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View Full Version : A possible cheap fix for the Hasbro S.B. F.O.C.?



Firebird21
03-08-2006, 01:29 PM
First of all I will start of by saying that my knowledge of electronics is limited and most of what I know about the subject I learned by playing with the Radio Shack 60-in-one electronics labs.

To be brief about this, can’t you put a capacitor and a resistor in series hooked up parallel with the Hasbro sound board and the LED to try and “cushion” the on off effect of the F.O.C. common with these circuits?

It would be my understanding that the capacitor would charge when the LED is on and discharge slowly (with the help of the resistor) so that when the Hasbro board cuts the power to the LED to make it flash, the capacitor would then supply the power; thus, at the very least, turning the annoying flashing into slightly dimming.

It would also make the power down more realistic for the same reasons. It would get dimmer as the capacitor runs out of charge.

Maybe you could put a diode in line so that the capacitor doesn’t feed back power into the S.B. And I suppose you could wire the diode so that the capacitor doesn’t charge using the resistor, so it could charge faster.


So, all you more electronically knowledgeable individuals… Am I on to something? Or am I totally off base on this one?


The other thing I was thinking of that I know would work, but would be difficult to locate the parts would be to get a momentary-on-off switch. (Just like the ignition in your car, I have seen them before in a more traditional switch, but I don’t remember where.) You can wire the S.B. to the “momentary” and the LED to the “on”. Problem solved.


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Strydur
03-08-2006, 02:00 PM
I tried this..either I just hooked it up wrong or it didnt work.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

Firebird21
03-08-2006, 02:06 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Strydur

I tried this..either I just hooked it up wrong or it didnt work.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I know the circuit works; I did it on the 60-in-one all the time. But it was using weaker LEDs and it too awhile to charge the capacitor.

However, I don’t know if you can get it to charge fast enough, if you can get a capacitor strong enough, and any other unforeseen complications. Maybe even heat issues.


BTW: It’s good to hear from the Man!

Edit: I used the biggest cap. on the lab, and the slowest resistor. Otherwise you don't have enough power and it unloads so fast that you don't notice that it even did anything.
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Do-Clo
03-08-2006, 03:56 PM
This would work if you have a large enough capacitor to power the led while the sound board flashes. But to supply at least 350ma @ 4.5 volts for even a breif time requires a rather large capacitor which would not fit in the hilt. With sabers space is always a problem when it comes to electronics, unless you build one like in the picture section that the guy uses as a display on his front lawn then space is no longer a problem.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

Strydur
03-08-2006, 04:49 PM
The board uses a transistor to switch the negative output to the LED. I would imagine it would take allot less to keep the transistor active but I am not familiar enough with them to figure out how.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

Do-Clo
03-08-2006, 07:14 PM
I have trouble shot the hasbro sound and I have not found a way to disable the flash on clash problem. This function is controlled by the microchip that is under the black spot of plastic material on the board. They use this so that the chip can not be removed without destroying it to prevent someone from reverse enginering it. I will be working on some ideas to prevent the flash but my spare time is limited these days. Tim I will post a fix if I come up with one.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

Firebird21
03-10-2006, 02:38 PM
What if you, using the Obi-Wan saber with the “Force”, took the lead from the vibration function and connected it to the LED? That way when the saber flashes, the power for the vibration motor keeps it lit.

Just a thought…


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Do-Clo
03-10-2006, 03:34 PM
I am not sure what the voltage is that drives the little motor, but most of those run on 1.5 volts which would not power the led. If I can get a Hasbro sound board with vibration I can test the functions to see if something is possible.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

WeirdoTransvestite
04-25-2006, 06:00 AM
Holy Thread Revival Batman!

Sorry to raise the dead, but I have an idea, why not take the wire that leads from the board to the light/LED and cut it. Now the board works, but the light doesn't. Take that wire you just cut and hook it directly to the negative lead from the battery, and to the light/LED. The light should work now, since it has complete circuit. The flash should also not happen anymore since it was bypassed.

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Do-Clo
04-25-2006, 06:32 AM
On most hasbro sound boards the negative wire is the one that is switched which is the one that causes the flash.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

Firebird21
04-25-2006, 09:00 AM
You know...


I used this board (Obi-Wan) and completely forgot to try some of my own ides!

What a looser!

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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Do-Clo
04-25-2006, 09:06 AM
I have used an obi-wan feel the force sound board with the little motor attached but there wasn't anything that you could do with the motor cause it only works on clash and then it runs as long as the clash is flashing which is a long time on this board. I ended up disconnecting the motor and the clash sensor cause the clash sound was really bad

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

WeirdoTransvestite
04-25-2006, 10:22 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Do-Clo

On most hasbro sound boards the negative wire is the one that is switched which is the one that causes the flash.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

There's two blacks though; one to the battery negative, and another to the light negative.l The light neg is what causes the flash. I'm saying scrap that wire, and put it directly from the light negative to the battery negative, completing the circuit and bypassing the flash.

