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View Full Version : Comparing Luxeons (V, K2, III)



Eandori
04-28-2008, 05:16 PM
Hey Guys,

I made a quick YouTube video and showed a few different luxeon families next to each other in electrically and optically identical sabers. So you can see the brightness differences. Note that I drove each of the respective luxeon types at the max current the saber community uses. Also note that I turned off all blade flicker.

Note, the Luxeon V's were a LOT brighter in person. It didn't come out as much in the video... but you can still easily tell.

Here's the video. Thoughts?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ClmNLYH75s



Cheers,

virus692
04-28-2008, 05:36 PM
I have a thought "too much free time"


No really that is a cool video.

good comparison.

DarthFender
04-28-2008, 09:45 PM
One Question, got a green luxIII? It would be really cool to see all three in the same shot. III K2 and V. The Holy Trinity.

Eandori
04-28-2008, 10:51 PM
No, I don't have a green lux III unfortunately. But I suspect a green lux III at 1 amp compared to a green K2 at 1.5amps would be similar to the Greens in my video. Where the K2 was obviously brighter.

One of the reasons I wanted to make this quick comparison video was to make it clear that lumen ratings DO MATTER. It's obvious from the video. Blue luxeon V is like 45 lumens at 700mA. Blue Luxeon III is like 30 lumens. You would expect that the V is brighter then the III and my video clearly shows it is.

Just like the greens. The Luxeon V is rated at 160 lumens at 700mA and the K2 is 130 lumens at 1.5 amps. You would expect the Luxeon V to be brighter... and it obviously is.

Hopefully, this video dispells some of the myth that lumen ratings don't matter. They DO!

Having said that, not all LED's are the same. I'm sure you could have two LED's of the same generation, technology and color where one of them is brighter then the other. Or deeper in that specific color etc. But the point is... the lumen ratings are a generalized estimate of what you should be getting and they appear true. At least... from my own testing I believe it's true.

Novastar
04-28-2008, 11:26 PM
Great video Edwin...

I think the concern with lumens that people have is... they look at "30 lumens of color X" and then see "190 lumens of color Y"...

...and assume that color X is just pathetic, ridiculous, and would be a dim piece of garbage. Which just isn't true.

Red-O Lux III = 190 lumens. But it's not like 6x as bright as a 30 lumen blue or whatever, heheh. Sure, WE know this... but imagine what happens when people who are new come in and freak out.

Especially at Royal Blue. Royal Blue has got to be the most under-rated color. It's awesome, I love it.

Hasid Lafre
04-29-2008, 12:11 AM
Yes but we have learned a while ago that lumen numbers mean diddally for what we do, imagen this how many lumens do you lose in the optics? in the blade to light it up.

Ive lived by these words of Xwing, screw lumens and go with the color you like, now we know the k2 is better than the III(for some colors, to me not so much with the greens) and the luxV is the best of the best.

But to me that 40 lumen luxV blue is brighter than the green thats rated at what 160 - 180 something or so lumens?

To me blues are just brighter than any other color and the royal blue is just the weaksause of blues to my eyes. I used to have an amber led in my saber driven off the mr board and I wasent dissapointed with it like alot of other people are. What I like about the blues(sans royal blue) is the room filling light that the colors create and the greens and reds just dont do that for me. same is said for other people, if you see a color that looks brighter to you than another then go with that color.

Novastar
04-29-2008, 01:32 AM
That is almost exactly what I just said.

DARTH KALEL
04-29-2008, 02:41 AM
I would like to see some seoul P4 whites with filters compared to the 5's and K2

Eandori
04-29-2008, 09:04 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes but we have learned a while ago that lumen numbers mean diddally for what we do, imagen this how many lumens do you lose in the optics? in the blade to light it up.

Ive lived by these words of Xwing, screw lumens and go with the color you like, now we know the k2 is better than the III(for some colors, to me not so much with the greens) and the luxV is the best of the best.

But to me that 40 lumen luxV blue is brighter than the green thats rated at what 160 - 180 something or so lumens?

To me blues are just brighter than any other color and the royal blue is just the weaksause of blues to my eyes. I used to have an amber led in my saber driven off the mr board and I wasent dissapointed with it like alot of other people are. What I like about the blues(sans royal blue) is the room filling light that the colors create and the greens and reds just dont do that for me. same is said for other people, if you see a color that looks brighter to you than another then go with that color.
You missed the whole point again!

