MR FX Sound Boards

[felix142]

I recall back when Tim had the Luke ROTJ sound boards in stock, the product detail was accompanied by a photo of it that diagrammed the wiring. Is that photo anywhere in the Forums? I've been looking for it on and off for days.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

It's in the Cutaway Views and Wiring Schematics under the topic "MR FX Sound Modules""

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=1023

[felix142]

Thanks Jay.

[_Reaver_]

Here's my question about wiring the MR soundboard - where would the buckpuck go in that diagram? I'm assuming between the pos and neg to LED and the LED. Would that be correct?

[eastern57]

You wouldn't need a buck puck. People use pucks and resistors if they're going run an LED separate from the sound board... and mostly with the joe jedi boards (FX-constructicon kit), because its really weak for driving LEDs.

[_Reaver_]

Thanks for the input! I'm actually debating now whether to run the LED off the board vs separately. I'm not sure if there is a benefit to either over the other. I know I'd love to run a Lux V (although I'd have to upgrade my electronics, and I think even if I run the LED separately, it might fry a MR board), but my saber screams for a red LED, and no one makes a Lux V yet...

[eastern57]

if you want red or red/orange - they're PLENTY bright, even if you run it off an mr it's still PLENTY bright.

This is just a lux3 r/o run off an MR board (under driven)... no blade film just the stock MR difuser...

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/eastern57/Anakin%20custom/lit2.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/eastern57/Anakin%20custom/lit3.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

There isn't a red lux V because there is no need for one...the red, red/o, and amber Lux III's put out 140, 190 and 110 lumens when properly driven.

[_Reaver_]

So what do you think, is there any plus or minus to running the LED from the MR sound card versus a separate line? Seems to me to be 6 of one, half a dozen of the other...

[vortextwist]

way less wireing if you run them off the mr board. I remember when my bro used a corbin board for the led and mr for sound, that was a wireing nightmare. If you want it simple just run it off the mr.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I have run at least three reds directly off the MR boards, and I liked every one of them. I also like the red/o I put in "Agony", and that is just a resisitor set-up there, lighting up a 3/4" blade.

I'd run it right off the leads from the MR board.

[Count Malik]

I might try to use a yoda MR fx board for a friends saber. If I can find the time. LOL!

[vortextwist]

yoda's are a little difficult since the clash sensor is mounted to the led strip, I used one for a bit but the darn thing was so hard to solder to the wires.

[Novastar]

There isn't a red lux V because there is no need for one...the red, red/o, and amber Lux III's put out 140, 190 and 110 lumens when properly driven.However, there are the K2 Reds/Ambers/etc., which have a max cont. curr. of 700ma.

This means that they are technically "over-driven" by most any MRFX board given the correct wiring. I have an Amber K2 wired up in an MR board and it's pretty nice.

That being said, a Lux III Red-O driven by an MR (so, about 900ma is going on in there)... is just fine. Ask whomever bought that "Magnus" TCSS + sink tube saber I sold for $100 a while back (I can't remember who bought it). Anyhow... it was probably the best Red-O I ever ran across, and it looked just dandy bright in the MR.

I'm sure it would have looked even NICER in the Flange III red saber, but... who cares... plenty of LEDs to come! ;)