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Atomic
04-08-2008, 07:27 AM
http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Seoul/-3.5W-Seoul-LEDs/Seoul-P7-Emitter-LT-1284_121_78.html

It's basically 4 Seoul P4s under one dome. Power requirements are a bit steep. Think that would work with a color disk and show good color? :D

Hasid Lafre
04-08-2008, 07:30 AM
Seoul P7 Emitter
2.8A multichip Z-LED with ~90lm/W

Diameter: 12mmViewing Angle: 130°Height: 6.54mmEmitting Color: whiteHousing Color: clearLumen typ.: 700Lumen max.: 900Kelvin typ.: 6300mA typ.: 2800 mAV typ.: 3.60 VV max.: 4.20 VWatt: 10,08 W



MY GOD!

2800mah!

Atomic
04-08-2008, 08:19 AM
Yeah, I'm not qualified to even attempt electronics like that. Maybe TCSS will sell a hilt that holds a car battery.

Marsupial
04-08-2008, 08:28 AM
2.8 Amp... good luck powering that with standard battery pack at full current!
and... what about poor runtime?

Altough, I'd like to see how the blade looks.

Hasid Lafre
04-08-2008, 08:35 AM
What about 2 9volts on 3 1amp pucks?

Moordak
04-08-2008, 08:45 AM
Looks like the max forward voltage was 4.6 volts though. Couldn't you just use a standard 4.8v AA 2600 mah NIMH pack with three 1000ma buckpucks? I mean, you wouldn't get even an hour of runtime, but it'd be bright while it lasted.

xwingband
04-08-2008, 09:26 AM
What about 2 9volts on 3 1amp pucks?

9V's have crappy capacity and ability to put out current. You'll see it die before your eyes.

TroyO
04-08-2008, 09:47 AM
2800 MA, but at 4 V (ish). Using the batteries I am for the 10 watt LED it should be possible... 2600 MAH, max draw at 1C. Using 8 batts, in 2 sets of 4 would get you 4.8V at 5200 MA capacity.

The ones I'm using are also 4 LEDS, but with a pair connected in series and the 2 pairs then run from (2) 700 MA buckpucks. That's 1400 MA from 9.6V... roughly equivalent to 2800 MA from 4.8 V if wired that way. (I would like to try to 1000 MA buckpucks too.)

I calculated a run time of between 1 Hr 15 Mins to 1 Hr 45 Mins... depending on how perfect world specs play out in reality. (It's still a work in progress)

Roughly 15$ for a pack of 4 batts.

SWAT Strachan
04-08-2008, 11:03 AM
Altough, I'd like to see how the blade looks.Probably melted and drooping towards the ground :D.

Hasid Lafre
04-08-2008, 11:10 AM
I think it would take something like this to melt a poly carb blade. Iam sure whatever was in the blade would melt so prolly sanding the blade ti diffuse the light would be a must.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79Aw8nH9IrM

SWAT Strachan
04-08-2008, 11:32 AM
I saw that video a couple of nights ago whilst browsing for other things, and it's exactly what made me think that the blade would just steam a bit and then go limp :). I dunno, where's transparent aluminium when you need it :rolleyes:.

Moordak
04-08-2008, 12:43 PM
I dunno, where's transparent aluminium when you need it :rolleyes:.

I guess Scotty hasn't come back in time yet to invent it for us.

Hasid Lafre
04-08-2008, 01:05 PM
Wait they went back in time to what the 80s early 90s? so we should have transparent aluminium.

SWAT Strachan
04-08-2008, 01:38 PM
Wait they went back in time to what the 80s early 90s? so we should have transparent aluminium.True, but it does take years to work out the dynamics of the matrix ;).

Doesn't this kind of talk normally get you banned from SW sites? :shock:.

Hasid Lafre
04-08-2008, 01:49 PM
no, have you seen some of the topics and discussions that go on around here?

Kant Lavar
04-08-2008, 02:54 PM
I did it with my first topic and I'm still a newb, so I suppose if I can get away with it...

Hang on. There's someone knocking at my door. I'll be back.

Novastar
04-08-2008, 06:36 PM
While we're all de-railing this semi-pointless thread...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c70ZRlyWL1E

...look at THIS retard.

-1 star -- no tripod used
-1 star -- TV show in the background is distracting
-1 star -- used one hand to unscrew the cap instead of placing the camera up on a shelf
-1 star -- used a dogtag ball-chain instead of a piece of WIRE
-1 star -- don't smoke, baby
-1 star -- Army issue flashlight = -1 garbage piece of SHIP.
-1 star -- part ONE of a TWO part video on this moronic subject
-1 star -- spelled cigarette with an "s"

Genius man. GENIUS man.

Zero Unit
04-09-2008, 05:18 PM
Wait they went back in time to what the 80s early 90s? so we should have transparent aluminium.

We do have transparent aluminum (sort of)...it's just not very light, and it has a blue tint to it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminum_oxynitride
and
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transparent_alumina

:D

Angelus Lupus
04-09-2008, 05:27 PM
Interestingly that Aluminium oxynitride was pattented in 1985, so Scotty did give that guy the formula. He probably went bust making the stuff, tho, given the cost.

Samel_lowery@yahoo.com
04-09-2008, 09:35 PM
You could always wire it to your belt and make it an Archaic or Ancient lightsaber

Voice
05-31-2008, 09:44 AM
Just thought I'd try to help bring the topic back on topic, so I went and collected some information I hadn't seen yet in the thread.

Mind you, I've never done any real electrical work or circuit design, so I might be barking up the wrong tree. That said, from what I *thought* I kind of understood from reading the LuxeonIII Thermal Spec doc, Thermal Resistance plays some role in the amount of heat put off by one of these, so I thought I'd collect the numbers for comparison.

If I'm totally off-base, let me know and I'll clear the post to avoid gumming up the thread.


Luxeon III
Max Lumen: 140
Thermal Resistance: 17 șC/W

Luxeon V
Max Lumen: 120
Thermal Resistance: 11 șC/W

K2
Max Lumen: 75
Thermal Resistance: 13 șC/W

P4
Max Lumen:
Thermal Resistance [5]: 8.5 șC/W
Thermal Resistance [6]: 6.9 șC/W
[5] RθJ-Bis measured with a SSC metal corepcb.(25 șC≤TJ≤110 șC)
[6] RθJ-C is measured with only emitter. .(25 șC≤TJ≤110 șC)
Break voltage of Metal PCB is 6.5kVAC

P7
Max Lumen: 900
Thermal Resistance [5]: 3 șC/W
[5] Rθis measured with only emitter. (25 șC≤TJ ≤110 șC)

Strydur
05-31-2008, 01:49 PM
What color are you basing these stats off of? Every color has different lumen output. To make a good comparison you need to choose one color and compare them that way. You can refer to the led resistor chart we have using the link on the main store page for luxeon brand led's.

Voice
05-31-2008, 02:16 PM
I pulled the stats for white on all of them. Figured a direct comparison would be best, since the various colors have different brightness even between the same lines.

I figure I don't know enough about electronics to do a test saber myself, but I can do the grunt labor of trying to dig up info (if someone can point me in the right direction). Just seems like the P7 would be the holy grail of LEDs if it can be made to work. Even a filter that cuts out 50% of the light would be 450lumen or so.

Jedibum
05-31-2008, 03:51 PM
Are you sure you have the right lumeon numbers? I think a White Lux III only puts out about 80 ... not 140. And a White K2 puts out 140 ... not 75. I'm not sure about the others, but based on that I think all your stats should be re-checked.

