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View Full Version : New to the MHS builder, any suggestion on building?



Deus ex Machina
09-16-2008, 08:19 PM
Hey, i'm new to the MHS system and Custom Saber shop. I'm not exactly sure what the stipulations are when building a custom saber here; such as assembly, electronics etc. I've been reading through some of the tutorials and other notes on the forums on composing a complete saber. I'm primarily interested constructing an EL blade Saber with sound.

I've been using the SaberBuilder tool for visual design. (Attached picture)
I'd like to stay fairly close to this final design if possible. Unfortunately the tool doesn't seem to be giving a pricing during the time i was building the saber, so I can't be sure on the exact cost as it is at the moment.
Here is the list of parts i used, as the tool specified. If you see any parts missing, or incorrectly used please let me know. I'd like to make sure i can build this saber once completed.

1. TCSS: AngelusLupus Custom BH-4bt
2. TCSS: Hilt 3_bb
3. TCSS: 1/2 in. ChokePoint_be
4. TCSS: RIBBED Extension
5. TCSS: Double Male Threaded Connector
6.TCSS: 30 2in. Sink Tube Style 1 (is the choke also the same as the sink tube?)
7. TCSS: Pommel_4
8. TCSS: Guarded Switch - Red
9. TCSS: Thumbscrew 1
10. TCSS Covertech Black - Side

I would like the ability to easily change blades with this saber as well. I read that it's wise to put a quick disconnect in the hilt in order to easily access the blade electronics, remove the blade, and replace with a different one, in under a minute or so.

Any suggestions, tips or comments would help greatly. Again, i'm new to TCSS, and still unsure of many things in the process, so any input will help understand other forum topics as well as tutorials. From what i understand all pieces are shipped and the saber is self assembled once received. Or is there also a service package in the store that includes assembly?

Many Thanks!

xwingband
09-16-2008, 08:38 PM
Well...

-The blade holder is custom in case you didn't know that. You're going to have to e-mail Tim (the owner) for getting the quote on that.
-All the black is going to need to be added as a service. Since there are parts that are taken off it will need to have a service fee for that as well.
-A simple sinktube on your order won't do it...
*****A) because the powdercoating to make the black is thick. It won't slide over it.
*****B) They're uncut. I don't know Tim's policy on that, but you may have to see about getting a shroud from some other metal tube cut anyway.
-The bottom is incorrect... your threading for the ribbed section is backwards.
-It normally does not come assembled to my knowledge. I've never requested that... It's quite doable though. If you pay for Tim to tap the holes you need then it's just screwing parts together.

Winter Moonshadow
09-16-2008, 10:59 PM
I wouldn't bae my list off of what is on the builder with the exception of the stock parts. The builder is just a reference for the parts you buy in the store and some of the custom parts other people have ordered.

Deus ex Machina
09-17-2008, 09:43 AM
Yes, i did see that quite a few of the pieces used on this saber are custom. I have no doubt i'll be doing more research. Thanks for the heads up on the ribbed sections as well as the sinktube info. like i mentioned, any corrections you have would be great, because i've never built a saber before. Also if you have any suggestions on what to add/remove for quality, and ease of revising the saber, i'd greatly appreciate your opinions and experience.

xl97
09-17-2008, 10:58 AM
I wouldn't bae my list off of what is on the builder with the exception of the stock parts. The builder is just a reference for the parts you buy in the store and some of the custom parts other people have ordered.

hence those parts are in the CUSTOM PARTS section.. :rolleyes:

but what does that mean? doesnt mean you cant get an IDEA of a part and have Tim (or whomever) make it for you..


