Help with dual-blade saber

[BhujangiJedi]

I'd like to build a simple convertible dual-blade saber with no sound or light effects, like so:

http://members.cox.net/khalsa1/pics/saber.gif

I think I ought to be able to get by with these (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ViewWishlist.aspx?WishlistId=6) parts. Unfortunately, I have very few tools or experience. I can be careful and meticulous with my hands, been building computers for years, but I have no electrical or machining experience.

My priorities:

Functional - I want a well-weighted saber with an unobstructed, comfortable grip. The sword style I practice uses a full-time firm grip - the saber will never be twirling about within my hands/fingers. All twirling/rotation comes from the wrist.
Consistent blade illumination - both base-to-tip and core-to-perimeter.
Sturdy - it will be swung forcefully, but will probably only be subjected to moderate sparring/striking.

Some questions:

Is the colored disc + white LED approach worthwhile? It appeals to me, but blade illumination and color quality is most important.
Does the blade holder come with a retention screw for the blade? If not, which ones (from the store) are suitable?
Does the blade holder come with a hole for the retention screw?
How is the switch installed in the hilt? Any drilling needed?
From what I've read, it sounds like a buckpuck is overkill for my setup - is there any compelling reason to use a micropuck though?
Heatshrink tubing - what size? Adhesive or no?
Batteries - is there any reason to go with 4xAAA instead of 4xAA? How notable is the weight difference?
How deep does the blade rest in the hilt? I'd like a total pommel-to-bladetip length of 36" and want to know how long the blade should be.
What's needed to cut the blade... will Tim do it? ;)
What is the "TCSS style battle blade?" It's $30 - what does it have beyond a $12 thick blade + $4 diffuser + $3.50 tip & reflector?
And here's hoping... does anyone have any idea how the weight of this would compare to the MR Anakin? I have two of those and they're hell to dual-wield, and difficult even singly. They're heavy, poorly weighted, and difficult to grip.

I'd like to keep this upgradeable... future enhancements might include different LED colors, a longer 2-handed hilt, and a longer blade. Any other suggestions to that end?

[xwingband]

Holy crap duder... that's more than SOME questions.

1) Use a nice LED and a color that filters well and it's good. Like a high powered white and a YELLOW filter and it will be good (Yellows are typically as 80-90% transmittance).
2) No, any in the store will do.
3) No, it's easily done or you can pay Tim to do it.
4) Look at the pictures... the is a retention nut on it that screw it down from the outside.
5) No, Buck vs. Micropuck is amperage. Unless you want to use a I the micropuck is not for you.
6) Depends I use 1/8" non-adhesive. I solder well and I find the adhesive stuff not very flexible.
7) Not really. If you can afford it spacewise the runtimes are worth it over weight. Bigger is better in batteries.
8) 2"
9) A tube cutter is ideal. Tim cuts blades if you order a complete one. It's not hard though a hacksaw is fine for DIY if you keep it clean. If you get the glues DIY blades pay off rather quickly.
10) Nothing, just the benifit that it's done right.
11) MR's are all mostly heavier. I've only a few times come even close to the weight of one. Most I make are roughly half the weight and those I've gotten close had lots of batteries or heavy metals like brass.

Tack on) Use the MHS and quick connects and it will be fine.

[BhujangiJedi]

Thanks for the answers! It's overwhelming how much information is available in the forums... so many choices, so little time/money/tools!

I discovered TCSS just before it closed for the holidays and it's been agonizing having to wait for the new year for the store to open... but maybe it's for the best, as it gave me more time to go through the forums. I think I'm ready to go now, but I really want a few parts that are out of stock - Lux3 amber, black switch, and black boot.

[BhujangiJedi]

Now I'm getting confused about the voltage supplied by battery packs - and I just discovered NiMH are 1.2V as opposed to the usual 1.5V of alkaline AA. Does that mean I should consider a different resistor if I plan to primarily use NiMH instead of alkaline?

What is the voltage of the 4 AA battery packs sold here?
[+ == AA == -] [+ == AA == -]
[+ == AA == -] [+ == AA == -]

Would it be different if they were all in a line?
[+ == AA == -] [+ == AA == -] [+ == AA == -] [+ == AA == -]

And what is the voltage of a 3 AA battery pack?
[+ == AA == -] [+ == AA == -] [+ == AA == -]