going to run a lexon III off of a 616 Question

[morpheus1977]

this is a tempory fix untill I can get my vader FX sound board in. I am going to wire my red luxon III directly off of a 616 what my question is do I still need the resistor that originally came with my lux III? (the white rectangle one??)(I know the light will be a little dim but like I said this is a tempory fix)

[Eandori]

What is a 616? I have no idea what that is.

Unless you have a circuit board that is built to regulate a SET amount of current to the LED... you will need a resistor with the luxeon LED. The size of the resistor is entirely dependant on the LED you use, and the battery you are driving it with.

A red luxeon III will work great anywhere between 700mA and 1500mA. It's forward voltage for that current range will be around 2.8v to 3.4v. Choose a resistor value that limits the current in your LED to the value you want.

[morpheus1977]

What is a 616? I have no idea what that is.

Unless you have a circuit board that is built to regulate a SET amount of current to the LED... you will need a resistor with the luxeon LED. The size of the resistor is entirely dependant on the LED you use, and the battery you are driving it with.

A red luxeon III will work great anywhere between 700mA and 1500mA. It's forward voltage for that current range will be around 2.8v to 3.4v. Choose a resistor value that limits the current in your LED to the value you want.
I could be calling it the wrong thing but its the ciruit board for the master replicas saber construction set.

[xl97]

What is a 616? I have no idea what that is.

Unless you have a circuit board that is built to regulate a SET amount of current to the LED... you will need a resistor with the luxeon LED. The size of the resistor is entirely dependant on the LED you use, and the battery you are driving it with.

A red luxeon III will work great anywhere between 700mA and 1500mA. It's forward voltage for that current range will be around 2.8v to 3.4v. Choose a resistor value that limits the current in your LED to the value you want.

Joe Jedi sound cards..or the Radio Shack Construction Set boards.. (same thing)

[morpheus1977]

I was going to run it with my current set up of 4 AAA powered to the circuit board then to the LED. I noticed with the MR Vader sound boards there is no resistor. Thats why I was asking if it was the same set up for the joe jedi boards.

[Darth_DevilGuy]

I wired mine with two 700 buckpucks and a 4AAA battery pack, you won't need the resistor if you run it directly off the board, but you won't get very impressive light from it.

[morpheus1977]

and thats another thing I have seen stuff about these buck pucks I have read various threads and I still have no idea what they are or how to use them LOL like......

[grayven]

I'm running a Rebel RGB off a 616 board. I'm using a power extender from erv. I got just under 500mA going to each Red and Blue LED's on the RGB. I'm using this for my Mara Jade Saber.

Grayven

[Eandori]

If you are using a buckpuck to drive the LED then no, you never need a resistor with that. A resistor is meant to limit the current. A buckpuck does exactly that... limits the current to a certain value. But much better then a resistor, because the current stays the SAME value as the battery drops.

UNLESS.... the battery voltage drops below 1v higher then your LED. If your LED requires 3.9v forward then your buckpuck battery input must be at least 5v. So the 4x AA setup with 2x 700mA buckpucks is a bad idea because it's not enough voltage for those two buckpucks to do their job. You need a bigger battery!!

With a resistor setup, smallest battery you can use....

With a current driver board (buckpuck, crystal focus), use a larger battery for max brightness throughout the runtime.

[morpheus1977]

so If I wanted to run a lux III directly off of a joe jedi board or MR vader board do I need that one white resistor?

[LeMoel]

Not if you use a buck puck

http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=5171&link_str=240::241::1397&partno=3021-D-N-1000

Now what a buck puck is :3021-D-N-1000 is designed to deliver a fixed current output of 1000mA regardless of the number of LEDs connected and is ideally suited for driving arrays of Luxeon LEDs.

It also keeps your led bright right till the battery is out , instead of starting to dim more and more as the battery dies out more and more. so constant brightness

its a really good driver to use, ive used it its sweet...
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GrAyven make sure you post your Mara Jade im really looking forward to seeing it. I almost have all my parts to make my Endor RGB purple saber like you did im just awaiting the ARALDITE INSTANT CLEAR - SYRINGE PACK , then im goin g to attempt the dome with it.Iam glad your going with purple for your mara jade theres too many red mara jades out there

heres some pictures of my purple testing so far
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=1&pictureid=29

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=1&pictureid=28

[Novastar]

so If I wanted to run a lux III directly off of a joe jedi board or MR vader board do I need that one white resistor?You do not need any additional resistor to drive a Luxeon III off of an MR Vader, Luke, Ani, 616, whatever. The resistors ARE already there, and located on the board.