Deus ex Machina-
as far as the pricing.. well it just never got implemented.. and I dont see it in the near future, unless I get bored or something.. but I dont see any point in it really.. there are parts available in the SaberBuilder app that arent even from TCSS (clamps, custom parts, parts made from others besides TCSS..etc)

as well as parts that need custom work such as powder coating..etc which is an extra charge.. or machining before/after powder coating.. which is also an extra charge.

annon
09-17-2008, 11:15 AM
once you flip the ribbed section you won't need the double male adapter.
your thumb screw is in the wrong place, it needs to be on the blade holder (probably in the thick part for strength)
If you get Tim to tap the holes for the thumb screw and belt clip button, putting it together is as easy as screwing the lid on to a jar of pickles.
But if you're worried about wither you can put it together or not the sink tube shroud might not be a good idea for your first build.
You also might find 16 in. to be a little long. Most people like their saber to be 10 to 13 in. (if you want a really long saber, just ignore me and go for it ;)) The trick I use is to take a piece of news paper, measure out the length of your saber, roll it up, then you have a real world idea about how big its going to be.

FenderBender
09-17-2008, 12:12 PM
Why would you go with EL?

Deus ex Machina
09-17-2008, 03:58 PM
xl97- I did notice that it had an N/A icon in the price section, so i wasn't too sure on if it actually functioned. No worries there, browsing through the store gives more than enough to compile pricing for most pieces. I'll have to ask Tim about powder coating once this bad boy is complete.

annon- My thanks for pointing that out. I hadn't originally seen the male/female ends on some of those pieces, but with some searching and further use of the Saberbuilder i was able to modify my design a bit. I've also shortened it a bit, removing a piece or two that is more or less non functioning, and the newspaper roll did give a better idea of something with a physical lenght. As far as the covers or shroud, i've been thinking it might be little tricky installing those, i might hold off on them, but I really do like the look. I'll cross that bridge when i come to it. :cool:

I'd like to make it an EL blade for a few reasons, but primarily:
Duelability
Blade removal/quality
Thickness (or thinness)

From what I understand, EL blades are of the best quality for dueling purposes, and won't get and "dead" spots in the blade like i've seen with other LED blades. Some have said that the EL blade isn't as bright as some of the LEDs, but overall brightness isn't as important on my list as duelability. I also prefer the 3/4" thickness of blade. To me, I think the blade size is perfect. I have read that there are upsides to both, as well as the LED/EL combo blade. I'm not sure what most prefer, but anyone has any input, i'm glad to hear it.


Electronics:

Hilt:
the internal electronics, speakers, battery housing, wiring etc. can all be found on the site, and seems fairly straight forward to install, unless working on something a little less spacious, and a little more elegant. What i get a little confused on here is the sound board. Am i correct that for sound, you need a working soundboard, as well as a speaker assembly for this to work properly? I was thinking i would use the same soundboard from the Master Replicas style sabers, but i'm not sure on how that would all go together, or if there are better quality soundboards that anyone might prefer, or advise on.
Blade: The EL style blade is pretty straight forward as well. The 1/4" jack needs to fit into the hilt and connect with the matching plug on the inside connected to the rest of the electronics. Is this all there is to the EL blade electronics installation, or am I missing quite a bit?

Thanks again

xl97
09-17-2008, 04:07 PM
I think you are cofusing LED blades with LED Strings blades... with an LED your just shining LIGHT up a tube.. which would be the best for dueling I believe...

Oro Dain
09-18-2008, 07:24 AM
I'm no pro but I think the EL wiring is the one that can get black spots, it does sound like you have things a bit confused.

Mazarill Slay
09-18-2008, 07:44 AM
LED will give you no black spots if your worried about that..

As for the rest its a cool saber. I could see the choke extension being weak because you have a long blade holder already..

Though I am no pro.. I myself am building my first saber so I can be wrong.. This is just what people have told me and I have read

Malaki Skywalker
09-18-2008, 12:19 PM
Luxeon LED's in the store are WAY better then EL for many reasons, they are VERY good for dueling (Just ask Novastar ;))

They are VERY bright (They own EL in brightness)

There are NO electronics in the blade, its just light in a tub so their is NO CHANCE of breaking anything bar the blade

You have many choices in colors which are also very bright.

