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Dark Navel
01-18-2008, 03:01 PM
O.K. I know there are tons of forums out there on how to connect Corbin’s board to a Hasbro soundboard but I wanted to start a new one since the forums that I have seen don't include pics of the new force action board. (this one came from a Vader)

Of course I wanted to bounce some questions off the pros how to do this since I am a bit technical but not as many others are.

Here's what I want to do...Connect the Hasbro force action board to Corbin's board but also have the ability to have the blade lock-up effect. I think I have use two different switches of two different types but there are so many out there I'm confusing myself what to use.

By the way, this is going into my own Dooku lightsaber that I am totally scratch building. I have all of the parts and it is going to be almost an exact replica of the movie version (Well as close as I can get it) I have sunk well over $120.00 into it and I just started building it.

I am going to de-solder the impact sensor and relocate it inside the hilt since it is very hard to activate it when it's soldered to the board as it is now. I have the time to do the hilt since I threw my back out and I am out of work.
:(

I know the Hasbro board isn't the best deal out there for a soundcard but it's better than nothing and all I can afford.

If someone would like to donate a "real" soundcard I would be more than happy to put it in the hilt and show it off to the community, youtube etc...;)

Anyway here's the card and what I have so far for connections..PLEASE feel free to modify as I am looking for your feedback.

Dark Navel

Darth_DevilGuy
01-18-2008, 04:24 PM
I'm looking into using that same board in my MHS custom, I think with a momentary switch you can pull it off with only one, though I could be wrong.

Dark Navel
01-18-2008, 04:37 PM
Yeah,

Not really sure either...I could have sworn I read about a DPDT dwitch for the power and the an momentary for the blade lock-up...

New board too so I'm not sure if anyone else has done it.

My advice it to desolder the clash sensor and locate near the base of the blade because it won't sense clashes very well based on it's location now.

Small sensor on a rigid board tucked in the middle of the hilt: effects will be negligible.

Dark Navel
01-18-2008, 04:42 PM
I was also told from a reputible scource that it can be done with a DPDT switch. These swiches are usually a toggle switch, rocker switch etc. so I don't know how a blabe lock-up effect would work with one switch like this.

Darth_DevilGuy
01-18-2008, 05:05 PM
you may need a second switch for the lockup yeah, I'm just driving mine with paired 700ma Buck Pucks.

Lord Maul
01-18-2008, 05:08 PM
That diagram looks sound to me.

You do need a DPDT switch. Make sure that you buy the MOMENTARY version of Corbin's driver. If you buy the latching driver, you'll be out 40 bucks.

Hasid Lafre
01-18-2008, 05:33 PM
If my computer worked I could get the diagram to use a momentary corbin board in latching form. but you have to have another switch to press to turn it off or something like that.

Lord Maul
01-18-2008, 05:39 PM
Hasid, Hasbro boards are all momentary. You want a momentary Corbin driver.

Dark Navel
01-18-2008, 06:31 PM
Lord M,

So I need 2 switches..OK. I need a DPDT switch for the power and a SPST for the Blade lock-up. Is that correct?

I guess I could use a sliding switch for the on/off, I can hide it under the red activation switch for Dooku's hilt. I will have to bury the SPST for the blade lock-up.

Any way someone can finish the diagram to show mw how to wire this puppy? I am also using a 3W red LED.

Lord Maul
01-18-2008, 06:33 PM
Yes, you'll need two switches. Both need to be momentary.

The wiring diagram you posted is fine. You'll just need to wire in the C&L button. It attaches to the Corbin board.

Dark Navel
01-18-2008, 06:47 PM
Got 2 momentary switches. Thats good because now I can plan where they should go on the hilt.

Well looks like the basements going to noisy tonight with the dremel, the heater knocking off the circuit breaker, my cursing when it happensetc. etc. etc.

Man that basement get cold...but it is my domain:D

strengthofrage
01-19-2008, 06:23 PM
***WARNING*** Possible nOObsauce question...

I also have this Vader Hasbro board waiting to go into a hilt and was planning on pairing it with the TCSS driver. I know it will require 2 momentary switches but I am confused about Lord Mauls post about a DPDT switch... I haven't seen one that is momentary... I want to make sure I get the right switch for mine but I was only going to use a regular momentary. I haven't used anything but a buckpuck so far so the driver is new to me. I understand why you would use a DPDT switch but didn't know you needed it with the momentary version of the driver... Is that right and is there DPDT momentary?