Voice
05-31-2008, 05:23 PM
I re-checked and I seem to have the correct according to the led-tech.de site:

Now, if the site has the numbers wrong, then my bad. All I can say is I'm a newbie and I don't know better (yet).


Luxeon 3 (http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Luxeon/Luxeon-3W/Luxeon-3W-Star-LED-LT-613_49_48.html):
Emitting Color: white
Housing Color: clear
Lumen min.: 60
Lumen typ.: 65
Lumen max.: 140

Luxeon 5 (http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Luxeon/Luxeon-5W/Luxeon-5W-Star-LED-LT-620_49_43.html):
Emitting Color: white
Housing Color: clear
Lumen min.: 87.4
Lumen typ.: 105
Lumen max.: 120

K2 (http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Luxeon/Luxeon-K2/Luxeon-K2-LT-937_49_44.html):
Emitting Color: white
Housing Color: clear
Lumen min.: 39.8
Lumen typ.: 45
Lumen max.: 75

xwingband
05-31-2008, 07:37 PM
The thermal resistance has more to do with finding the heatsinking amount. If you wanted to do the math you'd find the "adequate" amount via that number, but otherwise it doesn't mean a whole lot to us as we use the whole hilt and if that's not enough... well, that sucks I guess.

Voice
05-31-2008, 11:37 PM
So those thermal resistance numbers would let someone who knew the math figure out if a saber made from parts here would be a sufficient heat sync, but not much else?

I really can't imagine that it wouldn't be enough, but I honestly don't know enough to say for sure without actually holding one.

Darth Morbius
06-01-2008, 01:15 PM
While we're all de-railing this semi-pointless thread...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c70ZRlyWL1E

...look at THIS retard.

-1 star -- no tripod used
-1 star -- TV show in the background is distracting
-1 star -- used one hand to unscrew the cap instead of placing the camera up on a shelf
-1 star -- used a dogtag ball-chain instead of a piece of WIRE
-1 star -- don't smoke, baby
-1 star -- Army issue flashlight = -1 garbage piece of SHIP.
-1 star -- part ONE of a TWO part video on this moronic subject
-1 star -- spelled cigarette with an "s"

Genius man. GENIUS man.

Actually, this is a trick you learn in survival training now. It is a way to ignite a fire if you have a flashlight. While I agree that his methods are moronic at best, he is actually showing how to do something useful. I guess. :mrgreen:

Novastar
06-01-2008, 07:45 PM
You don't need a flashlight to do that. You need a battery. Or a cigarette lighter. Or a bloody MATCH. :)

Onli-Won Kanomi
06-02-2008, 01:32 PM
The three survival essentials: a Bowie knife, a Zippo lighter, a coil of rope - with the knowledge how to use them those can get you through most survival situations in most conventional temperate land environments [obviously high arctic climes, deep desert, or adrift at sea or fallen out of a plane requires other more specialized survival equipment lol]

Though for a Jedi in a survival situation, say crashed starfighter on a non-spacefaring planet with no communications for possibility or rescue, I guess the lightsaber could do double duty for the first two and if you built a liquid cable launcher/spinneret in the pommel maybe even most uses of the last...if SW was real that is.

Robinson Jedi...there's a story there methinks...

Hasid Lafre
06-03-2008, 04:35 AM
I watch survivorman, he takes litterally the bare essentials and uses what he finds plus hes on his own and hes his own camera crew unlike that bear grills moron.

Samel_lowery@yahoo.com
06-04-2008, 03:06 AM
Correct me if I'm wrong but once a light gets so bright it starts to look white and not the color that it is supposed to be. If you used something with a lumen output of 1000 or even of couple hundred lumens you would have to find the right filter for the color you wanted and the right output of lumens. Otherwise you would just have a washed out lightsaber right?:rolleyes: If I'm wrong correct me on this but that was always how I understood light to work.

Voice
06-04-2008, 06:45 AM
Well, given that a P7 starts out as white, yes we'd need color filters. However, the brighter the light the easier it should be to find filters for the right color.

If a single layer of the filter gets overpowered, just add another layer until you get the effect you're looking for.

If a light source is too dim, you've got to find a filter that works perfectly with one layer or your blade will be too dim to look right.

Voice
06-20-2008, 01:11 PM
How about this battery pack setup for a P4 I plan to upgrade to a P7 in the future?

2 of these (http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4439) in serial.

That should be 6.4V, 3300mAh. I'd be looking at roughly 4hr 43min on a P4 or 1hr 11min run time for the P7, right?

Onli-Won Kanomi
06-23-2008, 02:34 AM
So those are c-cell sized but longer? I notice they are lithium...Fe? hmmm...Iron based? Do they need different chargers from normal Lithium Ion rechargeables???

Novastar
06-23-2008, 03:25 AM
Onli--yes, similar to C-cells... dimensions are slightly different I believe. The voltage is also different from Li-Ion, and seeing as the cell capacity is pretty wild, I don't know exactly who would have a charger "on-hand" that would work well with a 3.2v setup.

Granted--electronics gurus can charge most any cell of any rechargeable type with a dedicated power supply and by using the right specifications for charging the cell. Chargers found in stores/online/whatever are fantastic though since you can (essentially) plug your cells in and forget about them until they are ready.

For that cell, standard charge would be 1500ma (3 hours to complete)... rapid @ 3000ma (about 1/2 that time).

Voice
06-23-2008, 07:10 AM
LiFePO batteries have the advantage that they don't explode or catch fire if they're over-charged. They don't have *quite* the power density of a more traditional Li-Ion battery, but they still pack more energy than NiMH cells. The page I linked, has links to chargers they sell that work for these batteries.

Just seemed like a good size to slide into the hilt but still leave enough room on the sides for a couple wires to run down if I want to add a charge port and/or speaker in the future.

I assume this (http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=4338) would be the proper 'buckpuck' to use with a P7?
I see that it says 2.7V-6.0V. Would that mean using the cells above, I'd want to do them in parallel, rather than serial to keep it within the 6V upper limit?

Ambo
06-24-2008, 07:27 AM
Did anyone think about filters melting if used with these?

Malaki Skywalker
06-24-2008, 08:14 AM
Did anyone think about filters melting if used with these?

Thats what I thought, but then again you could use a foot of colored cellophane in a blade

Onli-Won Kanomi
06-26-2008, 07:52 AM
If by "filters" you mean the colour discs Strydur sells in the store I'm not sure what they are made of or how much heat they can take but CINEMATIC filter material should be able to take anything we throw at it...afterall even a 900 lumen saber is only about a 60W light bulb - common cinematic lights are THOUSANDS of watts so filters for them have to be tough heat resistant material - I'm sure IF the store discs melted Lee Filters or other filter makers could provide filters that wouldnt.

Now blade DIFFUSERS are another matter...I have no idea if the 'gift wrap' type diffuser materials, Ultra film, Corbin film, etc can take really BRIGHT sabers...but if necessary Lee also makes long rolls of cinematic diffuser material which ought to be able to...would be more expensive though.

Voice
07-03-2008, 05:40 PM
Yeah, I helped out in the theater in college, so I wasn't too worried about the filters. Individual filters are pretty cheap, and a Leiko or baby spot get *way* hotter than anything we' could stuff into a saber hilt. (Never touch the bulb of a stage light with your bare skin. The as it heats up, the oils you leave behind can cause the glass to bubble, and potentially *explode*.)

