Joe Jedi (lightsaber construction Kit) Multi color Modification [Archive]

grayven

03-17-2008, 11:10 AM

I thought I would post this here if anyone is interested. This is a 10 part Vid tutorial on how I made my multi-color Joe Jedi. I get like 10 different colors using both Jedi and sith sounds.

her they are:
Multi-color in use
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8IwLC3mweI

tutorial
part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV_9bTS0zlk

part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbQq5jjSU3k

part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aidZAplWiFE

part 3.2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlSkzR-UF9k

part 4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXpcU4h8V-M

part 5
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLrkquztDH8

part 6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vX5gc3eCaVY

part 7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2b8ODz5NGs

part 8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hCnceTKlpw

part 9
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u22DENmOE5s

Thanks for looking
Grayven

Malaki Skywalker

03-19-2008, 01:40 PM

This is a GREAT Mod, if i can get a Joe Jedi kit I'm trying this! :-D

Blazemann

03-31-2008, 06:40 PM

HOLY ****!!!

Sorry... Really excited... I just turned my MR FX LCS into an incredible US LCS!!! Removeable blade! Thankyou for number one, thank you! I can now exchange my old short blade for a normal sized one! And soon, when I get the switches, I will do what you did!

Also, just something I would just like to add, the inside parts on mine, was a lot better glued than yours, so I almost turned back...

Just a warning for ya'll bout' to try tis', it may take a little prying to get peices apart.

Blazemann

03-31-2008, 08:22 PM

Oopss... Shoot, I need help. When I slided out the inner part of the core hilt, I forgot to press in the button, and its innerds are in a scramble. Can you please open your saber, and open the white power button so I can tell where to put the tiny peices to make it fit/work again? Please do it, and hurry.

DarthFender

03-31-2008, 08:31 PM

Sorry Blazemann,

That switch was not designed to come apart. I think you might have just borked it. Man that sux. I did the same thing on a Joe Jedi I was planning on taking the board out of for another saber. The good news for me was that I was planning on using a DPDT switch anyways. But, yeah. I think you might be SOL.

grayven

03-31-2008, 08:37 PM

Oops!

Yeah I did that the first time too. I'll try and get some piece of that this week. It was a pain in the butt but it goes back together. If you take a close look at the switch you can see how it works. The white activator only goes in one way and the metal pieces just kinda fit in place. Remember down is on while looking at the pieces. And don't lose the spring.

I have also modified the bottom hilt pieces to be the same length of the upper pieces. I used the pieces from the kit I bought just for the soundboard.
And this is what I got now

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/robodragonsdf1/StarWars/100_1356.jpg

GRAYVEN

DarthFender

03-31-2008, 08:45 PM

Grayven,

Awesome, that it goes back together, I didn't look at it too closely as I was needing to disable it anyway.

Blazemann, let us know how that turns out for ya.

TorLinWaDur

03-31-2008, 09:20 PM

Wow. niffy stuff. :)

Blazemann

04-01-2008, 03:29 AM

Yes, this is very good news! Can't wait for pics!

Blazemann

04-01-2008, 02:00 PM

Oops!

Yeah I did that the first time too. I'll try and get some piece of that this week. It was a pain in the butt but it goes back together. If you take a close look at the switch you can see how it works. The white activator only goes in one way and the metal pieces just kinda fit in place. Remember down is on while looking at the pieces. And don't lose the spring.

I have also modified the bottom hilt pieces to be the same length of the upper pieces. I used the pieces from the kit I bought just for the soundboard.
And this is what I got now

GRAYVEN

How many metal peices are there supposed to be on the underside of the whit button?

grayven

04-01-2008, 04:53 PM

From what I remember, Two.

Blazemann

04-01-2008, 05:16 PM

And, what sides were they on? The same side, or opposite.

grayven

04-01-2008, 07:17 PM

See if this helps?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wcp-k-P5jY

Blazemann

04-02-2008, 01:46 PM

It helps a little, but can you make a detailed picture of where the metal peices go? I know they have the notch, like the sides of the button, but they cover where the spring is supposed to go.

