Kamurah's Quest for Non-Sucky Switches

[Kamurah]

Ok...so here is part ONE of a thread I am starting about my desire to have better switches in our sabers.

I just do not believe that many of the activation switches we have options for look 'canon' to me. So one of the things I am always on the lookout for is a new or unique way to implement a switch in a saber.

Well...I was recently at my local Radio Shack, and stumbled upon some interesting pieces that I think will end up making a good looking switch.

What I found was a) a micro toggle switch (ok not uncommon, but wait it gets better),

and also b) a larger size LED bezel to house it.

I took them home, cut off some of the bottom of the LED bezel, and I think with a little JB weld applied, I will have a nice latching switch that looks a bit better than just using a toggle on it's own.

Total cost: about 3 bucks. Not bad.

So...below are the pics....but would love to hear some of your options for non-sucky switches for our sabers.

Enjoy :D


First, the LED bezel as purchased:

http://homepage.mac.com/richlisagreen/.Pictures/Bezel1.jpg

Next, the LED bezel after the Dremmel:

http://homepage.mac.com/richlisagreen/.Pictures/Bezel%202.jpg

And the Toggle (as purchased):

http://homepage.mac.com/richlisagreen/.Pictures/Toggle1.jpg

And finally...a few of the assembled switch with Toggle and Bezel:

http://homepage.mac.com/richlisagreen/.Pictures/Switch1.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/richlisagreen/.Pictures/Switch2.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/richlisagreen/.Pictures/Switch3.jpg

[Lord Maul]

That looks pretty cool. For hidden switches, I use the tactile ones. Also, Corbin hooked me up for the smallest latching switch I've ever seen, 1/4 inch square. Linky for the website that sells them in a bit (need to find it :lol: )

[pipster79]

I would like to know that website maul. I have been looking for a mini latching switch for ages.

[Lord Maul]

http://www.apem.com/pdf/MHPS_TACTS.pdf

There ya go. The switch I have is the first one listed.

[Vazan Maceu]

Hmm... Maul, those switches you´ve posted look exactly as the ones used for the buttons on computer cases (although maybe they´re not the same type). I have a handful of those in my "spares" box, and will probably try them, but... How do I test if they´re latching? It´d be great if I could put those switches to good use :wink:

[acerocket]

Tiny, yes. Latching, yes. Pain the a$$, yes yes yes.

http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/CB3.pdf
6.2mm x 6.2mm x 3.1mm (these are what is in the KP saber)

http://www.bourns.com/pdfs/7914.pdf part 7914G-1-000E
5mm x 5mm x 4mm

http://www.apem.fr/pdf/uk/section_c/01-Serie%20PHAP33-A.pdf part PHAP3390
4.2mm x 4.2mm x 1.5mm
These are the absolute smallest switches I have ever tried to use.

There are probably others out there. Google for tactile switch or tact switch. You will find tons of switches.

[xwingband]

Yeah, tactiles and push buttons like the APEM one above are nice action... terribly hard to mount though.

For plain old push buttons I like this alco switch... metal housing. Is small diameter but not horribly deep. Comes in all the momentary versions too.

http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MPA103D04virtualkey50660000vi rtualkey506-MPA103D04

[Lord Maul]

Hmm... Maul, those switches you´ve posted look exactly as the ones used for the buttons on computer cases (although maybe they´re not the same type).

They are board mount switches, so probably there are some on computers.

As for mounting, I used friction. I filed out a hole that was a tiny bit too small for the switch, and crammed the switch into it. Bingo, solid mount for the switch. Filing the hole took me 2 hours though :shock:

[Stinky Bantha]

I've been on the hunt for some non-sucky switches for a while, and since I haven't come up with any good mounting solutions for tactile switches (for my saber at least) I decided to modify some of the less obtrusive radioshack switches.

This is the stock switch I used:

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9994/stockqy9.jpg

I took an old thumbscrew I had, cut off the threads, drilled a hole wide enough to fit the modified switch (I cut off the mushroom part) and stuck it right on top. Since the screw is too wide for the hole the switch takes I couldn't just glue it on, so I drilled a tiny hole through the side of the screw and the switch post on the inside, then I just stuck one of those rubber-wrapped paperclips through the hole, bent it at the ends, and viola! Instant non-sucky switch!.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8784/thumbscrewswitchjk7.jpg

[Lord Maul]

BE WARNED: That switch is horrible, it has been know to switch from N/O to N/C on a whim. That switch wiped a Crystal Focus card blank :shock:

[Stinky Bantha]

BE WARNED: That switch is horrible, it has been know to switch from N/O to N/C on a whim. That switch wiped a Crystal Focus card blank :shock:

Gah! That's pretty lame. Are these switches any good?

http://tinyurl.com/2b9dcm

I've already got one set, but I'm gonna get another one so I'll have 2 blacks, if they're alright.

