Affixing a Mirror to the Cap

[Tom]

So I bought the Thin Blade shouldered End Caps, and the small round mirrors.

I used Weld-On #3 to attach the caps to the tubes, but I also used it to attach the Mirror to the End Cap. That part was a mistake. The mirror came off after I had rolled my film and gotten it into the blade.

What's the best substance to use to attach the mirror to the end cap?

[Do-Clo]

So I bought the Thin Blade shouldered End Caps, and the small round mirrors.

I used Weld-On #3 to attach the caps to the tubes, but I also used it to attach the Mirror to the End Cap. That part was a mistake. The mirror came off after I had rolled my film and gotten it into the blade.

What's the best substance to use to attach the mirror to the end cap?


I use a thin layer of clear silicone rubber on the back of the mirror to hold it in place

[jpbeck]

How about using a hot glue gun?

[Lord Maul]

Hot glue would break easily under impact, I think.

[Arm on Fire]

Im with do-clo, silicone sticks very well to smooth surfaces and will remain "rubbery" and absorb the forces of impact without breaking its bond.

[xwingband]

Silicon glue is kind of messy...

When I did deal with mirrors like in MR blades I'd put double sided tape on it. Not the thin kind, exterior mounting tape variety.

Maybe in the future or if you still can I use the semi mirrored mylar from electronics packages as my "mirror". I cut two discs and superglue them on. I let them sit though... I don't want the superglue to craze and the best way to avoid that is good ventilation.

[DACOTA]

Dont use hot glue, it comes off after a few hits. I have found Gorilla glue to work the best, you just need a very thin layer because it expands to about three times the size of what you put on, but I'll tell you from experience the stuff doesnt let go, and since its inside, the slight yellowish tint that the glue has wont show.

[Pullo]

I used the plastic mirror from a parrot toy I picked up from a pet store!!! yeah i know weird, but it fitted so well. Then it was glued into place with epoxy resin, holds really well and has stood up to some hard dueling.

[Novastar]

Reflective tape is excellent. A roll of it will probably last you for like 80,000 generations of saber builders (heheh), and cost maybe $10.

It's tape, so it's sticky... ... ... uh, that's pretty obvious Novastar.

Anyway, you just cut out a little circle and slap it on there. Works pretty well for me. The sabers look pretty evenly lit to me.

[Corbin_Das]

Hi guys.
I thought I'd chime in and mention what I've found to work. Novastar is right about the tape. The thing I prefer to use is mirrored window tint. It allows a bit of light to pass through so you don't get a dark spot on the tip. It's self adhesive too. I've used it for several years now and it's served me well.
If you go to a scrapbooking store, you can buy hole cutters for paper. You can get them in star shapes, wavy line or just plain circles (which is what I get). Lay out the reflective film on the table and punch yourself out some reflective disks. Just peel off the protective paper backing and press onto the bottom of the tip before attaching it to the blade. Pretty straight forward.
For the combat weight blades, I prefer about a 1/2" disk, while the display blades get a 3/4" disk. I find that keeping the disks from going all the way to the edge of the interior of the polycarb tube, you minimize tip flare. That's what I do anyway.


Corbin

[Novastar]

Additionally, if you simply don't COMPLETELY cover the inner part of the tip, enough light will spill through to the outside part of the tip without being TOO ridiculous, nor just losing the desired reflective effect altogether.

Experiment as needed, but... keep the tips simple--it helps. :)