Lord Maul
01-19-2008, 07:39 PM
The hasbro sound card is a momentary board.

Corbin's driver comes in momentary and latching. If you were to get the latching version, it would be on only as long as you held the button down. The momentary version would work like the Hasbro board, staying on after one push of the button.

There are DPDT momentaries out on the market. Easiest to find are the tactile switches.

Did that answer your questions?

strengthofrage
01-19-2008, 08:50 PM
Yep, thanks Maul. So there are momentary DPDT switches and you do need one for the momentary Corbin board to separate the circuit from the Hasbro circuit and turn them both on at the same time.

...Now I just need to go find one!

Thanks again LM :)

DarthFender
01-19-2008, 11:20 PM
you don't need a DPDT switch. You can happily run both the corbin board and the hasbroboard from the same SPST swith (momentary) you'll need a second SPST monentary switch for the lockup, but the board does not have a lockup sound, so..... I have wired the lockup on the corbin board to the clash sensor on the hasbro board. Its a much better version of Flash on clash.

BTW for simplicity to any one buying these hasbro sabers just to get the board, they're all the same. Get the obi-wan, its easier to get the board and speaker out. Applies to the Force Action Lightsabers.

Dark Navel
01-20-2008, 12:37 PM
I can hook up my second button to the board so when I press it it will run the clash sound continuously correct?

Another question: How many batteries do I need to power this puppy. I have heard 4 -5 AA. Going to run Corbins board, the DV force action board with a 3W red and 2 momentaries.

I origially posted a pic but didn't finish it because I was confused on where to hook up the second switch on corbins board and the number of batteries needed. If someone could shed some light on this or help me on the pic I would apprciate it because I also need to make a custome battery pack to fit inside the hilt I'm building.

DN

DarthFender
01-20-2008, 06:28 PM
I can hook up my second button to the board so when I press it it will run the clash sound continuously correct?

Another question: How many batteries do I need to power this puppy. I have heard 4 -5 AA. Going to run Corbins board, the DV force action board with a 3W red and 2 momentaries.

I origially posted a pic but didn't finish it because I was confused on where to hook up the second switch on corbins board and the number of batteries needed. If someone could shed some light on this or help me on the pic I would apprciate it because I also need to make a custome battery pack to fit inside the hilt I'm building.

DN

No the clash sound is programed into the board and is a fixed length. If you hold the clash buttin down it will repeat the sound, but it sounds pretty dumb.

I have used 4 AA setup and a 4 AAA set up the only diference between those is hte runtime.
Also, I would not use 5 cell setup, you will be overdriving the soundboard.

Dark Navel
01-20-2008, 06:35 PM
DF,

Other than the obvious of getting the blade extend/retract from corbins board what will you achieve? When you hooked up the clash sensor to corbins board what was the end result other that getting rid of the annoying flashing that comes with the hasbro board?

Lord Maul
01-20-2008, 06:38 PM
In addition to the extend/retract effect, you get a clash and lockup effect. By holding down the second switch, the blade will shimmer like it is hitting another blade.

Dark Navel
01-20-2008, 06:39 PM
Forgot one more thing...The 4 battery seup is with the corbin and hasbro board correct? What if I don't use corbins board right now...should I limit it to 3 batteries???

Lord Maul
01-20-2008, 06:42 PM
3 batteries will work. 2 batteries would be easier to do, but you'll have a shorter run time. 4 batteries (wired in series for 6V) will fry a Hasbro board.

Dark Navel
01-20-2008, 07:03 PM
OK so>>>

If using corbins board will get the shimmering effect but the sound effect is cheesy (it wont cycle quickly enough in order to get a decent blade lock-up sound effect)...I will also use 4 batteries or 3 but with 3 the runtime will diminish.

If I don't use Corbins board limit it to 3 batteries because 4 will fry the hasbro soundboard. @ will work as well but again the runtime will be diminished.

I think I got it.

DarthFender
01-22-2008, 10:19 AM
DF,

Other than the obvious of getting the blade extend/retract from corbins board what will you achieve? When you hooked up the clash sensor to corbins board what was the end result other that getting rid of the annoying flashing that comes with the Hasbro board?

