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Firebird21
03-07-2006, 10:57 AM
**Submitted for review and constructive criticism for the eventual admittance into the Tutorial section. This is a rough draft.

I have read many posts about people having problems with painting their saber parts. Well since I went to school for Auto Body and spent the first 4 years of my professional life painting automobiles, I wanted to share some of the knowledge I have obtained over the years.

*Always paint in a well ventilated area and use the proper charcoal respirator (to prevent lung cancer)
*Wear gloves (I can not wear a watch now due to allergic reaction to solvents from not wearing gloves. Plus it will destroy your manicure)
*Safety glasses (I had a gallon of lacquer thinner splash into may face! Not fun!!! I’m Lucky to be able to see today! Just think about if you accidentally have the nozzle facing the wrong direction.)
*And a hair net. Yes, a hair net! You don’t want to spend all this time and effort just to have hair fall in it at the last step.
*Always follow the manufacture’s directions. My directions are for general use. I don’t want to boar you with the specific way to paint with every type of paint there is, so use common sense.


Tools:
-The first basic tool of a painter is the spray gun. They can run upwards of about $200 for a good one. The one I used was $400 and had a digital pressure guage. Then you’d need a compressor to use it. There’s another $400-$1000.
Now before you freak out… I have an alternative that will be better for you to use than even the most expensive spray gun. Go to your local Wally-World or hobby shop and pick up a cheap Testors Air Brush. They are easy to use and 1/10 the cost of a professional gun. And they run off of those cans of air. Just keep it CLEAN. A professional gun will end up wasting more paint than you will need to paint your parts.

Tip: An air brush will spray much better than any spray can. So what I did with my model cars was spray the paint from the can directly into the air brush bottle and used the Air Brush. And the paint is ready to use, no mixing.

Tip: When painting your parts it is always best to start and stop a “pass” before and after the part. Don’t stop a “pass” right in the middle of the part. Also, have each pass over lap the last by about 50%. This will reduce the likelihood of getting “Zebra Stripes” in your finish.

-Sanding blocks. Don’t use your fingers! It will leave bumps in the final finish that will not look very good. For flat surfaces any paint shop should have something that will fit your needs, but anything flat and smooth and will hold paper will work. The best thing to use for round parts is a chunk of Radiator hose. Just make sure you get all the grease and antifreeze off of it first.



The Basics:
-First off, CLEAN the part. You never know what is on that part, and even oils in your skin can prevent paint from sticking. It also prevents the second most common paint defect called “Fish Eyes”. (The first is Dust) Lacquer thinner works well for the realy grimy stuff, but many paint stores will carry a paint quality degreaser that will to the trick with out the burning sensation. And thinner can melt some plastics and remove prior coats of paint.

-Clean the part after sanding primer, just before you paint it. Don’t touch the part after you clean it and start painting. This will be the last time you can clean it. After you apply paint, there’s no turning back.

-Sand, sand, sand!!! Paint will not stick to unsanded parts. If it’s shiny, the paint won’t stick. But just because it isn’t shiny doesn’t mean it will. The part MUST be sanded for the paint to stick. Most paint works best with 220-600Grit paper, but read the directions on the can first for best resuts.

-Keep the area clean and dust free. Use a Tack Rag between every coat of paint.

-Spray LIGHT coats!!! I can’t stress that enough! You will not speed up the process by “lobbing it on”. It will actually slow you down and increase the risk of chipping and pealing not to mention it’s a waste of paint. You want to use light coats of paint so the paint will dry properly and it will cover better once you’re done. You will want to be able to see through the first coat of paint.

There is more to painting than just the color. The 3 basic parts are Primer, Base coat, Clear coat. Some paints don’t need the Clear coat because they have it built into the Base coat. All C/C does is makes it shiny and adds more protection. I will get more into this later.





Steel:
Steel is easy. It’s the most commonly painted surface in my industry. And it takes little effort. And I will also go over some more basics of painting with it.