GFORCE13

04-03-2008, 11:06 PM

Thx Graven for posting this, I know the time has come and RS is putting them in clearance and I was just going to buy one for parts but man you have given me some awesome other Idea's for this.

Blazemann

04-07-2008, 02:27 PM

grayven

04-07-2008, 05:25 PM

Again, can anyone please give more detail as to how they prongs on the white button are supposed to be placed? Do they point outwards? Please give me an explanation of that so I can fix my saber. A detailed picture, or a pic made with paint would help. Please... I am desperate...

If you look at the white plunger, there are two side that are solid and two that are open. The metal switch strips are in the shape of a V. One each of the V shaped pieces gon on either side of the switch (on the solid sides). make sure the V is right side up. It should look like a V attached to the plunger.
Hope that helps. It really hard to get a good pic because it's so small, my camera won't focus. sorry.

Grayven

Blazemann

04-07-2008, 06:18 PM

http://img365.imageshack.us/img365/3343/saberfixingquestiondy3.jpg
Is it A, B, or C? Red is the metal

grayven

04-07-2008, 06:27 PM

A is correct.

Blazemann

04-07-2008, 06:28 PM

thankyou! Now to finaly fixing it!

Blazemann

04-07-2008, 07:07 PM

Great! After finaly understanding it, it is now fully operational! Thanks, Grayven!

grayven

04-07-2008, 07:30 PM

You are welcome. Sorry for the long delay to respond.

Grayven

Blazemann

04-08-2008, 04:52 PM

Now... Onto the actual modding...

Question's Number One:
Does the R-B-G switch even do anything any more? And if yes, does it have to be turned to a certain color if, on the slider, you change the sounds?

Question's Number Two:
On which wire is the Resistor Placed? Is it the Red to LED? And if so, would it work if put on the common for the LED?

Question's Number Three:
Is the resistor 3.0K Ohms or 3.0 Ohms? And also what voltage.

I know I have been almost interrogating you, but you did great here, and I do not want to accidently screw up on the $75 that I rarely have free.

grayven

04-08-2008, 06:14 PM

It's all good, I don't mind helping it just may take some time, sometimes.

Question's Number One:
Does the R-B-G switch even do anything any more? And if yes, does it have to be turned to a certain color if, on the slider, you change the sounds?

Yes the main switch does two things. First it changes the sound from sith to jedi. Second it switches where the power comes from for the LED. The only two position that will work is teh R and B.
The second switch that will be added is to switch the power from the Red or Blue lead comming from the factory LED conector output to the dipswitch.

Question's Number Two:
On which wire is the Resistor Placed? Is it the Red to LED? And if so, would it work if put on the common for the LED?

The resister need to be on the LED red lead from the Dipswitch. You only want to resist the Red LED.

Question's Number Three:
Is the resistor 3.0K Ohms or 3.0 Ohms? And also what voltage.

It is a 3 ohm 2 wat resister.

grayven

Dark Navel

04-09-2008, 11:24 PM

Has anyone tried this with a TCSS blade?? Bought a kit but wondering if it will work with a 34 to 36" thin walled blade. I think that polyprop rolled inside should help with the eveness of the light but how bright is it? Is it brighter when you have it switched so at least 2 of the leds are lit?? I know it's no LUX III but is it worth tring to get a blade if it's going to be really dim..??:confused:

I really want to modify mine and put it into something..Custom made hilt,TCSS hilt etc.

Dark Navel

04-13-2008, 08:26 PM

Well I did this myself...Just so everone knows ther's not much difference between the stock 616 blade and a 36" thinwalled blade from TCSS. My blade has dual corbin film and 6 feet of cellophane and there really wasn't a great difference although it's better than the short blade that comes with the sw-616 kit.

