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View Full Version : Corbin Wiring Diagrams



Hasid Lafre
02-14-2008, 11:24 PM
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/FXsoundbasic.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/FXsoundrecharge.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/FXsoundregulated.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/soundHasbro.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/W-Basic.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/W-Recharge.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/W-Safety.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/W-SafetyRes.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/WSafetyResPLI2.jpg

Ashron
04-09-2008, 05:04 PM
Awesome. This should be stickied:D

Er Dan Gill
04-09-2008, 05:17 PM
It won't matter in a few more months, since the board has been discontinued.

xl97
05-08-2008, 02:01 PM
?? the boards/forums are going bye bye?

sorry to drudge up a month old thread.. but I had no clue the TCSS forums were being discontinued. :(

Strydur
05-08-2008, 02:34 PM
The corbins board not the forums ;)

xl97
05-08-2008, 06:24 PM
haha..

damn.. this is one time Im 'glad' I read something wrong.. :)

DarthFender
05-08-2008, 06:49 PM
Yeah, but now it doesn't matter, cause the boards are comming back. Better than ever.

xl97
05-08-2008, 06:53 PM
are the layouts the same then?

making these diagrams still 'valuable'? or are they just for old tech that someone may still have?

Dark Helmet
05-08-2008, 08:44 PM
are the layouts the same then?

making these diagrams still 'valuable'? or are they just for old tech that someone may still have?

Either way these are still valid since the old boards were so strong many of the originals are still running, and will likely be running for a long time. Some may end up being re-sold or traded etc, so the new owners will need the info... I can't wait to get my hands on the new one, with the flicker effect, my old one is running my lux V cyan wonderfully! If you've never used one of these you're really missing out...the big diff on these is the expanded input/output voltage on the new ones, the 5V regulated soundcard diagram will be VERY important when the new ones get here. the switching options will remain the same too, so this thread will fire up pretty good soon....

xl97
05-08-2008, 08:58 PM
Im glad.. because I would REALLY like to get an OLD one..

I have the 'flicker/pulse' option available to me now (sorta,.... if I could ever wire up a hilt :D)

as I have a Plecter Driver/Dimmer that has a few programmable options.. as well as programmable up/down..etc yadda, yadda :)


but I see what you mean (as far my electronics challanged mind comprehends) that these are in tune with the foture of LED (and saber tech) in general.. able to take the LUX V's without problems/worrys.. etc..etc plus the options are great instead of being a regular driver (I hope you can turn off pulse/flicker completely as an option)


(Im having trouble uinderstanding how I can wire up my project.. since the boiard is latching, and the Hasbro is mom......and on what poles/legs I actually solder too!!)

so I understand (somewhat) ;) that these are new/better and I dont want my post to mislead.. I didnt mean that these were of no use anymore.. I guess I was clarifying if they are only usefull for the older style boards or both old & new. :)

take care

Matt Thorn
12-20-2008, 07:24 AM
I was lucky enough to get hold of a broken 2005 Mace Windu that turned out to have a perfectly functioning board. I would like to hook it up with a Corbin in order to get flicker and clash effects, but have a couple of concerns. So far in all my builds (just three), I have used a 4aaa pack of rechargeable 1000mA Ni-MHs, a Luxeon III, and a recharge port with a kill switch. Am I right in thinking that I will not get the flicker effect with the 4.8 volts this setup generates? And am I also correct in thinking that my MR board (see the photos below) would be fried (sooner or later) by a 6v charge? I'm frankly puzzled why Corbin would make an LED driver that requires 6v for full effect, knowing that one of the most common uses for it would be running it with an MR board. :confused:

I would like to have a one-switch setup, and don't require a lock-up effect. And if I'm not mistaken, with the board I have, I don't need to have separate sensors for the MR board and the Corbin board.

Sorry for asking questions that are probably implicitly answered elsewhere, but once talk turns to voltage regulators and Buckpucks and DPTP switches, the fuse in my little brain blows and I have to go watch the Teletubbies and eat dry Cheerios until it resets itself. :shock:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUz68nqgxYI/AAAAAAAAAE8/Edj7ZyUkh8E/s288/IMG_0238.JPG (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wpF0fLIHpEx8Dkqf7n2NEw?feat=embedwebsite)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SUz67g1fI2I/AAAAAAAAAE4/CQYqCjniQXE/s288/IMG_0239.JPG" (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jSThpSn4qIwtVXlvWDH7Qg?feat=embedwebsite)

Lord Dottore Matto
12-20-2008, 01:40 PM
6V will work perfectly for what you want to do. You need a DPDT switch, your corbin driver and you are set. Just don't use more than 6V!

eastern57
12-20-2008, 02:06 PM
6V will work perfectly for what you want to do. You need a DPDT switch and you are set. Just don't use more than 6V!