Sorry to take so long for this response. When I hooked up the clash sensor to the Corbin board's CL Port, I got the shimmer on clash that you would get when pressing the button. It does not change how the hasbro board plays the clash sound. The only issue I have with this setup id that the blade does not shimmer on every blade impact that make the sound. But, the beauty of it is you can still hook up a separate momentary button and get the same effect. I just wanted it to work automatically. (It does but only about 25% of the time.) You will still have to wire the button to get the lockup effect and the Hasbro board will not make a lockup sound It will make a "clash.......clash.......clash......clash" But in all its still a drastic improvement over the default hasbro lighting effects.

Maul, I hate to contradict you, but I have been running a hasbro w/o a corbin board for several months on a 4 AA battery pack and it has (As of yet) not released the Magic Smoke. I also have one running with the corbin board and hasbro with the 4 AA battery pack, no problems. Both of these packs are set up for 6v.

Jay-gon Jinn
01-22-2008, 11:22 AM
The only Hasbro boards you can't run on 6 volts were the older, light-bulb based sabers that used two C batteries.. If you have a Hasbro board from a newer saber with the led ring for lighting, that used three AA batteries, you can go up to 6 volts.

strengthofrage
01-22-2008, 11:44 AM
Yep, Jay-Gon is right. The LED ring Hasbros like the ones mentioned in this thread run fine with a 6v pack. I have no experience with the older ones without the LED ring.

Dark Navel
01-22-2008, 03:28 PM
Thanks for getting back to me Fender..I appreciate it because it now gives me a better direction to go in.

Also, thanks to Darth Fender and Jay-gon for shedding more light on the battery issue with the newer Hasbro boards that use LED technology.

So just to triple make sure:

I can hook up Corbin's board the the Hasbro LED Vader board with a 3W red LED, run two switches (one for power and the other for the flash on clash effect) on a 4 volt battery pack. I want to run two switches so I can control the FOC feature at will.

Even if I don't use Corbin's board I can still power the saber with 4 volts without frying it. This is great news because 2 AA batteries side by side just fit into a 1.25" sink tube. All I have to do now is make a 4v rechargable battery pack and make sure I don't stack the batteries.

I will try and get a couple of diagrams together to others out.
This is very helpful and I again appreciate it!:mrgreen:

Lord Maul
01-22-2008, 03:35 PM
The only Hasbro boards you can't run on 6 volts were the older, light-bulb based sabers that used two C batteries.. If you have a Hasbro board from a newer saber with the led ring for lighting, that used three AA batteries, you can go up to 6 volts.

I didn't know that. Thanks for the info Jay :)

That sounds good to me DN ;)

Jay-gon Jinn
01-23-2008, 01:22 AM
Oh, no problem, Maul, but don't thank me really, I remember reading that in one of X-wing's posts from a while back.

Dark Navel
01-24-2008, 12:47 AM
Ok it's late and I'm felling dumb here, but is there a diagram showing where to hook up the 2nd switch (the FOC switch)..

I guess it usually hooks up on Corbins board near the top but this is where I have to attach the clash sensor per Fender:confused:

I was going to work on a diagram but I guess I better go to bed..:am

uggghhh

Dark Navel
01-24-2008, 12:48 AM
that's 2:47am..Geez I guess I am tired

Hasid Lafre
01-24-2008, 01:51 AM
I would just like to mention that if you wire in a lock up button do the corbin board with a clash sensor your not gonna get a lock up clash sounding effect like on the crystal focus unless you wired the lock up button to the mr clash sensor also and corbin dosent recamend that. Then teh chances of getting a constent clash/lockup effect when holding the button chances are it wont work.

Dark Navel
01-24-2008, 06:01 AM
Hasid,

Fender made the point that I would get the clash, clash, clash sound. I understand that it won't sound like a really good blade lock up.

Phiily Manyaan
01-24-2008, 09:31 AM
Is it possible to just add the driver and hasbro boards into the electronics starter kits in the TCSS store? I know I'd have to get the proper switch for clash effects and a speaker also. Thanks.

Dark Navel
01-24-2008, 04:04 PM
Well guys here's a diagram I whipped up...The only I'm having is where to place the 2nd momentary switch. Can someone take a look and either give me the proper placement?? I am going to remove the FOC sensor from the Hasbro board and wire it to Corbin's board as Darth Fender staed he did.

I did uses a DPDT momentary slide switch because that will work nicely with the Dooku switch for the hilt I'm making. I'll probably hide the mini tactile FOC switch near the bottom of the handle just about flush with the grip so it will be easily assessible while still remaining pretty much hidden.



