05 MR Luke - Done & kits available

[Lord Maul]

This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Luke to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal with no weak plastic.

Parts List
Stock MR Luke ROTJ Lightsaber
Conversion Kit (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MR-FX-Luke-ROTJ-conversion-kit-P243.aspx)
8-32 threaded Blade Retention Screw (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-32-Thread-C43.aspx)
8.7 Degree Collimator Lens (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Collimator-Lens-87-deg-viewing-angle-P537.aspx)
Lens Holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/CreeRebel-Lens-Holder-P999.aspx)
Cree Star LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cree-XP-E2-C136.aspx)
Thermal Tape (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx)

Optional but recommended
Complete 1" Blade to replace factory one (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Complete-Blades-C13.aspx)


Picture Of Stock MR Luke
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_01.jpg

Another Picture Of Stock MR Luke
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_02.jpg

First, unscrew the pommel and take out the battery pack.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_03.jpg

Next, take apart the switchbox. Take off the sticker. This will reveal two screws. Undo these and you will gain access to the switch. Gently pull switch away from the metal and plastic housings, and remove the long black piece attached to the switch.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_04.jpg

Now, remove the black plastic battery sleeve. This will not be reused in the conversion, so don’t worry about damaging it. Push the switch inside the hilt when the sleeve has been removed.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_05.jpg

Now, unscrew the emitter section. It splits where the very top part meets the copper paint on the neck. Use a strap wrench or channel locks (with duct tape protecting the saber) to unscrew the emitter. You may want to secure the rest of the saber in a vise or have somebody help you hold it.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_06.jpg

Turn the saber so that you can see a black plastic pin holding the electronics in place. Use needle nose pliers to gently pull that free. Now you can slide the electronics down the hilt and out the pommel.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_07.jpg

Undo the three screws holding the black plastic sleeve together, and pull the sleeve apart.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_08.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_09.jpg

Pull the plug that is attached to the blade with all the wires from its socket on the sound card, and take the whole blade out of the plastic housing.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_10.jpg

Solder two leads onto the LED. A Seoul P4 green is used here. Red for positive, black for negative. Now is when you put the thermal tape on (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_11.jpg

Strip and tin the leads from the sound board. The brown is positive, everything else is negative. Slide the heatshrink onto the wires before soldering!
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_12.jpg

Shrink down the heatshrink. Then plug in the wire disconnect to test out the saber. If it lights up, you are good to go.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_13.jpg

Set the LED module aside, that you just wired up. You may want to remove the sound board as well, but it is not necessary. Cut the stock blade holder where the red line is. Cut before the big 'step' up. You should have a flat edge when done.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_14.jpg

Here is what you should have after cutting.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_15.jpg

Screw the LED heatsink into the blade holder now. Don't forget the optics. Connect the LED to the sound board again. Here is what you should have.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_16.jpg

Screw the other half of the electronics cover onto the module. You may want to tape the new blade holder to the electronics in order to keep them together.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_17.jpg

Make sure that when you push the electronics in, the blade holder sticks out a little bit. Here is how far it should be out.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_18.jpg

Pull out the switch wires. Put in the battery pack and test her out! Note: this saber has been weathered, but structurally it is still the same as a stock ROTJ.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_19.jpg

The last thing to do is drill and tap the blade retention screw hole. Use a #29 drill bit and an 8-32 tap. You will have to buy a screw separately, it doesn't come with the kit.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/luke1/luke_20.jpg

Congratulations! You have converted your Luke ROTJ FX Lightsaber to a brighter and more durable Luxeon/P4.