As far as I know, 100% of the MR boards (of any kind) will "spit out" about 900ma or whatever. Something akin to this. Not 1500... not 2000... not 300... 900... TOTAL! In the case of the RGB (Joe / Const. kit), yes, obviously Grayven is on the money, did you see his tutorials, if not GO CLICKY... because R is like (essentially) 300ma, G = 300ma, etc. I mean, not EXACTLY--Grayven will tell you the exacts, but... essentially...

...all MR boards spit 900ma at you.

SOOOO... Luxeon III "lightsides" like about 1A (1000ma). So you're dandy fine. Luxeon III "darksides" like about 1.5A (1500ma), so... you're still dandy fine although sure, they would be a bit under-driven.

So what.

You'll still have yourself a merry little Xmas. ;)

[morpheus1977]

You do not need any additional resistor to drive a Luxeon III off of an MR Vader, Luke, Ani, 616, whatever. The resistors ARE already there, and located on the board.

As far as I know, 100% of the MR boards (of any kind) will "spit out" about 900ma or whatever. Something akin to this. Not 1500... not 2000... not 300... 900... TOTAL! In the case of the RGB (Joe / Const. kit), yes, obviously Grayven is on the money, did you see his tutorials, if not GO CLICKY... because R is like (essentially) 300ma, G = 300ma, etc. I mean, not EXACTLY--Grayven will tell you the exacts, but... essentially...

...all MR boards spit 900ma at you.

SOOOO... Luxeon III "lightsides" like about 1A (1000ma). So you're dandy fine. Luxeon III "darksides" like about 1.5A (1500ma), so... you're still dandy fine although sure, they would be a bit under-driven.

So what.

You'll still have yourself a merry little Xmas. ;)

THATS what I was trying to find out LOL. Well it looks like I will be getting my hands on a vader by the end of the week so I wont have to worry about the 616 any way LOL. Thanks every body for the advise I really apritiate it...

[DarthFender]

Nova,

Correct me if I'm wrong, but Joe Jedi only spits out 300 MA at a time. Because it only runs one color at a time, and there is no way to "hack" it to drive all thre at the same time. So, Grayven's tricolor is running 300mA to split among all three colors with some wasted on the resistor on the red led.

I would really love to be wrong about that. But that is my understanding of how it works.

[Dark Navel]

I'd also like to know if the 616 is spitting out 900MA or really 300MA (per color).

I want to use a 616 with a LUX III...Question is do I need a puck or don't I. I have read that no resistor is needed but it will be underdriven @ 900ma.
Now if its driven at only 300ma, per color...ahh crap now I'm confused.

I'll get right down to it:

616 board
Red LUX III
Standard 3 aaa batteries @ 1.2V

1) Will this work using the resistor already on the board? Will it only be 300ma due to the tri-color setup that is already setup on the board? (No buckpuck needed but the LED will be slightly underdriven at 900mA since all MR boards spit out at this number OR are we at 300mA because this board is used traditionally with a 3W LED that you physically have to flip a switch to point to a particular color in the tri-color led??)

2) Same setup but use 4 AAA batteries or 4.8V. The question here is to do what Arm on Fire did with his Fury saber and use (2) 700 Buckpucks wired in tandom so I could get the full capacity out of the LUX III that wants a target mA of 1400 while staying under the 6V inorder not to fry the 616 board.

I'm %%^%& confused, and mad because I suck at figuring this stuff out. I can help someone who's on the brink of death but I can't figure this crap out..I suck!

I've stolen this once and I'll do it again, "I'm electronically retarded".

[grayven]

Yes the 616 put out only 300 at a time. What I did in my Mara was I used a power extender to boost the output to the RED and Blue that are powered at the same time. To drive a single color that might work for you.

On the Joe Jedi, yes I am really under powering the RGB when I wash the colors together, by splitting that 300 to multiple colors. But I have to say its visible hard to tell which is brighter, besides change in Hugh.


Grayven

[Dark Navel]

Erv's booster huh? Hmm .hmmm. hmmmm. I wonder if that will work..Or I can go the route that Arm on Fire went with (2) pucks and 4.8V..(Seemed as though his LUX was really bright) -or- re-read what Marsupial's card can do or wait till Corbin's board is released.

Crap..I have a good design and the parts but now I have to wait until I can figure out how this is going to work.

Thanks for the info.