LedEngin 10 Watt RGBA

[vargose]

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=XynAqUfUlD2q%252bH97g3crGA%3 d%3d

Anybody have any idea how to wire this sucker up? Or any RGB for that matter?

I would want a switch on each color. So I could mix.

I was planning on using a buck puck for sure.

It gets confusing because each color has a slightly different voltage.

How many volts would my battery pack need to supply?

[Jonitus]

The specs are a bit odd. What this is, is essentially 4 2.5W LEDs. Each one needs 700mA, and voltage varies between 2.4 and 3.6 volts.

To have all 4 colors on, you would need a minimum of a 3.6 volt pack, but it would suck your cells dry in no time flat. Better to have a 7.4 volt pack at a minimum. More would be better and give you longer runtimes.

You're looking at four switches or potentiometers, plus four buckpucks, plus batteries. That will eat up some space!

[ThreeQuadFive]

Hmmm..

With all those electronic guts, you could go with a protosaber approach :)
Put all the general guts such as the batter pack, pot,buckpucks, etc into a control box for wearing on a belt, and then run decent wiriing up through a 'hose' on to the saber itself where led(S) sit.

Just a thought.

[vargose]

plus four buckpucks

Why couldn't you just use one buck puck to drive the multiple leds?

[Jonitus]

Why couldn't you just use one buck puck to drive the multiple leds?

It wouldn't work worth a spit. You'd be splitting 700mA between multiple LED, thereby starving them of power and reducing their brightness.

If you wanted to have multiple segments on at the same time to get different colors and take into account tuning the elements to give decent colors (not all of them have the same lumen output), you'd be better having four potentiometers and four buckpucks, so each element is independent of the others and gives you better control over them.

[vargose]

It wouldn't work worth a spit.

Ok, lets assume I am using a 7.2 battery pack (6 rechargeable AA).

And lets drop the buck puck idea for obvious space concerns.

What about a resistor set up? I am not sure how to figure out what value of resistor I would need, or how many for that matter.

[Jonitus]

You could, but then you're dealing with multiple switches if you want to change colors. Not to mention, a resistor dissipates any excess energy in the form of heat.

You wouldn't have any sort of control of your "shades" of colors with a resistor setup. If you wanted purple, for instance, you'd have all of the red and all of the blue. It might look nice...it might like like crap. You'd be stuck with it, because you couldn't tune the color.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you want the capability to change colors quickly and not have a bunch of switches, potentiometers, buckpucks or resistors, you're best getting a Seoul P4 and some Lee filters.

[vargose]

You wouldn't have any sort of control of your "shades" of colors with a resistor setup. If you wanted purple, for instance, you'd have all of the red and all of the blue. It might look nice...it might like like crap. You'd be stuck with it, because you couldn't tune the color.

Couldn't you still uses potentiometers in the resistor setup?

[Jonitus]

Couldn't you still uses potentiometers in the resistor setup?

Certainly. Only problem would b finding potentiometers that went from [certain value] to [certain value] in Ohms.

[vargose]

I could also use different resistors on each color to get the mixes right. Lets say I needed to resist red to get a good purple with blue. The red is plenty bright, so it won't hurt it much to do so.

[Novastar]

To Jonitus, you listen.
Experience he has,
Correct information he speaks.
But if experience on your own you ask,
Prepared you must be when the LED freaks.

[vargose]

Thanks for reminding me of my place. I was just thinking ahead. I would like to some day build a saber with that LED, but I am definitely not ready at this point. So I thought I better start doing my homework.

[Mad Hatter]

I use the 10W LEDs on my saber. I drive two in series at 1amp for the main blade and the other two in series from a 1amp buckpuck for clash flash. (Using a CF4) But mine is single color..

If you want color changing with buckpucks, the best thing to do is use 4 buckpucks, and put 5k potentiometers between the REF and CTL leads on each buckpuck. (Or three: use one for the 2 greens,)

You don't want to add resistors on the buckpuck output, or you are just making realistic saber heat... :p

[vargose]

I think I have a soltuion for the problem of having a button for each LED. A coded rotary switch.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=%2fs1LKTamv0z8otwp9TsAPA%3d% 3d

[vadeblade]

I think I have a soltuion for the problem of having a button for each LED. A coded rotary switch.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=%2fs1LKTamv0z8otwp9TsAPA%3d% 3d

Neat! how many will you use? Can't wait to see how it turns out.