You can't say screw lumens! They do matter and my video makes it obvoius. Note that I was comparing blue to blue, and green to green. The red/green at the end was just for fun. To see 2 really bright sabers side by side.

If you say "screw lumens" you really missed the whole point that inside a color it does matter. 45 lumens of blue is MORE then 30 lumens of blue and you CAN see the difference with your bare eyes. In fact, it's very obvious! 160-180 lumens of green is MORE Then 130 lumens of green when comparing the V and the K2. It DOES matter and it's very obvious in person.

The point you guys are making, is don't look at 150 lumens of red and think that it will be 5 times brighter then that 30 lumen blue. I agree with that, you are right. The 150 lumen red IS brighter then the blue... but not like 5x. However, saying that you can completely ignore lumens is NOT TRUE and it's going too far.

Malaki Skywalker
04-29-2008, 09:20 AM
The V is SUPER BRIGHT, but there are still many other LED's out there that pump out an HUMONGOUS amount of lumen to be experimented with, I hope to start using Tri-Rebels when Tim gets the optic in, 2 greens and a white looks very hopeful! :D

Great comparison Eandori ;) Thanks for posting it :)

SpectreT65
04-29-2008, 10:57 AM
I'll take what Novastar said a half-step further.

Lumens are an absolute, but light meters are the only things which give us an objective viewpoint of those Lumens. The human eye, like a camera, has a bias. Reds are the least damaging to Rhodopsin, which is why they're most often used as pilot instrument lights. Our eyes tolerate it a lot better than the greens and blues which Rhodopsin absorbs. Reds don't travel as far, visually, either.

I'm not an expert by any means, I've just always been fascinated with our monochromatic low-light vision. I couldn't give you hard data on nanometers and wavelengths and which one impacts the rods and which one impacts the cones more powerfully, I just had that tidbit of trivia kicking around my skull looking for an outlet.

Which is why I was happy to see you compare apples to apples (binning notwithstanding), and bring us a good sampling of K2's to V's. I, too, would like to see other types of LED's subjected to similar, but your demonstration give folks a good idea what to expect (relatively) from the stock Tim carries.

Royal Blue side note: I got my replacement Royal Blue Lux V yesterday, and threw it on the Crash Test Dummy (my prototyping saber, where I've honed my wiring and soldering skills) with a 7.2V NiMH battery and a 1K Buckpuck. Overdriven like that, it was brutally bright. It did not successfully challenge a 60-watt Reveal brand bulb, but when I put the lights out, it brightly and evenly lit the room.

Novastar, can I get an 'Amen' when I say, "Royal Blue FTW!" :D

Novastar
04-29-2008, 11:25 AM
Right. My point was exactly this... that looking at 190 Red-O vs. a 30 Blue... well--if you just went on NUMBERS, you'd think "Well, the Red-O must be 6x as bright."

And that's just silly. Because it isn't.

So *NO*, you don't just say "screw lumens", but in a way... you do. You do so when you're thinking:

"Gee, should I choose red? (<-- looks at 190 lumen spec.)
Or, gee, what about Royal Blue? I like that color... (<-- looks at this... <1 lumen stuff & 620mw or whatnot)"

At that point, the guy should choose what color he wants... and THEN start comparing the lumens... while also minding his/her battery solution... while also minding his/her current driving solution.

If everyone picked on lumens alone... about a year ago--everyone would have Red-O Lux III. And now, it'd be like "get a white p4" or whatever the latest bastard is.

So again, if you compare lumens UNIVERSALLY... you're just screwing yourself. You *MUST* compare them to their own color to get it "right" so-to-speak.

Ultra said the same thing on fx-sabers back in... 2006/2007(?)... I can't remember.

Sohryu76
04-29-2008, 12:05 PM
so wait...
lumens of different colors dont mean much when compared to eachother?
so a red orange with 130 lumens doesnt mean its going to be tons brighter than another color of a much lower lumen rating?

Im not sure i Really understand...

DARTH KALEL
04-29-2008, 12:10 PM
well actually it is, you can take tinted filters and apply them over the blades , at 35% the blue only shows at the hilt, the o red will shine up to 65% without losing color in the blade. at 70% the o red loses a little illumination about half way up. The lumens do matter!!! and by the way the blues are extremely week, I can see my o red outside in the day, good luck with any blue outside before dusk. But I have seen the P7 style in blue 435 lumens, and you can barely look at the blade in lower light conditions, it really hurts. As soon as I get my latest LED i will post some comparrison pics. But if you have never seen any of these LED's in person, yeah the blue is easier to see but with a keen eye you can tell it's much weeker than anything else sold.