DV

strengthofrage
01-24-2008, 07:12 PM
The second momentary switch gets wired in parallel on Corbin's board where you connected the Hasbro clash sensor switch I believe.

Also, you mentioned a DPDT momentary slide switch... the one in your picture doesn't look like it is momentary... I could definitely be wrong though.

Dark Navel
01-24-2008, 07:31 PM
If it has 6 connectors it's a DPDT momentary...These look very close to the other but they only have 3 connectors on the bottom of the switch.

Dark Navel
01-24-2008, 07:33 PM
:confused:Ok for the secons switch, the mini tactile that can be soldered to the wires going to the clash sensor?

DarthFender
01-24-2008, 09:48 PM
Yes. But keep in mind that the clash sensor is only gonna work about 1/4 of the time. I think it has to do with the delay for the Corbin driver board. It doesn't do the clash effect immediately. There is a delay of a few milliseconds, and the sensor will have to maintain contact for that whole time.
That's my theory, Corbin could probably shed more light on that.

Hasid Lafre
01-24-2008, 10:00 PM
Ok

A dpdt switch dosent have to have 6 pins, Ive seen a couple with 4 pins. I would suggest using a latching switch. I had a diagram to make corbins momentary board latching but I cant find it now.

So just get used to holding the power button all the time.

The corbin board will clash flash with the other boards clash sound but sometimes it dosent alwase work sometimes it will not flash with the clash sometimes it will. It has to do with placment of the sensors in the hilt.

Corbin strongly recamended me to not put in a c&L button with the sensor and a sound board. something about mixed voltage signals and essentally somethings gonna fry down the road.

I say again even if it works and stays alive your not gonna get a clash sound when holding the C&L button unless you wire the soundboards clash sensor in with the switch and again thats mixed voltage signals.

All your gonna get with a C&L button on the corbin board is the lock up effect, your not gonna get a clash sound when pressing the button.

With the diagram thats up there you will get a clash sound and a flash when the blade hits something but if you hold the lockup button all its gonna do is flash the blade.

So looking at it, wiring in a C&L button is gonna be pointless.

Dark Navel
01-24-2008, 10:47 PM
Hasid,

I have read through the forums and alot of people state use a momentary due to the Hasro board being a "momentary board". That's why when i order his board it is going to be a momentary board, not a latching.


oh boy I have so many people telling me so many things I think my heas going to blow up:)

If someone could modify my diagram and repost it with how I should do this that would be great. I am good at seeing how things will work better than I am when I keep getting all types of answers.

I don't mean to sound like I jerk here but I feel like I keep getting conflicting answers.:(

Dark Navel
01-24-2008, 11:16 PM
"All your gonna get with a C&L button on the corbin board is the lock up effect, your not gonna get a clash sound when pressing the button.

With the diagram thats up there you will get a clash sound and a flash when the blade hits something but if you hold the lockup button all its gonna do is flash the blade." -originally from Hasid

Hasid,
The flash that I do get will not be a blinking flash, the one that everyone hates: the Hasbro blinking flash, correct? (Shouldn't it be more of a shimmering)

I also undersatnd that I am relying on a cheap $20.00 board and it doesn't compare to an MR, Ultra or Erv's CF board and I can live with that.

(Can't find an MR board, the Ultra's (yeah right) and Erv is now working on his new CF board not to mention I can't afford it right now. With the amount of $$ that i have already put into this project my wife is ready to force choke me + I'm out of work due to an injury that someone else caused...I can't get mad at myself for this one and Wormen's Comp in MA pays squat, not to mention it's been 3 weeks and I still haven't received a check:mad:)

The reason why I want to use Corbin's board is to not only get rid of hasbro's gofoy blinking lights upon contact with soemthing but I also want the saber blade to power up and power down in synch with the somewhat sound effect on the Hasbrp board for the power up/power down.

Hasid Lafre
01-25-2008, 12:22 AM
I said thers a way to make it a latching board so it whould make the hasbro latch also But sence I cant rember how to do it just disregard that part.

I have a corbin board with an mr vader card, I have asked corbin alot of question about what I can and can not do with the board and a sound card.

Your diagram will work fine just forget about the second button. all it will do is cause a voltage signal to interupt with the sound board, Sound boards dont like mixed voltage signals.

