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View Full Version : Can someone help me with this wiring?.



Dandura
01-31-2008, 11:22 AM
Alright I know that most people don't wire a lux V to a MR Board for various reasons, but as my funds are limited I can't get a CF v3.0, so this is the best i can do for now. I want to run it all with the push of one button ( if at all possible), and if possible incorporate the kill switch style recharge port. I have a Darth maul MR Board and will be getting the BuckPuck 700mA and Battery Pack soon. I will post a schematic and If someone can help me solve it it would be absolutely fantastic. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Blank Schematic.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2056/2232632212_4c4fa00caa_o.jpg

The Updated one.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2358/2233441602_dc876d7214_o.jpg

Hasid Lafre
01-31-2008, 12:03 PM
The speaker shares a common + with the MR board. That much I can tell ya.

Dandura
01-31-2008, 12:43 PM
alright thanks Hasid I thought so, i could probably try to figure this out, but I don't wan't all my money to blow up in my face.

Er Dan Gill
01-31-2008, 01:35 PM
I might be wrong, but I think you will need to resistor the battery pack down before going to the MR sound board, or you might get the magic smoke. I think I read the most an MR SB can handle is 6V, but I'm not 100% sure. You could probably use a DPDT switch to control both the LED and SB with one switch, if I'm correct.

Dandura
01-31-2008, 02:17 PM
Thats what the 5 Volt regulator is for it drops up to 32 Volts down to 5 Volts.

goldsaberwarrior
01-31-2008, 02:22 PM
If you're using a buckpuck I can't see why you would need to resistor the bat pack down. About the only things I see that could go wrong would be the fact that you're using a luxV. I would recommend putting another buckpuck in the saber if it will fit. Reason being 2 of them can handle the voltage better than just one can. Other than that I see nothing wrong with what you have thus far.

Ghostbat
01-31-2008, 02:26 PM
I have to admit I completely missed the regulator when I looked at the images :) Which regulator are you using?

Er Dan Gill
01-31-2008, 02:32 PM
If you're using a buckpuck I can't see why you would need to resistor the bat pack down.

Because the MR SB's cant handle the 7.2 volts from his battery back.


Thats what the 5 Volt regulator is for it drops up to 32 Volts down to 5 Volts.

:oops: Oops, I completly missed that in your schematic, sorry.

goldsaberwarrior
01-31-2008, 02:36 PM
I didn't see the 7.2 volts it showed on his pack. I see what his prob is now. Like is said before throw another buckpuck in there or a resistor, preferably a buckpuck. Using 2 of them should get his voltage down. If that still doesn't you may have to use a resistor with the two buckpucks. Like I said before do it however you think it will work best but that's what I recommend anyway.

Er Dan Gill
01-31-2008, 03:02 PM
I'm still pretty sure you wont be able to use the TCSS switch you have on the diagram. A DPDT like this one in the shop: http://http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DPDT-Slide-Switch--P46.aspx would work better. Because you need to wire the sound board and the buck puck as two separate circuits. As far as the regulator, I've never used one so I can't help there. But on the buck puck the red and black go to the battery, with the switch inbetween, and the blue(-) and white(+) go to the LED.

Dandura
01-31-2008, 03:06 PM
Well on a different forum thread a saw this setup recommended by Xwing, Greytale, and Vortex i think too. The said that 2 pucks would be less effective and more of a hassle. Plus it is more efficient to use the regulator to drop any voltage to the MR Board to 5 Volts. The Buckpuck is to drive my Lux V at max brightness, because I don't have a CF or any other proper driver for it. They are going to be hooked up to the 7.2 volt battery pack (rechargable NIMH) which will have a Kill Switch style recharge port (if possible) connected for recharging. When the dummy is not in the port I should be able to activate the saber with the push of one button. I've figured out the speaker with Hasids help, and now all I need to know is what wires go where for the rest of the items. I think it could be described as a single circut setup, but I know not.

Er Dan Gill
01-31-2008, 03:35 PM
I used this topic to wire up my first recharge port:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=2235
Followed it, and no problems at all. I've never used a maul board before though so I don't want to give you the wrong info if it's different from the boards I have used, I used this pic for the boards that I have wired up:

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x170/ErDanGill/MRwiringdiagram.jpg

Sorry but best I can come up with for ya, as I've never tried your combination of parts.

Dandura
01-31-2008, 07:25 PM
Alright using this setup for the kill switch from erv I came up with this diagram, which most likely has flaws, and there are still a few wires missing. I can't figure out where to send the negative from the board (to the kill switch board negative? or would that fry it?) and I don't know what the ground tab is for on the regulator.

Heres the kill switch setup by erv.
http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/RechargePort.jpg

And heres my crazy wiring so far, I fear I've created a monster.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2140/2234068580_62b7baa193_o.jpg

Ghostbat
02-01-2008, 11:14 AM
One thing I see looking at your diagram is that you appear to be bypassing your switch for the boards power. This would mean you had one switch for the sound (on the board) and one for the buckpuck. Not sure if that was your intent.

Also I'm not sure about the clash sensor going directly to the battery, I seem to recall both leads going to the board, but I will have to look again on that.

Jay-gon Jinn
02-01-2008, 01:15 PM
If it were me, I'd run the positive lead from the clash sensor to the positive output lead on the MR board. Idon't think the board will get the signal from the sensor if you don't. Also, with the switch wires for the board connected, the board will not play back the power down sound effect when you turn it off by killing the power to the board the way the switch is wired ...it'll just stop making the hum, and go off.

Dandura
02-01-2008, 05:37 PM
I don't know in the maul conversion tutorial the blue went to the positive and the gray went to the board. If I have to use a slide switch to get it all working then thats fine I guess. I just like the button way better, plus the slide switch is tacky for a saber, I wanted to just have one button activation. It would sure be nice if some of more of the pros were to help me on this.

Jay-gon Jinn
02-02-2008, 01:57 PM
I don't know in the maul conversion tutorial the blue went to the positive and the gray went to the board. .

The gray was already on the board in the maul conversion as it's the neg for the sensor...the blue is shown being attached to the positive lead on the board's led outputs because it's the pos for the sensor...putting it in with the battery positive may not work, because the board recognizes the clash sensor as a momentary switch....but it's your saber, wire it how you want.

Dandura
02-02-2008, 08:57 PM
Oh ok I see I didn't realize that it was going to the board as well. I know it looks crazy the way I'm trying to do this, but we could turn out a nice discovery here. Now if the positive is using the output tab on the regulator then where is the negative supposed to go from the MR board. And what I am trying to do with the one switch is get it to cut the batteries power to the rest of the electronics, like a dam. when I push the button the power is released into the rest of the electronics. But if that ABSOLUTELY will not work, then could someone tell me what to do with the slide switch. Also since you said the sound will not work properly without the slide switch attached to the switch wires, would it be possible to leave it attached and in the on position permanently so that when the main power is activated it would play the sound. I was messing with the sound card earlier and i found if the switch is on when you connect the battery module, it still plays the sounds.