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XozFisto
09-06-2008, 09:37 AM
New to making my own saber but when I met the guys at NY Jedi and saw what they had done, it inspired me to try.
So... I come on here and start to read. I read and read and the more I read and the more I look... The more confused I get.
I want a yellow bright blade.
Now... What things do I need to accomplish this with the EL system? I can solder things but when it comes down to X, Y, Z to do this... I am completely baffled.
So. What I ask of you who have done it so many times... What do I need for a bright yellow blade.
AND... Just how hard is it to add sound?
Thank you in advance. :D

Malaki Skywalker
09-06-2008, 09:41 AM
Don't bother with EL. Read ALL of this ;)

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2025

And to add sound, just check out Saber Sound and Cutaway views and wiring schematics

Hope this helps :cool:

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
09-06-2008, 10:25 AM
I've got an awesome yellow blade. Your best bet is to get the Lux III kit from the store and choose the white Seoul P4 as the color option. The put a yellow filter in it.

Read this thread:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=5732

I posted a throng of pictures there, and a link to get a set of Lee filters.

Lord Dottore Matto
09-06-2008, 11:49 AM
You can do a nice EL yellow blade (link-->http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Complete-yellow-EL-Blade--P209.aspx) Most of us like LED sabers better for a number of reasons, but you can build a very nice EL saber if you choose, and yes, it can have sound too! (Linky-->http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=972&highlight=sound+switch) this link will also show what electronics you need to buy!

XozFisto
09-06-2008, 12:56 PM
Well, I do want this one for combat as well. Heard the LED ones don't do the combat.

Also... you all are awesome for responding so fast!

Haven't read through them all yet but wanted to thank you for helping a poor gal out. ;)

XozFisto
09-06-2008, 01:01 PM
How do you secure everything inside the saber?

Is it worth it to mess around with the sound?

I do like the idea of being able to have a white saber that is changed with color though. That's pretty nice.

Do you mind if I keep asking questions here as I figure all of this out?

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
09-06-2008, 05:13 PM
Heard the LED ones don't do the combat.

The thick walled LED blades sold here are almost indestructible, and will stand up to just about anything you can throw at them. Ask Novastar about this. In the course of producing his Balance of Power shows, he whacked his sabers together thousands of times, and they stood up to it.


How do you secure everything inside the saber?

Some people just shove everything in there, and the fact that it is a tight fit just holds it all from moving around. Others make a sled or carriage out of some non-conductive material and use hot glue to hold the components in place. Then they slide the whole assembly into the saber. Personally, I have some plastic sleeves that came from an old golf bag that fit perfectly into the MHS hilts.


Is it worth it to mess around with the sound?

Short answer: yes. It's much more fun to swing your saber around and have it sound like "the real thing". However, if this is your first saber, and you haven't got a lot of electronics experience, I recommend that you concentrate on getting it together and lit up for now. You can always add sound later as your skills increase. In the mean time, read as much as you can about the different sound options available.



I do like the idea of being able to have a white saber that is changed with color though. That's pretty nice.

It's nice to have options, but if you read through that thread that I posted, you'll see that your choices are limited. Yellow, amber, sky blue and pink, are good, but you can't get a good red, green, purple or blue with filters.


Do you mind if I keep asking questions here as I figure all of this out?

No problem, but if you look around, most of your questions will have been asked and answered already. Read as much as you can, but if you get stuck, feel free to ask.

felix142
09-07-2008, 10:15 PM
What are you looking for in your saber?

Are you looking for something that you can use to duel with other people or are you looking for something that just looks cool?

EL blades are heavier than LED blades. LED blades are just polycarbonate with an extremely lightweight diffuser material. EL blades have the polycarbonate, diffuser material (which is heavier than LED), and 10-17 feet of EL wire. It all makes for a heavier blade. Keep in mind that in so far as the movies, the blade is weightless. LED will achieve this far better than EL.