My 1 watt mini maglite saber for the little one with purple filters is brighter than the lux 3 blue, it's so sad. But when someone starts selling the rebels mounted on stars then we can really get to work, as for me i'm sold on the seoul LED's the p4 is great, brighter than anything else i've used even with filters, and the P7 OH MY GOD, 740 lumnes on a 6xAA with a 1000 buckpuck a little under but still too bright to really use, and same heat as the lux 5
We should all be able to say goodbye to the lux's soon, my buddy has a blue P4 on the way so we will be posting and showing this great product, hopefully tim will have them soon, uses the same optics as the lux 3 PLEASE TIM I hate sending more and more money to Japan!!!!!

Thanks again to Eandori for the vid, great work i'm glad somebody has shown some LED's on par, The 5's and rebels are so bright but like I said watch out for the seoul brothers lol

LeMoel
04-29-2008, 12:12 PM
Either way I appreciate your comparison ... I do feel that the Luxeon Rebel green is on par with the Lux 5 or even brighter than it. The Luxeon blue rebel is the brightest blue no dout in my eyes.. Probly same for the royal blue rebel too being the brightest royal blue.

I dont know forsure but i feel that the Luxeon rebel cyan would be on par with the Lux 5 cyan

These rebels are crazy bright,but not to take anything away from the 5 watt cuz there beautiful also..

I even feel the the 3 watts are decently bright,bright nough to make a saber anyway

xwingband
04-29-2008, 01:08 PM
so wait...
lumens of different colors dont mean much when compared to eachother?
so a red orange with 130 lumens doesnt mean its going to be tons brighter than another color of a much lower lumen rating?

Im not sure i Really understand...

Well... here's some physics. (Yay! my exam is in two days!) A lumen is based on one frequency (a yellowish green frequency that our eyes see very well). So by it's very nature it's hard to compare different colors to what our eye will see which have their own bias.

I think the point is that lumens are best when within the same colors. Then only as a ballpark for comparing others.

Eandori
04-29-2008, 02:31 PM
Well... here's some physics. (Yay! my exam is in two days!) A lumen is based on one frequency (a yellowish green frequency that our eyes see very well). So by it's very nature it's hard to compare different colors to what our eye will see which have their own bias.

I think the point is that lumens are best when within the same colors. Then only as a ballpark for comparing others.
Exactly! You guys got it!

I would LOVE to have some Seoul's/Rebels. I have some P4-240 lumen white Seouls in the mail right now and I'm pretty excited to try them out. I'm itching to get a purple filter on that bad boy and have the best purple blade since my Windu MR.

DARTH KALEL
04-29-2008, 04:06 PM
eandori you will love the purple I used two of tims filters just to see and I got a great looking purple I have been trully amazed at the P4. I'm awaiting mine too should be here tomorrow or thursday, but my buddy who is a cop has them in his flashlight, I just used a makeshift emitter and mounted the blade to it. Even with three filters two dark purple and a red it was still considerablly brighter than anything else I have seen, even the orange red. After seeing that I will probably stick to the whites and filters, especially now that lee has those glass filters they are great.
Just a quick question I put a mirrored tip instead of an alluminum disc in my blade and it's alot better than the alluminum by far is everyone else having the same discovery? I don't get any flaring at the tip at all and a nice even blade with just a double wrap of corbins wrap.

Eandori
04-29-2008, 04:21 PM
Yeah, I had the same experience. Mirror tip is best. I got a few small pieces of Mylar from Erv' on one of my older blades and that ended up making the best mirror tips so far. I've been using the sticky Aluminum disc from TCSS lately. It's not as good, but it's decent. I always make sure to get it as flat as possible, and I shine it up a bit on my shirt before I glue the tip.

SpectreT65
04-29-2008, 04:27 PM
I was pretty underwhelmed with just Corbin Film; I just added some poly film (double wrap inside the double wrap of Corbin, or "Erv' Style", as I now think of it. Same style Edwin uses in his, I believe.) As to the reflector, I don't know, as I've just bought the complete blade assemblies from Tim, and I don't know what reflector he uses.