You need a clash sensor for corbins board, Using one sensor for 2 boards will cause mixed voltage signals to the sound board.

Your gonna get a flash on clash no matter what you do. The corbin board will give a flash on clash the hasbro board gives a flash on clash. Shimmer or flash its the same thing.

The only way to not get a flash on clash with a hasbro board is if the led is driven by something like a resistor or a puck and the sound board is on a different circut. Weather you wire the led to the driver or the hasbro card its gonna flash on clash.

Dark Navel
01-25-2008, 09:43 PM
Well, after getting input for all of you I have also been speaking with the man himself, Corbin Das.

We have come up with a final drawing and I have already modified it to what he has been stating in our communications. I kept the clash sensor on the board and will wire the 2nd switch (momentary push type) to the wires running from the clash sensor on the hasbro baord to the connection points on his board.

Corbins board will be a momentary board. I have a DPDT momentary switch that has 6 connections for power on'off and and then the SPST momentary switch for the FOC/shimmer switch.

Nothing has been said about mixed voltages with the setup that I have here. (I think that may have played a part when using an MR board).

I hope some will find this usefull.

DN

Hasid Lafre
01-26-2008, 10:20 AM
Well sir I admit I may be wrong when it comes to the hasbro board but just watch out if you smell something thats like a burnt clutch in a car dont turn it on.

Dark Navel
01-26-2008, 05:45 PM
OK Hasid...I'll make sure I do that then and I'll make sure "I look busy".

I was trying to get input from all people and you are so adiment that I am going to fry my board, if I do that then oh well...

You seem as though your a bit high up on your horse...chilllax. If I fry the board them I'm out the money. I appreciate your input and you may indeed be right and if you are then it will be my fault. Since Corbin has approved it then I am going with what he has to say. I am in no way saying that you are wrong and don't know because you do have a grasp on what I am trying to do.

In this case I have to go with Corbin since he's the one who desigend the board that I am attaching the Hasbro board to.

By the way,

You may find your picture attched to your name funny or amusing but I think it's a shame you have to stoop to that level. I am not a bible toting, preachaholic but come on...I'm sure you can find something a bit better, classier, funnier.

Thank you for your replies to my questions but the other comments aren't needed.

DarthFender
01-27-2008, 07:27 AM
I don't mean to sound like I jerk here but I feel like I keep getting conflicting answers.:(

DN,

I dont think the answers you are getting are "conflicting", they are merely different ways so accomplish the same thing.

I was trying to explain the route I used that minimized my spending for parts. I will admin that my flash on clash solution is less than satisfactory, but I think it's better than hasbro's.

Dark Navel
01-27-2008, 08:25 AM
Fender,

Your input was great, thanks:D

I should have said confusing instead of conflicting. Everybodys input was very helpful and I gained a a lot of knowledge (enought to make me dangerous).

Is you FOC sensor soldered to your Habro board or did it come sepearte? I think the Hasbro board that has the FOC soldered to the board, like mine, is a bad design. I would really have to smack something pretty hard in order to set if off in its current placement. It lays on its side on the board so any vibration has to be strong enough to not only trigger the spring inside the sensor but it is also vibrating the heck out of the board itself.

I am still debating whether to de-solder it and place it closer to the base of the blade or to just keep it where it is and move the Hasbro baord close to the base of the blade. I guess once I get everything inside the 1.25" hilt I will see how much room I have and that will probably determine wheter I do it or not.

DarthFender
01-27-2008, 08:54 AM
I used the one on the Hasbro board and left it on there. There are a couple of contact points on the bottom of the sensor (the opposite end from the white cap) where you can solder your leads for the corbin board. Test the setup first, because one way you wire it will have the blade pulsing/flashing all the time. If that is the case just switch the two wires. should flash only when the clash goes off (some of the time).

As far as needing to hit something pretty hard. The more you use it the weaker the sping in the clash sensor will get (to a point) then it will clash better. But it will always work better in your saber then the Hasbro one it came out of. Especially with the Vader model. Its the same board but I practically had to crack the plastic toy case just to get the clash sound to work. But, after I put it in my custim hilt, it worked much better. And it got better with time.

Dark Navel
01-27-2008, 12:07 PM
Well thats good news about the spring loosening up..Thanks for th info about the coonection points as well.

I'm sure if I turned it on and it satrted to do that wacky flashing thing I might pound my head againt my workbench.

Thanks again for the help!

DN