It may be a bit brighter if you do the conversion since multiple colors would be lit at the same time.

grayven

06-02-2008, 09:57 PM

I have an update. I have been working with some new rotary switches for this conversion and have a winner. It's a 8 position 3 pole rotary switch. Also there is a stock made hole just on the underside of the plastic core (opposite of the RGB and on/off push button) where the rotary switch fits perfectly. This same hole can be used as a template to drill the hole in the aluminum core so the switch is accessible from under the cosmetic pieces. I really like this setup. This ones for you Novastar.
Here are the pics.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/robodragonsdf1/StarWars/100_1538.jpghttp://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/robodragonsdf1/StarWars/100_1538.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/robodragonsdf1/StarWars/100_1539.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/robodragonsdf1/StarWars/100_1537.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/robodragonsdf1/StarWars/100_1540.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/robodragonsdf1/StarWars/100_1541.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c156/robodragonsdf1/StarWars/100_1542.jpg

Grayven

Novastar

06-03-2008, 02:08 AM

You rock brutha Grayven... Robodragon is unstoppable it seems--the bloody RGB FORCE is with him!! :)

That is awesome to hear about the rotaries... I did indeed get your messages about those, so they definitely sounded promising. And now that I see these photos, I'm glad it worked out with sizing and certain stock-manufactured holes.

I say this (along with your first set of tutorials) is going to a great one for the saber history books!

Now we just have to hope that the bloody MRFX "Joe Jedi" sabers don't get totally re-done or phased out thanks to this whole "Hasbro taking over the LFL license" thing.

Great job, and my thanks to you!!! Don't forget, yer gettin' a free CD for this, hehehe.

xl97

06-03-2008, 08:53 AM

as far as I understood it.. the 'Joe Jedi's' are already phased out.

Radio Shack has them listed as 'In Store Only' purchases....

and even though the factory lists having 3500k+ in stock.. they can not be ordered or shipped not even as gift items..(drop shipped from factory)

You rock brutha Grayven... Robodragon is unstoppable it seems--the bloody RGB FORCE is with him!! :)

That is awesome to hear about the rotaries... I did indeed get your messages about those, so they definitely sounded promising. And now that I see these photos, I'm glad it worked out with sizing and certain stock-manufactured holes.

I say this (along with your first set of tutorials) is going to a great one for the saber history books!

Now we just have to hope that the bloody MRFX "Joe Jedi" sabers don't get totally re-done or phased out thanks to this whole "Hasbro taking over the LFL license" thing.

Great job, and my thanks to you!!! Don't forget, yer gettin' a free CD for this, hehehe.

fawnheart2000

06-03-2008, 10:49 AM

Where did you get the rotary switch from?

grayven

06-03-2008, 08:53 PM

www.alliedelec.com I will find the part numver later and post it.

Grayven

Novastar

06-04-2008, 01:24 AM

xl97

06-04-2008, 05:58 AM

hey NS-

from what I gathered.. most of those numbers (or so Ive been told) are broken & returned sabers...

as for the other inventory no clue.. several Radio Shacks promised the world.. but when I show up to actually order.. the computer never seems to actually allocate the number of items for the purchase to the order... (if anyone tries.. tell them to try it as a gift purchase)

so they were also reduced to only $35 bucks.. worth that lone if you dont have a decent sound card.. and the switch boxes are a killer find.

CorellianBada**

06-07-2008, 09:28 PM

just curious.....

has anyone tried any exterior modifications to the slide-on pieces, e.g. to get rid of the plastic parts? would love to be able to get this baby to full-metal with a lower profile. atm it kinda feels like a huge flashlight.

DarthFender

06-11-2008, 03:11 PM

Corellian,

If you take all the stuff off, you can slip a 1.5" sink tube over it. then you'll have an all metal hilt. You can decorate it s you like.

BedlamX

07-14-2008, 05:38 PM

The 1.5" sink tube works great with some vinyl wrapped around the bare hilt. I'm working on a couple for my wife's Sith witch thing with the tube cut out to show the black and red vinyl beneath. As silly as it sounds, I glued a 6mm airsoft BB to the trigger switch and just wrapped the vinyl over it. Makes a slight bump that you can easily hit to turn it on without using those HUGE switch pieces the set came with. I'll post up some pics as soon as I get both of them done to my satisfaction.

