My new Custom saber...Fury

[Arm on Fire]

Here's my design

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/furysaber.jpg

All my hilt pieces and most of the parts.... (2) 700 mA buckpucks = 1400 mA , red-o luxIII, 5 deg optics, SW-616 Sound board from radio shack fx construction set, DPDT switch, radio shack speaker, and 4 aaa battery pack.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/Furysaber002.jpg

Soldered the DPDT slider to the pins on the back of the switch thats soldered to the board.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/Furysaber011.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/Furysaber010.jpg

cut down the plastic housing the board was in originaly, cut and capped the onl led wires , and hot glued the clash sensor in place.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/Furysaber013.jpg

Here's my buckpuck setup.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/Furysaber016.jpg

here's both together.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/Furysaber020.jpg

Stay tuned... more to come :)

[Arm on Fire]

I was so focused on the wiring i missed a few pics but heres the electronics installed

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/2008_0313FurySaber0055.jpg

all wired and assembled

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/2008_0313FurySaber0043.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/2008_0313FurySaber0047.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/2008_0313FurySaber0046.jpg

The moment of truth...

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/2008_0313FurySaber0048.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/2008_0313FurySaber0050.jpg

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/2008_0313FurySaber0034.jpg

THANKS FOR LOOKING ;)

[Lord Maul]

I really like your wiring and battery chassis with door setup. VERY professional looking. Great work

[MaverickJsmith]

Very nice Arm of fire 8)

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

Nice! Very clean looking installation!

Good job!

[BhujangiJedi]

Very nice saber! Really beautiful, precise machining work and sleek design. I've never been a big fan of the style 1 blade holder, but it works well with your design and the black is a perfect touch.

I like what you did with the guard screws around the slide switch - I'm not terribly fond of the push-button switches, but they're easy to install and work with a simple driver or resistor. I'm thinking of countersunk slide switches for my next project, but not quite recessed, so probably a lower-profile version of what you have with some smaller guard screws and the slide switch sticking out of the hilt just a bit.

[Arm on Fire]

Thanks guys :)

Bhujangijedi, I had a real hard time finding a switch that i liked that was DPDT, i settled on the one in the store cause i liked the alunimum post, i was going to cut it down shorter but i found those thumb screws and liked the look of it. :)

[Hasid Lafre]

What screws are you using to hold the door on?

[Dark Navel]

Arm,

As you said us New Englanda's need to stick together. I should be getting some nice DPDT push style switches in..There's a moinor saga going on with those if you read my last post in the Dooku Hilt thread but I'll send you one if you would like.

I can also send you the specs on it. (I just popped in while on duty and of course I had to check the forums)

Did you use the MR board from the MR SW-616 kit? I'm looking to see how you wired that sucker..

DN

[Arm on Fire]

Hasid, got them from McMaster.com part #s 91746A218 they are listed under thumbscrews. they have a extensive selection of sizes and styles.

Dark, yeah send me one if you get extras , I have been keeping up with your progress sorry to hear about your delays, it sucks when its on the bench just waiting for parts.
It dose have the board from the SW-616 in it i tryed to get pics of how i wired it but i nmissed a few steps.
i have a wire diagram i made if you or anybody needs it.

[Dark Navel]

Arm,

Once I get them I'll mail one your way...If you could e-mail the diagram for that board and also include your mailing address that would be great.

Not sure if anyone else wants to see a pic of how you wired it but I guess if you posted it that would help out others (Just my 2 cents)

[Arm on Fire]

Here is my wiring diagram i used, Im no electrical wizard, but it worked for me ;)

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/furywiring3.jpg

[strengthofrage]

Thanks for the pics and diagram Arm, I just wired the same set up for my latest saber last night and I was stuck on how to tie in a new switch. Thanks to your diagram and pics of the MR board I was able to get some sleep last night lol. Thanks :)

[DaJoQuim]

wow you've done a great job here!!

[Sethski]

Very nice saber design, Arm on Fire - the coverplates look great and the layout is equally impressive when they're off. Hats off to you.

[Jeescook]

Awesome looking saber. How many have you made?

[Arm on Fire]

Thanks for the complements guys :)
Jeescook, this is my 2nd Custom

[Er Dan Gill]

Most impressive for only your second custom. I really like your packaging set up too. Curious though, how long did it take you build?

[Arm on Fire]

Er Dan Gill, thanks, it took about 10-12 hours to machine all the parts and pieces, and about 4-5 hours to wire it.