Hadn't thought about the diffusers, but if the normal ones don't hold up to it, going with the the stuff Onli-Wan Kanomi mentioned would be the solution.

vargose
09-16-2008, 01:07 PM
Why don't we just run at a lower current. 1400 mA still gives us 400 lumens which is still brighter than the p4. And I am sure that would spit out less heat. 2000 mA would probably be managable.

Anavrin
09-27-2008, 06:56 AM
Why don't we just run at a lower current. 1400 mA still gives us 400 lumens which is still brighter than the p4. And I am sure that would spit out less heat. 2000 mA would probably be managable.

I love that that's the first time I've seen someone recommend /under/driving a lamp! XD The idea is good and sound, but I wonder if a three-Rebel star mightn't be a better choice?

Malaki Skywalker
09-27-2008, 09:17 AM
But I wonder if a three-Rebel star mightn't be a better choice?

Well, you would need 2.3A and over 11v, plus the fact we have bad optics... no Tri-Rebels yet :sad:

xwingband
09-27-2008, 09:29 AM
Well, you would need 2.3A and over 11v, plus the fact we have bad optics... no Tri-Rebels yet :sad:

No, you'd need 3A or 9-10V, not both. The reason a P7 is low voltage and high amps is because it's paralleled the set of dies in it. On a tr-rebel Endor you can parallel or series them depending on what works for you. I'd series them myself because the amperage is more reliable then.

Jase Kala Maris
09-30-2008, 01:45 AM
So... I'm alittle afraid to post this because the last time I posted about useing a SSC P7 I got beat up on the FXSabersforums so go easy on me guys.

I'm a noob and know nothing about electronics so I guess my brains not wired to see how you can't do this. When they told me I couldn't I just said ok sorry and moved on and didn't post anymore.

But I kept trying to figure it out because WOW what a bright blade this would be! I just had to figure it out.

Then I found something inspireing. Take a look at this video please. I know it's not running at it's full potential but when it hits the 3.35v 1500ma it looks darn bright to me! How many lumens... beats me. Enough lumens for me I decided.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R77Z9qfCKm8

If useing the Ultrasound V2.0 on the K2 setting useing the TCSS 4.8V AA 2600mAh NIMH Rechargeable battery pack...

Settings of the US V2.0

K2 1.5A

Lux III: 1A

Lux III Red: 1.4A

Lux III Overdrive: 1.45A

Lux V 700mA
... wouldn't I get similar results as in the output of the video?

and still get all the flickery goodness and sweet sounds of the USV2.0?

As for heat and filters melting away I've got an idea for that also but I'm alittle worried about bringing that up... It's just because noone ever seems to talk about it so... well we can get to that when it's not 5am eastern time and I can think straight!

I look forward to your ideas peeps... be gentle!

Voice
10-21-2008, 01:41 PM
I'm still looking to find a P7 pre-mounted on a star. Anybody found one anywhere?

MoonDragn
10-21-2008, 01:55 PM
Imagine fitting one of these suckers in a lightsaber:

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2008/04/luxim-plasma-lifi-light-bulb-led-cfl.php

140 lumens per watt.

Or this thing:

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2008/03/nanocrystal-coating-led-lightbulbs.php

300 lumens per watt.

Voice
10-23-2008, 12:35 PM
Gave up on finding a pre-mounted P7. Ordered an emitter, a P7 star, and a P7 driver from KaiDomain. When they show up, I'll let everyone know how it works out.

Jase Kala Maris
10-28-2008, 07:05 PM
hey Voice sorry I didn't get to you sooner but dealextreme and KD both have them mounted I think they both have C bin 740-900 lumens or they just got D bins (800-900)in at KD I bought mine there mounted I'm waiting for the mail man. let me know how your project goes cuse your the only one off the top of my head thats doing it. I'll post pics and stuff when I get things together also.

Also I bought a few small flashlight reflectors to try and mod to see how they work if you have any optic ideas let me know.

Voice
10-28-2008, 08:56 PM
Got a link to the mounted P7 at Kaidomain? I looked for hours and couldn't find one. Be nice to know where to find it if I manage to screw up mounting the emitter.

Jase Kala Maris
10-29-2008, 07:19 PM
This is the one I'm waiting for...

SSC P7 DSXOJ LED 21mm STAR (S005939) (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5381)
- SSC P7 DSXOJ LED with 21mm STAR included
- Ready to be used
- Bin D, up to 900 lumens at 2.8A of input, highest output from Souel P7
Release Date: 9/23/2008 3:01:35 AM
ship in 1-3 business days
Price: $23.00

This is the other one I saw...
SSC P7 CSXOI 12W LED Star (S004466) (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1778)
- The latest Z-Power CSXOI P7 LED emitter from Seoul Semiconductor
- 740 ~ 900 lm maximum output (2700mA max) (C bin)
- Base size (bare base): 12mm x 7.52mm
- Important: do not drive this LED for more than 5 seconds without proper heatsink
- Comes in Star board, ready to be mounted on anything.

Manufacturer's descriptions:
- A single LED package providing the world's highest brightness of 740-900 lumens and the efficacy of 90 lm/W
- Ultra slim size, super high luminous efficacy, and low electricity consumption to replace the conventional bulbs
Release Date: 8/25/2008 9:52:14 PM
ship in 1-3 business days
Price: $23.20
http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/emitterp7.jpg

The wording on the D bin is alittle wierd not sure if that means mounted or just included... the C bin is mounted by the wording.

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/p7star1.jpg

This question is open to anyone but if you look at these pictures can you tell me/take a guess at if these led are internally wired 2 led emitter pads in serial. 2by2 I taged the pics if you move the mouse over them you might get a better idea of what I mean.

I ask because I'm trying to figure out how to get the most outta the led and still be able to use the USV2.0. I'm going to start running it 1500ma cuse I don't really have a choice. If I could run 2 of those led pads off the USboard and the other 2 off this...

KD Super Output SSC P7 LED Driver Board (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5498)
http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/p7driver.jpg

so my image tags didn't work sorry but you can see what I mean 2 inputs 2 outputs...(you can see they are seperate but soldiered together from one photo to another...) I can't get the pdf to open for me to look through from the SSC website. anyone got any ideas...?

also when searching for stuff on KD use the broadest search term. seems to work better. Type in P7 only and you get emitters stars drivers and all flashlights. good luck.

IF it dosen't come to me premounted (and the pos and neg soldiered together...)I'll try and run some tests to see about this theory

vargose
10-30-2008, 08:11 AM
I'm still looking to find a P7 pre-mounted on a star. Anybody found one anywhere?

Here is a mounted p7
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12721

Voice
10-30-2008, 01:27 PM
SSC P7 DSXOJ LED 21mm STAR (S005939) (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5381)

This doesn't appear to be the same sort of 'star' as the Luxeons & P4s sold here. Without that, IIRC, the lens holder won't sit right.


SSC P7 CSXOI 12W LED Star (S004466) (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1778)

Can't tell from the pictures if this is a typical star or not. (Way to take pictures of an anti-static bag!) Got myself an unmounted D-bin. (I took a gamble that I was reading the specs right, because the D-bin was actually *cheaper*).



KD Super Output SSC P7 LED Driver Board (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=5498)

Got one of these. (Didn't want to mess with figuring out what resistor I'd need for a given battery pack.)


Here is a mounted p7
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12721

This is the same as the first one Jase Kala Maris posted. Mostly, I'm concerned about the style of star on this one.