Darth_DevilGuy
04-29-2008, 04:46 PM
tim's have an aluminum disk thats somewhat reflective, I'm going to see about the partially reflective one ultra uses as it allows some light into the tip which I really like for the realism effect.

DARTH KALEL
04-29-2008, 04:54 PM
yeah my buddy always just gets the complete blade and the mirror one I just put together is great I just scratched a little hole in the center of the mirror and when I say small I mean small, but it lights up the tip as well.

Eandori
04-29-2008, 05:02 PM
Spectre, you said:
I was pretty underwhelmed with just Corbin Film; I just added some poly film (double wrap inside the double wrap of Corbin, or "Erv' Style", as I now think of it. Same style Edwin uses in his, I believe.) As to the reflector, I don't know, as I've just bought the complete blade assemblies from Tim, and I don't know what reflector he uses.
2 Wraps of Polypropolene is not enough, you need to make it like 4 feet of it. So it wraps on itself MANY times. That will REALLY even out the blade.

xwingband
04-29-2008, 05:04 PM
tim's have an aluminum disk thats somewhat reflective, I'm going to see about the partially reflective one ultra uses as it allows some light into the tip which I really like for the realism effect.

Ultra uses silver contact paper last I knew. He just undercuts the disk to the size of the blade. That bleeds some light into the tip.

That's the next best solution IMO. I've been cutting discs out of semi-reflective mylar (the kind of stuff electronics are bagged in). I then just superglue them on the back. Two layers of that and it's golden... reflects light back and lights up the tip great.

DARTH KALEL
04-29-2008, 05:04 PM
I just ordered a bunch of colored polyp, defferent than the last ones I tried, those were to reflective, this new stuff in just clear colored polyp film, has anybody tried this before, the other stuff I had gave great color in night but in the day you couldn't even see the light, still color but no visible light. I will not try another blade without a mirror they just look so great nice and even just with the corbin film, no blade flare at the tip.

Darth_DevilGuy
04-29-2008, 05:11 PM
Ultra uses silver contact paper last I knew. He just undercuts the disk to the size of the blade. That bleeds some light into the tip.

That's the next best solution IMO. I've been cutting discs out of semi-reflective mylar (the kind of stuff electronics are bagged in). I then just superglue them on the back. Two layers of that and it's golden... reflects light back and lights up the tip great.
where do you get it? I have some from hard drives and ram and such at work but its all crinkled and printed on in a lot of cases.

SpectreT65
04-29-2008, 09:37 PM
Spectre, you said:
2 Wraps of Polypropolene is not enough, you need to make it like 4 feet of it. So it wraps on itself MANY times. That will REALLY even out the blade.I just checked - you're right. I used closer to five or six wraps. About 21". Thin or thick-walled, that was good enough. blade is far more even than an Ultra, and kept hints of the Corbin "coring".

Novastar
05-01-2008, 12:16 AM
Reflective aluminum tape (a roll of it) is great for tips. First off... it's already sticky--duh. Second, you'd have a roll of it, so... it would last nearly forever, and thirdly... it's like... what... $6 to $10 for a roll? I guess? I mean I don't remember, but I bought the roll long ago.

FOURTHLY... (and listen close, don't get confused)

Use it on the inside of the BLADE where a certain portion of your blade will quite obviously be disguised/hidden when in the blade mount. Since this part is not seen... it might as well reflect BACK any light that would otherwise go out the sides.

Much like the mirrored tip... it doesn't make some WILD and INSANE difference that will just blind you like the Batman sky signal, but... it certainly cannot hurt.

I've mentioned this many a time on threads, but it's worth saying again. I learned this from Corbin when he was making the sabers for BOP I, and although it wasn't used on all of the sabers... *I* think it makes a difference. Small... but... good. :)

Hasid Lafre
05-01-2008, 02:35 AM
Its like that on my bros corbin blade that was made by yoda and I dident notice much of a difference, all I know is a single wrap looks a hell of alot better than a double wrap.

DARTH KALEL
05-01-2008, 03:17 AM
really? I haven't seen just a single wrap but the double wrap looks pretty good.

Hasid Lafre
05-01-2008, 04:02 AM
My double wrap looked like crap and adding polyP to it dident help it much at all. I couldent take pics of it for ****, they all looked like poo.

Iam sticking with just plain nylon tubing, that hasent dissapointed me.