Steel should be sanded with a coarse paper (180Grit or less. When used on steel the resulting sand scratches will be equivalent to 220Grit) then Etch primed. (The etching primer acts as the bond between the metal and the paint.) Then you should use a filling primer to help get the smoothest finish possible by filling in the coarse sand scratches from the first step.

*Tip: take some black spray paint and DUST a light coating over the last coat of primer. When you sand for the next step, just sand the black off. You will be able to easily tell what needs to be sanded more.

After the primer has had plenty of time to dry, (the more the merrier) sand it down with a finer paper (320-600Grit). Then you can now apply the Base coat (this is the coat that provides the color that you want the part to be. Some paint systems have the Top coat or “Clear coat” as part of this step. After the base coat has been applied (per manufacturer’s recommendations) you can then apply the Clear coat for that glossy look you love so much. There are also flat clears for a matte finish. You can then buff it once it is cured, but that’s another tutorial.



Chrome:
I see that the medium of choice for fabrication is the chrome sink pipes and the like. The problem with Chrome is that nothing likes to stick to it. I’m not exactly sure why, but I do know what to do about it. STRIP IT OFF.

Yes, strip it off. Chrome is process of electroplating Nickel onto the “Substrate” (this is the material of the object to be refinished, plated, ect.) then Chrome follows. The Chrome is only 5-10 millionths of an inch thick so it shouldn’t be too difficult to strip it off. You want to strip it down to at least the coppery colored Nickel plating or more. At this stage you can proceed to refinish it as you would any other steel.

You can sometimes get away with just giving the Chrome a good sanding, but it’s not the most reliable way as it will be more prone to chipping.



Plastic Parts:
You CAN NOT just sand any plastic part and paint it and expect it to last more than a day or 2.

You MUST clean them FIRST. There is a substance on all plastic parts called a Release Agent. For all intensive purposes this is basically Pam cooking spray for plastic. Its sole purpose in life is to PREVENT things from sticking to it, including your paint. It is used to get the part out of the mould during manufacturing.

To clean the release agent off of the plastic is very simple. Use rubbing alcohol and wipe it off. If it feels really greasy you should do it a couple of times. Just be sure that you also wipe off the alcohol too. Don’t let it dry on there, you’re just letting it redeposit back onto the plastic. There are also specifically designed cleaners available for this, but they cost more and rubbing alcohol works just as well.

The absolute best way to get it all off is to heat it up to get it out of the pours in the plastic. But typically this application doesn’t warrant such methods; just wiping it down should be sufficient.

You should use finer sand paper on plastics due to the plastic being much softer than steel. 320-400 should be best.

Some paint manufactures have special paints for plastic parts and are worth the extra $$.



Aluminum:
Basically it’s just like steel but keep them separate. Steel and Aluminum don’t like each other. They like to corrode each other. So it’s best to keep Aluminum parts covered when working on Steel, and the opposite. The dust can corrode and cause problems later. Also try not to use the same sand paper, grinding disks, ect. for the same reason.

If you have to screw a steel screw into aluminum you should use some "Never-seize" to help prevent them from reacting with each other and eventually “welding” themselves together.

It would also be a good idea to put some sort of gasket between these parts if you have a spot where bare steel and bare aluminum will be in contact with each other.


<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by naashar in another topic

...the black enamel (or my application technique[:I]) seems to be full of air, as I've experienced the hardening of said air bubbles on the emitter after the heat-setting...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


Those “Air bubbles” that you are referring to are likely the common problem called “Solvent Popping”. This is more common with thicker and glossy paints.

Solvent Popping is caused when the evaporating solvents in the paint get trapped in the paint. This is caused by drying too fast and/or no air movement during the drying process. The paint essentially skins over before the solvent has a chance to escape so it bubbles up under the surface.

To prevent this from happening:

-Use thinner coats of paint and let them dry the appropriate amount of time before the next coat. (Usually 5-15min. depending on the temp, paint used, humidity, thickness of application, ect…)
Generally speaking, if you can touch it and not have any paint stick to your finger, it’s ready for its next coat.

