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jedipadawan777
09-21-2008, 07:24 AM
Style 1 hilt
Style 10 blade holder
style 4 pommel
style 5 pommel design
ribbed extension (with black rings)
Lux 3 Kit with seoul p4 color and buckpuck
colored discs (im going to add two purples for the seoul p4)
thick wall polycarbonate 40"
First off does what I wrote make sense for a bright purple blade (even without the corbin style). Second off I have decided to go with the hasbro sound board, but my question is, can I add the sound after building it or does it have to be done during the process of building it (because I want to compare it with and without sound).

Braxus
09-21-2008, 08:10 AM
Style 1 hilt
Style 10 blade holder
style 4 pommel
style 5 pommel design
ribbed extension (with black rings)
Lux 3 Kit with seoul p4 color and buckpuck
colored discs (im going to add two purples for the seoul p4)
thick wall polycarbonate 40"
First off does what I wrote make sense for a bright purple blade (even without the corbin style). Second off I have decided to go with the hasbro sound board, but my question is, can I add the sound after building it or does it have to be done during the process of building it (because I want to compare it with and without sound).

are you building the policarb blade yourself? if so youd need to buy the diffuser Film to put inside the Blade so that the LED lights up the Blade in a Realistic StarWars way. also some people have their own opinions on this subject but... 40 inch ThickWalled might be too long. the thickwalled blade is heavy, much heavier then the Thinwalled MR blades for example, but is Extremely durable. it will take anything. also at 40 inches it gets harder for the LED to light up the Blade the whole length. it will be bright near the bottom and dim near the top. you can eliminate that by going with a shorter blade. i use a 32 inch Corbinstyle thickwalled blade, 2 inches of that goes inside the blade holder. At that length the balance point of my saber w/ Blade attached is about 2 inches above the blade holder on the blade itself (so for a more balanced saber im thinking of downgrading to a 30 inch blade)

Also with the Soundcard..... depending on the sound card (example: CF, Hasbro, MR) you would need certain types of switches. CF for example needs 2 switches w/ atleast one being a Momentary Switch. MR and Hasbro soundcards that use Corbin's LED Driver for the Clash, on/off , shimmer effects need a DPDT switch that would effect the hole youd need on the hilt. but if your just going with the plane Hasbro Card with no driver, a single basic momentary switch that tim sells would work. but down the road if you wanted to upgrade to a different sound card the switch hole might be a problem, so be sure what you want and what you plan to upgrade to in the future when you build it. or you could just buy a new Hilt section with the appropriate modifications when you upgrade :)

Also!! do you want rechargeable batteries or do you want to have to open up your saber everytime and change the batteries out when they go dead? if you want rechargeables youd need to plan for a recharge port. i put mine on the side of my hilt near the switches you can see it on my signature. or you could put it in the pummel. if you dont want to put it in the pummel youd need to have tim machine a hole in the hilt for it.

thats all i can think of at the moment. let me know if that helped :D

Count Malik
09-21-2008, 08:16 AM
Yes you have every thing you need. But first off yes and no (depending on how you wire it. You can always add sound to your saber after it was completed. But it is way easer to just to install the board during saber construction. If I were you (for about 30$ or so..) you can (look on ebay & fx-sabers) and you can get a MR sound board or a MR Jo-Jedi 616 saber (build your own MR saber.) And they have way better and more real sound on them. But what ever you do involving a board of some type. Make sure you make a chassie of sort. (to keep every thing from moving.) Also make sure to have fun!!!:mrgreen:

jedipadawan777
09-21-2008, 08:34 AM
thank you so much both of you were a great help, but what does MR stand for i looked on ebay and nothing came up with the abbreviation

xl97
09-21-2008, 09:38 AM
MR = Master Replica

Jedi-Loreen
07-12-2009, 08:33 AM
What are you going to hold your pommel insert in with? I don't see the MPS clip on your list.

Barmic Rin
07-12-2009, 11:28 AM
What are you going to hold your pommel insert in with? I don't see the MPS clip on your list.

I don't believe I get to do this, but I feel it's a once in a lifetime opportunity:


J-LO, CHECK THE DATES ON THE LAST POST!!!

Jedi-Loreen
07-12-2009, 12:05 PM
Um. :oops:


I didn't check, because I assumed it was a new post because this is a newly formed section.

I didn't know that Maul would move one thread here. :rolleyes:

Lord Maul
07-12-2009, 12:58 PM
LOL, it was the only thread in Saber Sound that was a parts list. That's the only board I cleaned yesterday. Today I'll be doing general hilt building, and I KNOW there are a ton of these there, so this section will get filled up.

Barmic Rin
07-12-2009, 02:10 PM
Lord Maul - Taking out the trash

Darth_DevilGuy
07-13-2009, 01:20 PM
we might want to lock these if they're more than a month or two old, I don't know if it can be set to do that automatically, but even if it was just someone going through it every once in awhile it would be good. Necroing in here would be even more pointless than usual.