LeMoel
05-01-2008, 04:32 AM
When you guys say "mylar" for your reflective tip do you mean Metallic mylar?

http://www.designyourwall.com/store/images/P/201-4527_big.jpg

OR the clear stuff that is close to polyproplene that Vadeblade use to use in his blades?

Eandori
05-01-2008, 09:23 AM
LeMoel, yes metallic Mylar. Like in your picture. That's the one. :)

Hasid Lafre I think you MUST HAVE done something wrong when you added the polypropolene. It's not one of those "makes a small difference, hard to tell" kind of things. It's a HUGE DIFFERENCE to how evenly lit your blade is. Here.... check out the video I made on exactly this subject.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyJVyRDm0Y4&feature=user

Hasid Lafre
05-01-2008, 03:12 PM
Yeah I was one of the first ones (as far as I could tell) to try it a while back, I got corbin film in a double wrap, and a roll of ultras diy film that he was doing a while back.

And the results were crap, results with myst the utra film were crap, results with just corbin film were crap, Iam sticking to plain nylon tubes for my diffusers, if I want to get more out of it I will put some thing inside it cause I had better results that way than anyother way.

I seen your video and if you seen my blade you would of been impressed with its construction but the results were the crappiest blade ive ever seen.

Eandori
05-02-2008, 10:24 AM
Well, that's unfortunate. But if your desire is for an evenly lit lightsaber I would keep trying! Part of the trick is to get the polypropolene to lay as flat against the inner walls of the saber tube as you can. If it crickles/folds inside the tube that will really ruin the effect. Be sure to use around 4 feet of cellophane/polypropolene for the best effect.

Hasid Lafre
05-02-2008, 02:49 PM
I used the full 8 foot and the results got even worse when I tryed to cut it down to 4 foot.

I have had great results with evenly lit blades with regular blade tubes with a mirror tip.

Eandori
05-02-2008, 03:17 PM
perhaps you were usind the wrong stuff /shrug

I would have to see pictures of it

Hasid Lafre
05-02-2008, 03:55 PM
Sadly I removed then from my bucket. but this is a pic of my tcss thick walled blade with ultra film in it.

Best pic I could get of it, bad thing about cyans is they will alwase photograph that light blue when my cyan is a bin 2 so there should be more green in the pic.

lit room

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Star%20Wars/My%20Saber%20Stuff/TCSSstyleBladewithPolyPinlitroomnof.jpg

total Darkness

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Star%20Wars/My%20Saber%20Stuff/SD530359.jpg

This was with a thin walled blade, double wrap of corbin film and an mr mace diffuser tube.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Star%20Wars/My%20Saber%20Stuff/TCSSThinWalledBladeMRdiffuser2wr-1.jpg

This turned out way better than my dual film blade just so you can get an idea.

LeMoel
05-02-2008, 10:38 PM
Yeah I've tryed I think almost every blade combination testing myself and the Corbin/polypropelene did impress me but I still didnt really like it. just Corbin film I didnt like either. But i just love the ultra blade

Hasid are you sure you used exact ultra blade because there dam even and bright? or did you use polyproplene only?

and also "if" you used Ultra film and corbin film for your "duel blade/erv's style blade ,that could have given you crappier results cuz poly p is better for the combo ive noticed

but i agree with u when u talk about the nylon blade cuz it is cool

Hasid Lafre
05-03-2008, 12:42 AM
A while ago ultra was offering DIY film, and I grabed a roll of it and its the same film he uses in his blades.

Eandori
05-03-2008, 02:30 PM
That might not at all be the same stuff I'm using in my blades. It might have very different properties then the stuff I'm using.

Hasid Lafre
05-03-2008, 05:45 PM
Its basicly the same thing as the gift wrap stuff, polyP, cello. all the same jazz. but crap tastic results no matter what I did.

Eandori
05-04-2008, 03:37 PM
Well... SOMETHING was going on. It's not like the entire universe and laws of physics suddenly folded in on themselves and your setup would simply not look right with the same components. SOMETHING happened.

I've never seen anything in real life or in video that's as evenly lit as luxeon sabers with Polypropolene. But if you don't like it and want to just use other stuff, all the power to you.

DARTH KALEL
05-04-2008, 03:41 PM
I used the thick wall with double wrap of corbin and 5' of poly roll with the mirrored tip, and it looks great, really even and bright, is ultra wrap really different than corbin.