Jase Kala Maris
10-31-2008, 11:16 PM
the fast strobe setting might give a nice pulse flicker effect, MIGHT... has to do some testing let us know what happens

Novastar
11-01-2008, 02:26 AM
This might have been asked already (even though I've been reading this thread, heheh)... are those P7s compatible with the TCSS blade/LED mounts? I mean... I have a copper one, but... I don't know much about the specifications and so forth.

I will go look it up and figure it out ('cause that's the way I do things, that's the way I preach ANYHOW)... but... if anyone can confirm or advise... meesa would appreciates.

(OMG... did *I* just use a Jar-Jar reference??!?!?!?!?!)

<<-- shoots himself in the head. It must be Halloween... ;) :rolleyes: :cool:

Voice
11-01-2008, 07:49 PM
Good news & bad news.

First the good news. You can get a 'traditional' star like they sell here, specifically for the P7. That works fine. The lens *holder* can be modified easily enough by trimming the stuff that runs along the 'bottom' so the larger dome/housing will fit through. Obviously, a holder with a different bottom area would be better.

Now for the bad news. The P7 has a much larger dome than the Luxeons and P4. (Not too surprising all things considered.) Unfortunately, that means it's not compatible with the lens holders or lenses.

Are the lens holders or lenses custom for TCSS, or are they sourced from somewhere that I might be able to get similar pieces for the P7?

If anybody can find me a lens and/or lens holder, I'll get my pieces wired up and see how it works. I'm coming up blank at this point for lenses/collimators.

xwingband
11-01-2008, 08:23 PM
You should have asked... I could have told you the P7 has a larger dome and the normal optics wouldn't have worked.

The P7 is meant to be a flood light so there isn't a big push to get narrow optics out.

The ones in TCSS are not custom. They are Carclo lenses I believe or at least the same style.

Voice
11-02-2008, 03:07 PM
Well, it shouldn't have been a surprise that the dome was bigger (4 P4 elements instead of 1), I just hadn't even thought about it.

I've got to imagine there's flashlight lenses out there somewhere. I'll just have to keep looking.

Out of curiosity, the first way I managed to get my lens assembly together for my P4 had the lens upside down resting on top of the holder. Optics not being my strong point, anybody know what effect that might have on a P7 under it? (I'm also away from my saber ATM, so I can't check for myself just yet.)

Jase Kala Maris
11-02-2008, 03:14 PM
http://www.sekonix.com/modules/catalogue/(P7)_P7-CL_spec.pdf

http://www.sekonix.com/modules/catalogue/P7.pdf

this and getting 2.8-3amp to the led has been my nightly google search.

I'm planing lots of modding and doing a small flashligh reflector not optic(lense) but if someone can find something please let me know.

Jase Kala Maris
11-02-2008, 03:26 PM
sorry they don't sell to public only to retailers (or big orders) and from what I read the min order is alot.

but, I did see someone in another forum selling them, candle power forums maybe I lost the link sorry ( you WIll Goggle Search *wave hand* )

and even these look to wide I think they are ment for bike lights amongst other things... could they be dremeled... maybe, this is on my list of things to try.

Voice
11-03-2008, 08:27 PM
Well, I posted interest in a CPFMarketplace thread where a guy was selling one of the col#1 collimators. They're over 37mm in diameter, so I'll be spending a *lot* of time scraping some of that outer diameter off it to see if it'll work. If it does, great, if not, I'll be out $9+shipping. (not a big deal) Of course, I've got to wait for my posts to be filtered through the admins there.

Wish me luck.

I'm working under the assumption at the moment that the collimator in question will fit (height-wise) in the lens end of the blade holders. No idea if this is correct, but if not I've at least tried.

If anybody finds a better candidate let me know. (I've subscribed to this thread.)

Jase Kala Maris
11-04-2008, 08:50 PM
missed the reg mail today, damnit!

tomorrow when I get the p7 led and star I'll post some pics and tell you about the sizes and star size fitment

Danz409
11-04-2008, 10:59 PM
HURRAY EVERYONE! GRAB YOUR P7 LED LIGHT SABERS WE NEED TO FLAG DOWN THE INTERGALACTIC TRANSPORT VESSEL!! its obveus they will be able to see them ^^ i mean... your average spotlight puts out about 2000 lumns and this LED being able to pack 700rms 900 max.. god.... get about 300 of these and put them on a grid wired up to a generator or something. it would be an obamation to all light sources

MoonDragn
11-05-2008, 07:16 AM
Or you can make a trident lightsaber and have 3 of these things.

xwingband
11-06-2008, 05:35 PM
Alrighty... I'll throw out a bone. I personally don't give a crap about these high wattage multi-die LEDs but that won't stop people from wanting them. So...

Cree MC-E. You can find stars, emitters and PCBs for DIY. It's setup more like the LedEngin stuff, but look at these. The dome is smaller. I'm not sure on the how close it will be but I think you may be able to squeeze our normal lenses over it. Diagrams show it as 6.2mm and our lenses are about 6mm so it's really dang close. Worth pursuing more than the P7 right now.

Jase Kala Maris
11-06-2008, 08:47 PM
CREEMCE-W370, White Cree MC-E Star Features:
370 lm @ 350mA
700mA - Max Drive Current
12.8Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage @ 350mA
13.6Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage @ 700mA
6500K - Typ. Color Temperature
4-Chip In Series Circuit
Cree Part# MCE4WT-A2-0000-000K07



if anyone was wondering.

I'll stick with my p7 because I have all the parts for it and have the setup in my head just need to enter the testing phase.

I'm going to be running it off the ultrasound board at the K2 led settings which is 1500ma...

Anyone got any ideas how I could throw another 1000ma at it.?

i think 1500ma will be pretty bright to start anyway

P.S. i wouldn't know how to run 12-13v into that anyway

vargose
11-07-2008, 07:51 AM
P.S. i wouldn't know how to run 12-13v into that anyway

Use 4 TrustFire batteries

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-900mAh-14500-Lithium-Battery-2-Pack-P342.aspx

xwingband
11-07-2008, 10:27 AM
CREEMCE-W370, White Cree MC-E Star Features:


P.S. i wouldn't know how to run 12-13v into that anyway

That's the beauty is that each die can be run however. 12-13V is all in series. Do 2x2 and it would be 6-7V and 1.4A

So for others without parts that's the road I would follow.

Jase Kala Maris
11-07-2008, 02:42 PM
X-WING,

Can you take a look at the pics of the P7. are the dies set up in series on that or parrellel?

are they 2*2 there looks like theres two inputs for pos and two for out puts... looks like they might be wired like that also under the dome.

just wondering...

If so I was thinking about running 2 off the USv2.0 and 2 off a Flashlight LED driver on strobe... just toying with the idea... further down.

MoonDragn
11-07-2008, 02:53 PM
If I remember correctly from what I've read, they are normally sold in series but you can alter the circuit board junctions to change it to parallel.

not 100% sure though.

xwingband
11-07-2008, 05:23 PM
Without looking at the spec sheet I believe the two legs are just standard practice. Luxeon does that on K2's even though it's one die. I think the emitter is setup to always be parallel.

Voice
11-08-2008, 01:29 PM
My understanding is that the P7 is 4 P4s wired in parallel. No idea if there's any way to turn it into 2 parallel sets of 2 in series. If so, it'd double the voltage, but half the amps needed.

Jase Kala Maris
11-09-2008, 08:37 PM
got my p7 on the star and its all looking good!
Holes match up almost perfect I might have to dremel the wholes for the wires alittle bigger, maybe... on my copper heatsink.

