View Full Version : K2 to MR BOARD?

01-24-2008, 02:25 PM
I am sure that somewhere in the forums this has been posted SEVERAL TIMES. But if thats true it should probably be stickied any how, and I tried the search engine several times but it seems it can't read things like K2, LUXIII, LUXV, etc. It is abbreviation challenged. So anyway, I wanted to know if someone had information on how to wire a K2 Kit (white, 4AAA battery pack) to a MR Board (Maul Specifically) with the least amount of difference possible from the LUX3 Conversion (as in similar to the wiring of the LUX3 conversion), or if I need a extra part what should I get??? This is for my little brothers lightsaber. Any help is greatly appreciated.


01-24-2008, 02:35 PM
You don't have to do a darn thing different if you don't care that it's not being maxed. It's hardly brighter that way, but it's not different.

Otherwise you need to use a relay or something like Erv's extender to get things to the max.

Honestly it's a waste though... get a Seoul or Cree (maybe even the new tffc K2) and that'll do loads better without needin anything special.

01-24-2008, 02:55 PM
Thanks Xwing, although its a bit too late as a already purchased the parts, but as I said it's for my little brother so it matters not if it's not as bright, I just remembered actually that the K2's are low voltage like the LUX3's...Doh!

01-24-2008, 04:06 PM

This is all I recieved, they are both like this. How can I take this appart to wire it to my K2 and how would I do that? Thnx

01-24-2008, 04:14 PM
you'll have to get the board out the plastic casing which, if it's anything like the vader board, will be a little bit of a pain when you try to get the pins out. the mr lux3 conversion tutorial aught to help you.


01-30-2008, 09:42 PM
I do not have this female connector from the blade, as I have no blade, but I do have the clash sensor. This is what I am talking about...


Would i be able to just solder wire leads directly from the male plugs in the same order/fashion as the wires coming from the female connector to the blade. What i mean is to create the same wiring pattern directly on the male plug. would that work? And if so what gauge of wire would you guys recommend?

Here is what I am referring to when i say male plug/connector...


Lord Maul
01-30-2008, 09:56 PM
You can do that. You need to be careful not to get any bridges, but it has been done.

01-30-2008, 10:53 PM
Alright thanks maul, by bridges you of course mean that the solder on each plug should not touch the solder on the other plugs correct?

Lord Maul
01-30-2008, 11:01 PM
Yup. A solder bridge is when two contact points are bridged with solder. That is very BAD ;)

01-31-2008, 12:54 PM
I can replace the slide switch with my Push on/off switch correct? And I'm using a K2 so I should get a power Xtender to properly power it off the MR right?

Lord Maul
01-31-2008, 03:31 PM
You can replace the slider. Just make sure the pushbutton is latching.

I haven't ever used a power Xtender, so I can't help ya there.

01-31-2008, 04:03 PM
I measured the output of the board and it's right in the range that will trigger the xtender... so from the other that tried it and that it SHOULD work.

I ordered three today with some drivers so I'll confirm whenever they arrive. :) If it does I'll be using them for sure.

02-12-2008, 08:22 AM
Hey x-Wing just a silly question, what is an Xtender? I have not heard of this yet.

02-12-2008, 10:11 AM
It's an add-on device Erv made for his CF board that is meant to power more auxillary LEDs than is possible with the main board alone. Essentially it's almost a relay. I'm hoping it will work as it will probably be more reliable than the traditional relays.

02-12-2008, 11:43 AM
I have completed the saber with little trouble, thanks for all the help guys. It still retains all the sounds when using the latching switch wired in place of the slide, though the K2 isn't being driven properly so it's kinda dull, but oh well its for my brother so I care not.

02-12-2008, 01:29 PM
I would be interested in knowing how well the xtender works as far as maxing an LED off of a driver that isn't giving it what it wants... After you try it, keep us posted Xwing :)

02-12-2008, 02:48 PM
I would be interested in knowing how well the xtender works as far as maxing an LED off of a driver that isn't giving it what it wants... After you try it, keep us posted Xwing :)

The extender acts like a relay for the CF board. It lets you directly tap the batteries to drive the extra LEDs.

So with an MR I'm hoping it'll trigger like a relay and then we could properly drive it or resistor the K2/whatever.

Count Malik
02-12-2008, 08:10 PM
Don't really care for K2s to much, just because they are hard to solder lol. But good information. It helps.

11-15-2008, 09:24 AM
Yup. A solder bridge is when two contact points are bridged with solder. That is very BAD ;)

ok i know its a bit off topic but its something that ive been thinking of.

If your doing a Lux conversion would it be ok to bridge the pins?
because like and inch down the road your joining the wires? i mean as long as the 2 that join the other part of the led and sensor don't bridge to the rest it should be ok no?

Lord Dottore Matto
11-15-2008, 01:56 PM
Bridge away if you want to. It will work fine.

11-16-2008, 09:23 AM
THANKS! i was pretty sure it would be ok but just felt like asking to be sure!