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Jay-gon Jinn
04-01-2008, 10:20 AM
I found a place online that sells already polished brass sink drain pipes, and decided to do a couple new brass sabers using these along with some modified MHS parts. Here's what I'm starting with:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0557.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0558.jpg
This is Brass Saber #2. (Brass saber #1 can be seen under my topic, "Jay-gonn Jinn's BRass/MHS saber") It will feature some of the design elements from my custom saber, like a full "sleeve" or "overlay" with a cut-out for the grips. It will be running a green K2 directly from an MR Anakin Skywalker ROTS soundboard, 4-AA battery pack with optional in-hilt rechargeablilty built-in, MHS blade holder style 5 with a style 3 MPS, a ribbed extension, and a machined aluminum CT knob. This will also use a Parks laser-cut control box/clamp piece as well. All of the MHS parts for this one had to be further machined to fit inside the drain pipe. THese are a slightly heavier guage than standard chrome pipes, so Tim Machined the O.D. down to 1.42", and they fit perfectly.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0555.jpg
I'm not crazy about the finish on the Parks clamp, so I'll have to see if I can polish it up with the buffing wheel.

Brass Saber #3 is going to be built from these parts:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0559.jpg

This will use MHS style 1 blade holder, a ribbed extension, MPS pommel style 1, parks "R" style control box, an MR Anakin ROTS soundboard, 4-AA battery pack with optional in-hilt rechargeability, A green K2 and a machined aluminum CT knob. Just to get an idea of the size of this "R" control box, here it is next to a standard MHS heatsink:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0556.jpg

Malaki Skywalker
04-01-2008, 01:49 PM
I can't wait to see the beauty finished ;) Its going to be shiny for sure :cool:

vortextwist
04-01-2008, 03:13 PM
Very nice jay! It's gonna look awesome!

jpbeck
04-01-2008, 04:16 PM
oooooooooooooooooooo shinny. Look'en good! Get to work. :)

Er Dan Gill
04-01-2008, 06:02 PM
Hey Jay Gon, got a link for those sink tubes?

vortextwist
04-01-2008, 06:04 PM
im not jay but here ya go

http://www.signaturehardware.com/class307

37H4N
04-01-2008, 06:17 PM
Yay more shiny brass sabers! I likey the pretty shiny sabers. Can't wait to see.

Er Dan Gill
04-01-2008, 06:38 PM
im not jay but here ya go

http://www.signaturehardware.com/class307 (http://www.signaturehardware.com/class307)

Thanks VT.

TD-2272
04-01-2008, 08:18 PM
Looks like it is gonna be purty, so does this signature hardware inner dia fits over MHS parts. I saw these awhile back but was not sure.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-01-2008, 11:49 PM
These DO NOT FIT over the MHS parts. I had to have Strydur machine them down to 1.42" from their original 1.45" o.d. to allow them to fit. These are listed as 20 ga. tubes, and I think the MHS is designed to fit inside a 22 ga. pipe.

EDIT:
You can safely have Strydur machine the MHS parts down to 1.43" and these will fit nice and snug over the MHS parts.

TD-2272
04-01-2008, 11:53 PM
Yeah I thought so, thanks Jay.

DACOTA
04-02-2008, 08:53 AM
Yes! More sabers from the brass master. I cant wait!:D

Jay-gon Jinn
04-02-2008, 10:14 AM
I just finished cutting some of the brass tubing, and have taken some new measurements. MHS parts should fit if you have Tim machine them down to 1.44". The original measurement of 1.42" is a bit loose, but still do-able.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
04-02-2008, 02:48 PM
I picked up several pieces of brass tubing (unpolished) at the scrap yard, thinking I would do great things with it, only to discover that it is the slightly smaller stuff and wouldn't fit my MHS parts. Maybe some day I'll order some parts from Tim and have them machined down like you did.

Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

strengthofrage
04-02-2008, 03:53 PM
Obi-Dar, you could still use the brass tubes you got at the scrap yard... instead of fitting them over the MHS parts completely you could use them as plates if you cut sections. Layer them over other tubes as panels or half/three quarter shrouds...

Those tubes are nice Jay-Gon, these new sabers are going to look good :)

Klaatu
04-02-2008, 05:34 PM
Please forgive me for such a dumb question, I see on the site that it sales pipe with a 1 1/2 diameter. Why will it not with with out mods to the tcss stuff?

vortextwist
04-02-2008, 05:44 PM
becouse the tubes jay got are thicker then the standard sinktubes. therefore the ID is smaller.

