My First MHS Saber

[H@rrY89]

Hi Guys

Im planning on building a new saber soon (pay check comes next week :D) and ive come up with a design but im not sure if its feasible..

anyways here it is:
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/9998/lightsaberdesign2copyae3.th.jpg (http://img292.imageshack.us/my.php?image=lightsaberdesign2copyae3.jpg)

and heres the list of parts i used:
MHS Blade Holder 8
Pommel 5
Button head Screw/Rivet x2
Covertech
Ribbed Extension 1
MHS Double Female 3 Inch
MHS Double Female 4 Inch
Double Male Connection
MPP Clamp
8x Black O-Rings

Should i Install a LED Heat Sink as well or just leave it for the time being?

The colour will probally be a Royal Blue, and i would like to get it with a soundboard if it is at all possiable?

[chase]

That's a good looking concept. The only thing I will say is you might as well get a double threaded hilt style 1 instead of those double females, it will be the same length. You will need a switch to turn the saber on. How are you planning on doing that? You can put a tiny switch in the clamp, but it will take a bit of engineering. Also, if you get that double thread hilt style1 you won't have to get the double male connector. If you get a emitter, you won't have to buy a separate heatsink or anything, it will come with it. You also don't have to install it, the way the space inside the hilt is will hold the heatsink in place. Oh! one more thing- you might want to get a couple set screws in case you don't like that giant knob for a thumbscrew to hold the blade in. I have the same emitter and I put one hand right in those grooves and it provides perfect grip. If you have that thumbscrew, it will be painful. Soundboards are scarce and hard to come by unless you get a FX saber, gut it and steal the soundboard out of it.

[ArkaiHalon]

Great looking concept. What color blade you going for?

I agree with chase on ditching the two double females.
You can always have Tim do some custom work on it to make it look like
what you want.

as for the clamp, having just put one on my saber, i HIGHLY recommend going lower on the handle, as it really does get in the way.

as for the switch, if you use one of the othe rpommels, you can use a washer in the body to hold it. as seen here...http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=4070

[Darth_DevilGuy]

nice looking saber! are you planning sound? with only a 7 inch section with 1.25" ID it could get tight.

[H@rrY89]

Thanks for the reply's guys

The colour will be Royal Blue and i think for the time being ill get it installed without a soundboard, ill probably add a CF v3.0 or an UltraBoard when they come available.

Thanks for the idea about the double threaded hilt style 1 chase, ill definatley use that :D

now as for the activation switch i'm still deciding on where to put the little bugger, any suggestions?

[Dark Navel]

Hard to tell what switch you are going to use. If you are going to use a sliding switch you may want to moun it behind the bubble strip. I would either cut a small shallow square cut underneath one of the bubbles and glue it in place with a Marine epoxy as it dries relatively clear.
DO NOT use superglue!!
If you do you are going to ruin the bubblestrip because it will "haze" the plastic therefore ruining the look of the strip. I would also paint the black portion of the strip a chrome color. This will camoflage the switch somewhat when you are looking down at the bubblestrip.

Also, make sure that the bublestrip can "float" inside the groove of the clamp. You don't want to glue this portion, only glue the switch tab to the bubble strip. The slider switch will only move as far as the switch tab will move within the switch itself, about 1/8". You would bearly notice that the buble strip movement.
You may also want to consider making a small box that would be behind the bubble strip. I would use aluminum tape behind the bubble strip. Now under that you would have a small box that would accept the switch. This would then be glued underneath the aluminum tape. When I have a chance I will try to draw up some diagrams for you.

DN

[Hasid Lafre]

you oculd use a vader mr control box. I got a ocmpleat one sitting here.

[H@rrY89]

well for the activation switch i wouldn't mind it being a slider on the activation box, by the way i forgot to mention that instead of using the bubbles on the activation box i will use a circuit board (like on Lukes ESB)

does anyone know if Tim will do the switch in the activation box??

[Dark Navel]

You could either go with my thoughts like Hasid said go with a vader clamp. You would have to ask Tim if he would make one for you...I know he's swamped right now but it wouldn't hurt. I have seen what you are looking for on the web but I would not rather not say in respect to Tim.

[B5813]

Did you already buy these parts a long time back because I still don't see the ribbed extensions back in the store?

[H@rrY89]

no i havent bought the parts yet but i plan to buy the parts when the ribbed extensions get in.

in short, where in the same boat :D