Plecter LED Driver versions & wiring (hasbro)

[xl97]

I got a Plecter LED Driver (Dimmer) of the internet, and Im looking at it..and it doesnt seem to be the same as the in the pic on Ervs site? I see he mentions a 2.0 & a 2.5 version (for manuals/tuts).. Im not sure which I actually acquired

doesnt have the cylindrical part in the center of the board..its more of a tan/brown box...


anyways.. Iv been searching.. (trying to at least) and have found MANY different diagrams and methods.. and I think have found a way or at least this was my attempt.

Can anybody look it over and see if I have made any mistakes?

the question(s) I have are..

1.) I am totally unsure of what type of battery pack I need/want, I know space is the most defining, but other than that I would like a long run time (so more mA's)?? is what I need to choose?

2.) I think I touched on it before but didnt understand fully the different between or why you would choose a 7.2V over a 4.8 option?

outside from what in the image/diagram... I will be adding a few accent LED's as well.. how would those fit in?

directly run from the battery pack? (after main on/off switch) and then resistored?

Thank for anyone with some feedback.

take care.

diagram:

http://www.dmstudios.net/misc/setup_1.jpg

PLI can be 'switched' or not (optional I believe) to check the level or have it constantly shown...

I also want to ensure I am using the correct button (types) needed for this set-up..

looking to ultimately

3.) have the LED driven by plecter board, with FoC from hasbro fed into Plector board....(so no off-on for LED garbage)

4.) want to have manual push button/momentary button to activate SHIMMER effect..

5.) re-charge port & kill port/switch? are these the SAME thing? or two different 'ports'? Like if I add a re-charge port to my battery pack of choice.. there is nothing in it while in use..correct? (empty/open hole/port)... and when i put int he CHARGER plug..it kills the power to everything else..and JUST charges the battery pack again..right?

or

is there another port I need to put a kill plug into and then put in the charger plug into another howl to charge? (more holes if needed this way eh?)

I looked/read Corbins thread on it..Erv chimed in..but Im just un-clear.


thanks again

edit: sorry..this should have probably went in the hilt/wiring forum..

[DarthFender]

XL ,
Everything looks good for your diagram. I would use a dpst momentary switch for the poweron poweroff. If you can find a tactile version of one so much the better.

The PLI and accent LED's will not work with a momentary switch.

You cannot use a 7.2v battery pack unless you use a voltage regulator for the Hasbro board. I would use a 4.8 NiMH rechargeable. that is close to what those boards used anyway (4.5 alkaline).

The recharge port is also the killswitch. When you plug in the charger or a dummy charger connecter, the negative lead to the electronics gets disconnected. When you take out the connecter the negative lead is reconnected.

Hope that helps.

[xl97]

Thanks for the reply.. :)

what are some DPST swithes/buttons? slide type buttons? (6 pole?)

are they physicall different? or internally different? (I guess I havent paid much attaention to the DPst, DPDT, SPST..etc stuff)

Also..

Im not sure I understand on the PLI & acent LED comment (sorry).. can you explain further?

Cant I just wire the PLI straight to the power supply? (no button/switch at all?)
or are you saying that if I DO use a button/switch it HAS to be a latching type switch?
(the lines to/from the PLI look confusing..put they would be direct, and so far is to be always on)

4.8 NiMH.. awesome..

I actually have this one ordered:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/48V-AAA-1000mAh-NIMH-Rechargeable-battery-pack--P172.aspx
(which is 1" x 1" x 2" in size and will fit fine)

I would like to get this one however:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/48V-AA-2600mAh-NIMH-Rechargeable-battery-pack--P170.aspx

Im assuming the ONLY difference here is the RUN time I would get between the two?
(4 inches long...hmmmm..)

and yes this has helped immensely.. thanks.


on a side note.. I will post a pic of my Plecter Driver/Dimmer to show.. I was informed is a 2.5 version..

thanks again..

[DarthFender]

XL,

Since the Plecter board does not drive the accent LEDS, you will need a latching switch to keep them on. otherwise they will just light up while you are holding the button. For the PLI this set-up might be optimal, only on while you hold the button. You could wire those direct to the battery (after the kill switch/recharge port) but they will be a constant drain on the battery unless you have the kill switch in place. And they will remain on even while the saber is off.

About switches...
DPST switch will have 4 contacts that complete 2 circuits.

DPDT will have 6 contacts that complete 4 circuits. Two circuits will be normally open and two will be normally closed. Most of the sabersmiths here use the DPDT switches but don't use the second throw for anything. This could be used for a blinking LED that is on when the saber is off.

About batteries...
The only difference (other than the physical size) is the runtime. 4AAA pack will run about an hour while drawing an Amp. The 4AA pack will run for about 2 and a half hours while drawing an Amp. Obviously, your mileage may vary. But in the sam saber you can expect to get about 2.5x the runtime with the AA's.

Sounds like a complicated saber design. I hope it comes out well for you.

[xwingband]

The dimmer uses a latching switch anyway...

I don't see accent LEDs though??? Why is that being talked about?

What do you want the PLI to do? You could hook it to a switch. Or the way you have it provided it was wired correct would always be on except when you charge or use the kill key.

[xl97]

Thanks guys.. yeah in the shower this AM.. I realizewd the PLI was wired BEFORE the switch.. (meaing ON ALL THE TIME even is Saber is OFF)



X- accent LEDS are being discussed because I mentioned it in the thread.. and stated they were NOT in the diagram currently..

to re-cap the Plecter Driver CAN NOT work as I have it now...correct? Ther is no way to use a momentary switch to power the driver...it DOES in fact need to be a latching switch or some kind? (DAMN) lol was hoping to be able to use on of the tactile switches I have..

I havent fully decided if I wantthe PLI on full time (when saber is on) of just a momentary button to check the battery level... I "CAN" use a momentary for that ...correct?.. suggestions.. the constant pull of power doesnt bother me.



So since the driver board doesnt drive the accent LEDs.. (and now that I have to change to a latching switch) I can just wire any accent LEDS after the main on/off switch... since they will be getting power constantly by the latching switch conversion on the Driver board?

Do they make tactile switches in latching type?

Thanks