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tullfan81
02-16-2008, 01:50 PM
This is my first attempt at making a saber hilt, i have some soldering experience and have a Mace MR for sound, I'm looking for a critique of my build and any changes i should consider.

Double threaded hilt style 3
Gender Changer
3" Double female threaded connector
Screw on LED blade holder style 1
3 claw MHS mount
MHS Claw Style 2 x3
MPS Insert style 4
MPS Pommel style 3
1" Hilt safety plug
LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (30 inches)
Build Your Own Luxeon V Electronics Kit
- buckpuck 700mA
- SPST Push on/off - Mom switch with black button
- Cyan

Thanks in advance,
Rick

Darth_DevilGuy
02-16-2008, 02:11 PM
you need a battery pack for one

Malaki Skywalker
02-16-2008, 02:16 PM
you need a battery pack for one

He's buying the Build your own Lux V kit, battery pack is already in there ;-)

Darth_DevilGuy
02-16-2008, 02:37 PM
eh, wasn't listed :P

Jay-gon Jinn
02-17-2008, 12:06 AM
Just remember that an MR board needs to be run on a seprate circit or have a relay installed to operate with a Lux V. The 7.2 volts required for the Lux V will destroy the MR board.

tullfan81
02-17-2008, 02:43 PM
Would it be better to use a Hasbro board for sound? How difficult is it going to be to wire the MR board in with everything else? Will I have room for everything? Will I have to use the 9v or would it be long enough for the AA holder? If I wanted to go the rechargeable route what sort of pack/recharger would I need?

Edit: Also, would I be able to use the vibration module inside the hasbro Obi saber?

Jay-gon Jinn
02-17-2008, 03:12 PM
If this is your first time wiring a saber, and you have your heart set on using a Lux V, you may want to skip the sound for now, or just use a Lux III instead. Anything over 6 volts will also kill most of the Hasbro boards as well.

Wiring in the soundboard with the LUx III is very easy and there would be plenty of room in the hilt for the batteries and the board.

For rechargeable packs, look in the store and get the charger sold there.

tullfan81
02-17-2008, 03:56 PM
What is the real difference in brightness between the Lux III Cyan vs. the V Cyan?

Jay-gon Jinn
02-17-2008, 04:29 PM
Well, here's the Lux III page from Lumileds:
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=388&link_str=196::198&partno=LXHL-LE3C

and the Lux V:
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=370&link_str=199::201&partno=LXHL-LE5C

Lux V is twice as bright, but is in my opinion, twice the difficulty to use.

tullfan81
02-17-2008, 06:00 PM
What is the difference between Side emitting and Lambertian?

Angelus Lupus
02-17-2008, 06:25 PM
Side emiting does what it says: puts the light out the sides. Totaly useless for sending light down a tube, i.e. lighting the blade.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
02-17-2008, 06:33 PM
Read the FAQ. Lots of good basic info there.

http://www.luxeonstar.com/faq.php#Q1

tullfan81
02-19-2008, 10:03 AM
Doing some browsing on ultrasabers site, are the lux modular units te "quick change" system people are talking about?

xwingband
02-19-2008, 10:15 AM
Doing some browsing on ultrasabers site, are the lux modular units te "quick change" system people are talking about?

No. The MHS system already is capable of "quick changing". The system Ultra made is his attempt to idiot proof it and offer something for people that don't want to solder.

IMO it's useless for people who actually want to DIY.

Jay-gon Jinn
02-19-2008, 10:18 AM
This is the TCSS quick-change unit:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/LED%20Optics/star-led-MHS-mount.jpg
Simple MHS heatsink with a quick-disconnect soldered to the led.

tullfan81
02-19-2008, 11:08 AM
is the quick change set up out of stock in the shop?

i can't find it.

Lord Maul
02-19-2008, 11:15 AM
Get this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Quick-connector-P38.aspx

And this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Copper-MHS-LED-MountHeatsink-P234.aspx

And you're set. Tim doesn't offer the quick change kit as a packaged deal anymore, you have to get the parts individually.

tullfan81
02-19-2008, 11:31 AM
is the heat sink that cones with the blade holder useable with the quick change? or do i need to get the "upgrade"?

Lord Maul
02-19-2008, 12:52 PM
You don't need the upgraded heatsink, but the copper one works far better than the aluminum heatsink.

Jay-gon Jinn
02-20-2008, 01:00 AM
And if you order a blade holder, you'll get a heatsink, then all you have to do is order the quick-disconnect, or a couple, and you'll be all set if you decide later to change the led to a different color.

Hasid Lafre
02-20-2008, 02:32 AM
But works great if your using a fiber optic cable, I know some FOCables work best with a side emitting led of sorts.


Side emiting does what it says: puts the light out the sides. Totaly useless for sending light down a tube, i.e. lighting the blade.

tullfan81
02-20-2008, 01:49 PM
will the buckpuck run a LuxIII and the MR board? Also will the buckpuck replace the corbin driver in the wiring diagrams?

Jay-gon Jinn
02-21-2008, 01:01 AM
If you use the Lux III, you can run it directly off the board without the buckpuck.