[Lord Maul]

Anything radio shack sells as far as switches and speakers is CRAP.

[xwingband]

BE WARNED: That switch is horrible, it has been know to switch from N/O to N/C on a whim. That switch wiped a Crystal Focus card blank :shock:

That's why I posted the switch I did. :wink: It's the same hole size only slightly deeper, but is a full metal housing vs the plastic back. Also comes in N.O., N.C., and On/Off for your choice. :D

[Hasid Lafre]

The switch on my saber is from RS. Not all switches from RS suck.

[Novastar]

Balance of Power performances have required switches to be both durable AND "out-of-the-way".

This posed design problems, but... after some thought, myself and the team (including Corbin & Strydur at the time of BOP I) came to the following conclusions:

1. Latching switches are preferable... for numerous setups, including "resistor-only" or "direct-drive" sabers... obviously MR boards... and battery packs with springs. I personally feel they are better--especially for Corbin's board.

2. The smaller the profile the better, as they leave more room both inside and outside the saber.

3. A latching switch with pre-threaded holes & screws that I found on Radio Shack (but is fairly common to many electronics stores)... is pretty nice. It has a disadvantage... if it gets a severe "punch" on the slider head (aka press it really hard or bang it hard)... it can be destroyed.

You can't beat it for its profile and easy mounting though:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062491&cp=&sr=1&origkw=slide+switch&kw=slide+switch&parentPage=search

The link is just an example. As far as I know, it doesn't cost so bloody much. They come in 2-packs for a few bucks, I believe!

4. Latching switches can easily be "reversed" regarding the whole normally open/closed & polarity issue. In other words, it makes it a non-issue.

5. If you go with a momentary pushbutton, mounting it into the pommel is pretty nice, especially if you "cap it off" with some kind of rubber cap... such as (for example) a rubber plunger/cap for a walking cane. If that is the best way to say it.

That's all I can say without going into more detail, especially about the latching switches. You have to work to recess them, but once you do... it becomes near impossible to accidentally switch them on or off.

If you're looking for awesome momentaries--there are definitely tons out there. I like the ones Ace mentioned and have a bunch of them... but they're tough to mount!

[Ghostbat]

The problem with Radio Shack components is that they are made as cheaply as possible then sold at premium prices. This does not lend itself to awesome quality control.

I myself have had good luck with their toggles, but pushbutton switches are a different story. As Maul mentioned I have had them switch from NC to NO, I have had latching switches switch to momentary, I have had the entire button and spring spontaneously eject from the casing!

On the other hand I have a couple projects with pushbuttons from them that have been fine for years. It's a crap shoot.

For anything that matters I will seek out better parts, but if I need something right now and don't mind paying a little more for something not as good I will still hit up a radio shack on my way home.

'Mouser' and 'All Electronics' have been very good to me.

[Vazan Maceu]

Scavenging around I found this:

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/4011/switchog8.jpg

It´s a little slider switch (4mm wide, 19mm long, 11mm high), I´ve tested it with a resistored setup and seems to work well. And it has a nice switch cover too :lol:

It was on an old broken joystick, just waiting to be salvaged... Now I´ve got to find a proper use for it :wink:

[Angelus Lupus]

Now that looks nice. I've never liked the look of those slider switches, but a cover like that makes all the difference.

[Luke-SkyMarcher]

This is something I did with a rotary switch and a 10-32 knurled nut. (plus some epoxy and model paint)
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u228/Luke_SkyMarcher/Copyofsaber016.jpg
I like the rotary switch because there is absolutely no way you can accidentally turn it off in a duel, unlike pushbutton switches.

[Stinky Bantha]

Awesome, Luke, looks great. I was actually playing around with the idea, but I didn't know how it would work out. I'll definitely try it now, though. What kind of rotary switch did you use?

[Luke-SkyMarcher]

I used this one:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/RS-142/700425/2-POSITION_ROTARY_SWITCH,_DPDT_.html
though I had to trim the black housing a bit to get it to fit: it's rather large. The post is the same diameter as tcss switches though, so it will fit in the same hole.