Actually, the versions with only two leads (two purple switch wires) you can use a regular SPST latching. They have same firmware as the better anakin, ob1, etc..

Jedi-Loreen
12-20-2008, 02:35 PM
I've got the Mace board with the 4 wires coming from the switch. :|

Lord Dottore Matto
12-20-2008, 03:31 PM
Actually, the versions with only two leads (two purple switch wires) you can use a regular SPST latching. They have same firmware as the better anakin, ob1, etc..

Ahem, I was talking about if he were to use a corbin v2 with it...:rolleyes: :lol:

I have edited my original advice for clarity's sake

Lord Dottore Matto
12-20-2008, 03:33 PM
I've got the Mace board with the 4 wires coming from the switch. :|

For that one, as eastern57 taught me, you must use a dpdt switch just for the board itself!:cool:

Jedi-Loreen
12-20-2008, 04:04 PM
Yeah, so I'm not gonna try it with my Corbin board, I'll just use it by itself.

eastern57
12-20-2008, 04:40 PM
Ahem, I was talking about if he were to use a corbin v2 with it...:rolleyes: :lol:

I have edited my original advice for clarity's sake

*Starts to say something.... humbly realizes he's made a mistake and bows most graciously to LDM*

"What can I say: 'we're only human'..."

Matt Thorn
12-20-2008, 05:21 PM
Ahem, I was talking about if he were to use a corbin v2 with it...:rolleyes: :lol:

I have edited my original advice for clarity's sake

Wait, so if I want to hook this board up to the Luxeon 3w driver V2 currently sold at TCSS, I will need a DPDT switch?
I'm happy to get such prompt responses, but I'm afraid I'm more confused now. :confused: Fuse is...
Must...watch...Teletubbies...Cheerios...:shock:

eastern57
12-20-2008, 05:27 PM
Yes, that's correct. In order to use both, you'll need a DPDT.

Look at this diagram/table - this would actually fall under either a DPDT OR DPST, but DPDTs are just more common.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch

Matt Thorn
12-20-2008, 05:37 PM
Yes, that's correct. In order to use both, you'll need a DPDT.

Look at this diagram/table - this would actually fall under either a DPDT OR DPST, but DPDTs are just more common.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch

Thanks! I actually understand that! I feel like I did when I figured out how to win at tic-tac-toe! And that was just last year!

Matt Thorn
12-20-2008, 06:40 PM
This is what I have now:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SU2U5JaH7bI/AAAAAAAAAFY/JGXVL9Adcjo/s288/IMG_0245.JPG (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MVPPTx7hRpe2n13y44RTdg?feat=embedwebsite)
So what I basically need to do is to replace the 4aaa pack with a 4aa pack, replace the current switch with a DPDT switch, and wire it according to the first diagram Hasid provided (below)? But with my 2005 Mace board, I can use the one clash sensor for both the MR board and the Corbin board, right? I have a four-wire sliding switch from a dead 2003 Vader board. Could I use that?
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Wiring%20diagrams/FXsoundbasic.jpg

Jay-gon Jinn
12-20-2008, 06:44 PM
The diagram shows two clash sensors for a reason....the MR board has current that runs through the sensor that the Corbin doesn't like. It will require two clash sensors. If you happen to have an old hasbro board that you may have fried, you can use the clash from that on the Corbin

Matt Thorn
12-20-2008, 06:57 PM
Thanks, Jay-gon Jinn. I was under the impression that some of the MR boards could handle having their clash sensor wired to the Corbin, and that this was one of them. I have a few clash sensors laying around that I can use.

Lord Dottore Matto
12-21-2008, 02:11 AM
*Starts to say something.... humbly realizes he's made a mistake and bows most graciously to LDM*

"What can I say: 'we're only human'..."

