Pics of Hasbro Anakin CHB Guts

[Firebird21]

Here are some pics of my Hasbro Anakin Color Changing Blade lightsaber guts.

Just in case you wanted to see them.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Anakin1.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/Anakin2.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/AnakinRed.jpg
http://www.yankeetoys.org/lee/AnakinBlue.jpg

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[Nightwing]

Thanks! I've always wanted to see the inside of my Anakin saber... even though it's about to fall apart. [:(]

Oh well. More sound module glory for my new CSS saber! [:D]

[Firebird21]

It doesn't fit in the Style I hilt...

Just to let you know.

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[Nightwing]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Firebird21

It doesn't fit in the Style I hilt...

Just to let you know.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Aw, crud. I guess I'll have to pursue other options...

[LAN-ED-TUL]

not to mention if you use a luxeon and want clash, you have to hack that sensor off the leds board. not easy but i did it ok.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

[Firebird21]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by LAN-ED-TUL

not to mention if you use a luxeon and want clash, you have to hack that sensor off the leds board. not easy but i did it ok.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I broke it taking it apart. It still works, but it's not secure.

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[LAN-ED-TUL]

i got mine off with out breaking it, but i had used epoxy instead of hotglue to mount it on the edge of mainboard. and i put it in the wrong spot, so i tried to move it and broke the lil cylinder right into, doh, oopsy.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

[Pirate King]

I just used a soldering iron, it pulls right out.

{<font color="black">[[[</font id="black">(((<font color="red">o</font id="red">))<font color="gold">EE</font id="gold">[/<font color="blue">==============</font id="blue">

[LAN-ED-TUL]

thats how i got mine loose from board too oirate.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

[jimster]

yeah im nub, but ive been reading the forums for a few days now and...you can get clash on an led off of a Hasbro? woah, how? ive been working on building a lighsaber with the RGB prolight and im gonna pick up a hasbro soon, but man, if you can direct me on how to get that clash without a corbin, that would be SUPERB.

[xwingband]

Welcome! You can get the flash on clash off at the expense of the clash sound also. Just cut the sensor off and it won't clash at all.[:D] Otherwise it's there to stay unless someone figures out a work around.

lol, it also seems there's an RGB craze now.[:p]

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[Do-Clo]

I am currently working with a color change anakin hasbro and I have noticed that it does not have the led flash with clash, the sound is there but no flashing. The big problem is that is one huge sound board and the only thing that I have found that it will fit into is a 1.5" sink tube. I will post more info as i will more time to work on this project.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

[jimster]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

Welcome! You can get the flash on clash off at the expense of the clash sound also. Just cut the sensor off and it won't clash at all.[:D] Otherwise it's there to stay unless someone figures out a work around.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I mean, I want the light clash LED effect. So the hasbro just does that automatically? even with the resistor attached? And i'm going to be using the 1.5" pipe, so no problem there, Do-Clo.

Also, this is unrelated, but if i wanted to hook up a small motor that would start up with the sound and led, how would do so using a momentary swicth?

[xwingband]

You do not need a resistor if you use a Hasbro board. There is no way to use a resistor without a second switch. It will work just like the bulb on the toy hooked up to the board. It will flash on start/finsh and at clashes. This of course is only on sabers that have the clash on flash feature.

Also you will run into the problem of a momentary vs. latching swithes trying to add a motor. You could use the Obi-wan sabers guts that already has that or you run it off the lamp wire. Wiring it on the lamp wire means you will need two switches.

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[jimster]

oh wow, they already have that? that would be the obi-wan hasbro? I've read that the sounds on the non-specific lightsabers were pretty good, how is that in comparison to the obi-wan?

[xwingband]

The obi-wan does have the clash. If you use it to power the LED it does it automatically. The sounds are okay on the obi-wan certainly never struck me as being any worse.

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[Do-Clo]

You will need a diiferent model of hasbro saber to get the flash on clash. The color change anakin doesn't do that just sound only but for my project it will work fine. I don't know of a way to connect a motor to run on start up. The hasbro feel the force obi-wan saber has a motor that runs on clash so you might look at that, the best sound comes from the darth vader hasbro saber

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

[Asher]

Right this is my first post so; morning everyone!

So far this has proved invaluable in minimising the butchery I've wrought building my first sabre, but I've not managed to protect everything thats fallen into my clumsy paws. As a result, I have an Anakin soundboard that was working fine at the beginning of yesterday evening, right up to the point where my manhandling pulled half the wires out.

The images in this thread were highly useful in working out what goes where, but if someone could clarify that the black wire from the battery does go direct to a pin on the bottom left hand corner of the PCB (as shown in the image) i'd appreciate it.