The design however, I dont know. I would do a little here ,then change everything and start over, it took me weeks to make up my mind on some of the parts and finalize the design. :)

[Er Dan Gill]

4-5 hours just in the wiring, thats just, wow:shock:.
No wonder your packaging is so nice and neat.

[Arm on Fire]

Yeh, I went slow and checked and double checked everything, I had never wired a saber like that before and i didnt want to fry any thing. :)

[DACOTA]

Thats a bad butt saber.:p

[Novastar]

Arm, I forgot to comment on this a while back! I *LOVE* the "access plate to electronics" idea. I had been tossing that idea around with Corbin a long time ago, but it never got completed. Great stuff! Saber looks awesome!! :) Bravo, bravi, bravi... bravissimi!

[Arm on Fire]

Thanks Nova ,but i cant take the credit on the the access plate ,it was inspired by some of Treadingwolf's sabers, he uses sinktube shrouds that are "Hinged" to the body of the saber for access panels. very cool :)

[Darth_DevilGuy]

/lurk

anyone know if theres a way to use the gaurded latching pushbuttons sold in the store to do this? I'm looking at reconfiguring the one I'm building (yes I'm still building it) to use one of those and I have a 616 board and a corbin driver and the new switches are ever so pretty.

also, did you have to remove the orriginal board mounted switch? and if so what did it take?

[Arm on Fire]

Nope, I left the original switch on the board. by soldering on the pins that stick out the back you can bypass it. I dont know if it would work the same if you used that switch being that it is spst, I dont see why both circuts need to be seperate if they are using the same voltage. but I am no wiz with electronics so maybe some one else knows.

[Dark Navel]

Arm...This may be a really stupid question but I just picked up a 616 kit and I am wondering if the stock button on the soundboard shouuld be left in the on or off position. Does it matter?? I don't feel like frying the board so I thought I would ask a stupid, but pertinent, question instead.

[Darth_DevilGuy]

I was going to say on, but with another switch completing the circuit from the other side of the board now I think it doesn't matter.:cool:

[Arm on Fire]

I leave mine off , the switch I used just bypasses it, but it also depends on how you have your switch wired.

[Hasid Lafre]

Got any closer detail pics on how you did this?

[Arm on Fire]

the only pics i have are at the begining of this thread, i wish i had taken more but i was so wrapped up in it i kept forgeting to stop and take pics, sorry :(

[LAN-ED-TUL]

got a question. using the way you wire up the dbl 700 mah pucks to drive 1400 on the red/O led, can you run a larger batt pack than the 4 cell 4.8 size?

in other words, instead of a 4.8 recharge pack, can i safely run a 7.2 2600 mah batt pack on that setup?

if so, then i can just get 2 of those, their goin in my dbl saber hilt. a dbl 700 puck in each half, drivin a red/O led in each end.

[xwingband]

Yeah, buckpucks are awesome in voltage. The more you can give them the better. I believe their max is 24 V. In a nice sized hilt you could get crazy runtimes!

[Darth_DevilGuy]

question, which prongs did you need to solder the new switch to on the back of the board, I can see they're both on the back line of three, is it the far left and middle or the two outside prongs?

[Arm on Fire]

looking at the 3rd pic down on the first page, its the 2 on the top right.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

awesome, thanks X. it shouldnt generate much more heat than what is is now, i reckon.

one half got turned on, and was on for a lil while, and when i found it on, i picked it up, and it was definately warm in the spot where i have the 2 pucks set.

[savyas]

buckpuck max voltage is 32V - go nuts!

[Darth_DevilGuy]

figured something out, if you just solder those two pins together and wire the switch in at the positive lead off the battery pack you save alot of fidly soldering, it also keeps the two circuits seperate without having to use a DPDT switch.

[Arm on Fire]

are you getting the power down effects? I found that if you just cut the power too quickly you dont get the power down.

[Darth_DevilGuy]

yeah it actually doesn't do the power down which is kind of annoying but on the whole minor, the power up swing and clash all work which is most of what I wanted.

[Silent_Jedi]

First time caller, long time listener...

I'm noticing that in the picture, the LED is being run off of the orignial 616's board's wires that were connected to the orignial LED, but in the diagram, it's showing that only the blue and white wires off the Buckpuck are connected to the LED. Is this an error? And what of the grey and yellow wires on the buckpuck..were they removed or should they be connected?
Also, if I wanted to change it from a switch activator to a button type, how would I go about doing that?