-Let the paint “Set up” before trying to add heat to speed up the drying process. (about 5-15min) If you heat it up too fast the paint will skin over too quickly.

-Keep the heat under 140*F. Any higher and you will boil the solvent out and it will decrease the adhesion of the paint (causing chipping and pealing).

-Make sure the area is well ventilated. If there’s no place for the evaporated solvent to go, it’s going to go right back onto your paint. The paint must be able to breathe when drying.


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james3
03-07-2006, 11:24 AM
Keep it up, I'm sure everyone would get a little something out of it and guys like me will get a lot.

scaarmor
03-07-2006, 11:35 AM
Not bad at all. I too have painted several vehicles and came from the automotive field. The only thing I can see that you should note is- If you are trying to paint something, anything at all, that is in anyway shiny, nothing will stick to the "shine". Take a sink pipe for instance- if you sand it to prep it for paint and for whatever reason miss a spot-anywhere- the paint will not stick to this spot. The same goes for painting over something that has already been painted, if you do not "rough" it up alittle and take the shine away the paint will not stick to that spot and serve as a place to start peeling, chipping, etc. So when light sanding to "rough" up pieces and prep them for painting remember to sand until you have no more shiny spots.

Cain


***A man is known by the enemies he carries, so make the best ones you can.***

***Give me a decent foothold and I will move the world.***

***It is now that we battle.When you die, await my arrival in the afterlife where we will battle again.Perhaps there you may have the ability to defeat me,but not here,not now,not this day.So let us part with words and embrace the blade.***

xwingband
03-07-2006, 11:42 AM
tetmatek should like this topis since he makes his living painting in very much the same line of work I understand.[:D] He mentioned wanting to do this, but the problem I see is Tim may not want to endorse this. He doesn't offer painting materials and he doesn't want to be held accountable for what others may do with outside resources. Like he makes a tutorial for the sabers and someone wonders why the PolyC they bought elsewhere doesn't fit. Tim can just [:D] and say I have PolyC in my store that fits.

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Firebird21
03-07-2006, 12:06 PM
scaarmor, you are correct, but misleading... While it is true that paint does not stick to shiny surfaces, you must also note that... Just because it's NOT shiny, doesn't mean paint will stick to it.

That's why I said "Sand, sand, sand!!!" But I'll take your input as "This phrase needs some elaboration." Thank you.


xwingband, as for your Tim's endorsement, a phrase like

"This "How to" guide is for information purposes only and this web sight is not responsible for any actions taken by the individual using the information given. This is a "Try at your own risk" tutorial and should be viewed as such. Furthermore, this web sight does not, at this time, endorse any paint manufacturer and does not provide any of the refinishing products needed or discussed in this tutorial."

I have a disclaimer already that says this is “Basic painting info” and to read the directions.
I suppose I could elaborate on that point more also.


Oh, and I should mention something about aluminum. One key point would be to not use the same sand paper, grinding disks, ect. for aluminum that you use with steel, as the steel dust could cause corrosion of the aluminum.

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Tenric Starkindler
03-07-2006, 07:28 PM
[:)][:D][8D][8)]
great stuff here!!

Being largely ignorant of all of this I find it both enlightening and daunting. There seems so much to do.....

I belong to a costuming/prop site that would likely love to see such a tutorial..........I eagerly await the finished product.

Reality often interferes with what would otherwise be an idyllic delusion.

Firebird21
03-08-2006, 10:51 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Tenric Starkindler

Being largely ignorant of all of this I find it both enlightening and daunting. There seems so much to do.....<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


It sounds like a lot, but most of the steps take 10x longer to explain or read than it does to do it. And most of it is just 2-3 extra steps than what most people are already doing. But those extra steps make all the difference.

As in all things though, practice makes perfect. And repetition is key. I’ve painted so many cars that most of these steps I do without thinking about it. It’s just second nature. So don’t be afraid of the task, have fun with it. If you follow the directions you will have a beautiful finish you will be proud to show off.

P.S. I have also added a brief segment on tools to use. And how to use them.


