First time for everything....a saber's story

[Darth Leximus]

Ok I wasn't gonna post anything but the design here because I was seeking alternate sources to get this made, but after a few discussions I've decided to build it myself. There are going to be a whole lot of firsts for me in this build, but how else do we learn?!? So first of all here is the design for people who have not seen it...It's a render my buddy did for school a while back...

http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s347/workpbact/Lightsaber_3_0_by_broodofevil.jpg


Ok so this is going to be a long project, because I want it to look as awesome as that render does. Here's the plan....

I'm going to either have the emitter custom machined or wait till after I get my lathe and attempt it myself (first number 1)

The chrome looking overlay parts i'm going to do in apoxie sculpt as well as the oval part of the pommel. (first number 2)

I'm not sure what to use as the main backbone/black part but I'm going to experiment with some different things and see what I can use to get that slight curve throughout the saber instead of an angle like Dooku's, more like Ventress'. (first number 3)

For the spikes I will probably grind them into a vague backbone shape out of some kind of metal and then apoxie sculpt over that backbone to give it a 3D shape instead of flat spikes, plus that will make them flow into the overlay better. (first number 4)

The switches I would like to keep in about the same spot as they are on the design. I have plans to pick up a CF 4.0 on the next run (please please please) also a S.T.E.V.E. 2.0 as well as a Kalel board. So if all goes according to plan this will house a CF because of all the work involved in the crafting of this i think it deserves it. If I'm unlucky in grabbing one, I will put which ever is better between the Ultra and Kalel. So if it gets CF I will use tactile switches mounted internally and use thumbscrews to screw down and activate the power switch and then hid another tactile for AUX. I guess that would be a first too cause I've never wired any of the more "complicated" boards, but out of all the other firsts I've listed this is the least of my worries.

So there it is comment away, suggestions are welcome. This is going to be a time consuming process, but I will update this thread with progress over time. Anyone with experience in any of the above areas ie Apoxie sculptors (Treadingwolf I'm talkin to you!), machinists, metal benders??? Your advice would be welcomed!

[gundamaniac]

If you're planning on Apoxie Sculpting your overlays, just know that they will in no way actually look chromed or metallic unless you, say, airbrushed them chrome or something. I can see this hilt being done out of Apoxie, just don't expect the Apoxied parts to look really metallic. There's a reason I reserve Apoxie on my own lightsabers for just the black gripped sections or black decorative sections and use actual metal for, well, the metallic parts, and a reason that TreadingWolf uses Apoxie for organics.

Aside from that, I question what you're going to use as the base of the hilt. Are you going to build this around some kind of tube? The toughest part and only part I'm actually worried about for you right now is getting that slight curve in the tube. Do NOT forget to plan where you're putting CF and batteries in your saber, and do realize that the curve is going to somewhat limit your options.

Aside from my concern with the curve, I don't see anything about this saber that I think is too tough for you to tackle. Good luck, and post lots and lots of pictures!

[Darth Leximus]

Yeah I definately don't plan on it looking chromed, maybe more of a brushed metal look. I'm pretty good with paints weathering techniques so I think I could pull that off with apoxie sculpt, but like I said before I've never worked with it before so I could be wrong.

My other option is sculpting something and then fiberglassing it, then I could use rub and buff to give it a metallic look, but I'm gonna try to apoxie first since it is far fewer steps and easier to work with.

I am absolutely going to use some sort of tube for the main body because this has to be a functioning saber. I'm just gonna have to research and experiment to see what's going to work the best for it. The nice part is the main tube doesn't have to be "flawless" as it will be painted/powdercoated and then have the sculpted overlay on top of that so I can cover any imperfections that way. I've also got a friend who builds custom exhausts for cars so i think he might be helpful as far as bending it goes.

[gundamaniac]

Hell, you can go so far as to coat your entire saber with Apoxie Sculpt (black for teh black sections! there's a thought! lol, I'm not trying to be sarcastic or facetious so you know).

If you plan on giving it a weathered metal look I don't see the problem at all. Your saber should turn out fine. It's interesting to see how different people utilize Apoxie. TreadingWolf does crazy organic work, I use Apoxie to try and fake parts I know I can't machine (like some "minor" detail work on my sabers) as well as for some other props (I made a "knife" from some anime as part of a costume), and now you're utilizing Apoxie to simulate insane machine-work. I really look forward to seeing how this turns out, since "sculpted" sabers are somewhat of a rarity...ESPECIALLY sculpted sabers that are supposed to look metallic and not organic.

[Darth Leximus]

I decided to try apoxie sculpt because I contacted a builder about doing it in all metal. When he got back to me he said that he would be doing all the metal parts in fiberglass and not metal. So I decided to save my $700 and just do it myself. Yep thats right he wanted $700 bucks for a resistored, soundless saber. I can build this whole thing...with a CF...probably twice for that amount. So i figure I can give it a whirl, if I fail, I can try again and still not have spent the 700 he wanted.

I'm really excited to start this, I may order some Apoxie here in the next couple of days and start playin with it so I know what I'm getting myself into. I'll also try some different paints and see what I can get finish wise.

And oh yes there will be pics galore!!!

[Master Dru-Er]

This is awesome very cool saber. I think with enough patience it'll turn out fine.

[gundamaniac]

Just be prepared to really really quickly knead together Parts A and B thoroughly. You have 3 hours to work with the stuff, and it gets quite a bit stiffer after the first hour. After the 2nd hour you really don't want to do any molding work, because the Apoxie will just crack (kinda like playdoh). I like the stuff, I just don't think that you actually have "3 hours" of real sculpting time.

And yeah, what a gyp, doing all that in fiberglass. Though I guess I can see how it'd be hard to make something like that out of metal. I just don't see the justification in a 700 dollar price tag...yeesh.

[Darth Leximus]

RIGHT!!! That's what I said, I would of written him a check today if he said he could make that out of metal, but I'm not payin 700 for fiberglass.