He He He He He...:lol:

Matt Thorn
12-21-2008, 07:41 AM
I've located a couple of push-button, momentary DPDT switches and am thinking of trying one, but I have a really dumb question. I have a couple of tactile switches on hand. Tactile switches have four posts. I assume that's for a reason. Now, from what I gather, DPDT switches have six posts. My dumb question is, can a tactile switch be used in essentially the same way as a DPDT switch; that is, can it be used to flip two separate circuits? In the long run, I ask because I'd like to hook up a Corbin board with either an MR board or a Hasbro board, but for the moment, I would just really like to eliminate the damned blinking caused by the Hasbro boards by running the LED directly from the 4aaa battery pack, and using the Hasbro board just for sound.

xwingband
12-21-2008, 12:00 PM
No... they're fundamentally different. Tactiles are momentary. A latching pushbutton is a a different action.

Also four posts is DPST. SPDT is three, etc...

Matt Thorn
12-21-2008, 04:38 PM
No... they're fundamentally different. Tactiles are momentary. A latching pushbutton is a a different action.

Also four posts is DPST. SPDT is three, etc...

Sorry, I wasn't clear enough. I would need a latching switch for the MR board, but for now I'm looking for a solution to the cursed Hasbro blinking, and the Hasbros (at least the versions I have) require momentary switches. The pushbutton DPDT switch I said I located is a momentary switch. Either way, I suspected the tactile switch couldn't be used for two circuits, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. ;)

Sorry to derail the topic.

Matt Thorn
01-09-2009, 06:49 PM
Back to the 2002 AOTC Anakin EL to Luxeon III conversion with the Corbin, does this look right?
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SWf-V36beQI/AAAAAAAAAOM/PF-jq5QzBP4/s800/anakin_aotc_luxeon3_corbin.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YE1oITk5ekFMwjhLBWYScw?feat=embedwebsite)
For a more detailed look at the AOTC Anakin board, see this thread. (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6934)

Matt Thorn
01-10-2009, 09:13 AM
From this thread (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4831&page=2):


you have 2 options, 5 or 6V voltage regulator with the current board, or simply replacing that EL/crap board. A 616 board is actually a good idea, especially with your corbin v2.

Thanks, LDM. I just tried the wiring I posted above, and it seems to work perfectly without a voltage regulator. Nothing seemed to be getting hot, the Lux looks good, the Corbin V2 is working fine... Am I looking at trouble down the road if I don't use a voltage regulator? :confused:

Lord Dottore Matto
01-10-2009, 04:40 PM
From this thread (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4831&page=2):



Thanks, LDM. I just tried the wiring I posted above, and it seems to work perfectly without a voltage regulator. Nothing seemed to be getting hot, the Lux looks good, the Corbin V2 is working fine... Am I looking at trouble down the road if I don't use a voltage regulator? :confused:


Well, you may. I did the same on Cuprum. It ran fine for about a week, then started to dim as the board started to go. I have since added a regulator and it works well. I'd say play it safe and add the regulator.

Matt Thorn
01-10-2009, 06:04 PM
Well, you may. I did the same on Cuprum. It ran fine for about a week, then started to dim as the board started to go. I have since added a regulator and it works well. I'd say play it safe and add the regulator.

Aha. That's good to know. Thanks for the heads up. Do you know what kind of regulator I would need exactly? I've never used one before.

EDIT: I've done a bit of studying. The voltage regulator shown in one of the wiring diagrams at the beginning of this thread is a 7805. 4aa batteries (6v) should give the Corbin the 6v necessary for the shimmer effect, but from what I've read, it seems a 7805 needs 7v or more to work properly. Will this be a problem? Or will the sound board be safe as long as it is getting no more than 5v? (Or, to put it another way, will the sound board be okay even it's not getting 5v?) When I took apart the AOTC Anakin, it looked to me like it was wired so that the sound board was getting 6v, while the EL driver was getting 9v. But since my knowledge of electronics is close to nil, I may have misunderstood what I was seeing.

Lord Dottore Matto
01-10-2009, 09:59 PM
Matt, you seem to have a very good feel actually. The regulator goes between the batteries and the board. It does not affect the Driver. That board needs 3.7V or more (but no more than 6V).

Matt Thorn
01-10-2009, 10:52 PM
Matt, you seem to have a very good feel actually. The regulator goes between the batteries and the board. It does not affect the Driver. That board needs 3.7V or more (but no more than 6V).

Great. Thanks for the confirmation. I'll get hold of one.