Hasid Lafre
04-02-2008, 10:49 PM
with sinktubes the od is the same but the id changes with thickness or guage. that way the pluming standards can stay the same without making all new shtuff.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-03-2008, 12:25 AM
I said I did some cutting yesterday, and here are the pics!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0560.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0561.jpg

I still had the metal cutting blade in the compound miter saw, so I decided to use that for the cuts. It cuts much faster than using a tubing cutter, but results in some deburring and sanding/polishing later on. I set the blade angle to 30 deg:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0564.jpg

And made the cut on the tube for BS#2:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0565.jpg

I reset the blade to 0 deg. and cut the other end to length:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0566.jpg

Now for the tube for BS#3. This one needed to have the lip cut off first:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0567.jpg

I flipped it around and did another 30 deg. cut on the other end. Then I taped it up for the next cut. I need a small shroud for the emitter on this one's emitter:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0568.jpg

All done with these cuts!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0569.jpg

The parts will have to be lighly sanded with some 400 or 800 grit paper around the cuts...the saw leaves some burn marks and pits at the edge of each cut. No biggie, just a bit of sanding and polishing as opposed to sanding the crap out of a chrome tube to get down to the brass underneath!

Jay-gon Jinn
04-03-2008, 12:35 AM
I test fit the parts next. This is Brass Saber #3:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0570.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0571.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0572.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0573.jpg

Pretty simple construction. I think if I do this again, I might just order the 5" double threaded extension instead of two of the MHS sinktube adaptors. I wound up cutting the brass tube to about 5" to get a decent length for this one.

Brass saber #2 needed the tube de-burred. Here it is before deburring:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0575.jpg

I then test fit the parts in this tube:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0576.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0577.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0578.jpg

I also slid the Parks Laser-Cut clamp into place. It must've had a burr inside it too, because the damn thing scratched the hell out the tube when I put it on and took it off. Looks more sanding and polishing will be in store for this one too....oh well....here's how it looked:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0579.jpg

I still need to decide if i want to cut the window for the grips like my custom saber, or have it reversed. regardless, I taped a piece of graph paper on to make the template:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0580.jpg

This'll take some careful planning....

Hasid Lafre
04-03-2008, 02:48 AM
Jay it amazes me what you can do with them sinktubes. I dont have the patience to deal with it. I would do the reverse like on your custom.

I have very good feelings the clamp one is gonna turn out extremo sweet.

Dark Helmet
04-03-2008, 10:50 PM
lookin' pretty sweet so far, i love that brass with the silver. I can't wait to see these all done.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-04-2008, 11:32 AM
Okay, did some more work today. My feelings about the results are somewhat mixed, though....you'll see what I mean in a bit. Now on to pictures!

I drew up the window cut-out for the grip section, and put the tube i the vise on my drill press. It works out well, 'cause the table swings from side to side to aalow for easier access to the sides of the tube:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0582.jpg

I started out with the cut-off wheel on my rotary tool:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0583.jpg

I cut all of the straight cuts first, then cut across the corners, and the piece fell off:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0584.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0585.jpg
I'll hang on to that, it may come in handy sometime!

I swapped out the cutting wheel and installed my side scrolling bit. THe "Human Milling Machine" strikes again!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0586.jpg

I did the first corner allright, but on the second one, the bit decided to jump out of the tube and skittered across it! AAARRRRRGGGHH!!!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0592.jpg

After some choice words and a few minutes berating myself, I calmed down and finished it off, this time using the cutting wheel to remove more material from the corners, and using the side scrolling bit to round them off:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0588.jpg

I put on the sanding drum and did a little de-burring:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0594.jpg

And then some filing to try and square everything up a bit more:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0595.jpg

I also used a rat-tail file in the corners to further round them off, and then used some well worn 400 grit paper to sand on the surface. I also test assembled it to be sure the parts are going to line up right:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0596.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0598.jpg

The grips line up in the window perfectly! Success! My only gripe is the chewed-up line on the tube....and all the scratches you can see in that shot that were left by the clamp the first time I slid it on there....I also have a couple shots of the saber with the clamp installed, but you'll have to wait until later to see those! :)

TD-2272
04-04-2008, 03:01 PM
Looks great so far, I loves it

Jay-gon Jinn
04-05-2008, 12:23 AM
Here's a few shots of Brass Saber #2 with the clamp on it:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0602.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0604.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0605.jpg
You can see my screw-up with th rotary tool pretty well in that shot....:(

and that clamp needs to be polished sooo bad...

Hasid Lafre
04-05-2008, 12:30 AM
couldent you fix that some how?

Jay-gon Jinn
04-05-2008, 12:34 AM
I'm going to try to sand and buff it out.

DACOTA
04-05-2008, 08:42 AM
I absolutely love your brass sabers! Great job man. Your very inspiring.:mrgreen:

[EDIT] Whoot! 900 posts!

Jay-gon Jinn
04-05-2008, 08:58 AM
Thanks Dacota. These are fun to do, but somewhat nerve-wracking, because the brass scratches easily when you're working on it.

I had a slight change in plans, though. I was testing out the location of the clamp, and decided that where it needed to go would put it right where the screws go for the front sinktube adaptor. So I placed an order for two of the 5" double threaded extensions, and requested that Tim skim them down to 1.42"-1.43" like the rest of these. That'll allow for the clamp to go anywhere, and free up the 4 adaptors for use in 4 more brass ones in the style of my first brass saber:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Polished%20Brass%20MHS%20and%20Sinktube%20Sab er/Brass_MHS_saber_32.jpg

Kant Lavar
04-05-2008, 09:34 AM
Gorgeous...

Barmic Rin
04-05-2008, 01:16 PM
So pretty.