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tetmatek
03-11-2006, 10:29 AM
Since some of you guys don't have a $600 SATA Jet spray gun or air compressor i have compiled a list of undercoats available in aerosol to get your paint to stick. You should be able to find them at an autoparts store that sells auto refinish products.


For Aluminum, Steel etching

UPOLD acid #8 (if your metal has no flaws just use a red scotchbrite(3m) and spray.
Top coat can be applied after it dries no sanding required. You can also use filler directly over it and it won't come off

UPOLD High #5 if you've got some nicks or scratches this is a highbuild primer/surfacer.
apply it over the acid 8. use 3-4 medium coats then use 400 sand paper to get it smooth then reapply 3 more coats of High #5 then sand with 600 grit. You can use a grey scotchbrite to get in areas you can't get with the sand paper. then top coat

UPOLD WELD#2 this is for you guys with welder out there. its a weld thu primer to help with corrosion.

Upold also makes a clear coat but it like most aerosols Too thin. But here's the solution to getting good auto clear on your saber. A company called PREVAL sells aerosol units that screw onto glass jars so anyone can use professional automotive products. They are one time use if your spraying clear since it hardens up after a short time. so mix what you need only.
This is a great way to spray base coat clear coat without a paint booth or spray gun. Base coat works great because it dries fast!!! (5 - 10 min @ 70)I use PPG 3000 series clear because it is fast and looks great. dry time is about 2 - 3 hours without baking. dry time is 10 minutes with baking at 130degrees farenheit. then when it cools it is ready for service. REMEMBER paint dries with air flow as well as heat. if got no air flow it won't thru dry and it will lose gloss


Plastic adhesion is easy also PPG makes a adhesive promoting sponge that works great on plastics. I'll get the part number and add it later.


HOPE THIS HELPS. i would be happy to answer any questions on the subject if ya need.



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GFORCE13
03-12-2006, 12:53 AM
It Absolutely Does thanks for the Information, will definitely put it to good use.[:)]

May the Force
Be with You

Marc E.

Firebird21
03-13-2006, 09:58 AM
Hey guys, (and girls)…
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_feedback.gif

There must be something wrong or unclear! Lol

My gift of explanation is far from my greatest gift, so I know this isn’t as good as it could be. Is there anything that is confusing to painting http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_newbie.gif or is there something I left out?




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Do-Clo
03-13-2006, 10:25 AM
This is very good information and maybe Xwing can add it to his index that he is building.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

xwingband
03-13-2006, 10:31 AM
Yeah, I wasn't planning on indexing the Misc, but I may pick and choose some topic from here to add. This is good stuff.

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Firebird21
03-13-2006, 10:33 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

Yeah, I wasn't planning on indexing the Misc, but I may pick and choose some topic from here to add. This is good stuff.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I put it here because it wasn't specific to any one topic of building. Other than tutorials.

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xwingband
03-13-2006, 10:58 AM
That's no problem. I noticed when I was looking for posts on soldering that there was stuff everywhere, but nothing definative. So I just made a little summary.

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steel_darkblade
03-26-2006, 07:02 PM
So how do you -strip- the chrome off the chrome tubing? And like someone else stated, not all of us have the spray gun. I talked to one guy at Lowes... he said that if I prime the chrome tubing with a Rust-oleum prime, then spray paint it with the finish I want, then it should work. Another guy however... said that it would only work if I used Sulfuric Acid to remove the chrome plating off, then prime and paint like first guy said. So which should I do?

"All men die, but not all men live... which are you?"

Firebird21
03-26-2006, 07:08 PM
Sand it off, is the cheapest and best way for the individual to do it.


As for the spray gun, I did include an alternative solution… The Testor’s $30.00 Air Brush that you can pick up at any Wally-World will work excellent for this application.

It uses cans of air instead of a compressor and I just use spray can paint with it.

Just spray the paint into the jar for the Air Brush and you’re ready to go!

It sprays 10x’s better than any spray can. And you can adjust the spray pattern for you’re painting style.


Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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tetmatek
03-28-2006, 07:40 PM
UPOLD Acid # 8 Will stick to chrome. Just prep it with a red scuff pad

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Spencer_P
03-29-2006, 10:32 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Firebird21

Steel and Aluminum don’t like each other. They like to corrode each other.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Oh rats. I used a bunch of steel rivets to attatch my aluminum grips to my saber. Since these are rivets, I guess it's ok if they weld to the grips, unless the corrosion "leaks" from underneath the rivet. That would look bad if there is a patch of corrosion surrounding each rivet. Is the corrosion gonna leak like that, Firebird21?

LAN-ED-TUL
03-30-2006, 02:47 AM
it'll jus give it a used old saber look, lol

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

Firebird21
03-30-2006, 06:07 AM
The corrosion will look like white powder around the rivet.

It won't look like rust, and it may take awile. I wouldn't be too concerned about it right now. I think it will be about a year before it starts to show.

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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Spencer_P
03-30-2006, 11:09 AM
Thanks for the reply, Firebird21.
A year, huh? If it was my personal saber, I probably wouldn't worry, buuut... I was planning to sell it on Ebay, which means a year from now I'd have an unhappy buyer. Next question: What's the best way to remove twenty steel rivets? Should I drill them out of the grips, or is there a better way?
Here's a picture of the grips:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/Spencer_P/props024.jpg
Oh man! I used steel on aluminum all over the place (steel buttonhead and caphead screws)! Maybe I should stick that "Never-seize" stuff inbetween the screws and the aluminum.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e235/Spencer_P/P1010061.jpg
Is the corrosion harmful to human skin? I'm thinking about corroded batteries I guess.

Firebird21
03-30-2006, 11:37 AM
Take a cutt-off wheel and CAREFULY grind off the top OR drill them out.

Grinding can F-up the surrounding area, and drilling and cause problems if you get a rivet that spins.

You could try to wipe some Never-sieze under the heads of the rivets, but that may get messy.


Are you sure those are steel? They look aluminum. Many rivets are aluminum because it's softer and easier to compress.

Use a magnet, that should tell you if they're steel.




Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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Spencer_P
03-30-2006, 12:38 PM
Yup, they're steel. A magnet sticks real good to them. I believe all the buttonhead screws and cap screws are stainless steel; will they corrode aluminum just like regular steel?

Also, is "Never-Sieze" available at Lowes or Home Depot?

Firebird21
03-30-2006, 03:50 PM
I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think Stainless Steal will react with aluminum... But don't quote me on that! I will look into it.


N/S can be found at an automotive store. ie. CAP, NAPA, Auto Zone...



Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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Spencer_P
03-30-2006, 06:48 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Firebird21

I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think Stainless Steal will react with aluminum... But don't quote me on that! I will look into it.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Great, thanks! Since stainless steel screws are used fairly often (I think) with aluminum saber parts, it would be good to know if the screws are gonna corrode the pommels or blade holders or whatever.
Here's what Wikipedia says:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel#Galvanic_corrosion
Hmmm... how much "significantly larger" does the "less-noble" piece of material have to be, I wonder?

Firebird21
03-30-2006, 06:55 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
(eg. stainless-steel bolts in an aluminum block won't cause corrosion, but aluminum rivets on stainless steel sheet would rapidly corrode.)
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

According to that statement, you're safe.

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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james3
06-15-2006, 07:55 AM
xwing bud, do you think maybe we could get this into the threadindex even though it is in the Misc? Or maybe just a nice sticky?[;)]

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naashar
06-15-2006, 10:50 AM
Are the preparation steps identical for epoxy appliance paint? What sort of finish do you get, or should I just try to stick to the 3-step process outlined earlier regardless?

You don't need to see any identification.

**edit: Thanks, Firebird. 'preciate the info, main squabbles!

Firebird21
06-15-2006, 11:45 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by naashar

Are the preparation steps identical for epoxy appliance paint? What sort of finish do you get, or should I just try to stick to the 3-step process outlined earlier regardless?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


You can use whatever paint you want. Just read the manufacurer's recomendations as far as what grit paper will work best and what kind of primer, if any, should be used first.
All the basic prep steps should be the same.

