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Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
12-05-2007, 12:10 AM
I have spent the last few days upgrading my first MHS saber. This is what it used to look like:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/mhssaber1j.jpg
Lux 3 royal blue, Hasbro sound.

First thing I did was take off the sink tube. I held on to it, thinking I may use it again somewhere. Then I went to work on the blade holder.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/mhs1m2_1.jpg

I found a lens assembly from an old 8mm movie camera and took it apart. The focus ring fit over the #3 blade holder like it was made for it. I was going to cover up the numbers, but I came to like them. Makes it look like they serve some purpose for adjusting the blade or something. The bigger ring was from the zoom assembly on the lens. I may or may not leave the tab sticking out of it.

I took out the Hasbro board. For now, it's just running on a resistor, but I plan on running the 3w driver in it. When I do, I'll want a little momentary switch for the clash/lock effect, so I made up a new switch plate. You can't see it well in the picture, but my activation switch is a little slide switch with the slider filed down so it's just about flush with the screw heads. The momentary switch is one of those little round push buttons. I got it from a dead VCR's control panel. Just for fun, I added a couple of greebly flashing LEDs.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/mhs1m2_2.jpg

Here it is assembled. I plan on replacing the screws with some of Tim's nice button head screws. I also want to change from the Lux 3 blue to a green K2.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/mhs1m2_3.jpg

Here's a close up of the switch plate with the LEDs lit.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/mhs1m2_4.jpg

I'm probably going to put a ribbed v-grooved section between the hilt and blade holder. Just waiting for it to come in. I can only hope that the switches will still line up with the thumbscrew.

I'm not sure what, if anything, I want to put on it for grip material. Until I decide, I'll leave it bare. I kind of like it that way anyway. Nice clean look.

Hasid Lafre
12-05-2007, 12:14 AM
I would take the tap off, then just get a m/m connector and a 2" extention. Spend a bit on some custom fees for some minor grooving. I love how it looks and I think a basick looking but not so basic looking extention would kick it off.

A ripped section between the BH and hilt would deffinatly thro off the alignment.

Looks great.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
12-05-2007, 12:19 AM
Thanks! Food for thought...

I also sanded the blade. Came out really nice. I have more to say about it, but it's past my bedtime.

Hasid Lafre
12-05-2007, 12:35 AM
Yeah blade sanding can reveal some positive results. just dont sand to where the blade goes in the holder.

Soulkeeper7700
12-05-2007, 01:19 AM
wow thats pretty cool, even though the original way it was looked good too.... what is the benefit of blade sanding, and whats the best method for doing this? i know its probably in the forum somewhere, but since you mentioned it here, i thought i would ask

Vazan Maceu
12-05-2007, 07:38 AM
i know its probably in the forum somewhere, but since you mentioned it here, i thought i would ask

IŽd try having a look at the LED Blade discussion (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=5) section if I were you :wink:

Ghostbat
12-05-2007, 10:14 AM
Nice, I like the look of this it has a very classic first movie prop look without being yet another flash tube saber (no offense to graflex aficionados, personal preference only :)

The lens-as-emitter is a great touch, I'll be looking at broken movie cameras in second hand shops in an entirely new way.

Hasid Lafre
12-05-2007, 12:45 PM
SAnding the blade gives the same effect of like frosting glass and light shines on it and lights up but dosent spill as much light thru the clear glass.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
12-05-2007, 10:12 PM
Soulkeeper,

Like Hasid said, it makes a frosted look on the outside of the blade. There's a thread about it in the LED blade discussion folder. I read about it and decided to give it a try.

It takes away from the blade looking like a clear tube with a lit up tube inside, and makes the whole blade look like a fuzzy, lit up tube. It kind of makes it look a little more like the "real thing". Combined with Corbin's film, and cellophane, it makes about the most evenly lit blade you're going to get. Of course, that's just my opinion.

I took pictures, and will tell about how I did it when I have more time. I'll probably put it in the LED blade section. Look for it there in the next few days.

Hasid Lafre
12-05-2007, 11:04 PM
IMO this is the most evenly lit blade.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Lightsaber%20Pics/SD530359.jpg

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
12-06-2007, 09:57 PM
I like that color. What have you done to the blade?

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
12-06-2007, 11:50 PM
Here are some pictures of my blade. I made an adapter to hold the blade and fit in my drill. Then I just ran the drill at about half speed while I held the sandpaper rolled around the blade. Not much to it. The biggest thing was to go slowly and make sure it was even.

(Edit to add) You should wear a dust mask and eye protection when you do this.

I tried different grits and settled on 320. It scuffed it nicely without gouging it. Your results may vary.

This picture shows a nice before and after. I just stopped half way and took a picture. The right half is sanded, the left is untouched.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/sand-blade2.jpg

Here's a close-up of the finished product.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/sand-blade4.jpg

Here it is, lit up. On the camera, it still shows a little brighter at the base, but I don't think it would be possible to get it any more evenly lit. To the naked eye, you can't see any difference.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/sand-blade3.jpg

Hasid Lafre
12-07-2007, 03:18 AM
Nice looking blade!

My blade there consists of a 33" total length thickwalled blade with very moderate sanding(had a nice dent in it when it met concreat steps). Its got the tcss diffuser with very very moderate vertical sanding(the blade has horizontal sanding), then I got about 3 foot of polyP inside.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
12-28-2007, 08:39 PM
I've almost finished upgrading my saber.

I made a little switch guard for the slider switch. It's now almost impossible to turn off by mistake. I made sure to file it nice and smooth. I don't want to cut my hand on the thing. I'll try it for a while and see how I like it. I may change it again.