Any link for the Brass supplier Jay? I wanna do a KOTOR inspired MHS with brass housing.

http://flagshipeclipse.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=27&pos=35

Imagine this with a shroud of brass. I reckon it'd rock.

Hasid Lafre
04-05-2008, 01:23 PM
Hay br, as for the hilt I got an idea for ya. iam pming you a link.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-06-2008, 01:47 PM
Here's where I got these pipes:
http://www.signaturehardware.com/class307

The MHS parts probably won't fit without further machine work done to them, just pay Tim to do it for you. An o.d. of about 1.42"-1.43" will work. There is a bit of variation in these tubes, so get them before you order your MHS parts and take a measurement. I have a hilt that has a 1.44" o.d., and it fit into the short tube fine, but wouldn't go into the longer tube at all.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-10-2008, 11:07 AM
I finally had some time this last week to do a bit more work to these saber hilts! I got the soundboard for one of them wired up as well:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0608.jpg

This is pretty typical of an MR boards' wiring. This aprticular board is an Anakin ROTS FFX board....I like it for it's ease of wiring and the soundset isn't bad either. I have the negatives from the led strip bundled together, and also the positive for the led and clash sensor:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0609.jpg

In this shot, you can see the speaker wires and the battery wires. The positive to the speaker is the yellow wire. That is also connected to the red positive from the battery holder. The black is obviously the negative from the battery holder, and the brown is the speaker negative.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0610.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0612.jpg
You can also see in the back ground a large piece of shrink tubing. I have recently begun wrapping the board in 1" heatshrink tubes to prevent shorting against the hilts. I need to dismantle the rest of my sinktube sabers and do thhat to them as well.I may have a pic of the finished wiring before final assembly.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-10-2008, 11:18 AM
I also completed the work to the brass sleeves. I used my tubing cutter to add the grip marks to each of the tubes:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0613.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0615.jpg

I also worked out where i'm putting the clamp on BS#2:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0614.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0618.jpg
This placement will hide the scratch the best, and is the most comfortable to hold. The front edge of the clamp should be lined up with where the threads end in the 5" MHS extension.

For BS#3, I added the grips marks at about 3/8" apart:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0619.jpg
The control box will sit like so:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0620.jpg

I also drilled and tapped for the CT knobs. these will hold the sleeves in place on the 5" extensions:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0622.jpg

Construction of these two hilts is nearing completion!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0624.jpg

I just need to figure out what to do about the switches!!

Hasid Lafre
04-10-2008, 11:42 AM
Again, VERY SICK!

xl97
04-10-2008, 12:04 PM
some of the best stuff I've seen... I love when people have good ideas to make things more 'custom' instead of just stock parts.. :)

A+

Er Dan Gill
04-10-2008, 04:22 PM
Wow, Jay Gon those are looking great. Now hurry uphttp://smilies.vidahost.com/otn/happy/zzwhip.gif and finish them, I want to see some pics of those lit up!

DARTH KALEL
04-10-2008, 09:20 PM
those look awesome
can't wait to see them glow

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
04-10-2008, 09:54 PM
Looking good! I'm sorry about the scratch. I know your pain. BTDTBTTS*



(*been there, done that, bought the t-shirt)

37H4N
04-10-2008, 10:36 PM
*insert nerdy squeel here*

I love the first one with the clamp! Get it done and post lit up pics! :shock:

Jay-gon Jinn
04-11-2008, 10:01 AM
Now I need to work on the switch placement on both sabers. The Parks clamp came with a green circuit board that slides into a slot in the clamp. The problem with it is that it's too shallow in the clamp....I'd prefer it to be closer to the top, so I can mount a switch underneath and cover the switch. Here's what I have for the box and clamp:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0630.jpg

The two black cicuit boards are from some calculator bubbles that I got from a friend of mine. I used the bubbles on my custom saber, and held onto the boards for just such an occasion as this. I could mount one either way in the box:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0628.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0629.jpg

The boards on the box will cover up the slide switch that will be mounted to the saber body, and covered by the switchbox. I'll have to drill a hole in the box and widen it to allow for the switch movement.

Hasid Lafre
04-11-2008, 10:05 AM
Sence your gonna use it to cover the switch I would use the 2nd black card(bottem one) but if you were gonna mount a push button in it to where the top of the pluger woud sit slightly higher than the card I would use the middel(first black card).

Thats how I could do it.

Or maybe you could set it up to be like on some of the MR Sabers to where the card or whaterver slid with a sliding switch then I would somehow afix the first black card to the top of the sliding switch.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-11-2008, 10:19 AM
Oh, the black cards are actually the same card, just the top of the card in one pic, and the bottom of the card in the other pic. And I have considered drilling a hole just big enough for the "stick" on the switch to come through and use the card as part of the switch. I still am unsure of what to do with the switch for the clamp on BS#2....I do have some ideas, though.