Silent Jedi

[Arm on Fire]

Silent Jedi, I guess my pics are kind of misleading, I took those pics before i cut off the original LED that came on the saber, the pics were ment to show the original parts i used and where i soldered on the switch, there are pics missing that show the cut and caped wires from the old LED. The red-o lux III I used is being run off the 2 buckpucks, the pic dosnt show the led just the quick connector that it hooks up to .It is a seperate circuit from the 616 board but are both run off the same battery pack and a DPDT switch. yes i cut off the yellow and grey puck wires they are used if you want a dimmer. if you want you could use a push on / push off button as long as its DPDT.hope this helps.:)

[Arm on Fire]

If wired according to the diagram I posted previously in this thread the powerdown sounds are sporadic at best. By adding a diode I have corrected this.
Here is the updated wiring diagram showing where I put the diode. :)

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff204/armonfiredesigns/furywiring7-16-08.jpg

[prowless]

Very awesome saber!!
I have a few questions though.

What kind of diode did u add?
Can this be run on 1 1000mh buckpuck?

Thanks

[Arm on Fire]

I'm pretty sure these are the diodes...

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062575

I, and others have found it best to put a diode on both circuts instead of just the 1 in the diagram.

Yes it can be run on 1 1A puck, or 1 700mA puck or even a resistor setup.

[prowless]

Thank you.

I been waiting to use these for something for quite some time.

[pceptimus]

sorry to revive an old thread but can you use the original on board switch with a buckpuck?

[Arm on Fire]

while it is still attached to the board?

[Anavrin]

sorry to revive an old thread but can you use the original on board switch with a buckpuck?

I -think- (someone correct me if I'm wrong, PLEASE, as I'm a few days away from /trying/ this!) that if you run your LED wires off the board to the CTRL REF wires of a six-wire buckpuck, then power both from your battery pack, and the LED from the Puck, you come out clean with a ramp effect and sound off the on-board switch (or another if you choose to replace that).

[gundamaniac]

Oh god that would be insanely awesome...anything so I can keep the standard spst pushbutton from TCSS (don't feel like placing an order just to pick up one button for a saber I need to complete [read: add sound to] this month)

[Darth_DevilGuy]

Oh god that would be insanely awesome...anything so I can keep the standard spst pushbutton from TCSS (don't feel like placing an order just to pick up one button for a saber I need to complete [read: add sound to] this month)

if it's a latching it should work...

[pceptimus]

while it is still attached to the board?

yes :p

[pceptimus]

I -think- (someone correct me if I'm wrong, PLEASE, as I'm a few days away from /trying/ this!) that if you run your LED wires off the board to the CTRL REF wires of a six-wire buckpuck, then power both from your battery pack, and the LED from the Puck, you come out clean with a ramp effect and sound off the on-board switch (or another if you choose to replace that).

Thats what i want to try but i wanted to see if you could use the original switch as is while its attached to the board as there wont be enough room in the saber to add a switch.

[Darth Astronimus]

Dang thats nice.:)

[Arm on Fire]

I dont think the board will like voltage passing through the switch like that, I did try it once and couldnt get it to work, but I really didnt spend a lot of time on it. I dont think the board is using both poles on the switch, maybe you could tie the puck to the other pole.

[pceptimus]

I dont think the board will like voltage passing through the switch like that, I did try it once and couldnt get it to work, but I really didnt spend a lot of time on it. I dont think the board is using both poles on the switch, maybe you could tie the puck to the other pole.

im not an expert on electronics im a n00b geting experience as i blow boards :rolleyes: just thought someone might have tied a buckpuck into the original switch i want to see about using the 6 wire puck using ctl and ref to control the ramping effect. if its not posible then oh well just thought i would ask.

[Anavrin]

im not an expert on electronics im a n00b geting experience as i blow boards :rolleyes: just thought someone might have tied a buckpuck into the original switch i want to see about using the 6 wire puck using ctl and ref to control the ramping effect. if its not possible then oh well just thought i would ask.

As long as you don't pump more amps through the board than it can handle, I can't see a problem :? Four AAA's doesn't sound like it'd kill a 616. Of course, I'm sticking to three in the original package, so we'll see.

[pceptimus]

As long as you don't pump more amps through the board than it can handle, I can't see a problem :? Four AAA's doesn't sound like it'd kill a 616. Of course, I'm sticking to three in the original package, so we'll see.

im useing the original battery pack also i just wondered if anyone knew where to soldier the wires from the puck to the board switch?

[Anavrin]

im useing the original battery pack also i just wondered if anyone knew where to soldier the wires from the puck to the board switch?

Wait– I thought you were going to be using a 6-wire buck puck? if so, leave the switch alone and wire your LED wires frfom the board to the CTRL REF wires on the buck puck and that'll act a bit like a potentiometer, giving you the ramp effect with no mucking about with the board. Again, this is theory until I see it done, which might just be when I do it.