Hasid Lafre
05-04-2008, 05:42 PM
yeah but the ultra film is basicly the same thing as polyP, cello, and the other type of stuff that has that same effect.

Count Malik
05-04-2008, 06:56 PM
So I just picked up a *BIG* roll of Polyp./celo. Besides the polycarbonate blade and the refector disk (etc.) and the blade tip what more do I need (thick walled)? One more question how do I correctly put on blade tips?:confused:

Er Dan Gill
05-04-2008, 07:51 PM
So I just picked up a *BIG* roll of Polyp./celo. Besides the polycarbonate blade and the refector disk (etc.) and the blade tip what more do I need (thick walled)? One more question how do I correctly put on blade tips?:confused:

I would recommend the mirror versus the reflective disc. On my blade the difference was night and day for even light distribution. As for the exact glue that you need I don't know. I used Tenax pro weld, not sure if its the correct one or not but its held up quite well.

Eandori
05-04-2008, 07:58 PM
yeah but the ultra film is basicly the same thing as polyP, cello, and the other type of stuff that has that same effect.
Possibly not, might look the same but transmit light very different. I don't know, I've never personally worked with the film Ultra uses. But what I do know is that the setup we are talking about and what I showed in the video works. You can CLEARLY see the light dispersion difference between just the Corbin film and then when I added the Polypropolene. Right? You said just corbin film was better then when you added polypropolene. So.... SOMETHING was wrong, or different, etc.

xwingband
05-04-2008, 09:01 PM
I think Hasid is just stating his opinion. What he's advocationg is esentially what I'm doing with my nylon blades and it's neither method is worthy of "crap". The fact that he gives the same weight of "crap" to both plain corbin's and with a second film speaks more.

Eandori
05-05-2008, 06:46 AM
Hasid Lafre said:

My double wrap looked like crap and adding polyP to it dident help it much at all. I couldent take pics of it for ****, they all looked like poo.

Iam sticking with just plain nylon tubing, that hasent dissapointed me.
That seems pretty clear to me that he's saying adding the Polypropolene didn't help much. My own experience, and even the video I made tells a VERY different story. I'm not unwilling to believe something else is even better, what I'm saying is that if you add the 2nd film correctly the difference between that and JUST Corbin film is very large.

Ok, so a Nylon blade is more evenly lit then the corbin+polypropolene blade we have all been discussing? Can you or anybody else post a comparison video/pic?

Jay-gon Jinn
05-05-2008, 10:22 AM
I don't think a nylon blade is more evenly lit, it's just that the nylon blade itself glows, so it looks more like a solid energy beam, than a beam of light inside a clear tube.

And I have used both the cellophane gift wrapping and also the Ultrafilm in my "Dual-Core Diffusion" blades (I like to call them that, just sounds cool!), and haven't noticed that one is better than the other. Where I've seen a slight difference, though, is in using a 10deg lens as opposed to a 5deg in the thin-walled blades...I think the 10deg just disperses the light through the polyP/Cello better than the 5deg. I've even gotten decent results with 15deg lenses as well.

DARTH KALEL
05-05-2008, 02:03 PM
really I was thinking about that. I have the 5 degree optics and it's nice but I wanted to try the 10 degree to see if it made the blade a little fatter looking. I absolutely love the corbin film, gives it a core look, with the P4 the blade was even lit with just the corbin but it was transparent, so I knew I was losing light. when I put the poly in it just affectively traps the light inside the blade, night and day diference. i've been wanting to try a colored nylon blade for show with a little poly inside. but we will see, for now I love my blade. and I put it together myself, I agree if you have the choice get the mirror tip and not the alluminum disc, huge difference. I used that stuff Er Dan Gill was talking about and worked great no visible effect and can't get the tip off, on a side note though, I have to slam the tip on the get it on the blade, almost didn't have to glue it at all.

Count Malik
05-07-2008, 08:09 AM
Well I got a TCSS blade and I put 4 feet of polyp. in it. And it worked great. :mrgreen:No more flaring at the base and tip of the blade. It pretty even, for a green
K2 on medum low batteries. (not rechargable). So that blade will be used for my next saber housing a lux. V with CF v4 (so excited!). I also took my Obi-Wan-Kenobi MR ROTS stock blade and rolled 4 feet in that to. Very impressive results for both blades. BTW thanks for the polyp. idea guys>;):D