Hasid Lafre
04-11-2008, 10:20 AM
OH ok, I see. When I looked at the first pic I seen a green card and 2 black ones.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-13-2008, 08:17 PM
I did a bit more work on the switch box for BS#3...or is this BS#2? Oh well, it's the other brass saber I've got in the works too:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0641.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0641.jpg)

I drilled a hole in the center of the box then used my rotary tool to carve the hole into more of a slot shape to accomodate the switch post:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0644.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0644.jpg)
From the bottom:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0643.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0643.jpg)

I then drilled and tapped two holes for the #4-40 mounting screws and mounted the switch:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0650.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0650.jpg)
From the top, you can see the ends of the screws, but they are just about at the right height that they won't interfere with the cicuit board after I apply that:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0651.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0651.jpg)

The next step is to mark the location on the brass sleeve for mounting to the hilt, and also to make a slot for the switch bottom to clear the hilt, so I lined up the box so it was opposite the CT knob, and taped it to the hilt. I set it up in the drill press:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0646.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0646.jpg)

And drilled three holes:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0649.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0649.jpg)

I'll use the side scrolling bit on my rotary tool to turn the three holes into a slot for the switch to sit in.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-15-2008, 12:40 AM
I finished cutting the slot yesterday afternoon:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0652.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0653.jpg
I had to work on the slot a bit more to get the switch box to line up properly, but it fits:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0654.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0655.jpg

Next, I taped the box to the hilt and drilled for the mounting screws for the box. I went all the wau through to the hilt, and through the hilt as well. I'll use two #8-32 flat heads to secure the box to the hilt:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0656.jpg
I used an 8-32 #29 bit to drill the holes first, and then I went back through the holes with my #10-32 drill bit, so the screws would not thread through the box, but only into the hilt. While I had it in the drill press, I also moved the hilt forward and drilled for the blade thumb screw:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0657.jpg
I had also previously drilled and tapped a hole for an 8-32 screw to hold the emitter shroud in place while I drilled for the thumbscrew.

In order to get the switch box mounting screws heads' to be flush with the box, I used my 3/8 drill bit to create a counter bore and counter sink. I don't have the correct tool for that, so I improvised. The screws fit like so:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0658.jpg

I test assembled everything, and shot a few pics:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0659.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0660.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0661.jpg
Everything lines up fairly well, with only the blade thumbscrew being a little off the vertical axis from the switch box, but it's not that noticeable, really.

The last piece to fabricate for this is the switch box circuit board:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0662.jpg

Novastar
04-15-2008, 02:26 AM
SIIIICK, Jay... keep that up! Not sure what else to say but... brass looks nice. I can't wait to see the added detail/paint work for later!

Jonitus
04-15-2008, 09:37 AM
You can't beat the look of brass. It's slick and a real pleasure to work with. Good job there, jay. Looking forward to seeing how they turn out.

Darth Anubis
04-15-2008, 03:01 PM
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet and Awesome and yeah its that great

P.S.
My older brother thinks that you should make a saber that looks like a trumpet:);)

Jay-gon Jinn
04-15-2008, 11:47 PM
Finished the circuit board for the switchbox:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0665.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0663.jpg

It turned out pretty good, I think. The switch is actually level with the card, so there won't be any problem with accidental shut-offs. You will need a thumb or finger nail to actuate the switch, though. This one is just about ready for wiring, so I think I'll use the electronics I've got wired up already in this hilt. The last thing I'll need to fabricate is the grille for the speaker pommel.

I'll use a sinkstrainer for this, just like the one I used for my daughter's pink bladed saber:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0670.jpg
I had to cut it down to size with a cut-off wheel on the rotary tool:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0672.jpg
With that out of the way, I started to assemble the hilt with the electronics:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0668.jpg
I had to cut off the stock MR switch, then lengthen the wires so they would reach back to the new switvch wires:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0671.jpg

I wired up the switch and everything works just fine. Here's how the pommel speaker grille turned out:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0673.jpg

More final pics to come, and maybe even a video, after a bit more cleaning and polishing!

TD-2272
04-17-2008, 03:42 PM
Thats sweet Jay!!!

Darth Anubis
04-17-2008, 04:06 PM
wait for it wait for it 3...2...1 AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Stinky Bantha
04-17-2008, 04:13 PM
These WIP threads are always inspiring! Great work, Jay. Question for you: how do you secure the Parks clamp? Just a couple screws inside the box part?

Jay-gon Jinn
04-17-2008, 07:11 PM
The Parks clamp hasn't been secured, yet, I've been working to finish the control box for the other saber first. I am planning on using a screw or two inside the box part of the clamp so the screws won't be visible. I am currently exploring ideas for the switch on that saber with the clamp.

Hasid Lafre
04-17-2008, 08:27 PM
Try an MR style where the "card" moves the switch.

I think that would be ingenious cause Ive never seen it done on anything but an mr saber.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-17-2008, 08:35 PM
I have thought about that, Hasid, but I have no way of getting the card to slide over the post on the switch without breaking either the switch or the card. Unforunately, the card isn't flexible, and the slot for the card is really too shallow in the box for that anyway...I can't get my finger in there to move the card.