[pceptimus]

Wait– I thought you were going to be using a 6-wire buck puck? if so, leave the switch alone and wire your LED wires frfom the board to the CTRL REF wires on the buck puck and that'll act a bit like a potentiometer, giving you the ramp effect with no mucking about with the board. Again, this is theory until I see it done, which might just be when I do it.

oh i get it wire the puck direct to the battery then the ctl and ref to the led wires so it goes off but the puck is still powered and use a kill switch to cut power altogether when not in use. right?

[Anavrin]

oh i get it wire the puck direct to the battery then the ctl and ref to the led wires so it goes off but the puck is still powered and use a kill switch to cut power altogether when not in use. right?

Or just remove the batteries entirely (My solution to the rare but painful problem of leaking cells). Otherwise, you're on target, now!

[pceptimus]

Or just remove the batteries entirely (My solution to the rare but painful problem of leaking cells). Otherwise, you're on target, now!

well thats probably what i will end up doing if i cant get the board to give out more than 500ma with my experiment. thanks for the help :D

[Arm on Fire]

Won't work that way. much of this has been tried already.

the cntl and ref wires on the puck are ment to be used with a pot. not to have voltage put into them, in fact i believe they have about 5v coming out, just no current

The only way it will work is to have the output from the 616 power a relay that acts as a switch for the puck, the trick is finding a relay that will fit in the hilt and has the right power requirements.

Ive done quite a few of these and the simplest and easiest way to use a 616 and a puck is to use a dpdt switch and put each circuit on its own pole. sure it sucks that you dont have a good selection of switches to use but thats the price you pay when trying to adapt a board to do something it was not designed to do.

to me its not worth possibly frying a perfectly good sound board over but if you want to poke around, go for it maybe you will figure it out. just my $.02

[pceptimus]

Won't work that way. much of this has been tried already.

the cntl and ref wires on the puck are ment to be used with a pot. not to have voltage put into them, in fact i believe they have about 5v coming out, just no current

The only way it will work is to have the output from the 616 power a relay that acts as a switch for the puck, the trick is finding a relay that will fit in the hilt and has the right power requirements.

Ive done quite a few of these and the simplest and easiest way to use a 616 and a puck is to use a dpdt switch and put each circuit on its own pole. sure it sucks that you dont have a good selection of switches to use but thats the price you pay when trying to adapt a board to do something it was not designed to do.

to me its not worth possibly frying a perfectly good sound board over but if you want to poke around, go for it maybe you will figure it out. just my $.02

Oh well the hope it to up the ma to the led while keeping the ramping effect the most some of us have got is 500ma while keeping the ramping effect. my p4 red is bright enough and im only putting 350ma into it at the moment.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Won't work that way. much of this has been tried already.

the cntl and ref wires on the puck are ment to be used with a pot. not to have voltage put into them, in fact i believe they have about 5v coming out, just no current

The only way it will work is to have the output from the 616 power a relay that acts as a switch for the puck, the trick is finding a relay that will fit in the hilt and has the right power requirements.

Ive done quite a few of these and the simplest and easiest way to use a 616 and a puck is to use a dpdt switch and put each circuit on its own pole. sure it sucks that you dont have a good selection of switches to use but thats the price you pay when trying to adapt a board to do something it was not designed to do.

to me its not worth possibly frying a perfectly good sound board over but if you want to poke around, go for it maybe you will figure it out. just my $.02


This is wadeh13, I have changed my name.
I have found DPDT relays with a 5V coil at radio shack. They are small enough to fit inside a saber hilt. I had to use one using a guarded switch with a 4 wire switch MR board. Very nice saber.

[Arm on Fire]

The major drawback to using a relay however is that once the battery's where down to the point voltage drops below 5v the relay may not function and shut off the led even though the batterys stilll have enough juice to run the LED.

[gundamaniac]

Ugh. Is there any way to do this without a DPDT switch? I'm trying to use the 616 in my friend's christmas saber...and it's using the pushbutton latching switch that Tim sells.

And does anyone have a rough LED runtime with the relay?

[Anavrin]

See? I should have listened to Arm On Fire. So now I'll ask him, since he seems to know more than those who DARE disagree with him ;)

If I wired the Puck's VIN- in series with the switch, ah heck, Arm On Fire (Or anyone), would /this/ work? I'm not expecting ramping, I just want to know if I'm getting the basics of wiring down, or if I'm off my rocker again.
http://www.theangelcriedtruth.net/buckpucksetup.jpg

[Arm on Fire]

No, think of it this way, the board has voltage going threw it at all times as long as there are battery's installed. the built in switch on the board is only switching the positive (or negative I'm not sure which) flow to the components on the board. trying to hook in a puck into this switch is introducing another voltage /amperage source to the board which it will not like, and therefore will not work.

