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Silent_Jedi
06-05-2008, 06:32 PM
Hey guys & gals;

I've wired up a Hasbro Obi Wan soundboard to a Corbin v2 and I'm using a DTDP switch and Lux III blue LED. The trouble I'm having is that I switch it on once, I get both light and sound, I switch it off...the LED goes off, but I still have sound. Turn it on again, the sound goes off and the LED comes on, then I turn it off again, and both the LED and sound go off. :confused: The only thing I haven't done yet is wire the shimmer effect, but I'm sure that's not nessesary.

Any thoughts?

vortextwist
06-05-2008, 07:48 PM
almost sounds like that one is set up for a momentary switch.

eastern57
06-05-2008, 07:50 PM
*smiles*

Silent, it's doing exactly what you wired it to do...

read... learn... enlightenment :)

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=372&highlight=hasbro

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch

vortextwist
06-05-2008, 07:52 PM
ahh, I reread it, yup exactly like eastern said.

Dark Helmet
06-05-2008, 07:56 PM
try this, desolder the soundboard from the switch and throw the switch, if nothing happens with the led, your + leads are on the wrong poles

eastern57
06-05-2008, 08:06 PM
sshhh, DH, we're seeing if the noob can swim ;)

Silent_Jedi
06-06-2008, 04:56 PM
*smiles*

Silent, it's doing exactly what you wired it to do...

read... learn... enlightenment :)

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=372&highlight=hasbro

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch

I was actually going off of this wireing design...
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=31&d=1201322587

using the DTDP slide switch sold here at the CSS. Before soldering, I did check my wireing and I'm pretty sure it was correct. I guess I might have to switch to that design to get it working... there goes my weekend. Was trying to get it to work in a graflex I made and use it as the pin on the control box, but I might use one of my tactile switches and disguise it somewhere, maybe one of the bubbles in the control box.

eastern57
06-06-2008, 06:49 PM
Okay, I apologize for giving you a hard time :) I'll climb out of my own @$$ now...

What I was hinting at, is that you have a Latching-controlled Driver and Momentary-controlled Sound board. And while the DPDT slider switch matches the driver control - the momentary control will never be in sync. Know what I mean?

In other words, your two boards have to match, to make your set up work, you would need two switches...


...Welcome to the forums...

MaverickJsmith
06-07-2008, 02:52 AM
Yeah the Joe Jedi's are momentary. You could wire up the driver and board in parallel and leave the Joe Jedi board with the switch in the on position. They'll both turn on and off in sync that way. Really wouldn't be too hard, in theory on a wiring plan of course. All you'd have to do was have the one switch turn the whole circuit on and off. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about any of this.

Maverick 8)

Arm on Fire
06-07-2008, 05:36 AM
Maverick, I dont think hes using a joe jedi, hes using a hasbro. also a joe jedi is not momentary its latching.

Silent_Jedi
06-07-2008, 05:02 PM
Nope, not a Joe Jedi (Though I have been making another saber using Arm's diagram), but a Walmart bought Ep2 Obi Wan saber. I'm thinking maybe getting a latching SPST button for the LED and using a momentary SPST for the sound, putting it under the bubble board with springs pushing up, making one big button and hideing those ugly buttons. Going to Radio Shack tommorow.

MaverickJsmith
06-07-2008, 06:12 PM
Doh! This is what I get for posting at 3 am :roll: And I know Joe Jedi's arent momentary, thats why I said leave the board switched on :D

Anywho, momentary Hasbro board, eep. Not sure what to say now XD

Maverick