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Dandura
02-23-2008, 06:27 PM
This is the future of my saber, so far I'm on phase 2, and saving up for phase three. It currently houses a Lux V Cyan (Bin 3 I think, looks green.) with a puck. Crazy bright! Also I know the rayskin on the grip looks out of alignment, but I wasn't about to go back and redo it so we'll just assume it lines up with the sink tube like the ray skin on the shroud does. I'm planning on upgrading it with a CF V3.0 and a rechargable Battery pack, and of course a recharge port. my only worry is that even a small crystal window may compromise structural integraty during dueling, has anybody had a problem with that? i.e a bent hilt or something.

If you have any suggestions or critisicms, feel free to expunge them!

Black thin neck.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2313/2286627953_4aa64dc027_o.jpg

Bare thin neck.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2409/2287392424_1a7a326823_o.jpg

37H4N
02-23-2008, 06:35 PM
:shock: Thats a sick design there Dandura. Can't wait to see pics.

Lord Maul
02-23-2008, 07:04 PM
Great design. I like the black thin neck myself.

I'd have to caution you about that crystal chamber. I don't think it would work in that spot. Not anywhere near enough room.

Dandura
02-23-2008, 08:10 PM
Yeah I am probably going with the black neck, I like it better. I thought there might be a space issue as well, but at worst i'll have to add and extension, no big deal. Actually I am getting a CF v3.0 forgot to put that in the post, with a 7.2 volt 4-cell nimh pack it just might fit.

P.S. If I have time I will add top and bottom views.

Hasid Lafre
02-23-2008, 08:56 PM
IF your ognna do a crystal chamber then make a small one. like a half inch long but skinny window(if you want), then I would say an inch total for the crystal/led mount and wires/screws.

IT can be done. Just think it through and dont make/get a big crystal chassis.

Lord Maul
02-23-2008, 09:00 PM
If you use Tim's triangular 7.2V NiMH pack that saber will not work.

The Only way to make it all fit using the parts you have pictured would be to use the 4.8V NiMH pack or the Li Ion 7.2V pack and stack the board and batteries.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/MHS%20Saber/IMG_1138.jpg

That is my saber. I have a 1" exposed crystal chamber in it. With Tim's 7.2V NiMH pack, I BARELY got it all to fit. It was such a tight fit that the first time I assembled it, 5 wires shredded and the switch broke.

Hasid Lafre
02-23-2008, 09:07 PM
YEs you used a 1" opening which if you made it a bit smaller you would of had a bit more usable workspace, that and you used a star-o IIRC which isent exactly small eather.

This is assuming you put the board in the ribbed section.

Dandura
02-23-2008, 09:20 PM
yeah if I had another view of my design it would be the same type of chamber vent as yours maul. although I am going to build a chassis similar to Yoda's graflex chassis, but with only three aluminium rods (of the smallest size) connected to some washers. Plus many quick connects for easy, destruction free installation. lol i can see how you might have a space issue with a stock tcss switch trying to fit that stuff in, I realized that was a problem for me, so I am seeking the smallest usable switches I can find, something like the switches on stinkybanthas rancor. I will start with a half inch vent and see If there is room to expand, luckily my neighbor is a machinist.

Didn't realize they had 6-cells, thats ridicoulous that there aren't more pics to show the SHAP of the thing. But the description did say 6-cell upon re observation.
so now it either lose the chamber to fit CF, or go with a smaller battery which means lesss saber life. Wha will last longer do you think, the Li-ion 7.2, or the NiMh 4-cell 4.8?

Hasid Lafre
02-23-2008, 09:36 PM
SB used tactal switches and sandwiched them between the hilt with some glue and a piece of sinktube. The 2 screws on eacy end are what hold the piece of sinktube thats holding the switches.

Mah means milliamps per hour. so think of 1000 mah is about an hour.

Yes runtime is nice but if you have space issues then your gonna have to buck up and go with a little less runtime for the space and power. Persionally I would go with the li-ion pack.

I have a the AA pack that tim sells and the runtime was great(about 2.5 hours) but after a while I noticed I dident use it as much. thinking back on it I should of just went with the AAA pack. But then again Iam not running a luxV. Even if I was running a luxV I wouldent waste precious hilt space with acrystal chamber that lights up.

Dandura
02-23-2008, 09:37 PM
yes if you look at my concept you will see the exact same thing.

Hasid Lafre
02-23-2008, 09:42 PM
Ok was just making sure. But persionally I would go with some small momentarys that have a nut to hold them in place. Iam not trusing a piece of sinktube that dosent thread very well to hold my switch setup in place.

Dandura
02-23-2008, 09:46 PM
yeah I will probably use some nuts on the inside of the hilt, otherwise I agree with you without them i am surprised at the security of SB's setup.

Darth_DevilGuy
02-24-2008, 01:27 AM
nice design!

Dandura
02-24-2008, 09:41 AM
Thanks Darth!

MaverickJsmith
02-24-2008, 02:48 PM
Whoa O_O That design is so awesome, can I make it? XD

Send some more views our way 8)

Dandura
02-24-2008, 04:28 PM
Thanks Maverick! Of course you can, but I would highly encourage you to make your own, as your saber is supposed to reflect who you are and what your combat style is. I like makashi so I have a thin neck for better blade manipulation. I'll work on more views when I get home. I've got the hang of it now so if you guys give me a sketch I can render it in paint! Check out the Sabers in MS Paint tutorial by corbin.