your rotary switch.


Anyone know of any knobs that look like Graflex red button but can be used for a Potentiometer or a rotary switch?

Lord Maul
10-06-2008, 05:27 PM
thanks for the clarification of the APEM switch. Maybe the store could put a handful of those in stock.

Those switches are notoriously hard to get. I was lucky enough to get two of them from Corbin a year ago. Here's one in a saber.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_0428.jpg

LAN-ED-TUL
10-06-2008, 09:26 PM
i have the TGS switch on one saber, and yeah it was a pain to assemble. glad hes redesigning the darn thing. the pic he shows is a nice neat lookin assembled piece, but thats not what ya got.

X
10-08-2008, 07:57 PM
I forgot that I got a Low profile Latching switch from The Graflex shop. here http://www.graflexshop.com/luxeon.htm

Jedi-Diah
10-23-2008, 12:54 PM
Hey X,

Were you able to fit it on the blade holder under the existing red button?



I forgot that I got a Low profile Latching switch from The Graflex shop. here http://www.graflexshop.com/luxeon.htm

xwingband
10-23-2008, 01:44 PM
He shouldn't... that is only meant to fit with the 3/4" blade holder.

X
10-23-2008, 05:29 PM
Hey X,

Were you able to fit it on the blade holder under the existing red button?

I got that switch before I got my CF4 so I won't use it on the graflex but I can try it to see if it'll fit.

tinfoilhelmet
10-23-2008, 08:12 PM
the dollar store is a good source for small latching switches.
that low profile switch i ordered from graflexshop was unuseable. Mayhaps you got a smaller one.