If looks are all that matters, then EL will give you the uniform/even color that the films suggest. However, the blades are much heavier and far more prone to damage than LED blades.

Polycarbonate probably won't break unless you try to break it. The only thing I'm trying to impress upon you is that EL baldes are heavier and much more labor intensive than EL.

Also, as a person who has constructed both EL and LED sabers, I have found that the LED effect shows up much better in person than in most of the photos in this site have captured. The EL photos are as advertised. In my opinion, EL photographs better than LED, but LED is still very impressive in person.

As far as sound goes, it depends upon your resources and experience with electronics. There are diagrams in this site under the heading "SABER SOUND" that will guide you through the wiring diagrams of the various saber sound cards (be it Master Replicas or Hasbro). If you've ever soldered a connection before, then you're golden. If not, it's not rocket science. It's not complicated. Just use shrink wrap or electrical tape (if you don't know what I mean, keep surfing the site and you will).

Keep asking questions if you need to. Most people here are exceptionally helpfull.

B.

XozFisto
09-09-2008, 08:12 AM
Okay... I was thinking of LED as the ones that are like the Master Replica ones. But the LED ones here are the ones I want!

So, yes, there is a lot of information about as I read. The more I read, the more I get confused with all the terminology thrown around. I'm slightly dislexic so reading in one place and then going to see somewhere else really screws with me.

Okay. So a LED, white, and filters... That way I can change about when I want. Because I kinda like the white as well.

Got that part down.

I know it's all in the forums and I can read it... But as I said, I get really confused. Can someone just tell me the parts I need to run a really bright white LED?

Darth Leximus
09-09-2008, 09:01 AM
I'm feeling karmic today so I'll help you out.

For externals...as in the case you put the electronics in...you need:

Blade holder
Center section (this can be multiple different pieces)
Pommel
Pommel insert
C-Clip (to hold in insert)
Blade retention screw (to hold the blade in so it doesn't go flying while dueling)

Now that is bare minimum of what you need, and that's also assuming you are going to use all MHS parts (MHS = Modular Hilt System..aka the parts sold at The Custom Saber Shop)

As for internals you need:

Lux III kit (this will give you the cheapest solution for all the electronics you need)
The kit includes a battery pack, a switch, a resistor, the LED, a lense and lense holder.
For a yellow blade you would also need a pack of colored disc filters

You can get into more advanced options which I'm sure someone can explain if you need them too, but this is the basics that will get you a nice glowing saber in no time.

Hope this helps!

XozFisto
09-09-2008, 11:12 AM
*Gives Darth a big fat kiss*

Thank you! And your sithly Karma will come back to you tenfold.

You guys are all the best!

Now... Any girls on these forums besides me??

Jay-gon Jinn
09-09-2008, 02:18 PM
If you want that blade to be a really bright white, when you order the Lux III kit, use the option to trade it off for the Seoul P4 white. It's almost twice as bright as the Lux III white, and will work better with the filters. You ight also want to trade out the resistor in the kit using the option menu, for the buckpuck, as it is more effecient at regulating the current and prolongs the battery life of the saber.

Darth Leximus
09-09-2008, 02:29 PM
*Gives Darth a big fat kiss*

Sweet! Congratulations you are the first other woman to kiss me since I got married!

Definately listen to what Jay said in his post. You will most definately want to switch out for the P4 LED it's much brighter than the Lux III but will run off the same electronics setup. The buckpuck wouldn't be a bad idea, they are a little pricier but definately worth it.

Darth_DevilGuy
09-09-2008, 02:47 PM
go with the puck, it produces a better light and a more even draw off the batteries, with a resistor the light fades as the voltage drops, with a puck, it stays even untill the voltage drops below minimum or the batteries drain.

XozFisto
09-10-2008, 01:47 PM
*Hides from the wife*
Okay.. .tonight... I buy my parts!