As for the collimators I got they would both need modding, one alot more then other.

One fits into my MHS blade holder perfectly but just dosen't go deep enough in. its to hard to explain. I'll try to get some pics going to show you what I'm in for.

If I dremel out the MHS blade holder at the narrowest part inside just enough to drop the Cone shaped collminator deeper it should sit just above the emitter without touching and be secured by the blade when inserted from the other side.. or a snug oring or locktight or whatever.

Like I said I'll get some picks up to show you.

Voice
11-10-2008, 06:55 AM
Yes, definitely pictures. And sources. The only P7 collimator I've found is about 37mm wide, which is too big to fit inside the emitter section without some serious modifications. Where did you find the narrower one?

If I'm understanding your problem correctly, the LED/collimator assembly that fits in the MHS emitter section is too long, so the emitter won't screw down all the way (or at all?). I guess the solution to that would be to either thin out the 'shoulder' that holds everything in place, or grind some off the shoulder the heat sink rests on. The alternative would be to get a custom emitter made that's a bit longer so everything fits in place normally.

I suppose, technically, you could put a shoulder on the collimator's top surface, but I'd imagine that would be trickier to do.

Sairon
11-10-2008, 11:11 AM
what about shaving down the colliminator lens?

Voice
11-10-2008, 11:35 AM
That's my plan if I can get my hands on one.

Jase Kala Maris
11-12-2008, 08:02 PM
been side tracked will upload tonight

Jase Kala Maris
11-13-2008, 12:07 AM
and away we go...

this is everything apart peeps...

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/everythingapart.jpg


showing you the sizing...

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/everything.jpg

this is to big see how it just sits on top of the lense.(I know but it was only for a second)

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/tobig.jpg

I'm planing on Dremeling that flat part just at the bottom, should be perfect?!?!

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/colminator2.jpg

the fitmint of this collminator is so close its crazy slides right down but...

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/fit.jpg

notice it sits up to high... you can see it well from this side...

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/tobigss.jpg

PIC does have emitter on star under there fits nicely nothing to see here move along

I need to Dremel, a little bit at a time, the thick blade stop lip- on the inside making the hole just a bit wider so the cone will slide down right ontop/almost touching the led dome. (I hope you guys are understanding me lol) The blade, when in, would hold it snug OR...

I could put a screw in (don't want to)
OR locktight/superglue just a couple of dots... anyway...

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/cone.jpg

swear000
11-13-2008, 04:02 AM
looks like it will work...

vargose
11-13-2008, 08:25 AM
Alrighty... I'll throw out a bone. I personally don't give a crap about these high wattage multi-die LEDs but that won't stop people from wanting them. So...

Cree MC-E. You can find stars, emitters and PCBs for DIY. It's setup more like the LedEngin stuff, but look at these. The dome is smaller. I'm not sure on the how close it will be but I think you may be able to squeeze our normal lenses over it. Diagrams show it as 6.2mm and our lenses are about 6mm so it's really dang close. Worth pursuing more than the P7 right now.

Someone should explore this option. Probably the most viable.

Voice
11-13-2008, 08:53 AM
So, I take it the problem is that inner shoulder that keeps the LuxIII lenses positioned properly?
Is the emitter cavity deep enough for the P7 reflector?
What's the spread of the reflector?

Jase Kala Maris
11-13-2008, 01:12 PM
I think it may be just deep enough. This is a comparison pic, but I have to say I'll have to do all the dremeling first then light it up to see how looks in the blade, what the focal piont is etc. I don't have high hopes (lie) this is only the first test... the coll is for a flashlight so I'm hopeing the narrow beam will work well... This one was meant for a Cree 5 *I think*.

look
it's going to be very close.

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC006563.jpg
sorry didn't have a ruller anywhere...
http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC006582.jpg

Voice
11-14-2008, 08:27 AM
Yeah, that looks like it'll be tight. Let us know how it goes. You could gain a bit more vertical space by grinding down the shoulder the heat sink rests on as well.

Sairon
11-14-2008, 04:13 PM
looks like it should work. see if you could find out what reflector it is cause I may get a p7 if this works.

Lord Dottore Matto
11-14-2008, 04:25 PM
can't wait to see this!

Jase Kala Maris
11-15-2008, 01:13 AM
first...
seeing this thing lit up is way off I feel, and this is a first try it prolly wont work and so forth... that being said as to not get anyones hopes up...

this is how much I trimmed from the inside of the 25Ś19.5mm,OP Reflector (http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1864) I trimed until it fit and I mean just, barely fit, I figured if I did to much it'd be a wasted.

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC006602.jpg

IT IS JUST RESTING THERE IT'S NOT MOUNTED!!!:eek:
http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC006652.jpg

pretty
http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC006622-1.jpg

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC006672.jpg

Okay, now I take that reflector off then screw down the blade holder See nothing inside.

Also NOTE I dremeled the heck outta that inside lip but its still there (not my best work)
http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC006682.jpg
I slide the reflector in carefully...
http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC006692-1.jpg
when I put the blade in and everything is held in there tight.
This is not by anymeans prefect, but it's work for now... I need a driver for this to light it up. I was planning on useing the USboard but I'm waiting for it like everyone...

I might get a flashlight driver but that will take a week or so...
all I have is a rechargable 4.8v 2600mah pack and I don't want to direct drive it, that makes me nervous. So I'm going to lay back and wait for the mail man.

any questions any answers? Hope I'm Helping

Novastar
11-15-2008, 04:21 AM
Umm... Jase--you're helping, you're helping! :)

Really, I think this is pretty cool stuff. I've been wanting to at least TRY some insane P7 thing, and this thread has been a major step in my hopes to do it. At first it was just me justifying whether I needed to do this vs. just wanting to do it... but it actually might become practical for a certain application that I won't bother going into right now...

Anyway... this is great Jase!!! Thanks a lot, and I'm certain we'll start seeing more of this sort of thing.

BTW... if it helps *YOU*, I've read MANY threads (on the flashlight freak boards and elsewhere) of people direct-driving these guys off of cells with voltage to match the LED (aka Li-Ions). In fact... SOMEtimes, that's all the "store-bought" flashlights are. No frills, no brightness modes... just on/off.

So... I will tell you with a LARGE amount of certainty that:

* If you heatsink properly (which looks like = DONE)
* If you match voltage w/ fwd v (P7 is like 3.7v, right?)
* If you don't plan on leaving it on for 3 hours straight
* If nothing is shorting + to - and you're sure of it...

...the thing should perform just fine! :)

Sure... would PWM really benefit in this case? You bet your butt. On that note, would constant current be better than direct driving? You bet MY butt.

BUT... it's not 100% necessary. Pardon the pun.

Jase Kala Maris
11-15-2008, 09:11 PM
Nova, any suggestions, encouragement (like the before post) is Fantastic.
This is my very first build and I think this is great cuse I don't know what the limitations of what you can and can't do.
I figured when I started this project that I'd learn as I went and if I was going to put all this time and effort (and money)into it I was going to jump 2 step ahead and try to make a crazy saber. So hopefully with everyones input and my stupidity this will happen... anyways!

Xwing also had a great idea for powering this led with a power extender made by Erv from plector labs but they don't seem to be for sale right now. I will email Erv about it later but I'm pretty sure he is weeded with CF thing.

Xwing if you happen to scan over this thread and your willing to give up any info you have, if any, that would be sweet.

