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Darth_DevilGuy
01-28-2008, 05:36 PM
OK so it's time to order some parts from Tim and get started building my first saber. So I'd really appreciate it if the more experienced sabersmiths here would look over the list of parts I plan on using and point out things I might have missed or don't need.

Parts List:
-Electronics
Red Lux III LED
Hasbro soundboard (have this from a Vader FX)
Corbin's 3w momentary Driver
SPST Momentary switch black button
Premium Speaker
Luxeon Collimator Lens 5°
Edit: add lens holder
Edit: 4AA battery holder

-Hilt
MHS 2in female double threaded connector
MHS Hilt style 2
MPS Pommel Style 4
MPS Insert Style 4 (with machined speakerholes if possible)
MHS Speaker Mount (planning a resonance chamber, don't know If I need this)
Screw on LED blade emitter Style 1
8 black O-rings
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD
Edit: Double ended male threaded connector

-Tools
6/32 tap and drill set.
Tap handle

Stinky Bantha
01-28-2008, 05:44 PM
Only thing it looks like you're missing is a battery holder/ rechargeable pack and a double male connector or gender changer if you're planning on using both the 2in female and the hilt style 2.

As for the resonance chamber comment, the pommel itself should provide enough of a chamber. I've used it before, and it sounds great. The speaker mount fits in the threaded area like the heatsink for the led, so it's not going to be at the very end of the pommel.

Lord Maul
01-28-2008, 05:46 PM
You also need a blade retention screw. That would be threaded either 8-32 or 10-32. I have no idea why you'd need a 6-32 tap.

Darth_DevilGuy
01-28-2008, 06:03 PM
I have a set of style one claws I bought from someone else here, that has a 6/32 hole, so I was planing on drilling strait down on the blade holder and using that to hold both the blade and the claw mount.

I'll add the battery pack and the double male connector which I had planned but forgot to include.

Lord Maul
01-28-2008, 06:06 PM
The mounting hole for the claw mount is unthreaded. You can put any size screw into the mounting hole ;)

Darth_DevilGuy
01-28-2008, 06:09 PM
ah that's good to know, I'll figure out what thumbscrew to use then.

Edit: anyone know how long the screw will need to be, I'm assuming the standard ones will be too short and the half incher will be too long

vortextwist
01-28-2008, 07:31 PM
are you putting the 2 inch section at the bottom? The Male/male connector has a smaller ID then the ribbed sections so I would make sure you batt pack fits through it, unless your using the whole 2 inch piece as a speaker resonance chamber, then your batt/board must all fit in the shilt style 2.

BhujangiJedi
01-28-2008, 08:57 PM
A few things I wish I had included in my order:

heat shrink tubing
some extra wire
blade screws - a 10-32 1/8" set screw would disappear nicely into the hilt. The best I could find at Home Depot is 3/8", which sticks out a bit, but I managed to get 1/4" screws at Ace that sit flush with the outside of the blade holder (style 3). Tim's thumb screws are pretty nice looking as well.


Also, if you might be swapping out LEDs, you'll probably want a quick connect.

Hasid Lafre
01-28-2008, 11:06 PM
Yeah your gonna have a space issue. Everything is gonna be crammed in the 7" hilt section.

I would have tim make a style hilt without the switch holes, Then have tim make a 2" with the switch holes, Then put the 2" section up top and flip the style hilt around.

Same look just some more room up top for switches and wiring and the heatsink to sit right. your not gonna have much room for a resinance chamber this way thou.

Trust me situatin everything to sit inside a 7" sectin is a pain in the ***. (See tim we need regular 10" style hilt sections then we wont have this problem:P).

Darth_DevilGuy
01-29-2008, 08:26 PM
the way I have it planned is for the switch to be toward the emitter, never having seen the parts is driving me nuts because I can't know exactly how big everything is. I had planned to put switch driver batterys in the 7in hilt, and soundboard speaker and resonance chamber in the 2 inch extender.

vortextwist
01-29-2008, 09:15 PM
that's feasable as long as you go rechargable. or you will be twisting wires all day long.