I wrapped the hilt with some black leather. (I love the feel of a leather grip.) I also cut some thin strips of sticky-backed foam to fill in the grooves of the blade holder.

Finally, I covered the numbers on the lens ring/emitter with a strip of aluminum duct tape.

Just a couple more things to do. I have a green K2 on order for it, to replace the Royal Blue 3W, and I also ordered one of the new thin neck pieces. I can't wait to see how it looks on it.


http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/mhs1m3.jpg

B5813
12-30-2007, 09:41 PM
That definitely is a bada$$ looking blade... I love the way the camera captured the core near the emitter but still maintains a nice even blue the rest of the way. The hilt ended up pretty cool also. Pretty cool looking custom you ended up producing.

Malaki Skywalker
12-31-2007, 05:59 AM
Now that looks awesome! :D

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
12-31-2007, 06:55 PM
Thanks! I was really pleased with the way the blade sanding turned out, and I'm much happier with the design of the saber.

The K2 and thin neck should be here later this week. Just for comparison, I want to take some pictures with the 3W blue before I take it apart, then take pictures of the green K2 with the same settings on the camera. There should be quite a difference.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
01-03-2008, 11:00 PM
I got my shipment from Tim today,:D and spent the evening working on my saber. I put in the green K2 and the thin neck. I also tidied up my wiring and internal layout. Because the heat sink is now in the neck, I was able to push everything a little further forward, and I think that there is room for a 4AA holder in there now. (I'm currently running 4 AAAs.)

It will take a little time to get used to the green blade, but I think I'm going to like it. I took it outside, and it looks really cool in the dark. My neighbors must think I'm a lunatic by now.

I'm really impressed with the thin neck. It makes a nice comfortable place to hold on to. Before, when I was spinning the saber, I didn't have a place to hold it where it felt really comfortable. Now I do.

There are only two problems:

1) My thumbscrew is now on the bottom of the saber, instead of the top. Not a big deal. I can live with that.

2) My saber is now really blade heavy. It was always a little blade heavy, and I thought that the thin neck would make it better. It's actually a little worse now. My blade is only 32", (not counting the 2" in the holder,) and I don't really want to cut any more off. I may have to add more weight to the pommel end. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Anyway, on with the pictures. For some reason, my camera recorded the green as looking almost cyan. Weird. In person, it's quite green. I'll play with it more tomorrow and see if I can get a picture that's closer to reality.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/100_0335.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-1/1236148/100_0332.JPG

Hasid Lafre
01-04-2008, 06:16 AM
Longer blade + heavy washers in the pommel

strengthofrage
01-04-2008, 07:01 AM
That is quite an upgrade man, that thing is very sleek and looks comfortable. If you do swap out the 4AAA holder for the 4AA it may add some weight for you. I also like Hasid's idea with the washers, as long as they aren't clinking around on their own. Might get noisy lol.

Nice hilt Obi-Dar... I have begun sanding my blade after seeing your results.

Hasid Lafre
01-04-2008, 07:05 AM
Or you can find a 1" long piece of steel pipe that will fit in the hilt should add a few pounds to the bottem.

Me I just switched to thinwalled blades, and never really worried about ballance. I make my own ballance :P

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
01-04-2008, 10:59 AM
If you do swap out the 4AAA holder for the 4AA it may add some weight for you. I also like Hasid's idea with the washers, as long as they aren't clinking around on their own. Might get noisy lol.

I was thinking that the bigger batteries would add a little weight. I like Hasid's idea with the pipe. (Thanks.) I have some 1" steel pipe I might try it with. I'll wrap it with some masking tape so it doesn't rattle around.


I have begun sanding my blade after seeing your results.

I really like the effect. Just take your time and try to get the scuffing as even and smooth as you can. Be sure to post pictures, and don't forget the goggles and dust mask. The dust is finer than drywall dust, and you really don't want to be sucking this stuff in.

strengthofrage
01-04-2008, 11:19 AM
I think I need to use a heavier grit. I started with 600 and the results arent that great. It doesnt do much. I may try 400 next and see how that is.

Thanks, I will remember the mask & goggles. I forget the simple safety measures sometimes due to excitement. Bad idea, especially when soldering.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
01-04-2008, 03:03 PM
I used 320 and found that it had the best results. 400 might be about the same. Better to start fine and get coarser as needed than to go too coarse and gouge the blade.

xwingband
01-04-2008, 04:08 PM
I don't bother sanding... just use krylon matte spray. Unless you want the lines, but Corbin's film does that rather well.

strengthofrage
01-04-2008, 07:17 PM
I just finished sanding it with 320 grit, came out better than the 600. I posted pics in the gallery as this completes my first MHS saber.

Xwing... how well does the matte coat hold up? That sounds loads easier/faster than sanding. Also, has anyone sand blasted the outside on the blade at all?

Novastar
01-04-2008, 07:45 PM
I will say this... with enough usage of the blades... it sure will LOOK like you've sanded them!!! :)

After two of main actors have practiced this 250+ move battle for BOP III... over and over and over again... the blades no longer "show" the tube wall, and they appear entirely different than I expected they would! The gift wrap film blades I made for them no longer appear "metallic" due to the "haziness" of the tubes...

...but they sure are EVENLY lit! ;)

So, I guess my thoughts are: use your blade. A lot. You'll get the "sanded" effect. :)

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
01-04-2008, 08:43 PM
<font=pout>Unfortunately, I don't have anyone to duel with, so I have to weather my saber by artificial means.</font>

I'm trying to interest some of my friends in building sabers, but they all say that they can't spend the money.