From what Xwing told me this device will allow all the lighting affects to pass through it but up the current enough to juice this led up to potential. But more then that I don't know. And I don't know if there is a techical name for it to do a google search and read up on it or if this is an Erv exsclusive.

I bought some more stuff from KD that looked interesting...
20mm SSC Aspherical lens SKU: S004588 (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1789)
SSC P7 Li-ion 5-modes driver SKU: S005025 (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1845)
8 Degree CREE XR-E Collimator Lens w/ Holder SKU: S001488 (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1604)
20mm SSC LED Optical Lens SKU: S005130 (http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1846)

My Bill was $9.26 free shipping I love that place!

I'm going to Drive it with that Flashligh Driver for testing and go from there untill the USv2.0 comes, soon I hope.

Nova, I totally agree with you I've gotten 80% of my ideas off the DIY flashlight forums and websites! They are great and jesus you can hate me but whats a lightsaber but a flashlight. (Really cool flashlight with wicked sound that you can kick your buddies arse with! but a flashlight none the less)

and I almost bought a battery to direct drive it but I figured that driver board will be enough I have to stop spending money... but... can't...stop... need saber...

Novastar
11-18-2008, 06:33 PM
Mmm... the only other thing I can say here is about the optics...

Depending on what's being done... I don't think the optics would fit in a "standard" TCSS blade mount + heatsink (as in the copper ones). Does anyone know what optics we'd need to get to make that happen?

Otherwise, doing this should be fine (if there's a solution for the LED & optics to fit "tightly" in the mount solution):

* P7
* Single Li-Ion cell alone, directly driven (or possibly regulated by a driver)
* Optic solution (preferably that is pretty hardy and thick)
* Copper heatsink, lots of metal here!
* Switch

That's about it. Also, in a VERY creative saber, the P7 could be used with sound on some kind of DPDT (2 circuits) setup. One for the P7 on its own, one for the board.

At present, that 2 circuit thing would be a waste of the effects on a CF... but not a big deal at all on an FX. :)

Jase Kala Maris
11-23-2008, 06:30 PM
4.7v 2600mah battery pack + p7 chip = smoke

One led down :( .I ordered two more. I was alittle upset at myself for hooking that up direct, but I really didn't think it would go up in smoke... I think the 25% extra Vf did it in cuse I've seen them run on youtube up to 4000mah (@3.5Vf) without blowing (for a few seconds). I ran it for maybe 10seconds the copper heat sink got plenty hot but you could still touch it...

I got a nice focused bright spot on my ceiling about 4-5 feet away concentrated in an area of about 1 foot -+ 6 inches.

A Jedi must learn Patience... I'll wait till I get my drivers and USBv2.0 before playing around again.

sad update... stupid update... embarrasing update... but I thought I'd share.

Novastar
11-23-2008, 07:54 PM
Burning an LED is no big deal. Especially if it only costs $6 to $8. So I don't see it as "stupid".

I'm actually glad you posted about this, because recently I've seen some others posting that "voltage doesn't matter" on LEDs... they said: "it's just the current". Which is incorrect, since they are not only related (voltage and current)... but they do not work the same as "other lights" since they are diodes. Too much voltage = poof... and/or too much current = poof as well. :)

This might give us some time to think about optics anyhow... Tim does not have any ideas about what P7-compatible optics would fit the "traditional MHS" setups right now (meaning *not* the 1.25" holders), and I've asked at least 3 or 4 other resourceful and intelligent guys about this and... they don't have much to say on it either.

Any thoughts? Anyone? Bueller...? Bueller??? ... ..... Frye. Frye... FRYE...? :D

Jase Kala Maris
12-24-2008, 05:44 AM
running at k2 settings on UltraSound2 (which is also giving me trouble)... pretty disappointing but its not the led.

the led is running at 1500mah and I'm pretty much blind right now and man do I have a head ache to boot.

need some optics better then what I got but will have to work on it after holidays here's a couple of pics, they are crappy I'll try to get some vids after holidays also but like I said my MR Anakin is almost as bright.

All that being said I also am having problems with the blade film and static, all these things need to be Ironed out at a later date.

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC007252.jpg

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/DSC007262.jpg

bottom one has a yellow colored disc, the tcss orange looked really good too but it's so not as bright as it should be.

later guys

Sairon
12-24-2008, 11:21 AM
have you tried lee filters? that will help with colours and brightness. and insted of a k2 use a white p4, that will blow the k2 out of the water for brightness

Jase Kala Maris
12-25-2008, 12:54 AM
SSC P7 led running at k2 setting on the US board

Novastar
12-25-2008, 02:37 AM
Jase... the Ultrasound v2 board has a problem with getting full current while having any flicker settings ON.

You read that correctly... see Jon Judge's (Jonitus) latest vids for some examples of that.

Something was programmed incorrectly, and the board will NOT "flicker up to full current" when any type of flicker is occurring (lockup or blade setting alike).

So: try a solid blade (no flicker).

Jase Kala Maris
12-26-2008, 02:09 AM
unfortunately, novastar, I have noticed that also, its much brighter without the flicker.

I think that the first pic was taken with flicker and the second with it off. you can see the difference. But if I wanted no flicker I'd be way better off just getting a Driver form dealextreme or kaidomain (specific P7 flashlight one) something I think you had mentioned before which is a good idea, but this still wont fix my optics problems. You can see how much flareing is happening down at the base also, I need to get that more focused down the blade.

it's alittle fustrating cuse I know this thing could be so much brighter.

***A little review for those that don't read everypost in long threads like this(I do this somtimes) this is a Seoul Semiconductor P7 LED that should be running at something like 3.5V and 2800mah or so, it's running in the pics at 3.5v and 1500mah. AND the optics are modded flashlight collimator(which is working crappy IMO)***

If anyone ever gets some more info or ideas please feel free to throw them out there...

Novastar
12-26-2008, 02:54 AM
The only suggestion I have right now is that you should PROBABLY try using those driver circuits (to get some PWM + ~3A)... or just go direct drive, and the LED will suck out as much as it can / how much you allow from the cells.

You'd obviously want to make sure that the cells could provide:

* Constant draw of ~3A (SAFELY!!!) :)
* The appropriate voltage to get to that 3A... which may be > 3.5v

If you want sound, I'd go with a DPDT switch--so 2 different circuits--and a different battery solution for your MR/whatever sound card... especially initially for testing! :)

Sairon
12-26-2008, 09:46 AM
if he is running on a ultra board at the voltage he needs but not enough ma, shoudln't he be able to ad two 700 ma pucks to the led connections so it gets what it needs(the led)?

Novastar
12-26-2008, 06:27 PM
Putting two buckpucks together (as far as I've learned)... isn't very efficient, and it's not a "linear addition" thing. In other words, 700mA buck + 700mA puck... is NOT equal to "1400mA output".

Additionally, the Seoul P7 (seven, not p4)... will get it's best/ideal output when you feed it ~3A. So... 3000mA. None of the current saber board solutions output this crazy amount of heat / energy.

This is why *I* would recommend DPDT + two circuits. Doesn't mean you couldn't do some kind of relay, but... I have many reasons for suggesting the 2 circuit thing.

Sairon
12-26-2008, 07:38 PM
I mean put the two 700 pucks on the led connections with the P7 connected to the pucks with the k2 setting on, 700 + 700 +1500= 2900, which is close to 3000.

just a random question(well it has to do with an Idea of mine), do you think the P7 could handle 6volts/4aa batteries?