While I'm being a pestilential noob, How robust are the Hasbro boards? I'm afeared that I may have decimated the sound chip on mine. The LEDs still function, as does the speaker but I don't seem to be able to get any sound out of the board anymore. Is this likely to be indicative of a knacked chip or just hamfisted wiring?

Cheers.

[xwingband]

Most likely a fried chip... Hasbro's like to fry at the drop of a hat.

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[Asher]

...which would be irrepairable. Ho hum. Poxy thing cost me nearly 15 quid too.

Short of training a hamster to play a kazoo and jamming it inside my pommel, I guess I'm back to making silly noises.

Is there any way of making the chips less vulnerable are are they just hypersensitive to shorting?

[james3]

I am starting to think that I am either the luckiest duck in the pond or a complete idiot cause I have read all these horror stories of smoked boards and I have never had a problem so far. I am wondering if it is something that we can figure out so there are not so many burnt boards.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[xwingband]

Well, I'd say industrial heatshrink... I need some because with the exception of my Qui-gon board (an older one) they all fried because wires/connections touched that weren't supposed to.

Due that I think I'm going to get some huge heatshrink for the board and invest in finding some good connectors instead of bare wire. That way first thing I do is to solder on the connectors and not have to worry about the whatever wire touching another wire when I'm not paying close attention and getting the magic smoke.[:(!]

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[james3]

Good ideas there xwing. I admit that with the amount of electrical tape and bubble wrap that I have that tends to be what I use but I bet the heatshrink would be a nice clean way of getting it done.

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[Asher]

Well, Ive learned my lesson. I think next time, rather than leave everything flapping about I'm just going to whack a bit of chip-packaging foam either side of the board and tape that rascal up to form a protective package. That way I don't risk losing the wire at the solder point on the PCB (which appears to have been applied in a factory by a sub-literate, mitten wearing baboon with a nasty caffeine habit).

I figure its got to be safer cutting wires midway to splice them and then, as wisely pointed out, heat shrinking them up. I will now be staying as far away as possible from the arcane mysteries of the chip, and thats a fact.

[james3]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Asher

...which appears to have been applied in a factory by a sub-literate, mitten wearing baboon with a nasty caffeine habit
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

In reality it is much worse then that as they are done by folks that make hardly any money at all and have to get as many done in a day as possible so therefore they really don't give a snitz about the quality.


<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Firebird21]

Have you tryed bypassing the fuse?

That is, from my limited experience, what usualy goes first on the Hasbros.

Just take a jumper wire and connect it to each side of the fuse on the C/B (that silver tube thing with paper in the middle) and if it works, then that's the problem. (just solder the jumper wire on to it. That's what I had to do with mine. Fuses are over rated anyways![:p]
If not, check your other connections. You may have a wire in the wrong spot, or a bad solder joint.

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[Asher]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
In reality it is much worse then that as they are done by folks that make hardly any money at all and have to get as many done in a day as possible so therefore they really don't give a snitz about the quality.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Fair one. I've just been ranting about this very thing on another website. I consider duff toy lightsabers a fair penalty for my rampant consumerism [V]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Have you tried bypassing the fuse? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Right. The fuse. The silver thing is a fuse. I knew that. [:I]
You may just have made my day. . .

[savyas]

To follow up on an old thread... I just dismantled my anakin color changer, which for the record does not have clash on flash - only sounds, which are: power up, power down, idle hum, and clash (2 of them, if I recall). No swinging sounds.

The wires going to from the primary board to the the LED/clash sensor board are:
white wire goes to the red LED's
yellow wire goes to blue LED's
red wire is ground
Blue and black go to the clash sensor which was easily removed via a de-soldering iron.

I'm actually considering reusing this little LED board either in a pommel or in a neck piece somehow.. I haven't decided yet, but I might make it alternate red/blue or light 'em all up for a purple with the help of a diffuser of some sort.

At this point I'm still piecing together my first sink tube hilt and dismantling hasbro and a MR SW-616 construction set to gather spare parts and get some ideas while I put together my wish list in TCSS.

[SeiKai Starblade]

firebird, how the smeg did you get the thing open? :roll:
i'm guessing the secret lies in the shroud, mebbe in the clippy thing that sticks outta the back?
the shroud bit seems to be the only bit that isn't part of the two halves that split lengthways...

or did you just break it open? :p

[strengthofrage]

I have only broken open the hasbros so far, never had the patience to be delicate aside from with the board itself.

[Firebird21]

firebird, how the smeg did you get the thing open? :roll:
i'm guessing the secret lies in the shroud, mebbe in the clippy thing that sticks outta the back?
the shroud bit seems to be the only bit that isn't part of the two halves that split lengthways...

or did you just break it open? :p



If I remember correctly, I used a x-acto knife, screwdriver and some bruet force...

[Zero Unit]

I used a dremel and brute force to gut mine, just so I could get its speaker.