joe jedi saber wiring

[LAN-ED-TUL]

i have one of those i gutted out, and i see on the prolight rgb led theres 3 + leads, and 1 - lead, so just so i got it right, i simply take the 3 + leads and wire them together and connect to + terminal on new L3 led? and the neg lead of course to the neg terminal pad on L3 led?

right now thats the way i have it and it works, but is the L3 led getting all the power or do i need to jump wire the switch on the board so it puts out all 3 outputs at once?

[Lord Dottore Matto]

I think that many of us are wondering the same thing http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4279,

But I don't think that anyone has posted a definitive answer yet. (if they have, could someone please point my blind a$z to it!):-?

[Novastar]

Lan, you'll want to speak with Grayven a bit since he is like the 616 "masta"... :) but yes, the three + leads were essentially for each color, and there is the common ground naturally.

You can always meter the current with a multi-meter by essentially moving your meter to the correct setting (may have to also change the + plug on the meter to another hole), and "tap in" to either the pos or neg line to read how much is flowing.

In general, I think each of the three outputs is GENERALLY spitting out 1/3 of the current. So like 300mA x 3, although they aren't split TOTALLY evenly since each color is fine-tuned.

I don't know what happens if you bypass any of these and just feed the Luxeon (or whatever LED) the direct power the board gets. In other words... I don't know if you'll be bypassing resistors or whatever. It can't hurt to try. The worst that might happen is bye bye LED. And like I said, you can always meter the current to see.

It probably won't kill an LED to be over-driven (even fairly massively) for like 2 seconds. If you determine there is too much... just stop, hahah. :) But I doubt that will happen. The 616 is only capable of out-putting so much. As it is--stock "older" FXs spit out around 900mA to 950mA. In general.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

lower current outputs on the 3 leads is what i was thinking, and if thats the case, then what i was wondering is if was possible then, to maybe solder a jumper wire across the boards switch, the one that flips between the 3 colors, so you would get output simutaneously from all 3 leads hitting the luxeon led, a L3 cyan to be specific.

as i said above i wired all 3 + leads together to the + term. on the led, and the single - lead to the - term. on the led. its working pretty nicely that way, but i wasnt sure if the led was getting all it could that way, without doing something extra to the board switch. i will ask grayven bout it and see if he knows.

[FenderBender]

Please post any conclusive info one way or the other. I should be getting my P4's soon and will be trying the same thing.

[xwingband]

Turning on all three would just divide the output among them gaining nothing as it'd still equal the single. Why? The switch just signal which to send the power to. The current is regulated through the big resistor on the board. The board isn't changing that resistance, it's just directing it.

The best way would be to replace that resistor or bypass it.

[Novastar]

Oh carp... Lan--I totally misunderstood you. I missed that you were essentially running a single Lux III in there (Cyan as you say).

So yeah, nevermind what I said--not needed for your purposes--what X-wing said about splitting the leads or not splitting them is 100% right... they all end up in the same place! So--no matter what, you'll get the same total output.

Anyhoo... the Lux III cyans, blues, green, etc. generally like 1000mA... which is (likely) just around what the 616 outputs.

Still, I say METER that beeeeotch and find out for certain. Then if you want to start getting crazy and popping off resistors... sure, go ahead. But ultimately, it's like... does the effort warrant the result?? Up to you to decide, but I say "not".

The @1A output from the 616 and the "older" MRs is just fine for most LED sabers. If you want "pimped" current + sound... that = Ultra v2 or Plecter CF v4. Both of which are on their way back directly... ;)

[LAN-ED-TUL]

yeah, i got a order in for a US2 board, thats goin in my vader saber which has the US1 in it now. Do-Clo pm'd me and said to run a relay with the Joe jedi board, hooked up a certain way, and i would get close to what the L3 cyan needs then. just asked him for a lil more details on the relay and such to iron it all out.

im thinkin i might put the Joe Jedi board in the MHS obi saber im workin on, but i might just use the US1 board in it instead, and that would solve the problem.