Unto the Father...

[naashar]

Ok, folk. I've a question, mostly for X-Wing. Hence the title of this thread. No one comes unto the Father save through the Son. [:D]

Is it possible to complete the following tutorial (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=618) ...using parts found here at the store? If so, which ones are suggested?

Ok, that was more than one question. Forgive...

Disclaimer: Any similarity between this and any other thread found in this or any other forum is purely coincedental. So there.


You don't need to see any identification.

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

You can buy the three watt <u>LED</u> and the proper <u>resistor</u> from the store
But the <u>heat sink </u> was a found Item. People are using a variety of found or built up heat sinks. Some, are just aluminum bolts with spaced aluminum washers.
Those are really the only three parts added for the conversion.

The proper resistor value for the 3 watt can be determined here
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11
For a StarO(1watt), it was a 2.2ohm-2watt resistor for the white, and 2.7-2watt for orange-red.(for three 1.5v batteries)



_________________________

Nyow!
/
=^o^=

[naashar]

Good lookin' out, pimpin'! Ok, I got the saber (obviously)..once I order those parts from Tim, "find" myself a heatsink, get a soldering iron and other such tools, how much time should I expect to devote to the project?

You don't need to see any identification.

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

At least the better part of the day. Mostly because you want to give the adhesive time to dry. However, I think I did that in four hours.

Something else to note, I seem to recall that for the 3watt LED, you want to install a "5v reed relay"(Strydur/Corbin) to power the LED. This allows the LED to get the most power, and also prevents it from drawing to much wattage through the PCB. Maybe someone can verify this.

Radio shack has them (Model: 275-232/Catalog #: 275-232 )
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/5025/prs1c2160387w3458fi.jpg
A relay is essentially an electrically operated switch.
When it senses power to the sound board, it will turn on the LED.

I can't find a wiring diagram(honestly there is usually a relay sitting around here some where)I did find this online, it will be similar to the Radio Shack part. Verify the contacts on diagram on the back of the Radio shack package. It should be very similar.
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/3250/reedrelayedit3ie.jpg

The Resistor, can be put between the relay and LED

_________________________

Nyow!
/
=^o^=

[naashar]

I am forever in your debt. If you ever find yourself in the Outer Rim (read: Baltimore, MD), look me up. lol

You don't need to see any identification.

[xwingband]

lol, I like the quote.

If you don't want to make a heatsink I'd look for http://www.aavidthermalloy.com/ their 2296 heatsink is what Corbin likes to use and is specially made for Luxeons. Corbin may have some if you ask and there is always finding a distributor... personally I'm getting my Dad to fill out a sample request (He's a big-wig for Miami-Dade fire).[:D]

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[naashar]

Thanks, X! I really appreciate the info; I really wasn't tryna make one of those, and that site is well laid out and easy to navigate..but I do have one question:

Do I have to come up with a Biblical reference for Corbin, too? [:D]
I will if I gotta, but my whoredom only goes but so far.

You don't need to see any identification.

[xwingband]

The Luxeon trinity of Styrdur, Corbin and Ultra doesn't cover it for biblical references?[:D]

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[naashar]

I cross myself (spectacles, testicles, wallet, and watch) and blink and squint [|)] reverently in the presence of the Luxeon Trinity...ooommm

You don't need to see any identification.