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Count Malik
02-01-2008, 10:49 PM
Hello all, just got an e-mail from Erv' saying CF 3.0 will be a sum of 60 boards and will be released at the biggining of March. So this got me thinking, I decided to start saving for one. But I already bought everything to build a basic saber which will be powerd by a stock AA battery pack for a green K2. Well I need to know when I buy a CF were to stick the board and the speaker since I don't have rechargable batteries? Novastar said to put the speaker above the battery pack, but how and were would I mount the CF board and the speaker? Thanks.:confused:

vortextwist
02-02-2008, 07:19 AM
I know erv said to mount the board as low in the saber as possible but you could put it anywhere, it may just not respond as well. My suggestion is to invest in a rechargable pack and recharge port.

sekrogue1985
02-02-2008, 07:26 AM
I know erv said to mount the board as low in the saber as possible but you could put it anywhere, it may just not respond as well. My suggestion is to invest in a rechargable pack and recharge port.

in agreement with this i have my speaker mounted in the pummel of my saber. then the board which half of it sitting on the battery pack which is have a cooling wrap and stuff that erv said i should use. the board is very low in the hilt and yeah. though i've yet toget a recharge port and what not. I can only find them at erv's site and with the exchange rate as it is not worth it right now. man the US dollar is sucking some hard right now. :(

Dark Navel
02-02-2008, 11:00 AM
Quick question: What are the dimensions of his board?

valeon
02-02-2008, 11:59 AM
http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/article_info.php?articles_id=31

Jay-gon Jinn
02-02-2008, 01:54 PM
in agreement with this i have my speaker mounted in the pummel of my saber. then the board which half of it sitting on the battery pack which is have a cooling wrap and stuff that erv said i should use. the board is very low in the hilt and yeah. though i've yet toget a recharge port and what not. I can only find them at erv's site and with the exchange rate as it is not worth it right now. man the US dollar is sucking some hard right now. :(

You can't find a recharge port except at erv's site? Am I understanding this correctly? If so, look here:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-Power-Jack-P37.aspx

and here:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-plug-adapter-for-smart-charger-P36.aspx

And for the charger here:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/24V-72V-Nimh-Smart-charger-P145.aspx

sekrogue1985
02-02-2008, 02:33 PM
You can't find a recharge port except at erv's site? Am I understanding this correctly? If so, look here:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-Power-Jack-P37.aspx

and here:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-plug-adapter-for-smart-charger-P36.aspx

And for the charger here:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/24V-72V-Nimh-Smart-charger-P145.aspx

lolol I was typing in the wrong search stuff lol but yeah it was me just neglecting things aka brain fried and kinda lazy college is a bitch getting your MS is a bitch sorry i'm an idiot hahaha back tot he books

Count Malik
02-02-2008, 04:29 PM
I just emailed Erv' and he said to use the small li-ion battery pack for my green K2 and to drill holes in the pommel for the speaker. And I guss I'll put the board lowest possible. Thanks for that.

Novastar
02-03-2008, 05:07 PM
For the record, many types of ports can be used for a recharge port... it all depends on your wiring. Wiring for a kill + recharge port can get tricky, but a simple "charge only" port is just positive and negative. You can make the jack and port anything you like. Just make sure to get + and - right for both ends. That helps. :)

As to a speaker--you can put it anywhere you like, my suggestion was to help facilitate removal of batteries. However, yes, I prefer recharge ports, which then do not limit where you put your batteries. In fact, you can then put them wherever you like.

As to placing CF here or there... it is not as big a deal as some people make it out to be. In fact, I would challenge anyone to be able to put CF in a non-functional (or poorly functional) place inside a hilt that is meant as a single saber. Why is it hard to screw it up? Well, you can RARELY get CF to lie underneath your "main" or forward hand on the hilt--therefore, you will rarely prohibit the motion sensing and torque.

Now granted--do you want it 1/4" below the fulcrum point in your saber? No. But even a few inches below the fulcrum can and will produce good motion sensing results.

FINALLY, (as if this isn't long enough)... you can suit your "sensitivity" settings in the CF parameters to how far you've placed CF from the central fulcrum point. I have slightly "amped up" my settings for the Flange III sabers because the CF board is NOT at the "bottom" or pommel of the hilt. In fact, it is about 4.5" to 5" down the hilt, in the center of the entire thing. If CF "wasn't any good" in the center of the hilt... the Flange III sabers would not respond very well now would they. Judge for yourself in the videos if you haven't seen them:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=2iaDEhfd4yo
http://youtube.com/watch?v=7OQRAbt5z2Q
http://youtube.com/watch?v=vp8GI7jz1tk

Most of you have seen these, but... I just wanted people to know... IT'S OK TO PUT CF IN A BUNCH OF PLACES!! :)

The only possible place that CF might be "bad" would be directly in the center of a STAFF hilt. Even then, it would only be for "helicopter spins" or whatever. If that.

xwingband
02-03-2008, 05:17 PM
True, true, but card access is a hell of a lot easier if you put it at the bottom and accessable.

Novastar
02-03-2008, 06:42 PM
The SD cards for CF in the Flange III sabers I've made are accessible by removing 4 screws. It doesn't affect anything else because of the way I designed it. It's not as "easy" as unscrewing a threaded pommel, but... it really isn't rocket science. It takes about 20 seconds. :)

Again, it all depends on YOUR DESIGN. Additionally, I've found that once the sound fonts are loaded into your SD card (and you're happy with them, with 90% of bugs worked out)... there isn't much necessity to change them out.

Granted, it has taken me a LOT of troubleshooting, tweaking, and maneuvering on the fonts.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
02-04-2008, 07:29 PM
Hey gang! I thought this was an appropriate thread to ask for help.

Here's a sneak preview of the saber I'm working on:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/brass_saber_2.jpg

With the blade holder, it will be about 12" long. I used a 1.25" aluminum vacuum cleaner tube as a chassis to hold all the guts. I have some copper pipe that fits nicely over the brass sink tube that I will use for some interesting decorative touches. I'll be using a green K2. I haven't decided what I'm going to do for grips.

If I put a CF in the bottom of the hilt, I can access the SD card very easily by unscrewing the nut. The nut will hold a speaker grill. I'll put the speaker somewhere in the middle, and make sound holes forward of the speaker too. I'll put in a recharge/kill port, and if I can, perhaps a PLI.

Anyway, on to my question. I'm trying to figure out which battery pack to use. Tim sells a 4.8V 4AA NiMH 2600 mAh pack, and a 7.2V 6AA 2600 mAh pack. It says that the 7.2V pack will not fit in a 1.25" tube, but since I cut half of the tube out, it should fit. Is there any benefit to the higher voltage pack if they both have the same mAh rating? Which pack should I use? What's the best setup to make it all fit?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Lord Maul
02-04-2008, 07:39 PM
The 7.2V pack will last longer. However, a 4.8V pack will run a good 2 hours with a K2, so you'll be fine.

Count Malik
02-04-2008, 09:14 PM
can't wait til CF is back in stock but it also gives me time to get my rechageable battery pack and recharge port all set up. this CF saber will be fully MHS parts, (don't know how to post pics.) I'm using blade holder #1, MPS pommel #5, hilt #4, and a thin-neck "choke point". w/ TCSS battle blade. It will run a green K2. Also if any body can tell me what good aux. swiches work good that would be great.