Darth_DevilGuy
01-29-2008, 09:37 PM
hmm, where would I put the recharge port I wonder? otherwise I'd still be twisting wires alot.

Hasid Lafre
01-30-2008, 02:20 AM
I dont think your gonna be abel to put switches, drivers and a 4AA battery pack in a 7" section.

I had a hard time fitting everyting with my recharge port in pommel, battery pack and boards in a 7" section, Where was no room for a switch. I would suggest a AAA setup.

vortextwist
01-30-2008, 11:40 AM
Sid:
you didn't read very well, he's want's to basically do what I did on my latest saber. batteries up front and driver/speaker in the rear.

Darth develguy: yes but atleast you would only twist them one time instead of everytime you change batteries. Anywhere would be good for the recharge port as long as you have room between the male/male connector and the battery pack.

Hasid Lafre
01-30-2008, 01:35 PM
I know but hes not gonna have any room for his switches unless he goes with a switch box.

Hes gonna add a 7" section with a m/m connector(which he will need even thou its not on his list) and a 2" section, the battery pack and boards are gonna be so cramed that Iamnto sure if the heatsink is gonna have a place to go.

He is not gonna have room for the switches near the bladeholder like he wants, they would have to go in the 2" section which he said he wants at the bottem.

vortextwist
01-30-2008, 02:23 PM
He'll need a 4 incher instead of the 2" to put the boards in the bottom. It could be done. Man I wish we had 10" sectioins :)

Darth_DevilGuy
01-30-2008, 03:15 PM
He'll need a 4 incher instead of the 2" to put the boards in the bottom. It could be done. Man I wish we had 10" sectioins :)

seconded, I'm going to dig up the render I made so you guys can see what I'm planing, I think there's some misunderstanding of how the sections are going to be laid out.

Darth_DevilGuy
01-30-2008, 03:34 PM
http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/233/saberdesigndrafthr0.th.png (http://img238.imageshack.us/my.php?image=saberdesigndrafthr0.png)
ok there's the image will the heatsink interfere with the switch placement?

Er Dan Gill
01-30-2008, 03:51 PM
I doubt the switch will interfere with the heat sink. If
by some chance it does, just flip your center section around so that the switch is closer to the base or pommel side of the saber.

Hasid Lafre
01-30-2008, 03:55 PM
No the heatsink will not interfear wih the switch. But the boards and battery pack wont fit with the switch where its at.

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/5246/ddgpj6.th.png (http://img166.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ddgpj6.png)

I would do the one on the right and put the switche in the 2" section and leave the 7" section to house the battery pack and boards. for something like this I would use a AAA battery pack. If the m/m connector had the same id as say a ribbed section then you would have no problem.

Battery pack take up about 4, boards will take up 1.5" or so of space, the threads take up 1" total and your left with a smidgen of space for wires and such.

Boards wont fit ontop of the AA battery pack so that is out of the question.

The inhilt space from the end of the threads to the back of the switch is 4.5" long roughly.

Darth_DevilGuy
01-30-2008, 05:11 PM
the problem I see there is it won't leave room for a resonance chamber, which I'm planing on having to make the Hasbro board sound a little better, I wish I had some info on how big each piece is, I'm having a hard time visualizing how much space each part will take.

Er Dan Gill
01-30-2008, 06:20 PM
Get the MHS parts first. I made the mistake of getting a bunch of parts for my saber before I got my MHS parts, only to find out they wouldn't work with my combo. Nice thing is I've got a bunch of spare parts. Get the saber parts first, then "measure twice and cut once".

Darth_DevilGuy
01-30-2008, 06:31 PM
I'm more concerned with the size of the electronics the MHS parts I can calculate the size from the info I have but precise mesurements for the other electronics involved and for what parts are threaded and where things have to go is scarce.