One question on the build a saber kits. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the sound board? I'm using one in my new saber (as soon as the parts get here from TCSS...placed my order today for some MHS parts and such to build my first custom :) ) and was wondering what the best way to wire it would be. I figured I could just hook it up and ignore everything except the sound and effects parts, but if there is a better way, I'm all ears.

Lord Dottore Matto

07-14-2008, 10:16 PM

BedlamX

07-15-2008, 05:16 AM

Thanks for the link (and thanks to Arm for the diagram). I looked all over for one (on this site and other places), but just couldn't find it. Never thought to look in a thread about a custom saber :P.

This should help a lot.

GFORCE13

07-31-2008, 11:30 PM

Hello There and Thx Graven for all the explinations, I finally found the time to get back to this project, I really like the Rotary Switch Design and offically they don't even list these Sabers on the Radio Shack Page anymore, before you could still seach which store had them.

Novastar

08-01-2008, 12:26 AM

Hey there GForce, long time no hear... :)

I just received some of these RGB 616s today, so I'll see what they look like and feel like in person... I'm not expecting much, hahahah! Not from the hilt parts, and certainly not when the 900ma is being split three ways!

But... my aim is to maybe boost the current a tad and throw a single color at the thing, trying to shoot for 1000ma or 1200ma with... you know, whatever LED is "happy" with that kind of current. I've no need for a color-changer when it will simply be dim!

Also... probably some fix-ups or sink tube "protection" if need be!!!

Finally, to replace the blades with thin-walled, mirror-tipped, "ultra/gelu"-style film and see how we look from there!

All this, thanks to GRAYVEN, who has courageously taken on the arduous and insane task of helping me get this done for seven or so of these things!!! Wish us luck... as Han would say: "Yer gonna need it!"

xwingband

08-01-2008, 04:36 AM

Nova, they won't be 900mA... it uses a a resistor to give around 350-500mA that the Prolight uses. It's not split either. It's one or the other until you do any mods. Actually grayven's mods have that 500A or less split!

I don't have any more to screw with, but a simple resistor swap may be fine. Or given how you like li-ion a single one there and remove the resistor. Lots of options...

Novastar

08-13-2008, 07:37 PM

Right, the idea is to get it to output 1A. True, some modifications will be needed... :)

For that, I was referring to what we're going to do with some 616 sabers that have not yet been touched--not so much what he already has.

GFORCE13

08-20-2008, 10:27 PM

Hey there GForce, long time no hear...
Hello Novastar yep it has been a while but I am finally back again, I have to stop these outer rim excursions. It sounds like you are making progress on this build, I bought two of them and I am cutting up a 3' White Powder Coated Saftey Rail to build my Imperial Double Saber using the Vader Emitters and Probably the Vader Control Boxes.

And now a quick question for Master Grayven, I understand the basic wiring, I was originally planning on using a bunch of Corbin Style Micro Switches in the Control Box, but I really love the Rotary Setup, now I realize it replaces the Dip SW but do you still need the extra slider switch? If and when you have a chance could you post a basic wiring diagram for this setup? I really want the MultiColor Capability,what I would really like to do is upgrade the Led a RBG Rebel, but I suspect it would fry the Circut.

The Blade Problem, I have experimented with using my ThWalled GeluKahn Blade and it was a bit more even, I even tried installing a mirror in the stock Mr Blade, didn't help much so I tried a 5Degree Lens also not much improvement. I think the real problem is they are using a Single Element Led Lens on a Tri Lux Led and except for Corbins Custom made Tri-Lens I still don't know where to get one.

GFORCE13

08-20-2008, 10:28 PM

Hey there GForce, long time no hear...

Hello Novastar yep it has been a while but I am finally back again, I have to stop these outer rim excursions. It sounds like you are making progress on this build, I bought two of them and I am cutting up a 3' White Powder Coated Saftey Rail to build my Imperial Double Saber using the Vader Emitters and Probably the Vader Control Boxes.