Dark Helmet
04-17-2008, 09:35 PM
as far as mounting the parks clamp, what I did was drill/thread the rear section at the same time and fasten it with a long set screw that went through the clamp sink tube and mhs peice, then, i drilled/tapped the front portion of the clamp (just the clamp) and marked the spot where the set screw would sit. on that mark I drilled a "divet" for the screw to seat into... the rearword screw held it all in place and the forward kept it tight... no loose rattling parts there. I had to do this since the forward portion sat above the mhs threaded area so it would suck hard to ruin those.
with that said, that saber is f'ing cool, I love the mix of brass and alum.. and that switch is killer, Looks like the best pair I've seen since baywatch!

Jay-gon Jinn
04-18-2008, 07:51 AM
BS#3 is done!

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0676.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0677.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0678.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0679.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0680.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0681.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0682.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0684.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0685.jpg
I went ahead in installed the electronics package that I had previously wired for BS#2 in this saber instead:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0686.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0690.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0689.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0688.jpg
The saber is shown here with one of my "Dual-Core Diffusion" blades. It is a 1" thin-walled polycarbonate with a double wrap of Corbin Film and several feet of clear film inside that as well.

Tom Starkiller
04-18-2008, 08:12 AM
Awesome!! now to write more so that I can post.

xl97
04-18-2008, 08:16 AM
one of the nicest sabers Ive seen built... bar none.. lathe or not..

I love the use of more common items.. we collect and use alot fo the same ideas/stuff.

does the brass sleeve/cover just over another MHS entension piece? or did you use two MHS/SinkTube adaptors? (I dont think so..i dont see any screws or anything)

The green goes great I think.. however.. now that i see it done..

I think NOT having a control box/clamp on there woudl make it more clean/sleek looking.. and soem sort of other metal (smaller) 'somthing'..

but thats really just a personal preference..

I still think the pipe cutter used to make 'lines' was awesome..

I cant wait to post the Maveric saber/hilt pics.. :)

Jay-gon Jinn
04-18-2008, 10:16 AM
The brass sleeve covers an MHS 5" double threaded extension. It's too late to take the switch box off now, there are holes drilled/tapped into the hilt for mounting it. I'm not thrilled with the height of the box, but I do like the look....I think it would've looked too plain with a simple plastic push button switch on it. I do have 4 MHS sinktube adaptors sitting on the bench now....I plan making 4 more versions of my orginal brass saber using those.

xl97
04-18-2008, 10:35 AM
Yeah I knwo its too late now.. didnt really get the whole ffect untl it was complete..

I too think it being too high may be whats turning me off on it.. (not that its terriblke or anything.. just personal thoughts/comments of course)

I dont think a regular old, huge, ugly push button would worked either.. I was sorta thinking/seeing
another band/ring (brass or brushed aluminum color) than goes OVER the bras sleeve even.. maybe a 1/2 in. in length and using some sort of micro switch & mini LED set-up

Im working on somethign like this currently.. nt to sure how the tactile buttons needs to be mounted so they dont short..??

http://www.dmstudios.net/misc/controlBand.jpg

Jay-gon Jinn
04-20-2008, 08:43 AM
Now that brass saber #3 is pretty much completed, I need to finish this one:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0631.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0634.jpg

What's holding me up is the switch location. I need to come up with a decent switch, probably latching, so that I can use an MR board i this one, too. I'd like to leave it open to upgrading to another sound board though, so having somewhere to put another momentary switch would be beneficial. I know some other members have used this clamp or the other one from Parks/King of Parts, so suggestions are welcome!

Anyone have some ideas? I'd like to put the switches in the circuit board I have:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0630.jpg

Hasid Lafre
04-20-2008, 10:09 AM
Maybe find a tactile witch that will fit in the clamp/box when the card is in it like on its side.

DaJoQuim
04-20-2008, 04:04 PM
wow jay great job with your sabers!!

Jay-gon Jinn
04-23-2008, 11:34 AM
I shot a short video of BS3#:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmKaCBHCVlc

I did some more work to BS#2 today. I made the speaker grille. I started just like last time, by cutting it down with a cutting disc on a rotary tool:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0717.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0717.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0718.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0718.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0719.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0719.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0720.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0720.jpg)

After I cut the basic shape, I used the sanding drum attchment to smooth off the burrs and test fit it:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0721.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0721.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0722.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0722.jpg)
Wow, it dropped right in on the first try! I went ahead and shoved in the o-ring that'll hold the grille in place:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0723.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0723.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0725.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0725.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0735.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0735.jpg)

With that done, I returned to the clamp and switch issue. I decided to at least get the clamp mounted properly and set it up in the drill press to drill for the two mounting screws i'll be using:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0726.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0726.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0727.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0727.jpg)

I also cut down the other black circuit board I had to fit into the slot in the clamp:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0729.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0729.jpg)

I tried an Anakin MR switch in the end of the box....
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0730.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0730.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0732.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0732.jpg)

I didn't like that, and didn't see a way to insulate the switch from the body of the saber anyway. After sanding the circuit board down some more, so it fit right up in the top of the clamp, I changed the screws to the socket head cap screws, and now the cicuit rests on top of those after adding some washers to the screws:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0733.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0733.jpg)

I think this is the setup I'll go with for this one. I just need to get another slide switch from RS to use with it. I'll be sure to leave it so it can be swapped out for a momentary micro switch, too. There should also be room to add a second one as well, or that could be added later in the bottom side of the ribbed extension, and be accessed through the sleeve.