You cannot use the ctrl/ref wires with the onboard switch either because the puck works the opposite way, if the circuit is closed the puck is off.

I seem to keep saying this.....

The only way to make this work is with a DPDT Switch or with a relay.

BOTH CIRCUITS HAVE TO BE KEPT SEPARATE, THEY DO NOT PLAY NICELY TOGETHER.

Please, if someone can prove me wrong I will welcome you with open arms. (although one or them will be on fire :) )

[Darth_DevilGuy]

yeah, we just need to find a decent standard relay...

[Anavrin]

Ah, alright. It's no just a latching then. Fudge, this is more difficult than I was expecting. Well, Then, I'll place the puck aside and start tweaking the Stock internals. Thanks, Arm on –especially for your patience :D

*dies*

[Zook]

I am not one for posting unless I have something to add but have been reading a lot and have learned so much with this obsessive hobby I picked up a few months ago (like I don’t have enough hobbies).

Anyway I found this post when I was wiring up my MHS hilt. I have a 616 board and just a resistor (for now). I originally hooked it up with a DPDT switch I picked up at a local electronic supply house but I didn’t like the size of the push button switch in my hilt and didn’t want to put a sliding switch in (using the factory hole on the main body). I decided to look into a relay. Because I am using a choke I do not have much room in my hilt so I wanted to use a really small relay. I picked up an IC type DPST relay that is really small and worked well. It is an ECG Component (brand) part number RLYF2A005. It has a drop out voltage of .8V and a pull in voltage of 3.75. I just wired it in place of the DPDT switch pin 1 and 7, 8 and 14 open until the coil is energized (pin 2 and 6). I was then able to use my stsp switch I originally got from Tim. I used the switch to energize the coil.

The only problem I had is the power down sound would not work (already had a diode in the curcuit). The diode must not have been large enough because I put another one in series and that fixed the sound issue. I am no expert on diodes so that may not have been the correct thing to do...but hey its working.

So far it works well but I only played with the saber for about 20 min. top.

below are a couple of files...the relay info the parts place copied for me and a drawing with the dpst relay in place of the dpdt switch (borrowed from another poster on here but can’t remember the thread I found it in.

I will try to do a more professional easier to understand version (correct pins on correct side) later but this will at least show what I did.

There may be an easier way to wire one up but I didn’t really want to think about it too much and decided to just go this route and replace the switch.

Sorry if this info is already on here somewhere.

Click to download PDF file

DPSTrelay.pdf (http://www.mandysbabies.com/saber/DPSTrelay.pdf)

Remember when identifying the correct pins on the relay it is from the top of the chip not from the bottom.


here is the pic I borrowed from someone here (with just resistor not buckpuck...but wiring would be the same...just take the pins from the dpdt switch and put them on the correct circuits of the relay)


Click for bigger pic
http://www.mandysbabies.com/saber/DPSTrelays.jpg (http://www.mandysbabies.com/saber/DPSTrelay.jpg)

[morpheus1977]

It livessssssssss!!!!!!

[Dark Navel]

He he...my pic. Glad to see it helped someone and I might as well save the update it in my pics.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

For a necropost, this one is AWESOME! Good work my man. Now, get that detailed pix up!;)

[Darth Cipher]

Awesome saber! I can't wait to build mine...What did you use for the sound board chassis?

[Arm on Fire]

For a necropost, this one is AWESOME! Good work my man. Now, get that detailed pix up!;)

Though I might be a little biased, I agree LDM :) it always seems to pop up with every new batch of noobs (no offense noobs :) )

Darth Cipher - Its the original 1/2 of the black plastic joe-jedi innards.

[Zook]

Sorry guys...I didnt look at the original post date just the date of the very last post which was dated 2-26-09 so I figured one month wouldnt be bringing back the dead.

This thread was very useful to me when I was wiring my saber and I didnt even realize it was in the gallery section.

When I do a new diagram I will post a new post in the LED or wiring section instead of this thread in the gallery.

Thanks again for all the help posted in this thread.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

I don't think anyone was worried about you reviving an old thread, since you added something useful to it.

Where necroposting is a problem is when someone revives an old thread just to say something like, "Nice saber. I like it."

If you do a new diagram, it wouldn't hurt to put it in this thread too, since this one comes up often in a search for threads about the 616 board.