Jase Kala Maris
12-26-2008, 09:39 PM
So I had this Idea, but I don't know enough about these things that I'm about to suggest, so I thought I'd throw it out there and see what you experts think.

I think I read on one of the UltraSound Board threads that the US2.0 board regulates the current to what the led settings are... does this mean that it passes through the unused voltage? In simple terms if I have 7.4v 2400mah battery pack hooked up to the board and the board uses 1v ish (I'm guessing) then is 6.4V passing through to the led etc...?

Someone wrote that they wanted to run there lux V at 1500mahs and could they run it on the lux III settings with a higher voltage battery pack and the reply was this would work...

Soooooo... I was wondering If I was to use the before mentioned 7.4v 2400mah battery settup runing through the board at say the K2 (no flicker)settings then wire this up before the led back into the board...(or I also have a 4.7v 2600mah battery pack I could use)----->

http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/untitled.jpg

- Accepts one Li-ion (e.g. 18650) (I have 2)- Direct drive P7 LED
- 10% 45% 100%
- High frenqency PWM
- 17mm diameter PCB
- Gold plated PCB for superior conductivity

Dimension: Diameter 16-17mm*Height 4.5mm
Input Voltage: 3.2-4.5V
Output current: 100-3500mA
Modes: High/Mid/Low/Strobe/SOS

Testing CSX0I P7 LED
Vin(V) Iout(A)
4.1 3.3
4.0 3
3.9 2.9
3.8 2.7
3.7 2.3
3.6 2
3.5 1.7
3.4 1.4
3.3 1.2
http://i423.photobucket.com/albums/pp319/jasekalamaris/CRAZY.jpg
would this work or would this try to draw to much through the board or make the board go puff of smoke? Would the current going back into the board mess crap up... does the neg on the board go to anything or just back to the batteries etc.

Now that I've confused the crap outta you all away we go.

Sairon
12-27-2008, 08:38 AM
I think it should work seeing as I had the same Idea, as long as you are running the p7 at the volatge and stuff it needs or lower nothing bad should happen, I think.........

Jase Kala Maris
12-27-2008, 03:57 PM
The first P7 I had went up in smoke when I hooked it direct up to a 4.7v fully charge battery pack. I'm guessing that the volts shot up to 6ish for a couple of seconds when I first turned it on and that's what fried it. So I'd say nope on that "can it handle 6v question."

I'm just worried if there's anything inline on the board after the Neg lead cuse I'm pretty damn sure 10w will toast the USB2.0.

If the next thing inline is the battery nothing else then this setup should work. I'm just going to wait for a while and see if anyone raises any concerns.

Sairon
12-27-2008, 05:35 PM
what if you put a different battery pack in to connect to the pucks, instead of connecting the pucks to the board, (so it might ad another switch or two so what) then there is no possiblity of killing the board.

Jase Kala Maris
12-27-2008, 06:56 PM
That's been a thought, I was thinking of doing (Circuit 1)-one momentary switch, one 3.7/2400 mah trustfire to the led with K2 setting etc, to turn it on.

Then seperate (Circuit 2) on another switch, like an overdrive switch, to pump the other 1500mah into the led another 3.7V/2400mah Trustfire battery and a flashlight driver (some have fast strobe setting which might look cool)

The thing that I don't understand/not sure is (I hope I explain this right) that there will be 2 postives going into the LED and 2 negatives coming out of the Led. how can I make sure the Volts and Currents coming out get seperated correctly and again don't end up sending all those watts into the USB2.0 and frying it...

also question 2 is if you have this setup 2 seperate curcuits going into the LED both at 3.7V/1500mah does that equal 7.4V/3000Mah or 3.7V/3000mah 0R 7.4V/1500?

Been rolliing this around so long in my head that I'm confusing myself.

And thanks for letting me bounce all these ideas off you!

Sairon
12-27-2008, 07:05 PM
you know you the led has two positive and negitive leads, mabye you if you connect the board to one and the puck and batteries to the other it won't blow up? just a thought.

Jase Kala Maris
12-27-2008, 08:00 PM
I'd have to start over with a star and a emitter, bend one lead each up in the air (pos/neg leads) then soldier the other two to fix it to the board, then attach the wires right to the emitter leads, and the other to to the board itself.

That should run 2 pads/ 2pads like you said...

huge pain in the butt but that might be the only way...

Jase Kala Maris
12-27-2008, 08:20 PM
yea the more I think about it that's the best safest way to go...

I'll need a strobe flashlight driver, clicky switch ,LED emitter and Star.

And figure out how to do the batteries different, need like one of those setups that tims selling and a trustfire 3.7 2400mah, and two recharge ports...

ok I think I need to lay this all out wire out a diagram etc. then put this on hold cuse I'm getting a headache...

Sairon
12-27-2008, 08:21 PM
you shoud do that, my head is spinning and I'm not even doing the work:)

Hasid Lafre
12-27-2008, 10:09 PM
This has bad written all over it.

Jase Kala Maris
12-28-2008, 12:55 PM
believe me every other thought about how to work this saber has


'I got a bad feeling about this' before and after it.

I going to keep thinking about this and bounceing idea's off everyone but for now I'm going to sub in a Lux V cyan for my saber and get it up and runnning maybe powder coated etc then come back to this idea...

I think some of these ideas have great potential but its still a moot piont without any optics- the focal length for this LED is really long lenth wise (like X-Wing had stated long long ago) and its just not worth frying something for a blade that's going to be like 700 lumens at the base and 150 at the tip...

but if anyones got anything please post

Darth Morbius
12-28-2008, 02:07 PM
NO... don't do it, unless you want to be out $120...:roll:

Novastar
12-29-2008, 04:02 AM
AAAAH!!!!

Jase, yes, I just caught these latest posts, and I'd have to go with saying it's a 95% chance that by tying buckpucks "over" or together with an Ultrasound (or CF for that matter) would be a bad idea.

I thought I had made it clear to someone else posting here, but I'll say it again... and please everyone--know that it is not trying to give you problems, I'm trying to HELP you!!!

Stringing together buckpucks and/or "drivers" (like CF, USv2, etc. etc.) is NOT "additive". As in... "700mA driver + 700mA driver = 1400mA???"... NOOOOOOOOOO! It does not. I learned this from Edwin (Eandori), and I trust his experience. I've never TRIED doing anything so insane either because I trust him that much, btw.

So, again... stringing together buckpucks and/or "drivers" (like CF, USv2, etc. etc.) in general... is a very bad idea.

Using a "two circuit" setup with a singular switch (DPDT or DPST) is perfectly fine if you want a buckpuck over here on circuit #1 and a _______ board here on circuit #2.

You could use a relay to get things all set up correctly too--protecting a board from receiving too much current, while feeding an "uber" LED the massive 2A or 3A or 4A lunch it wants. *Chomp*.

Both CF and Ultrasound can safely handle 11v. 12v is listed as OK on the US, but on CF... this would be pushing it!! (plus, you do not really need this much juice). I wouldn't even recommend it for the Ultrasound board.

Both CF and Ultrasound can "spit out" a maximum of 1500mA. In some cases, the voltage required to feed an LED that much will vary... but again... they can both output a maximum of 1500mA.

Erv has shown that extender circuits can be used to output more current (in a limited fashion) if need be. You'd have to refer to his .pdf files and/or message him in order to understand this better. This is NOT for the "lambda" user. If you don't know what this means... you may actually *BE* a lambda user. :D That's not a bad thing though.