Shadow
04-23-2008, 05:08 PM
I've always liked the idea of using brass on sabers, and seeing yours has made me want it even more.

Great work.

Jay-gon Jinn
04-25-2008, 10:39 AM
Well, I decided not to put an MR board in BS#2, because I really didn't want to take apart my custom LuxSaber again, so it got the Ultrasound that isn't quite working installed instead. to do that, all I had to do was drill a hole in the black circuit board for the button of the Hasbro momentary switch I used to use in my Custom saber to stick through:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0741.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0741.jpg)

I also drilled ahole in the clamp, all the way through to the inside for the boards' switch wires to come through:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0742.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0742.jpg)

Isoldered p the switch, hot glued it to the back of the cicuit board, and it was a perfect fit in the clamp:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0743.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/000_0743.jpg)

I didn't get any pictures of the installation of the rest of the electronics, it went pretty quick. oh, well. I'll consider this one done:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2029.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2029.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2032.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2032.jpg)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2030.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2030.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2033.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2033.jpg)

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2031.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2031.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2034.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2034.jpg)

Being that this has a lot of brass, I decided it should also be green. I actually had ordered acouple of Lux III cyans to use in these, but they turned out to be bin 6's, so they look green instead of teal or blue/green. Oh, well. The green k2 lights up a blade just fine:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2036.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2036.jpg)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2037.jpg (http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/100_2037.jpg)
This particular blade is borrowed from one of my PVC "Light Knight" sabers, so it's a bit short for this at around 30", but it looks pretty good. I just wanted to see it with a blade on it.

I have a video on youtube of this one, too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kb7HnK-MLcE
You can see in the video that the soundboard isn't functioning prperly. There's no clash or motion sounds at all, which is wierd, because they were working fine until I put the board in the saber.

EDIT:

Here's the other video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfaJGIiPdVA

Jay-gon Jinn
05-07-2008, 05:03 PM
Well, I finally got around to the finishing touch on BS#2:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/Brass%20Sabers%204%205%206%20and%207/000_0760.jpg
I drilled for the 1/4-20 stainless steel set screw I took out of one of my other sabers that now uses a thumbscrew. It should continue the smooth appearance on this saber. I then tapped the hole and installed the blade and the set screw:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/Brass%20Sabers%204%205%206%20and%207/000_0762.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/Brass%20Sabers%204%205%206%20and%207/000_0763.jpg

My postal carrier also delivered a package, and these were in it:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/Brass%20Sabers%204%205%206%20and%207/100_2054.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/Brass%20Sabers%204%205%206%20and%207/100_2057.jpg
Could that be brass Sabers 4, 5, 6, 7, and chrome saber #4??? ;) ;D

Yup! The 12" tubes will probably be cut down to about 6 or 7 inches, I got those because I just wanted to see what they were like. These will likely use ribbed extensions or v-grooved extensions and MHS blade holders to finish then off. I haven't decided which style blade holders I'll use, either. I have battery packs and switches on order, but still need to order optics and/or leds. I'm out of soundboards, too.

xl97
05-07-2008, 11:12 PM
well "I'm" excited to see what you turn out.. :)

are those the $30 a pop decorative brass sink tube? or you score them somewhere else? (cheaper?)

Jay-gon Jinn
05-09-2008, 06:28 AM
Those tubes shown there range from $22 to $25, but after you factor in shipping, then they come close to $30. That's why I do three or four at once, it spreads the shipping cost around, so it isn't as much per tube that way.

xl97
05-09-2008, 06:47 AM
are these REAL brass? or just plated over something else?

Usually the chrome plating is OVER a breass tube anyways.. so Im thinking these ARE 100% brass all the way through??

I know there were nickel, copper..etc..etc colors.. are those just plated do you know?


Thanks

Jay-gon Jinn
05-09-2008, 11:30 AM
These are 100% SOLID BRASS...just like the ones I used for the other three that I've built. I didn't have to sand them down, or polish them up...they were already polished.

Work on the sabers using these last tubes I got can be seen here:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4783

Darth Leximus
05-09-2008, 11:59 AM
those are the same ones that you said don't fit over the MHS parts unless Tim machines them down a little right?

xl97
05-09-2008, 12:12 PM
or you can sand/hone out the inside of the tube some.. if you are ordering parts FOR it.. maybe be a better option to get it turned down a little more (OD wise) for the MHS part..

JGJ-

thanks.. I just wanted to be sure.. I thought htey were..

have you worked in any the other 'colors' and know if they are 100% SOLID or just plated like the chrome versions?

Darth Leximus
05-09-2008, 12:22 PM
Thanks I was just wondering, i've done some searching for the right guage solid brass and I'm fairly certain it doesn't exist. I wanted it to go on a saber I already have so maybe I'll try honing the inside if I get my hands on one.
Thanks again.