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xwingband
04-25-2006, 10:25 AM
I don't get what you are saying... when you say scrap it to me that means don't use it, but then you say use it and I don't get how. We use the "light"(lamp) wire because that's how were getting the resistance to power the LED.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

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Do-Clo
04-25-2006, 10:32 AM
Since the positive is connected directly to the battery on most hasbro sound boards then if you connect the negative to the battery you will have your led on all the time and better plan on using a resistor to avoid frying your led.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

WeirdoTransvestite
04-25-2006, 10:35 AM
Now you're getting me confused. I'll get back to you following some more testing with my new vader.

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LAN-ED-TUL
04-26-2006, 02:28 AM
you mean fryin of the saber, lol




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luis rojas
04-26-2006, 06:34 AM
Hi I have a lots of doubts about the sound boards. I have heared here that the ones that comes inside the lightsaber of the "ultimate lightsaber" kit are the worse, but unfortunatly thats the ones that I have reciently bought (Hasbro Ultimate lightsaber kit). The problem is that a have a 3 battery pack (4.5V) for the light (luxeon led and a resistor) and the sound board uses only 2 batteries (3v). So if I connect the wires tha were originally for the lamp of the hasbro saber, the lights gets dimmed and fade out. What can I do? My only hope is to buy another hasbro lightsaber or another control board? Thanks

xwingband
04-26-2006, 06:38 AM
The problem is you need four batteries (assuming this is a 3W) to run it and you don't need a resistor. The board has it's own resistance. So coupled with the double resistance and not enough batteries that should account for your dim LED.

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Do-Clo
04-26-2006, 06:43 AM
You can safely apply 6 volts (4 AA) to a hasbro sound board without fear of frying it. In fact the sound board seems to work better with three or more batteries.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

luis rojas
04-26-2006, 06:57 AM
Hey!! As soon as I return home from work I will test your suggestions. Thanks and may the force be with you.

WeirdoTransvestite
04-26-2006, 08:06 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by LAN-ED-TUL

you mean fryin of the saber, lol
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

That was a possibility, but it didn't happen. I got it.

On a saber with F.O.C. Hook the negative lead from the light (black) to the negative lead on one of the sensors (trial and error, light turns on you're good). Bingo, no flash, and the light still turns on and off from the switch..

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Do-Clo
04-26-2006, 08:24 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by WeirdoTransvestite

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by LAN-ED-TUL

you mean fryin of the saber, lol
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

That was a possibility, but it didn't happen. I got it.

On a saber with F.O.C. Hook the negative lead from the light (black) to the negative lead on one of the sensors (trial and error, light turns on you're good). Bingo, no flash, and the light still turns on and off from the switch..

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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Do you still have sound with motion and on clash or just sound when you power up and power down.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

WeirdoTransvestite
04-26-2006, 08:59 AM
Everything but the flash works.

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Do-Clo
04-26-2006, 09:28 AM
Weird but if it works, ok.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

xwingband
04-26-2006, 09:37 AM
What's powering the LED then if the lamp wire is going to one of the sensors? Did you just switch the wires then? or is it still going to the LED but it makes a jog to one of the sensors?[?]

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WeirdoTransvestite
04-26-2006, 10:13 AM
The Red wire (power) still goes to the lamp. The black one (return), which causes the FOC goes to one of the sensor's negative. The lamp still recieves power and still works. All sound functions also still work. The Flash, however does not. I'll try to get pictures up later.

Then I suggest someone else try to duplicate my results just in case it was a fluke.

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xwingband
04-26-2006, 10:28 AM
Yes, a diagram would help because I still can't understand what you are wiring to what.[?] The red (positive) battery wire is NOT mormally what we are using for the LED. There is normally three wires; a red positive (to batteries), a black (to the batteries also) and another black one labled lamp on the board (goes to LED positive).

Me = still [?]

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Before posting did you check the Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577)?.

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WeirdoTransvestite
04-26-2006, 11:11 AM
There might be a problem with that then, I don't have any luxeons around, so I'm trying to disable the flash using the actual hasbro lamp. Also, it's dimmer the way I describe.[:(]

I think I'll just go buy one without flash.

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james3
04-26-2006, 11:23 AM
It would seem to me that using a latching relay for the LED would solve all the hassel, that way you get all the desired features but the blinking option is gone and you still only need a momentary switch.

