Help With Wiring Hasbro Qui-Gon to Corbin's Driver

[simi]

I'm kind of stuck right now. I am trying to solder a Hasbro Qui-Gon Jinn sound board to Corbin's 3 watt driver. I found these pictures which are an exact duplicate of my sound board. I don't know what wires go to what, LED, battery, etc. So I am asking for help identifing them.

I have read that to use a FX sound board with Corbin's driver, you'll need a Corbin's latching driver. I then read an entry from Lord Maul explaining that since Hasbro boards are momentary, you'll need Corbin's momentary driver. I own one of each, should I be using the latching or momentary driver with Corbin's board then?

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/2-1.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/2-1.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/379454241_0e8d6396c0_b.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/379454241_0e8d6396c0_b.jpg

[Kant Lavar]

From the pictures, I'd say the blue & black pair are going to the light, the blue and orange are the speaker (which is the round sliver do-hickey), and the black and red are your battery terminals. Not sure what the white one is, but my guess would be ground.

Granted, this is just based off looking at the pictures and what's written on them, so take this for what it's worth. But that's my bet as to what's what.

Insofar as the black cylinder goes, I'm not sure, but if your board has it, or it doesn't but is otherwise identical (i.e. it doesn't look like something broke off), I'd say don't worry about it.

[simi]

I'm guessing the black cylinder is a motion or clash sensor. If it is, it is in a weird spot. The clash and motion sensors were 2 seperate devices in my Luke ROTJ Hasbro saber. This one didn't have any attached to it, which is why I am guessing it is a motion, clash, or combonation sensor.

Do you know what type of board and switch I should use?

[Atomic]

The experts will hopefully chime in, but I believe MR boards are latching and Hasbro boards are momentary. From the looks of the diagrams in the threads below, you need a momentary DPSTswitch to run both, but that's the area I'm most gray on.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/soundHasbro.jpg

[simi]

Lmao....yeah, I had a copy of that diagram saved on my computer. I was using it for my Hasbro Luke ROTJ but I think I fried it. I had it working properly except there was no sound and it stayed on despite pressing the on/off switch. I was using Corbin's latching board though so maybe that is why the on/off switch didn't work. Regardless, that was the reason I took apart my Jinn saber.

So I'll stick with the momentary board then. The momentary switches are the ones that do not click when you press them, they just pop back up correct?

So you're saying the blue and black wires are for the LED? I thought the LED was soldered from Corbin's board as opposed to the sound board.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/3.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/3.jpg

[Kant Lavar]

It might be - I've never seen Corbin's board. Maybe they would go to the power terminals of the Corbin board? But I can see that one of that pair (the black) is labeled "LAMP-".

[simi]

I had this one working the same as my Luke ROTJ. It came on but again, no sound and the on/off switch (momentary) would not do anything. It just stayed on and turned off when I disconnected the battery. Since the Qui-Gon on the momentary board performed the same way as the Luke on the latching board, I'm starting to think that maybe I didn't fry my Luke board. I can't seem to find the right combination to get it to turn on/off from the switch and produce any sound. It is supposed to hum like and make noises if wired correctly, no?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I had one of these in my custom saber and I remember the red and white wires were for the switch...the orange wire to the speaker was also wired up as the batt positive, as they had a shared connection in the saber. The same with the positive for the led. The blue was the speaker negative....The black wire between the red and white wires is the battery negative, and the other black wire, I think was the negative to the led...I have some pictures somewhere on my pc that show the wiring...I just need to find them to verify. Also, since this is one of the older boards, it was designed to run with 3 volts...I had mine going on 4.5 and it worked fine...I think I'd avoid giving it any more than that, though. X-wing has fried many of these when giving them more than that.

Since you're using Corbin's board, you don't really need to worry about what wire should go to led, though.The Corbin board will handle that.

[simi]

Thanks, I'll give that a try. So then I don't have to worry about connecting the white wire as well as the LED pos/neg wires from the sound board to anything then? Right now I am running it off of 4 AAA batteries. The diagram I read from Corbin suggests using 5 AA. What is better to use for my application, 4 AAA or 5 AA? If you can find those pix that would be AWESOME!!!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You'll need to use the red and white wires on the soundboard for the switch, other wise the board may not come on when you tap the switch. But you're right, you don't need to worry about hooking up the led leads to the soundboard. 4 or 5 AAA or AA batteries will probably fry that hasbro board...it likes no more than three of either size battery. You could use five, and install a contact in between the third and fourth battery with a wire soldered to it leading to the hasbro board. I've seen this method used before when running a Lux V with an MR board before.

[simi]

I finally had time to try the wiring set up you suggested. That combination of wires will not do
anything, I made a diagram on how I have it currently soldered.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/Jinn.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/Jinn-1.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Well, the pictures I have of the wiring on the saber that board was in don't really show much...just a jumble of wires...I replaced that board with an MR mostly because they are much easier to work with than the hasbro...those have too many common connections in them with the screw-on emitters and contacts to be able to keep it straight what the wires are for. I guess I'd PM x-wing your diagram and see what he says...he's used more Hasbro's than I have.

[xwingband]

X-wing has fried many of these when giving them more than that.


Yes I did... I have a bag of well over a dozen at home. The Qui-gon was one I was sad about.

On the last drawing, the lamp neg is the only one you will not use. The qui gon used a bulb. It got the positive straight from the batteries to the bulb.

SOOOO... the other one you have marked as going no where is your positive battery. Hence the reason it doesn't work, it's not getting power. The red positive power you have marked going to the speaker should be dropped.

That should get you in business. I liked the sound of the qui-gon and it's size. I miss that board... it fried randomly. It will take 4.5V no problem though.

[simi]

Thanks X-Wing, I re-wired what I needed to and I finally have it working for the most part. I am using a DPDT toggle switch for the moment until I can find a push button switch. I have to flip the switch to on, then off, then on again for the LED to come on. I have read a few posts where people actually removed the sensor soldered on the sound board and moved it. Is it more beneficial to dettach it from the board or does it really matter? I have an extra motion sensor from my Luke ROTJ and another sensor from my Obi-Wan ROTS, I don't know if one of those would even be better to use than the one currently soldered on Jinn's board. Right now I am only have 2 problems. I have a clash sensor soldered on Corbin's driver. When the unit is on and I tap the sensor, the LED cuts off and stays off instead of shimmering. The other problem is no sound still. I know the speaker is good and I changed it just to be safe but no sound at all. I'd like to have the sensor and sound working but I'd settle for the sound. Did I possibly wire something wrong or maybe fry the board? I am using the 2 original orange and blue wires for the speaker connection. This is my updated diagram.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/Jinn.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/Jinn.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/379454241_0e8d6396c0_b.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/379454241_0e8d6396c0_b.jpg

[simi]

Hmmmm....I was hoping someone knew what I can do to get the sound on my board. I have an Obi-Wan ROTS, Anakin ROTS, and Build-Your-Own saber. Has anyone tried to hook up a Corbin's Driver to any of these?

[Matt Thorn]

Reviving an old thread here. I don't know if you found the answer to your problem, simi, but I'm guessing that it stems from trying to use a tactile switch as a DPDT switch. I made the same mistake, and got some funky results. It looks like it can be used that way, but it can't. The challenge is to find a momentary DPDT, and these are not common, apparently. I was lucky enough to find a momentary push-button DPDT (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=KFo7JewZbUGmTJZE7V0kbw%3d%3d ), and though I haven't tried it out yet, I'm hoping to use it to join a momentary Corbin with the same Hasbro board you have.