Jay-gon Jinn
05-09-2008, 12:25 PM
So far, all I've used are the polished brass ones. The other colors the store had are a little too pricey for me to cut up and build a saber out of.

I also just got a couple of new tools for using on these:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/000_0764.jpg
So, hopefully, I'll just be able to order standard MHS parts in the future if I build any more brass sabers with these tubes. The brake cylinder hone on the left says it'll go as large as 2 1/2" dia. and the flex hone is 1.5". The other two to the right are the ones I use in the blade holders...a 1" and a 3/4".

Jay-gon Jinn
05-09-2008, 12:29 PM
Thanks I was just wondering, i've done some searching for the right guage solid brass and I'm fairly certain it doesn't exist. I wanted it to go on a saber I already have so maybe I'll try honing the inside if I get my hands on one.
Thanks again.

I have found some 5" threaded un-polished, un-chromed brass tubes at my local Do-It hardware store. They polish up nicely with a little Brasso polish, and fit right over the MHS without any trouble.

The only problem I can see with honing out these brass tubes, may be the amount of meterial that must be removed. The MHS parts are 1.45" dia. and the insides of the tubes are 1.44". To get a good fit, you'd have to remove .02" from the tube's i.d. That might take awile with a hone. I'll try it out on the next batch of sabers I do.

Darth Leximus
05-09-2008, 12:51 PM
Ahhh I see said the blind man. If you give honing a shot I would love to see the results and I've got some DoIt stores around here I'll check them out. Thanks

xl97
05-09-2008, 01:11 PM
HI.. Ive already tried it... :)

I got some un polished, solid brass tube (had a little spout/tube angled out of the side at the top)... the THICK kind as you mention..

I hope your FLEX hone tools are better than the brake cylinder one.. that one is really just for 'smoothing out the finished product IMHO..

also I guess it depends on the grit you got. I didnt like thatthe sanding stones/feet are NOT replaceable but the whole things was only around 3+ bucks.. so I picked up a couple.

I however went your first router JGJ when you first posted it... I actually took my chrome sink tube and put on my drill press and spun it around.. and sanded it dome 120, 240 then 400-600 finish to get a polished sanding...

thats how I got all my brass sleeves/covers I own.. (this was before you posted the solid brass sabers you came out with)..

however I had to hone the inside of these as well.. on some of my projects.. I used the brake hone worked ok..and took a while.. I couldnt image doing a SOLID brass one out to the required size (OD)... (and I tried.. for hours.. and ground one down to the metal feet).. this was by hand drill & vise though.. if you could put it in your drill press and center the tube right and walk away... maybe that would work better?

I found using my drill (hand and press) with a long wooden dowell cut to whatever lenth I need worked best for my needs..

I put a steel spacer and screwed it in the end to make a 'rod/shaft/spindle' with some duct tape reviersed (sticky out) I wrap some emmery cloth (pick your grit) around it and slide the tube around it.. and start sanding honeing the insides..

a little manual, but doesnt hurt any.. :)

Darth Leximus
05-09-2008, 01:20 PM
I salute you Macguiverness. I prefer when things are a little ghetto rigged, that's how I do things most of the time. Thanks for the tip

Jay-gon Jinn
05-09-2008, 05:16 PM
The stones on the brake cylinder hone I bought are replaceable, and available in different grits, medium (240) and fine (400). If it doesn't work for this, I'm sure I'll have a use for it someday.

xl97
05-09-2008, 08:14 PM
ahh.. then you are luckier than I.. I got mine at Harborfreight.com and they were a few bucks.. the stones NOT replaceable.. loved that it basiaclly auto expands for you though on the spring..

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
05-09-2008, 10:18 PM
For my brass saber, I got a 12" piece of brass sink tube at Home Depot. It slid right over the MHS, just like the chrome ones Tim sells. The outside polished up very easily, and I really didn't have to do much to it at all.

I didn't have the same luck finding 1 1/4" brass tube for my current project. I'll have to sand a chrome one.

BTW, if anyone out there is sanding chrome off a tube, be sure to use a dust mask, goggles, and gloves, and do it outside. I've read that chrome dust is carcinogenic. As long as you use proper safety gear, you'll be fine.

xl97
05-09-2008, 10:26 PM
Your last part is VERY good advice.. and I should have said it myself.. the chorme gets VERY dusty IMHO...


also Obi-Dar

at mny Local Home Depot.. I have seen the same brass polished sink tube.. never in a 1.5 though.. "I" have the 1.25 here by me.. LOL (so were reveresed)

and if I rememer it was only a 6 in with nut on end.. If you need one though.. I can send one up.. Im in Wisconsin.. shouldnt be toooo bad... my buddies go up to Canuk land to fish all the time.. :)

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
05-09-2008, 10:34 PM
If the nut is brass too, that's exactly what I'm looking for.

Maybe we can do a trade.

xl97
05-09-2008, 10:50 PM
I wish I could google a pic for you to make sure..

but its POLISHED>. 6 in I believe..

brass nut as well.. (have to make sure though)..


it was at LOWES (I have a Lowes & Home Depot right next to each by me.. and a Menards across the street..go figure) :)

it has the 'bulge/bump' at bottom for the nut to screw on.. slip joint?