Matt Thorn
01-11-2009, 04:25 PM
So I want something like this for my AOTC Anakin conversion?
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SWp_1qoSBcI/AAAAAAAAAOo/Q4Nx-5UZqFM/s800/anakin_aotc_luxeon3_corbin.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9Cl0UrCcHSdR0TUY81VRJA?feat=embedwebsite)

Matt Thorn
01-17-2009, 01:26 AM
Bump.
I've set it up this way, and I get nothing. Nada. Zip. I've checked, and all the connections seem to be solid and where they should be. It's odd, because when I tested it before adding the voltage regulator, it seemed to work fine. I'll keep checking, but if any of you veteran electricians see something wrong with my wiring diagram, I'd be grateful if you could let me know.

Lord Dottore Matto
01-17-2009, 04:28 AM
Matt, try this hope it works for you but I am just not sure with that board

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll317/drdicarlo/anakin_aotc_luxeon3_corbin.jpg

Matt Thorn
01-17-2009, 05:08 AM
Thanks, LDM! I'll give it a try.

Matt Thorn
01-17-2009, 08:33 AM
Well, I got about half a second of the start-up sound, then silence. The LED and Corbin are now working fine (with the original wiring of the diagram I posted), but I can't get a peep out of the sound board. I tried switching speakers, changing switches, using a different battery pack (4.8 v).... Nothing works. I think it may be fried, though there was no smoke or odor, and nothing looks fried. Either way, I'm getting kind of sick of trying to get this board to work. I was hoping to sell it with the original sound board (in working order), but now I'm thinking of using a 2005 Mace Windu board instead. I wanted to use that one for another project, but the only other option I can think of is using a cheap old Hasbro board (and all of those, of course, have serious shortcomings). It's particularly disappointing, since it was actually working for a while. I think this board is probably just too fragile and fickle. These original EL sabers MR made are interesting curiosities today, but they were certainly weren't made to last, were they? :(

Having said all that, I think the wiring diagram is valid, so hopefully this will prove to be helpful to someone who is trying the same thing.

Matt Thorn
01-20-2009, 11:36 PM
I happened to acquire another AOTC Anakin, with a working board, so I replaced the board. Bingo. The original wiring diagram LDM offered (with the ground wire attached to the regulator) works perfectly. Thanks again, LDM!:D Still not sure what fried the original board, though. :(

Matt Thorn
01-24-2009, 03:06 AM
First, allow me to apologize for cross-posting this to three threads, but I think it's pertinent to all three.

I just got my LedEngin RGGB and RGBA LEDs today packed liked precious jewelry. :D And I finally hit on what I think should be a good working solution for the elusive Clone Wars Ultimate Lightsaber conversion that preserves both the sound and light functions of the original. I'm posting my tentative wiring diagram here in the hope that more experienced sabersmiths can check it for flaws. Since the LedEngin LEDs are not particularly cheap, I don't want to experiment with them till I'm 99.99% sure that I at least won't fry them. ;)

This uses the CWUL board, a LedEngin RGGB (LZ4-20MC10), a Corbin driver, three latching DPDT switches (one for each color, replacing the three push-to-make switches held down by the crystals), and one momentary DPDT switch (for turning the saber on and off). It seems to me that if the wiring diagram Eastern posted (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showpost.php?p=113939&postcount=20) works, this one should work, too.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_THBqz9vPciU/SX6MYvBepnI/AAAAAAAAAW0/H4buNvVZlNQ/s800/CWUL_LedEnginRGGB.jpg (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BcdgdRqVMzPiRZaX-Bshgw?feat=embedwebsite)

EDIT: The wiring for the green LEDs was wrong in the diagram. This is a corrected diagram.

BTW, the latching switches for the colors that I'm thinking of using light up in their respective colors when activated, and have a diameter of 7.4mm (0.29").

NOTE: Like all the Hasbro "toy" sabers (and even the earliest FX sabers), the Clone Wars Ultimate Lightsaber has a time-out function that kicks in if the clash sensor has not been activated for about a minute. Obviously, the Corbin driver has no such function. So if the sound side times out, the LED will remain on, and next time you push the momentary switch (I'm assuming--I haven't actually tested it), the LED will turn off, and the sound will turn on! If that happens, you could just let it time-out again, and then the Hasbro board and Corbin board will be back in sink, but if you don't want to do that, the only solution I can think of is a kill switch, either in a recharge port or as a separate "push-to-break" reset button. (As if this thing won't have enough switches--four at last count--as is.)