switch question(s)

[xl97]

I am very inexperienced with electronics..and mainly focus on hilt building..

that being said I have been keeping my open for toys and other items I can canabalize for some buttons/switches on my builds..

I have found a few buttons and switches from flashlights that I would like to use..

my question(s) are.

1.) what are the requirements when looking for switches/buttons? do they need to have any special kind of rating? or capability?

2.) as long as it fits/mounts in the hilt...can it work? I see all types of post that mention SPST, SPDT.. types of terminology (Single pull, double throw..etc..etc.) but doesnt mean too much to me unfortunately.. :(

I have searched on-line at mouser, jameco... so Im not being lazy, I just need to be a little more educated I suppose, so my searching actually yield results I can understand.

(if you cant or dont want to offer helpful links or info.. just skip posting..thanks) ;)

Thank you

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

Did you see this?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch

[xl97]

nope..

didnt see it a sticky or anything.. but thanks..

the "Contact arrangements" section helped me visualize the switches much better. :)

so as related to OUR hobby is there a specific or a preference?

Im thinking my electronics will be:

white p4 led
hasbro sound
(corbin driver if one can be found..looks like none at the moment)
no clue on battery type

Am I correct in thinking the dirver and sound board in ones set-up will mandate the type of siwtch used? I have read so many posts and each just as confusing.. some need or did lachting vs momentary to get this or that working.. CoF and shimmer..etc..

Im just trying to get my bearings..LOL

Is there a way to tell what tyep of switch you have if you take form an existing toy or flashlight?

do the poles always tell?

DPST vs DPDT ?? both have two external poles? the rest are internal?? (if tis is correct) how can one tell the difference?

I have soem 'targets' with small footprint switches/buttons I want to take and use ;)

(I also asked where ya got your white P4 from..since I'll be needing some..and havent purchased anywhere before) ;)

Thanks for the replies.

[Hasid Lafre]

Ok theres 2 versions of corbin boards a latching and a momentary, If you wish to make them work with soundboards the hasbro boards need a momentary version cause its designed for a momentary switch and the Mr boards are designed with latching switches.

I would higly suggest DPDT switches. MR/corbin stups the corbin boards needs another clash sensor but you will have to talk to the guy that made the dooku saber about the corbin hasbro setup as he woudl knwo more about that setup than I would.

Also with a corbin mr setup you do not want to add a switch to the C&L cause it sends strange signals to the mr board that it dosent like.

[xl97]

there will be NO MR boards anywhere in tis picture. :)

the ONLY sounds boards I have are 3-5 hasbro boards.. which I'll probably use the Qui Gon boards as they sound better than the Vader ones I have..

I thought there were ONLY momentary Corbin boards left.. but I see there are NONE now.. :(

Thanks for the heads up about needing a momentary kind of Corbin board if going the hasbro route (which these will be)

so I basically piggy back the hasbro on the corbin board.. and wire the CoF sensor from the hasbro to the Corbin board and the Corbin board to the LED.. is this correct?

because I DONT want the hasbro board to have ANYTHING to do with the LED lighting or blinking..or nay other ill effects I have read on.

that being said.. this type of set-up REQUIRES 2 buttons?

1 for power?
1 to invoke/use the Clash/shimmer effect?

or is the clash/shimmer automatic with this type of set-up?

Im always confused when i see some set-up sneed two switches some need one...

some add another to control efects manually..where some have them automated form the boards/sensors.

Thanks for clearing things up.. hopefuly I can clear the rest of this up and go hunting for some parts again.. :)

[Hasid Lafre]

With a hasbro setup I think you can use 2 switches and the same clash sensor. but with a MR setup you use one switch and 2 clash sensors.

The corbin board runs the led, and it has a cof built in so it wouldent matter if you were using the hasbro board to run the led or not but with the corbin board it runs the led at efficency for blues and green luxIIIs reds and k2s are another story.

The corbin board will run a luxV but you will need a voltage regulator for the hasbro board or it will die quickly, Same with MR setups.

It sucks that the only soundboard that can run a lux V without die'n is a CF and a USB.

[xl97]

ok... so you CAN use two switches.. or you HAVE to? (Im unclear.. sorry)

I thought I read (or mis-read)..lol.... where someone posted you need to wire the CoF to the Corbin board so the blade wont blink or shutter on-off liek the hasbro does when it controls the LED itself.. but still giving the sound to the corbin board to work with?? (I could and a probably WAAY off)

I 'thought' thre was a way or read about a set-up that

1.) had power button to turn everything on.
2.) had automated clash sensor
3.) had a second button that was for a clash * shimmer type of effect like locking blades? that was manually invoked?

on a side note..and may NOT even have anything to do with Hasbro & Corbin

I have read where people have two buttons hold down ONE and tap the other to start their effects? CoF & shimmer clash?

(again..I could have no clue what Im going on about) ;)

So the corbin driver controls the LED..

has a CoF of its OWN..

and what else?


so the hasbro is PURELY just for sound then? (glad I got 3 for 5 bucks then) :P

does Corbin have any sensors on it? or does that need to come from the hasbro?

[Hasid Lafre]

Well what I said about the corbin hasbro setup is the extent of my knolage with it.

[Darth_DevilGuy]

the 616 is down to 50 bucks on radioshack's website, its IMO the best MR soundboard for conversions and I think you could wire in a puck parallel to give good power to the LED.