If they had a 12 incher.. I would have scooped one up..

also

JGJ and Obi-Dar-

Ive been eying up this place:

http://www.buyrailings.com/pd-productid-1009-k-1_1_2_outside_diameter_tubing,_0050_thick.htm

sell in it longer/larger lengths not to bad for a 4ft-6ft and I think you could save some JGJ on yoru brass purchases..not sure about shipping though.. sorry.

ALSO.. I have COPPER tube/pipe that fits over a 1.25 sink tube as well..in case you need any for rings/spacers/whatever.. not as SNUG as a sinktube over a MHSpart...but works well with very thin/small OD o-rings or some set screws..something to shim slightly..

Jay-gon Jinn
05-10-2008, 06:42 AM
Yeah, the tubing is cheaper, but I didn't check on shipping for it....I'll add that link to my fav's and check it out further. That'll work if I just want a brass sleeve...these other plumbing tubes with the nut, can actually serve as a pommel for the saber as well, and have a nice resonance to them for sound. The shipping on those 4 tubes I bought last time was 14.37, which wasn't too bad...and I got them in two days!

xl97
05-10-2008, 09:17 AM
cant be that (2 days) and the shipping actually isnt that bad...

as far as the new place... no clue.. was just sharing.

I 'DO" howver have a real close buddy who owns/runs a start company (wood/mill shop)

and I knwo they sometimes have metal laying around from ballisters & railing.. I never even thought to see if they have any cast offs or left over stock around..

xl97
05-15-2008, 12:30 PM
nice clean/thin cuts.. and looks great.

in this image:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Brass%20Sabers%202%20and%203/Brass%20Sabers%204%205%206%20and%207/000_0833.jpg

what are you using around he button heads? like a thin domed brass washer? really adds. no doubt.

Ive using a pipe cutter to make 'rings/grooves' Im curious as to how 'tight/deep' you go?

in the same saber mentioned above.. I see the rings above & below the ribbed section look alomost deep enough to be seperate rings/sections.. where as the ones below by the grip/pommel area are lighter (not as deep looking), are you just doing diffenent clamp tightness in those areas?

also.. man, you need to geta 'signature' button style or small foot print control box/clamp set up .. those bulky, big black buttons arent doing your work any justice.. :(

over-all, always very visually appeasing hilts. :)

Darth Anubis
05-15-2008, 05:10 PM
by good I do love you brass sabers I just love them you should make on with a thin neck extension that would be so cool

xl97
05-15-2008, 05:35 PM
hey JGJ-

I just wanted to doubel check with you.. these latest polished BRASS plumbing tubes.. are the ones that either need to be HONED out or have the MHS parts turned down to a smaller O.D.... correct? are are these 'regular' I.D. sink tube diameter?

from here:

http://www.signaturehardware.com/class307


I see these are way more:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Sink-Drain-Extension-Tube-Tailpiece_W0QQitemZ170217610490QQihZ007QQcategoryZ 42134QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


(and if you need a colored grill:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Black-Shower-Tile-Grid-Drain-Strainer-Trim-Kit-Plate_W0QQitemZ360043749108QQihZ023QQcategoryZ1218 50QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

Thanks

Jay-gon Jinn
05-15-2008, 06:25 PM
Yup, xl, those are the tubes from "signiture Hardware that either need to be honed or the MHS pieces turned to a smaller o.d. to fit.

As far as the buttons go, I know they aren't anything fancy, but as I don't intend on keeping these, I want to keep the costs down. The first brass saber I did, in the one pic there, has a metal push button switch that looks better than the black ones, but it costs $6 at my local hardware store. I'd love to have some kind of switch plate to use on these things, but nobody makes them except Parks, and I didn't really like the wait time to order from him.

Darth Anubis
05-15-2008, 06:29 PM
by good I do love you brass sabers I just love them you should make on with a thin neck extension that would be so cool

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh320/jinzo_bucket/brass2.jpg
like this

Jay-gon Jinn
05-15-2008, 06:51 PM
Maybe some day Anubis....using it on that style saber kind of defeats the purpose of the choke point...I think it'd work better on one like BS#1, 4, & 5.

EDIT:
BTW, the angle on that cut is only 45deg. The others I did at 30deg.

jedi killer
05-15-2008, 08:49 PM
where did you get that clamp? it's sick!

Jay-gon Jinn
05-16-2008, 11:28 AM
Stupid me, I posted those last pics in the wrong thread! D'oh!

They belonged here:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4783&page=2

DJMoonbass
02-26-2009, 06:58 PM
wow that is amazing. SEe since im machining my lightsaber from scratch the brass tube shouldnt be a problem. ill just micro the inner diameter of the tube and base my outer diameter of the hilt on that +/- what say .002"??? i cant be terribly accurate. i mean its boring bar! that should workhttp://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp286/DJMoonbass/P1040377-1.jpg

DJMoonbass
02-26-2009, 07:01 PM
sweet found the sight. thanks master JAY GON. i cant wait....