And now a quick question for Master Grayven, I understand the basic wiring, I was originally planning on using a bunch of Corbin Style Micro Switches in the Control Box, but I really love the Rotary Setup, now I realize it replaces the Dip SW but do you still need the extra slider switch? If and when you have a chance could you post a basic wiring diagram for this setup? I really want the MultiColor Capability,what I would really like to do is upgrade the Led a RBG Rebel, but I suspect it would fry the Circut.

The Blade Problem, I have experimented with using my ThWalled GeluKahn Blade and it was a bit more even, I even tried installing a mirror in the stock Mr Blade, didn't help much so I tried a 5Degree Lens also not much improvement. I think the real problem is they are using a Single Element Led Lens on a Tri Lux Led and except for Corbins Custom made Tri-Lens I still don't know where to get one.

grayven

08-21-2008, 10:20 AM

I an away on training the rest of this week, but when I get back I will do what I can depending on family matters. I'm sure they don't remember me by now.

Grayven

FenderBender

09-14-2008, 10:05 PM

Has anyone figured out how to get this board to 900ma-1a yet? I want to run a single color led from it without a puck so I can get the extend/retract effect.

GFORCE13

09-14-2008, 11:28 PM

Nope haven't gotten any further on this either!!!

FenderBender

09-23-2008, 01:16 PM

Ok I took one of my 616's apart today and was putting it on the meter. I got 500ma from the green, 400ma from the red and 320ma from the blue. If the total output of this board is 500ma and its split differently to each lead, what resistor would get put in to insure that the red and green (since they put out the most) would get at least 1a? When I looked up the resistor it was a 2.9ohm but dont have any idea on the wattage anyone? Either way, the resistor looks damn easy to change out, should I just put the same resistor that you get with the Lux III's in its place?

Edit: looks like theres 540ma coming off one side of the resistor and 460ma coming from the otherside. Am I not reading this right? Where would I put the probe to test current before it gets to the resistor?

MoonDragn

09-24-2008, 10:28 AM

To test current your meter has to go between the junction and the resistor. That means unsoldering the resistor and using your meter between the feed and the resistor. Measuring across the resistor does not give you a accurate reading of the amperage.

You can however measure the voltage before and after the resistor and do a rough amperage calculation.

The formula is V = I R, where V is voltage, I is current, and R is resistance.

kinchar bamin

10-10-2008, 02:18 PM

are those parts plastic?

valeon

10-12-2008, 04:08 PM

My first joe jedi turned out fine....but for some reason the second one seems to have less color combinations than the last one....stumped am I.

Mewgen

10-15-2008, 01:39 PM

Old Batteries?

Dirty lenses?

Also, what happened to mine was the actually led was dirty. Once I used alcohol to clean it up, it was just as bright as my brand new one.

valeon

10-15-2008, 02:45 PM

It's not really a brightness problem, its the amount of color combos I can make. I got a ton of choices before, and I can't even get orange this time.

Novastar

10-15-2008, 04:26 PM

Valeon... it's likely that the RGB LED used differs from the other saber enough where you'll have to bias some of the colors with resistors in a way that achieves the colors you want.

If that is a bit complex... I'm simply saying that (for example) red is over-powering green when you have them both lit and so you may not get the nice purple you hope for.

What you'd have to do is throw in a rotary switch and try different resistors for each turn of the rotary in order to achieve the desired mixture. And yeah, it's probably best to look for that color on a full to mostly full cell charge.

Color mixtures WILL start to get weird when the cells begin to lose power... my guess would be red will continue to get more bias, and everything will lean more toward red. (Yellow will lean toward amber/orange, etc.)

Lord Dottore Matto

10-15-2008, 07:10 PM

I used little pots on mine (on the red because it was overpowering) ans adjusted the red down until I was able to get all of the color combos that I wanted!:p

Hola Nova! show up at the kegger from time to time!

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie

10-15-2008, 07:29 PM

What pots did you use?

Lord Dottore Matto

10-15-2008, 07:54 PM

What pots did you use?