Finally... for those who REALLY want to push massive current through things (for example, 2A, 3A, 4A)... try direct drive/resistor experiments with appropriate battery solutions, or look for special PWM circuits that are specifically made to do that.

Hope it helps...

Jase Kala Maris
01-21-2009, 04:41 AM
Hey guys. I took alittle break with the holidays and all.

This is as far as I've gotten. No sound installed here's the details and a vid.
This is not complete until its got some sound in my mind so its a work in progress.

Ok details, simple set up.
Toggle switch.
4.8V 2700mah battery pack.
PWM flashlight driver 10%/60%/100% SOS/ Strobe modes (3000Mah claimed 100%)
P7 D Bin SSC led specs say its 800-900 lumens at 3.6V 2800mah
MHS hilts and copper heat sink.
6feet ppl, mirror tip, sanded pc blade
flashlight reflector as optics.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brkuIJdP8aE

it's on HI mode, I'm having problems get through the modes with the toggle switch and need to replace it with a clicky switch.

edit... added another video.
tcss orange filter, strobe setting, very lit room.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8Y0xR7VZTE

Novastar
01-21-2009, 02:15 PM
Those look great Jase! Thanks for doing that...

Is the flashlight reflector metal or plastic?

Jase Kala Maris
01-21-2009, 03:06 PM
Aluminium I assume, same set up from page 9 of this thread.

gets hot as heck on HI, but the strobe settings work well for keeping the heat down but the strobe is just alittle to slow for a nice flicker settings. just by a little- its hard to see in the vids.

also the filters are very washed out with the brightness of the led - yellow and orange look best all the others turned pastel.

I'm going to try some other stuff lee filters and the new ultra edge blade and see if I can get it alittle better before adding sound.

and Thanks.

Novastar
01-21-2009, 09:45 PM
Right Jase... when white light gets bright enough--certain filtering becomes REALLY difficult to do without also dimming the light significantly... or simply having to deal with the "pastel-ness".

For example, in theatrical lighting--you ought to see how "deep" filters look... sometimes they don't even look like the color you'd expect. "Orange" actually looks like a "mud red" or something, and blues and purples often just look black! :) But... since TONS of light comes from these lights... there's a lot to filter.

So... although it's not a winning battle, I'd suggest DEEPER "Lee filters" to get colors you want... but... yup--they will degrade the brightness if that's the way to put it.

Still... as you're CLEARLY aware... a P7... is a P7!!!!!! WOOOO!!!

Goodman
01-21-2009, 10:24 PM
Tasty. I'll certainly be following this thread more closely...

Pics of your setup please, oh industrious one?

Jase Kala Maris
01-21-2009, 10:42 PM
*snicker*

on strobe it actually hurts your eyes. Which is fun, in a burn your cornea kinda way.

I'm looking up a couple of different flashlight drivers to play with and the idea of maybe running 3 different 1000mah drivers in parrellel like 3 buck pucks.
( or just run strobe and adding a 1000mah buck puck in parellel...hmmm... that would really only be overdriven 250mah for each die.... but it gets hella hot already I'd have to add a fan and drill some holes for intake and venting, crap I'll never get around to sound)


for now I'm happy blinding my friends when they come over!

this is a super simple setup just replace the buckpuck or resistor in your wireing diagram with flashlight driver, fyi flashlight drivers use a clicky switch for scrolling throught the menu and most are 5 mode low/med/hi strobe sos... some have more modes like fast strobe and police strobe which I want to play with next.

Ultra is using clicky switches as hidden swicthes on the bottom of the hilt... makeing our lightsabers even more like flashlights.
flashlight modding community will be a huge help with this hobby lots of cross over.

I just ordered a multi meter that a 3 in one lux, current volts and something else so when it comes I'll get some hard data for you all but don't expect that for a couple of weeks prooly (sorry)

Voice
05-19-2009, 11:24 AM
Anybody had any more luck finding optics? I thought I'd found some, but (once again) they turned out to be too large to fit in a saber.

Novastar
05-19-2009, 02:48 PM
No luck here either, I'm afraid...

But--I haven't really been "on the saber thing" for some months now.

DJMoonbass
05-22-2009, 11:51 AM
hey nova... is there a way to mount one of the LEDengin 15watt LEDs? ive just been brainstorming it would be a great presentation item for my club...

vargose
05-22-2009, 02:06 PM
hey nova... is there a way to mount one of the LEDengin 15watt LEDs? ive just been brainstorming it would be a great presentation item for my club...

DJ If you really want something brighter than the perfectly acceptable Seoul P4, then use a LEDEngin 10W or a Cree MCE. They come on stars and regular optics should be fine. All you have to worry about is how to power them. The 15W is more trouble than its worth.

Novastar
05-23-2009, 03:19 AM
I'm going to have to agree with Vargose. Also... as always, you want to start simple and work up to something more innovative.

It's pretty hard to just "jump into uber" anyhow... with most anything in life actually.

Sairon
05-23-2009, 09:35 AM
Got some optics that should fit (some user here has used them in a saber, don't remember who) apparently even though they are for the cree xre q5 they work on P7's

http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1604

Voice
07-30-2009, 10:32 AM
Awesome! Looks like I have an order to place. Thanks. (Right in time, too. Someone was screwing with my saber and they've managed to kill it somehow.)

As for why look for something brighter than the P4? I've got my heart set on a yellow blade, and even with a wide selection of theater gels, I haven't been able to get a good, reasonably bright yellow.

Sairon
07-30-2009, 10:35 AM
Do ya got some of the lee filters? They work great.

Voice
07-30-2009, 07:17 PM
Yeah. Got two 'sampler' packs from a local theater store, and a 1" hole punch from a local scrap-booking store. Went through about 12 gels before I found one that looked ok, but the tip is still too dang dim.

Jase Kala Maris
11-04-2009, 11:29 PM
if anyone was still looking into this I found this, don't know where to buy it up thought I'd through it out there.

http://www.led-spot.com/data/Seoul%20DataSheet_Boom_p7.pdf

Jase Kala Maris
11-04-2009, 11:34 PM
also the cree is alot smaller (lense is about 5mm) and the P7 is like 8mm so you can't use them... I'm about 99% sure I bought that item and it didn't fit.

bzylman
11-30-2009, 03:06 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVMrRb2WyCk

Guys voice cracks me up.

Jedi-Loreen
11-30-2009, 03:11 PM
That's rather rude, bzylman. :mad:

It sounds to me like he might have some sort of dental appliance in his mouth.

bzylman
11-30-2009, 03:16 PM
Create a circuit for the P7 with a good heat sync, using two CR123 batteries.
Get that working good.

Get your lightsaber set using whatever drive you want and wire in a LED at lower lumens to power a crystal chamber. Basically, replace the lux or cree or p4 with a lower lumen led and the same voltage. Get that working the way you want with sound, pulse, vibration motor or whatever else.

Do a protected switch to power both on at the same time and the tricky part is to do a crossover to get the pulse to alter the current going to the p7. This is the part that I can't seem to find. You need to protect the soundboard from back chat. Thats also a tricky part.

I think that will work better.

Jedi-Loreen
11-30-2009, 03:52 PM
It's called a heat sink, you're not synchronizing anything to/with it. :rolleyes:

Blue Fox
12-05-2009, 12:58 PM
I guess Scotty hasn't come back in time yet to invent it for us.

since someone already showed that there is Transparent aluminum I'll just say this:

Yay for Star Trek Tech! :P

Kal El Rah
12-05-2009, 01:29 PM
Excellent find BF.