View Full Version : RED LED Indacator?

02-18-2008, 04:14 AM
any one here used the red indacators on one of ther MHS sabers and if so how did u wire them in?

do u have any pix of what thay look like on the saber?

i would like to add them to my lightsaber(when i finsh geting all the parts) and i would like to know how good thay look i wanted to use the longer ones but thay are out of stock but now i have a plan on how to use the smaller ones

any help would be nice thank you all

02-28-2008, 02:09 AM
I haven't used the ones specifically here at TCSS, but it's clear from my videos of Flange III (both green & red) that I've used a throng of indicator LEDs.

In my case... yes, they are on CF, but... the following will be true in almost any case of wiring an "indicator" LED:

* You essentially treat it like any OTHER LED... such as the Luxeon... it has a fwd v to "obey" and current ranges/limits to "obey". You want to know the fwd v and the max. continuous current.

* You will need a resistor to prevent the LED from being fed too much voltage/current. Use a resistor/LED calculator to figure things out--your battery solution is important, and you need to know how many volts your batteries provide.

* You will need to give the + lead of the LED... + "juice" from the batteries... you will need to give the - lead of the LED... - uh "juice" from the batteries. Just like the "main Luxeon" gets in most cases.

* Indicator LEDs can be wired to: behave like the main Luxeon LED does (if it's being driven/flickers/flashes at all/whatever)... be on all the time... be controlled by a switch... or many other things. All depends on whether or not you're using a driver board or not.

Good luck!

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
02-28-2008, 01:14 PM
I put two blinking LEDs in my hilt, but I cheated and did it the easy way. The ones I used are looking for about 3V. Since I am using 4AAAs at the moment, I just put the 2 LEDs in series, tapping off the power before the Lux's resistor, and didn't have to bother with resistors.

Don't know if that helps or not. You're probably better off taking Novastar's advice.

02-28-2008, 05:29 PM
thanx any help is still help

when i first wanted to put the leds on the saber i was thinking recgarge port leds but then i started thinking more and i just want them to be on all the time

so i think im going to have to suply them with ther own power i could just use 2AAAs that should be enough... well then again Novastar and Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie thak u for ur help

maybe just easyer to do the recharge port

02-28-2008, 06:59 PM
Obi Dar's solution works fine too... there is no reason mine would necessarily be better... there is only what works and what doesn't!

Lestat, a separate battery solution will work too, but you might think of using coin cells. They are perfect for most "little" LEDs.

But, you can also use your main battery source--it won't steal much current away from your main LED. It's all up to you on how you wish to do it. And besides... even if you DO screw up the little LEDs... they are like... what... 20 cents each? Maximum $1 each?? No big deal, and experience is experience for learning...

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
02-28-2008, 07:53 PM
Basically, we are saying the same thing. Figure out what the LEDs are wanting, and give it to them.

What are you using for power in your saber, and how many LEDs do you want to use?

02-28-2008, 08:26 PM
well i dont have anything but the sink tube at the moment but i was eather going to use a Lux3 Amber or a K2 Green

i only wanna use 2 little LEDs on the saber or in it kinda like a crystal chamber but not really

Green is my fav color but i also love the look of the amber sabers so idk i will have to see how much i have to spend my daughters b-day just passed do credits are a little hard to come by

i was trying to do a diagram of how it is going to be wired but i cant seam to fit the leds in to it

i took the pic of the MHS diagram with the wires in it and have no clue how or wher to add the leds

02-29-2008, 01:46 AM
You should re-read my initial reply to you (2nd post in this thread). It tells you how to treat your indicator LEDs, and that they both get + and -, just like most any other component.

Again... harming or destroying little tiny basic LEDs... is of no great consequence... they are inexpensive. :) So feel free to experiment anyhow!

Also... do not expect everyone to do everything for you. We are here to HELP... but there is something to be said for studying and learning on your own. I can tell you with 100% certainty that the information you seek... IS EASILY AVAILABLE here on TCSS (possibly in many diagrams)... or elsewhere all over the net.

Wiring an indicator LED is easy. In fact, try squeezing a coin cell in between the long pins on your indicator LEDs... bam! You'll see light right away! It's that easy.


They are called "LED throwies" or poppers. Pretty easy, and relatively cool. Think outside the box for the next party you throw, hehehh.

02-29-2008, 02:33 AM
ok this is the wire diagram i have and i adapted it to the sink tube style i plan to use

http://thumb15.webshots.net/t/64/564/2/81/37/2870281370066625895agZNkn_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2870281370066625895agZNkn)

and now this is what i came up with
http://thumb15.webshots.net/t/63/663/8/39/73/2291839730066625895xbjznk_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2291839730066625895xbjznk)
with wire to switch

http://thumb15.webshots.net/t/64/564/5/69/58/2713569580066625895ifCWBT_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2713569580066625895ifCWBT)
and this one the led is wired to the bat pack

im sure thay will both work but what do i know... and i did see the post but if i dont understand i have to keep asking thats why i was never good in school lol

but thank u for helping me and puting up with me

i have this led flash lite i have to rewire so ya that is my test

02-29-2008, 09:32 AM
I believe you will need a resistor inbetween the power and the indicator regardless of configuration.

Novastar has a great idea tho. If you want it on ALL the time, just pop in a 25 watch battery to just power the LED. 3v, and you don't need a resistor.

My wife and I wanted our wedding centerpiece vaces to light up, but did not want wires or cord. We used 4 Throwies at the bottom of each, sealed in tiny ziplock baggies. They ran for 4 or 5 days. So as long as you open the saber, pop in the watch battery (for a con or something), you should be good all day.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
02-29-2008, 07:49 PM
To Novastar you should listen. Wise is he in the ways of the LED. I am but a Padawan, and have only a dim awareness of the Great Diodes of Light.

(BTW, those throwies are pretty cool. I'll have to make some of those up.)

03-02-2008, 06:32 PM
If you put the indicator LED(s) on a different pole of a DPDT switch, you could also allow the switch to turn off the indicators separate of the Luxeon and/or sound circuit... and thus, you may rarely need to mess with the coin cell for the indicators.

Or... you could give them an ENTIRELY separate switch and circuit.

Something like:

SWITCH 1 = Sound, luxeon, main battery source
SWITCH 2 = LED indicator(s), coin cell (no resistor needed)

In fact, I always suggest two separate switches (and thus, circuits) for people who are (for example) doing something like a Lux V with an MR. What's the point of using a relay, when you can essentially make yourself:

* Sound on and off option (tunr on/off MR)
* Use the MR's light-driving leads to do some indicators
* Use the SECOND switch & circuit to power a Lux V on it's own battery source, either true direct drive, or with a resistor

SOOO much easier. :)