This one--->http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062300&cp=&sr=1&kw=potentiometer&origkw=potentiometer&parentPage=search

Hope it helps!;)

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie

10-15-2008, 08:21 PM

Beauty! Thanks!

valeon

10-15-2008, 09:30 PM

stupid question, how do you wire the pots into this setup? I think a simple mspaint diagram would suffice.

Lord Dottore Matto

10-16-2008, 01:04 AM

________________M_____________________D

From board_____Potentiator_____Red LED(+) Lead

Simple really, just wire the pot in the positive lead between the board and the red LED. The pot has three prongs use the two outer ones (not the central one) then try the different rotary settings until you get the shades you want!

valeon

10-16-2008, 01:21 AM

Ah, instead of using the dip, just wire em in for each color. Sorry if that's a repeat, but I gotcha now.

valeon

10-16-2008, 06:09 PM

Call me stupid, but I'm here to learn, any pics of a pot wired in? It helps to have a visual aid.

darth might

05-05-2009, 12:25 AM

with out all of what you did can i just cross the red and blue wiers and conect to the blue lead please help i would love a purple blade on my saber and i have this one the lightsaber construction kit thanks

LordCyric

05-05-2009, 08:29 AM

Crossing wires isn't exactly what you'd want to do... Nor is it something I'd recomend anyone randomly trying to do either.

First, are you looking for a Purple blade all the time? If this is the case you'd basically need to bypass the blade selection switch all together, then Run power to the red and blue LED's at the same time. This may not give you the desired purple, many say that Red tends to overpower the blue quite a bit. At this point you'd also need to add a resistor to the red to "tone it down" some.

As for the Technical specs, I would recommend reading up on basic electronics before attempting something like this.

Valgard Telash

05-16-2009, 03:41 PM

hi guys, i just tried the mod and got problems........
the sound board and crash sensor all wor fine but i aint gettin no lights.

what could be the issue......anyone ....ppplllease!!

i put u 3k res on the red (bought the wrong one from the shop!), would this effect all the colours?

also ime using thicher wire than you, would this be a cause?

(total newb!)
sory for being a pain in the arse

Valgard Telash

05-17-2009, 02:19 AM

nevernind guys.......stupid me got the negatives mixed up

dam i feel like a fool!

dgdve

08-20-2009, 06:56 AM

ok where did you get that 3 pole 8 position switch? i cant seem to find it on the link you sent
ty in advance

JediMaster33

09-14-2009, 01:06 PM

grayven

What is the part number of the rotary switch you got from Allied Electronics? I am trying to convert my saber to a selectable RGB. Also how do you connect the switch, can you show me a schematic?

Thanks,

JM33

robr

12-25-2009, 10:01 PM

I just purchased a pre-modded one on ebay for my son for xmas, dip switches on each color with a potentiometer on the red. It was by FAR the biggest hit this year, he will not let it out of his hand. His sister got the Hasbro Clone Wars build your own kit, that was originally going to be his gift but I had a hard time finding one so happened to order both just to make sure one of them arrived. Wow, what a piece of junk the Hasbro one is compared to the Joe Jedi (I will be looking up mods for the Hasbro next :)).

I'm wondering though if there is a recommended replacement for the blade to get brighter and more even distribution of the light. Thanks!

xl97

12-25-2009, 10:04 PM

robr

12-25-2009, 10:15 PM

Im not sure if a replacement blade will help on brightness..usually thats the LED's job..

however.. proper diffusion may help with that somewhat.. I know it will for sure help with a more even blade look.

It's actually pretty bright toward the base of the blade in broad daylight, so really good diffusion would improve things substantially even without increasing the brightness.

Kinrath Kensei

09-18-2011, 11:18 AM

So first off thanks for the tutorial, but after an exhaustive search I haven't found an answer to my question. All the diagrams and lay outs on this topic as far as I can tell have both the rotary switch and the dip switch, is there a way to do this where you replace the dip switch with a rotary? I have a Joe Jedi and have been considering using Grayven's mod for sometime but would like to change colors with out having to get out a tiny little screwdriver