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Do-Clo
04-26-2006, 02:06 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by james3

It would seem to me that using a latching relay for the LED would solve all the hassel, that way you get all the desired features but the blinking option is gone and you still only need a momentary switch.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

The problem with most latching relays is they required a reverse polarity pulse to unlatch and using a hasbro sound board you only get one type of pulse.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

james3
04-26-2006, 02:40 PM
I didn't realize that, that's what I get for assuming[;)] Oh well, I reckon there is another option....
Corby 86! almost as handy as the <font size="6"><font color="red">BFH-9000</font id="red"></font id="size6">[;)]
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GFORCE13
04-26-2006, 10:24 PM
Oh No you had to <font size="6"><font color="red"></font id="red">ASS U ME</font id="size6">[:D][:p]

" I am a Jedi like my Father before me"
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WeirdoTransvestite
04-27-2006, 05:24 AM
Got any more gems there Beavis?

The way I had to bypass the flash tends to dim the light considerably. It's almost half of normal. I think what does this is under that black glob, and I can't get at it.

I 'm starting to think it's easier to make your own soundboard than modify one so it doesn't flash.

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Do-Clo
04-27-2006, 06:33 AM
What is under that black drop is a microcontroller programed with the sound and control for the saber light, all in one nice little chip.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

luis rojas
04-27-2006, 06:55 AM
Hi: I tried with a 6v pack, A hasbro SB of the "ultimate built your own lightsaber" pack and the 3w luxeon without the resistor and it works fine. I will put some pictures of it so another padawan can use it. I also have a Count dooku ligghtsaber of MR with that undesirable clash-light effect, but with a great sound, so if you figure out how to eliminate these efect, please let me know. Thanks guys

WeirdoTransvestite
04-27-2006, 05:03 PM
I give up, I now believe it to be impossible to disable the flash and keep the original brightness.

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LAN-ED-TUL
04-28-2006, 06:04 AM
thata what theyve been tryin to say.




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WeirdoTransvestite
04-28-2006, 06:43 AM
Yes I know, but now I found out for myself. And learned a few anger management techniques in the process. Studs hurt the fist.

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Ryma Mara
11-27-2006, 01:36 PM
Ok Ive done many searches but I dont exactly understand what the differance is.

But whats teh differance between momentary and latching switches?

Firebird21
11-27-2006, 02:00 PM
But whats teh differance between momentary and latching switches?


Momentary: The swith is on only when you are pushing the button. (used with Hasbro SB's

Latching: Once pushed it is on until you push it again. (MRFX SB's)

Ryma Mara
11-27-2006, 02:23 PM
kool thanks

gundamaniac
06-13-2007, 12:53 AM
Alright, I have a question concerning momentary vs latching switches with a Hasbro board. The momentary sends a little bit of juice to the board, activating it, right? And another press of the momentary will send some juice to the board to deactivate it. So what happens if I use a latching pushbutton like the ones sold at TCSS and double-tap to simulate pushing down on a momentary switch?

That may be a really retarded question, but dunno much bout electricity, switch types, driver boards etc, so I figured I'd ask before trying it out and frying my board.

xwingband
06-13-2007, 06:41 AM
Depending on the switch you can "simulate" the momentary action, but since there tons of momentaries out there and Tim offers both in the same style of switches it's TONS easier to get a momentary right off the bat.

gundamaniac
06-13-2007, 01:04 PM
Another thing I was thinking of was to try and use the latching pushbutton to prevent accidental activations and deactivations by requiring a double-click in conjunction with the Hasbro board to activate the saber.

How much harm would come to the soundboard if electricity was constantly applied via the contacts where the momentary switch should be? I figure that some people might press the momentary down for a long time before releasing and the soundboard must have some kind of defense against continued current...

Novastar
06-13-2007, 01:13 PM
Hi gundam... good to meet you at C4, btw...

You might want to start another thread regarding the latching switch vs. momentary... personally, I really get confused MYSELF these days on those and how they function exactly.

I try my best to stick with latching switches for whatever I can, as they tend to be more reliable for ME. It is possible the opposite will be true for others, depending on their setups.

A lot comes down to board design.

With something like Erv's "multi" button (lockup, blaster, "force action")... you MUST use a momentary, or it just wouldn't function.

Firebird21
06-13-2007, 03:32 PM
How much harm would come to the soundboard if electricity was constantly applied via the contacts where the momentary switch should be? I figure that some people might press the momentary down for a long time before releasing and the soundboard must have some kind of defense against continued current...



None...

That's how I has mine set up. The only thing is you had to shut the switch off then turn it back on to shut off the saber. The board won't switch until the current is interupted.

gundamaniac
06-14-2007, 12:07 AM
Alrighty, awesome. I'm going to try wiring sound into my lightsaber this weekend then.