As for the finnish, I've never used Epoxy Appliance paint so I couldn't tell you for sure, but I'm guessing it's going to most likely be Semi-Gloss.

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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Zhi-don
06-16-2006, 09:05 AM
I painted aircraft while I was in the Air Force, until they found I was allergic to paint fumes and solvents. That was the best tutorial I have seen since Air Force TO's. Ahh....those where the days.

The smell of zinc chromate.
The laughter at stupid airmen who left polyurethane paint in their De-vilbis sprayguns overnight. [it makes really ugly rubber balls]
The vats of paint remover for large jobs.
Crawling inside the t-tail of a C-141 looking for corrosion.
Sandblasting aircraft wheels.
Painting cars and bikes in the shop on off time.
Using black enamel on boots covered with paint drips to pass inspection. [and the guy who used paint remover to get it off and acid burned his feet when he tried to wear them later]

After they found out that all that was making me sick, I transferred to Communications. Not bad...they paid he $4700 to re-enlist.

Anyway enough time on memory road. Good job on the tutorial!

Zhi-don Aquintas
XO RL Sunrider Base
Treasurer/Head Instructor
Lightsaber training OCSWS

Firebird21
06-16-2006, 03:42 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Zhi-don

I painted aircraft while I was in the Air Force, until they found I was allergic to paint fumes and solvents. That was the best tutorial I have seen since Air Force TO's. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


Thanks. It's good to hear some feedback from those who have been in the trade.



I too have left paint in the gun over night... What a mess! It would usualy take me about an hr to clean it all out. I'd try to stay clear of the boss on those days. lol

My wife said she always had the oddest convorsations with me after a busy day painting. But I never got stoned off the crap.
That just goes to show you that sniffing paint ain't worth it! It skips the high and goes right to killing brain cells!


That paint stripper on the boot story is funny! [:D]

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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naashar
06-16-2006, 03:52 PM
OMG, I must've repressed my military-painting memories...

Mixing 50gal drums of "Haze-gray"...making vats and vats of Non-Skid...needlegun fights in 30degree pitch seas...

Good times![:D]

You don't need to see any identification.

WeirdoTransvestite
06-16-2006, 05:08 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Firebird21
That just goes to show you that sniffing paint ain't worth it! It skips the high and goes right to killing brain cells!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Try accidentally leaving a Kerosene can open in the garage, and not noticing the smell. You won't stop laughing.

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Firebird21
06-18-2006, 06:21 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by naashar in another topic

...the black enamel (or my application technique[:I]) seems to be full of air, as I've experienced the hardening of said air bubbles on the emitter after the heat-setting...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


Those “Air bubbles” that you are referring to are likely the common problem called “Solvent Popping”. This is more common with thicker and glossy paints.

Solvent Popping is caused when the evaporating solvents in the paint get trapped in the paint. This is caused by drying too fast and/or no air movement during the drying process. The paint essentially skins over before the solvent has a chance to escape so it bubbles up under the surface.

To prevent this from happening:

-Use thinner coats of paint and let them dry the appropriate amount of time before the next coat. (Usually 5-15min. depending on the temp, paint used, humidity, thickness of application, ect…)
Generally speaking, if you can touch it and not have any paint stick to your finger, it’s ready for its next coat.

-Let the paint “Set up” before trying to add heat to speed up the drying process. (about 5-15min) If you heat it up too fast the paint will skin over too quickly.

-Keep the heat under 140*F. Any higher and you will boil the solvent out and it will decrease the adhesion of the paint (causing chipping and pealing).

-Make sure the area is well ventilated. If there’s no place for the evaporated solvent to go, it’s going to go right back onto your paint. The paint must be able to breathe when drying.


Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sabre.gif http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/auto/car-smiley-032.gif Official Designated TCSS Jester! http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrinjackbox.gif