Hasid Lafre
01-31-2008, 06:18 AM
Your eletronics are gonnna take up the whole 7" section.

goldsaberwarrior
01-31-2008, 02:47 PM
Looks good. Don't know if you know the difference or not but where you would be using a momentary driver and a momentary switch that simply means as long as you hold the button down the saber will be on. If you use a latching driver with a latching switch you only have to push it once and it'll stay on and to turn it off push it again. If you want to you could do like I did and use a latching switch with a momentary driver. You would have to push it twice to get it to stay on and twice to get it to turn off but it gives some extra security against accidental activation or deactivation. If you push it once it will still be taking in current and using energy so if you do it the way I did remember to hit it twice.

Darth_DevilGuy
01-31-2008, 02:54 PM
I did not know that, I was under the impression that with the hasbro board I'd need to go momentary for ease of use, is there a way to run a setup with a hasbro that I don't need to hold the button down with?

Er Dan Gill
01-31-2008, 03:44 PM
You should use a momentary switch with a hasbro board, you just tap the switch once and it turns on and stays on, tap it again and out it goes. With the switch out of the way, close to the base of the hilt in my humble opinion, there is no worries of accidental shut off. And its simpler to wire.

Darth_DevilGuy
01-31-2008, 04:33 PM
I'm only planning on using the hasbro for the sound, I'm getting a corbin for the LED, will that do the only on while held down thing with a momentary switch/board setup?

Er Dan Gill
01-31-2008, 04:48 PM
Corbins board has two options, one is latching, one is momentary. Get the momentary, and you will not have to hold the switch down. This thread has some good info for you on using Corbins board and a Hasbro SB :
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3940

Hasid Lafre
01-31-2008, 04:51 PM
Corbins board has two options, one is latching, one is momentary. Get the momentary, and you will not have to hold the switch down. This thread has some good info for you on using Corbins board and a Hasbro SB :
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3940

You mean the latching corbin board? I was also under the impression that hasbro boards that are momentary needed(when pared with corbins) needed to be a momentary also.

Er Dan Gill
01-31-2008, 05:01 PM
I thought thats what I wrote. Sorry sometimes I don't explain things as well as I should, mostly why I just lurk, but I took an un-planned vacation so I am absolutely going out of my mind. I can't wait to go back to work on Monday.

Darth_DevilGuy
01-31-2008, 05:44 PM
so let me get this strait, a momentary corbin board, with a momentary switch, will only remain on as long as the switch is depressed, so a dpdt switch is probably best there, which is fine I'd like to have that kind of switch so I can disguise it with some sort of button or more elaborate cover.

second would the DPDT switch recqire extra machining? and how big is the one in the store?

Ghostbat
01-31-2008, 05:54 PM
I can't find it in the forums and search isn't helping, but there's an IC that takes the signal from a momentary switch and acts as a latching switch. It adds a couple parts and some more soldering but can let you use a momentary switch with mixed hardware.

Ghostbat
01-31-2008, 05:57 PM
so let me get this strait, a momentary corbin board, with a momentary switch, will only remain on as long as the switch is depressed, so a dpdt switch is probably best there, which is fine I'd like to have that kind of switch so I can disguise it with some sort of button or more elaborate cover.

second would the DPDT switch recqire extra machining? and how big is the one in the store?

As I understand the momentary Corbin board is set up so one press of the momentary is On then the next push is Off, just like a Hasbro (or CF I think?).

Lord Maul
01-31-2008, 05:57 PM
That's correct Ghostbat.

CF can actually use momentary or latching. You can set it to either.

Er Dan Gill
01-31-2008, 05:59 PM
As I understand the momentary Corbin board is set up so one press of the momentary is On then the next push is Off, just like a Hasbro (or CF I think?).

Thats what I thought too. Maybe I've just been reading too much today:D

Darth_DevilGuy
01-31-2008, 06:13 PM
wow this whole deal has upped my postcount by like 15 lol, I'll probably just go with the momentary switch then, next thing I need to figure out is the wiring diagram for the hasbro.

