P4 vs. K2 comparison pics

[eastern57]

This is a quick comparison of my Green Seoul P4 and Green K2.

The top saber (MHS hilt) is the Seoul P4, driven @ 1200mA by CF V2.63

The bottom saber (Do-Clo hilt) is the K2, driven @ 1500mA by CF V3.0/3.1

Both have ultra blades.

Take it for what it is: comparison pics for which LED "I" like better. I'm going with the P4, it's a lighter tint and brighter... marginally brighter, but still...

Shot with a sony DSC-T10 (cybershot) with different settings:

regular auto-function, No Flash
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/eastern57/Misc/noflash.jpg


Fireworks setting, No Flash
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/eastern57/Misc/fireworks.jpg

Twilight setting, No Flash
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn260/eastern57/Misc/twilight.jpg

[LeMoel]

man i like the k2 better its a nicer green the p4 looks like the wrong type of green,but thats just through my eyes

[Angelus Lupus]

It all depends on: a) What hue of green you want/like and b)which appears brightest to your eyes.
The pics seem to suggest the p4 is slightly brighter, but that could be due to the difference in hues (the p4 has more blue in it) or the camera bias.

[Hasid Lafre]

From my understanding and many pics I see the camera will bias the blues more than greens and the more blue it looks the better its gonna show up.

look at this.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Lightsaber%20Pics/TCSSstyleBladewithPolyPinlitroomnof.jpg

That saber used a bin 2 cyan, IRL it appears more greenish than blue but the camera picked up the blue and made it look like it was a bin 1 cyan.

There close but I can tell teh difference between a bin 1 and 2 cyan. That Pic of the OP looks like its a bin 6 blue(not royal blue) more than anything.

[eastern57]

From my understanding and many pics I see the camera will bias the blues more than greens and the more blue it looks the better its gonna show up.

That's actually a very astute observation, Hasid. I never would have thought of that, but now that you mention it - They DO appear a tad on the "blue side". The actual tint on the P4 is a deeper, more obvious green, but the still pretty far off from the K2.

btw, Sohryu - that first picture, is exactly what that 5w bin2 cyan looked like.

[Sohryu76]

That's actually a very astute observation, Hasid. I never would have thought of that, but now that you mention it - They DO appear a tad on the "blue side". The actual tint on the P4 is a deeper, more obvious green, but the still pretty far off from the K2.

btw, Sohryu - that first picture, is exactly what that 5w bin2 cyan looked like.

the one by hasid?

yeah it looks really blue in the picture...
woulda fooled me...
but it is sooo much greener than the Bin 1 in real life...

[eastern57]

the auto-function pic looks like your 5w. I guess cameras aren't really as reliable as I'd though. My avatar is actually avery deep royal blue - you can sorta tell from the edges... tricksy little camerases

[LeMoel]

not to bash the Ultra blade but maybe you would get a better color comparison with a erv's style blade(poly p/corbin film

cuz the ultra blades are nice and even but they are also kind of see through type of film from there only being acetate inside.

might be an idea you want to try some day but they both look decent, the green high been rebel and even bright than those.

[Malaki Skywalker]

The P4 looks brighter to me

[Hasid Lafre]

Well the Fireworks setting, No Flash pic is deffinatly over exposed, regular auto-function, No Flash pic is deffinatly a good pic to judge what is brighter and the other one I dont know, Looks to me to much exposure was taken out.

[eastern57]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems that even with the over-exposure you would still be able to measure light output.

In the fireworks setting pic, the exposure time on both light sources (sabers) was the same, but there's more over-exposure (white) on the P4, so wouldn't that mean that more light was absorbed by the lens? resulting from higher light output?

[SpectreT65]

Sort of, and close enough for Government work.

Digital photography's not exactly like film photography, and when you're taking saber pics, especially with a "snapshot" camera, all kinds of funky can happen. I use a Nikon D-40, which allows me to set the aperture (F-stop), Shutter Speed, ISO (roughly corresponds with "film speed", y'know, 200 or 400 being the most common), and I took a pic of my cyan MR conversion. RL, it's a dim Kelly Green, almost teal. My first photo of it, and the photo on Ultra's site, made it look a heck of a lot more blue.

[eastern57]

again with the blue? That sure is an odd phenomena... I'm learning almost as much about photography as I am about saber construction...