Using Corbin board and MR board in same circuit

[Silverwing]

Im sure this has already been talked about but here goes. here's a simple diagram for hooking up Corbin's board and a MR board in the same circuit. I realize now that theres a switch input/output right on the board, but if I just bridged those with hook up wire and used the switch where it is on the diagram, when the saber is off there would be no battery drain. Am I correct in saying that?

If you see any problems/concerns please let me know.

Also, since I dont HAVE my Corbin board yet, let me ask. Is it possible to hook up a clash sensor AND the Momentary push button? On that note, I need to figure out a way to hook up both boards to that clash sensor, assuming I install one.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g151/silverwing259/SaberConfig1.jpg

[Lord Maul]

Hasid posted up all of the Corbin and MR board wiring diagrams. I don't have the link, unfortunately. I'll check real quick.

EDIT: Found the link. Took me under thirty seconds. LOL

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4091&highlight=corbin

[Silverwing]

Okay, thanks alot maul, but I would like to hear your comment on the idea of bridging the switch connectors to have the switch BEFORE all the boards on the circuit. The way I have things set up is to drive a LuxV and still have MR quality sound since the CF is so elusive right now.

[Ghostbat]

Okay, thanks alot maul, but I would like to hear your comment on the idea of bridging the switch connectors to have the switch BEFORE all the boards on the circuit. The way I have things set up is to drive a LuxV and still have MR quality sound since the CF is so elusive right now.

It will work, but this is the cause of the infamous "no power down" scenario.

Since you are just cutting power to the board rather than telling it to turn itself off it will just stop abruptly rather than give the power off effect.

Basically it's the same as if you just yanked the batteries out.

[Silverwing]

....ah.

lol duh I didnt think of that haha

thanks so much, bat

[Silverwing]

okay guys now I need some help on batteries. If Im running the Corbin board (latching) and the MR board together with a Green LuxV what type of battery pack should I use? Ive already pretty much taken it as a given that I should have the recharge port with kill switch since I have two boards eating current while idle.

[DarthFender]

use the 7.2 battery pack. Also you will need to regulate the voltage to the MR Board. 7.2 will let out the magic smoke on those boards. THey tend not to work so great after that.

[Silverwing]

Okay 7.2... is that the lithium or the NiMH? I think Ive read that the 2600mAh NiMH pack lasts longer

[Hasid Lafre]

Dosent matter, I would use li-ions cause there smaller, but theres a diagram in teh wiring forums about how to wire in a regulator.

[Silverwing]

Okay! My parts from Tim have arrived. I just finished stripping down my Luke ROTJ, and Im ready to start planning out everything. Im still waiting on my blade, a Li-ion 800mAh pack and charger, and my covertec system. Here's a pic of the design.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g151/silverwing259/MHSHilt.jpg

here's a list of the parts im planning to use:

Above MHS hilt
Green LuxV
Corbin Driver (use no resistor!)
DPDT submini slide switch (I picked up from Radio Shack)
SPST pushbutton momentary switch (for C&L, also Radio Shack)
Luke ROTJ stripped MR FX Board
Stock MR speaker
Stock MR Motion/Impact sensor
Li-ion Batt pack 800mAh (will have to be upgraded later for longer runtime)
Recharge input jack wired for kill switch
Corbin Style Battle Blade

I'm going to try and follow the online diagram for this setup.

Please if you have any comments/concerns please tell me!

Other then that, now Im moving on to housing