Jedi-Loreen
01-31-2008, 08:26 PM
You can always cut down a long screw. ;)

It works even better if you have the right size nut to fit the threads. Put on the nut, cut the screw to the length you want, and the nut automatically cleans up the threads you've just cut when you unscrew it. :)

goldsaberwarrior
02-01-2008, 01:52 PM
I haven't messed with hasbro boards in a while so I had forgotten how "tempermental" they can be. Yes since it's hasbro use a momentary switch. Man I need to reed slower. Anyway just post if you ever need us to help you with this.

Darth_DevilGuy
02-05-2008, 11:46 AM
ok change of plans, happened on a cheap SW-616 (the crappy MHS like one) so going with an MR soundboard, that means switghing to a latching setup. I'll come up with a revised parts list soon, thanks to everyone who posted to help me out, you guy's have saved me tons of headache:D

Darth_DevilGuy
02-05-2008, 04:16 PM
Parts List:
-Electronics
Red Lux III LED
MR soundboard (SW-616)
Corbin's 3w latching Driver
Push on/push off switch with black button (latching)
Premium Speaker
Luxeon Collimator Lens 5°
Lens holder
4AAA battery holder

-Hilt
MHS 2in female double threaded connector
MHS Hilt style 2
MPS Pommel Style 4
MPS Insert Style 4 (with machined speakerholes if possible)
MHS Speaker Mount (planning a resonance chamber, don't know If I need this)
Screw on LED blade emitter Style 1
8 black O-rings
TCSS Style Battle blade
Double ended male threaded connector
Gender changer (if the parts don't fit I'll use this to extend interior space, the way I have the hilt planned It shouldn't be put under too much stress.)
8/32 1/2 inch thumbscrew (used to attach the claw mount and as blade screw, I'll probably have to cut this down.)

Novastar
02-06-2008, 03:43 PM
Sounds pretty good so far. Planning is like 50% (or more) of the work in my opinion. I spent months tweaking and perfecting the Flange III designs until I was settled on what would both satisfy my needs AND work spacially. I even used "mock" parts of the correct size to make sure everything fit in the ACTUAL hilt parts made/used--not just in my drawings/measurements.

You also often must make sacrifices when it comes to space... but if you don't need/want a saber hilt that is 10" or 11" with a tight choke point... there is no reason that you cannot fit all sorts of great things.

Sounds like you'll be just fine. Go for it!

Darth_DevilGuy
02-06-2008, 04:25 PM
heh yeah I've put more time into planning this saber than I usually do into painting an entire warhammer army. also check your PM's on fx sabers dude I sent you something regarding your call for help on BOP III seeing as I'm right in your area.

Darth_DevilGuy
02-07-2008, 03:30 PM
ok, the transports are away!

my order went through, with a couple of extra's like wire and heatshrink tubing hopefully I'll start construction sometime next week, being all MHS I don't anticipate this taking too long, just some minor soldering and mounting to do, the worst part will be gutting my 616 I think.

Hasid Lafre
02-07-2008, 04:19 PM
A BFH will help take it apart.

Darth_DevilGuy
02-07-2008, 04:25 PM
whats a BFH? I probably know what it is I just don't recognize the acronym

Hasid Lafre
02-07-2008, 04:30 PM
Big blank hammer.

Darth_DevilGuy
02-07-2008, 04:36 PM
ahhhh, yeah got plenty of those, although knocking out the pins would require a little more finesse I think.

Lord Maul
02-07-2008, 04:40 PM
whats a BFH? I probably know what it is I just don't recognize the acronym

Only the staple of every sabersmith's workbench.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/aluke_2006/Funny%20Pictures/BFH9000.jpg

Arm on Fire
02-07-2008, 09:03 PM
Hey Darth_Devilguy, Exellent breakdown of sw-616 here
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3398&page=4
have fun ;)

Darth_DevilGuy
02-07-2008, 09:29 PM
oh yeah, I've been watching that thread, I now have two 616's and they'll probably both end up as soundboards for my sabers, although the pommels and emitters are worth getting as well.