What about blades? And if you get the blade holder... Do you need the screw still? What keeps the blade from going down inside, the holder? Oh so many questions. :P

Arm on Fire
09-10-2008, 02:30 PM
yes, you need a screw to hold the blade in place, but more importantly you will need to drill and tap a hole in the blade holder, or pay Tim (Stryder) to do it for you.

The hole for the blade does not go straight thru the holder, the inside has a shoulder that the blade sits against and there is a smaller hole for the light from the LED to shine up the blade.

Darth Leximus
09-10-2008, 02:36 PM
Yeah I'd hide if I were you, but shhh I won't tell if you won't

The question with blades is simple. Are you going to duel and/or just hit stuff with your saber??

Before I offer my suggestions I am going to state that this is my opinion and by no means the only way or the right way to do it, this is what I have done and what I find works best in my opinion.

If you are just going for show, the thin walled blades are fine, they are light weight and still very strong. Not too many things will break them except a thick walled blade.

If you want to beat stuff with the saber I suggest thick walled blades, they are heavier and stronger and pretty close to indestructible.

As for diffusion I use 4 wraps of corbin's film and about 4 ft of clear gift wrap and it's very bright and very even.

As for the Blade holder question. There is a shelf on the inside of the holder to stop the blade from going all the way into the saber. And yes you will need still need a screw to apply pressure to keep the blade from flying out of the holder.

I think that covers hope it helps

XozFisto
09-19-2008, 10:50 AM
So with the film... Do you stick it to the inside of the tube or... How does that work?

So far... I have gotten these items for my saber on my wishlist:
Screw on LED blade holder style 4

Double threaded hilt style 4

MPS Pommel style 5

MPS Insert style 6

MPS Clip

Build Your Own
Luxeon III Electronics Kit
Price: $36.19
Collimator Lens 5 viewing angle
SPST Push on/off - Mom switch with black button
Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
4AAA battery holder
BuckPuck 1000mA
White
11 Colored Discs

Blade film (1" Thick walled, Quad wrap +$9.00)

3/4" Aluminum adhesive disc

Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tips

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long

MHS ribbed extension v-grooved
Screw on LED blade holder style 4

Double threaded hilt style 4

MPS Pommel style 5

MPS Insert style 6

MPS Clip

Build Your Own
Luxeon III Electronics Kit
Price: $36.19
(Collimator Lens 5 viewing angle
SPST Push on/off - Mom switch with black button
Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
4AAA battery holder
BuckPuck 1000mA
White)

11 Colored Discs

Blade film (1" Thick walled, Quad wrap +$9.00)

3/4" Aluminum adhesive disc

Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tips

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long

MHS ribbed extension v-grooved

Now... Did I do well? I just don't want to get all of this stuff and not be able to do it. I haven't ordered yet but I will.
I just want to be able to hold a finished product in my hand in an afternoon.
Hate having to wait. :P
And yes, I want a long handle. I have a friend who does powder coating and can do a tap and die... So that's taken care of on my end. What else can I possibly be missing?
And again... You all are the best for helping out this NOOB!

Darth Leximus
09-19-2008, 11:02 AM
The film can be tricky because everything likes to stick to it. If you've never done one before I would say order a complete corbin style battle blade and Tim will gladly put it all together for you so after you get everything wired up you just shove it in the BH tighten your screw and you are good to go.

Zero Unit
09-20-2008, 03:48 PM
Which White LED did you choose? The Seoul P4 or the Lux III? You want the Seoul P4 if you are doing filters, as it is much brighter. The Lux III is underwhelming at best when filtered.

XozFisto
09-22-2008, 11:18 AM
The P4, done... Ordering a complete blade. Done.

Anything else oh wise and powerful masters?

Signed,
Padawan Xoz. :P

ThreeQuadFive
10-03-2008, 08:35 AM
The P4, done... Ordering a complete blade. Done.

Anything else oh wise and powerful masters?

Signed,
Padawan Xoz. :P

Send 1 dollar to me, for eternal happiness? :)