You also have the Crystal Focus with Luxeon tech ;)

ANd loads more stuff which I'm to tired to remeber lol :rolleyes:

Deus ex Machina
09-18-2008, 12:21 PM
hmmm, that's interesting.

I have a few of the MR Force FX sabers which i believe to be the string LED type blades that xl97 had mentioned, and those blades do aquire quite a lot dead spots from dueling. I may be way off, but from what I read on a few sites was that the EL blade, although a string, is encased in a polycarbonite shell, which keeps the string from collecting any dead spots. Anywho.. that's good information i will need to take into consideration now. Any other experiences with particular blades or information that might be helpful?

xl97
09-18-2008, 12:33 PM
LED is all you need to know..LOL

EL is exactly that a wire run the length of a tube.. it is a physical part and hence can be damaged when dualing.

LED is a super bright light (LED) that is shined up the (polyc) tube.. and has no physical properties inside.. (unless you count the wraps peopel pu tinside to make a core'ing look or for eveness...


STING LED same problems..physical parts that can be dammaged when 'whacked' ;)

Hasid Lafre
09-18-2008, 12:42 PM
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?f=35

Read all of that.

Tom Starkiller
09-18-2008, 12:49 PM
light in a tub

?? XD

The morral of this story, uhm... thread:

Go for LED, forget that EL even exists when it comes to lightsaber blades. ;)

Deus ex Machina
09-18-2008, 05:53 PM
Malaki- thanks for that direction, i did a little investigation work on the luxeon blade as well as the Crystal Focus. There are a lot of great features with those boards. :p

Hasid- good point on that thread. There's plenty of good info in there, and should have ready there all of those first.

I think now with all of your info, the LED Luxeon blade is the right way to go for what i'm looking to accomplish. Hahaha:rolleyes:

I've made a few adjustments to the saber, I'll attach a new picture to update. most of the same pieces, just better suited this time around.

As for the rest, The LED quick connector and saber break for easy color changing is the route i think i'll be taking. If you have any suggestion for where the best place for that would be on this lil guy, let me know, but basically it looks to be just below the Emitter is the opportune position. The hilt electronics and batteries all seem to be pretty simple like you've all mentioned. Especially with the Crystal Focus core (although may be out of my skill/price range on this saber)

Thanks again to everyone for all the great input!;)

Deus ex Machina
09-18-2008, 06:42 PM
forgot to add the attachment.

revised layout:

swear000
09-18-2008, 07:09 PM
interesting layout. I personally would either just go with a shroud or just the emitter. They don't look right together for some reason. just my 2 cents.

Zero Unit
09-18-2008, 07:28 PM
LED strings get dark spots. EL may get damaged, at which point it goes out. LED is near indestructible. The worst that could happen is A.) you fry your LED because you applied wrong electrical values or had a short circuit, or B.) You get a loose connection.

As for EL internals being simple: LED has it beat. Battery+resistor/puck/driver+switch+LED = saber electronics. No insanely tiny wires to strip or risk breaking. All you need for LED is a soldering iron, the pencil kind.

Deus ex Machina
09-20-2008, 01:49 PM
Now that we're past all the major construction, my last inquiry is about sound. :p

Apart from pulling a sound board out of a MR saber, and seeing as how neither Ultrasound or Crystal Focus are available at the moment, what might be a good alternative sound board to throw in? Is it better to ride it out for the US or CF boards, or is dismantling a MR saber the best bet?

Thanks again

Hasid Lafre
09-20-2008, 01:54 PM
I would get an mr board from the 616 kit, would be cheaper and it works, then I would use that with eather buck pucks or corbins board.

xl97
09-20-2008, 01:58 PM
isnt there a problem getting power up/down (effect & sound.......I think it may have been down only??) from using the Joe Jedi (616) boards??

I really got the finally summary on all that?